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The Official Cooling Thread!
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AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
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9. February 2009 @ 15:24 |
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Originally posted by theonejrs:
Originally posted by ZippyDSM:
Originally posted by sammorris:
You won't feel a great deal of air coming from any front fan, so I wouldn't concern yourself too much with that. You'll be amazed, there can be almost no airflow and HDDs will run fine. Actually no airflow, and they get hot as hell.
On my aero cool case the front fan drops HDD temps as much as 5 digress.
Big fans are nice :P
ZippyDSM,
I took the rear 120 and moved it to the front as an intake, added a Silverstone 53CFM 1200 RPM fan to the rear and my DeathStar dropped in temps, 13-14C! What now Idles at 33-34, used to run in my old case at 47-48C! I very much like the sideways drive bays with the large holes for airflow. Far superior to conventional front to back mounting for getting air flow through the hard drives and cooling them. you can fee a good supply of air coming through the hard drives with your hand. Cooler master even uses tool less rails that just pop in and the drive slides in the bracket and locks. Takes a whole ten seconds to do! Once you've installed the CPU, CPU Cooler and installed the MB in the case, you won't need anymore tools! I very much like my new case!
Russ
I prefer the old 6+ drive bay myself it lets me place 2-4 faned drives in it much easier than a 4+ side ways drive bay, tools designs are fickle, my last Case was a http://www.hardcoreware.net/reviews/review-190-1.htm, the tooless design was so so worse yet air flow was bad, even with 2 80MM fans cut into the bottom as intakes.
my new case
http://www.aerocool.us/case/AE-Plus/ae-plus.htm
I simply love it the side fan keeps my video card nice and cool, lets more air in for the CPU area so my old style zalman monster copper CPU cooler can be more effective.(new Mobo is MSI 750I platinum, the heat pipes do not get in the way of my monster CPU cooler almost thought I was going to have to buy a new one.)
The front fan adds more cool air and puts it over the HDDs I can only fit 2 faned drives in it sadly but with the fanless one in the middle I don't get above 46.
I fcking love the tool less dvd/CD/floppy drive clips/holders you pop them on twist them to hold twist them again to take off and remove the drive, this is what I'd call a universal toolless system even works on HDDs unlike most tooless cases I have see.
The only problem I have ran into is that the HDD bay is move alil bit further away from the front meaning its a VERY tight fit with angled sata ports on the mobo, another slight annoyance is the front panel USB/audio could be 15-25% longer..
Copyright infringement is nothing more than civil disobedience to a bad set of laws. Lets renegotiate them.
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9. February 2009 @ 16:31 |
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Originally posted by ZippyDSM:
Originally posted by theonejrs:
Originally posted by ZippyDSM:
Originally posted by sammorris:
You won't feel a great deal of air coming from any front fan, so I wouldn't concern yourself too much with that. You'll be amazed, there can be almost no airflow and HDDs will run fine. Actually no airflow, and they get hot as hell.
On my aero cool case the front fan drops HDD temps as much as 5 digress.
Big fans are nice :P
ZippyDSM,
I took the rear 120 and moved it to the front as an intake, added a Silverstone 53CFM 1200 RPM fan to the rear and my DeathStar dropped in temps, 13-14C! What now Idles at 33-34, used to run in my old case at 47-48C! I very much like the sideways drive bays with the large holes for airflow. Far superior to conventional front to back mounting for getting air flow through the hard drives and cooling them. you can fee a good supply of air coming through the hard drives with your hand. Cooler master even uses tool less rails that just pop in and the drive slides in the bracket and locks. Takes a whole ten seconds to do! Once you've installed the CPU, CPU Cooler and installed the MB in the case, you won't need anymore tools! I very much like my new case!
Russ
I prefer the old 6+ drive bay myself it lets me place 2-4 faned drives in it much easier than a 4+ side ways drive bay, tools designs are fickle, my last Case was a http://www.hardcoreware.net/reviews/review-190-1.htm, the tooless design was so so worse yet air flow was bad, even with 2 80MM fans cut into the bottom as intakes.
my new case
http://www.aerocool.us/case/AE-Plus/ae-plus.htm
I simply love it the side fan keeps my video card nice and cool, lets more air in for the CPU area so my old style zalman monster copper CPU cooler can be more effective.(new Mobo is MSI 750I platinum, the heat pipes do not get in the way of my monster CPU cooler almost thought I was going to have to buy a new one.)
The front fan adds more cool air and puts it over the HDDs I can only fit 2 faned drives in it sadly but with the fanless one in the middle I don't get above 46.
I fcking love the tool less dvd/CD/floppy drive clips/holders you pop them on twist them to hold twist them again to take off and remove the drive, this is what I'd call a universal toolless system even works on HDDs unlike most tooless cases I have see.
The only problem I have ran into is that the HDD bay is move alil bit further away from the front meaning its a VERY tight fit with angled sata ports on the mobo, another slight annoyance is the front panel USB/audio could be 15-25% longer..
ZippyDSM,
I've yet to see a case of that design that cools very well! Here's my temps, once I figured out which is which. All the temps are there with an AMD MB, they just don't read in the right place! LOL
From L to R the 1.5 is the CPU fan speed, take note of the two black ones next, as they are my HDDs. In my old CM Cavalier case they were 46-48C! The purple is the system temp, The dark Red/Purple is the video/Northbridge, and the green is the CPU temp. No Rocket Science to it, I just used Easy Tune to see which temps were what! Needless to say I'm very happy with my temps!
Best Regards,
Russ
GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor
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4 product reviews
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9. February 2009 @ 16:42 |
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Originally posted by theonejrs:
Originally posted by ZippyDSM:
Originally posted by theonejrs:
Originally posted by ZippyDSM:
Originally posted by sammorris:
You won't feel a great deal of air coming from any front fan, so I wouldn't concern yourself too much with that. You'll be amazed, there can be almost no airflow and HDDs will run fine. Actually no airflow, and they get hot as hell.
On my aero cool case the front fan drops HDD temps as much as 5 digress.
Big fans are nice :P
ZippyDSM,
I took the rear 120 and moved it to the front as an intake, added a Silverstone 53CFM 1200 RPM fan to the rear and my DeathStar dropped in temps, 13-14C! What now Idles at 33-34, used to run in my old case at 47-48C! I very much like the sideways drive bays with the large holes for airflow. Far superior to conventional front to back mounting for getting air flow through the hard drives and cooling them. you can fee a good supply of air coming through the hard drives with your hand. Cooler master even uses tool less rails that just pop in and the drive slides in the bracket and locks. Takes a whole ten seconds to do! Once you've installed the CPU, CPU Cooler and installed the MB in the case, you won't need anymore tools! I very much like my new case!
Russ
I prefer the old 6+ drive bay myself it lets me place 2-4 faned drives in it much easier than a 4+ side ways drive bay, tools designs are fickle, my last Case was a http://www.hardcoreware.net/reviews/review-190-1.htm, the tooless design was so so worse yet air flow was bad, even with 2 80MM fans cut into the bottom as intakes.
my new case
http://www.aerocool.us/case/AE-Plus/ae-plus.htm
I simply love it the side fan keeps my video card nice and cool, lets more air in for the CPU area so my old style zalman monster copper CPU cooler can be more effective.(new Mobo is MSI 750I platinum, the heat pipes do not get in the way of my monster CPU cooler almost thought I was going to have to buy a new one.)
The front fan adds more cool air and puts it over the HDDs I can only fit 2 faned drives in it sadly but with the fanless one in the middle I don't get above 46.
I fcking love the tool less dvd/CD/floppy drive clips/holders you pop them on twist them to hold twist them again to take off and remove the drive, this is what I'd call a universal toolless system even works on HDDs unlike most tooless cases I have see.
The only problem I have ran into is that the HDD bay is move alil bit further away from the front meaning its a VERY tight fit with angled sata ports on the mobo, another slight annoyance is the front panel USB/audio could be 15-25% longer..
ZippyDSM,
I've yet to see a case of that design that cools very well! Here's my temps, once I figured out which is which. All the temps are there with an AMD MB, they just don't read in the right place! LOL
From L to R the 1.5 is the CPU fan speed, take note of the two black ones next, as they are my HDDs. In my old CM Cavalier case they were 46-48C! The purple is the system temp, The dark Red/Purple is the video/Northbridge, and the green is the CPU temp. No Rocket Science to it, I just used Easy Tune to see which temps were what! Needless to say I'm very happy with my temps!
Best Regards,
Russ
The aero cool or the case edge one?
I have a 120 as exhaust with the 120 on the PSU, I have been at least 10C cooler since I switched to the new case.
Copyright infringement is nothing more than civil disobedience to a bad set of laws. Lets renegotiate them.
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9. February 2009 @ 17:09 |
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ZippyDSM,
Quote:
The aero cool or the case edge one?
The link for the Case Edge one doesn't work, I was talking about the Aerocool. I should have been more specific in my answer though. I meant that I haven't seen a case of this design cool everything in it well! Usually with this type of case the CPU and the Video cool very well! Ironically the hard drives seem to suffer the most! I had to play with the fans a little bit and add an 80mm Silverstone to the CPU Air Duct Port as an exhaust. All my fans are 1200 RPM fans and that's what I set the Silverstone at! Seems to work very well. The lower side fan appears to do nothing, either as an exhaust or intake. I guess if I had a video card in it, it would help cool it though!
Russ
GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor
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4 product reviews
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9. February 2009 @ 17:13 |
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Originally posted by theonejrs:
ZippyDSM,
Quote:
The aero cool or the case edge one?
The link for the Case Edge one doesn't work, I was talking about the Aerocool. I should have been more specific in my answer though. I meant that I haven't seen a case of this design cool everything in it well! Usually with this type of case the CPU and the Video cool very well! Ironically the hard drives seem to suffer the most! I had to play with the fans a little bit and add an 80mm Silverstone to the CPU Air Duct Port as an exhaust. All my fans are 1200 RPM fans and that's what I set the Silverstone at! Seems to work very well. The lower side fan appears to do nothing, either as an exhaust or intake. I guess if I had a video card in it, it would help cool it though!
Russ
comma at the end made it a bad link.
http://www.hardcoreware.net/reviews/review-190-1.htm
Lets just say my 8800 was running around 65 idle in that case.
Copyright infringement is nothing more than civil disobedience to a bad set of laws. Lets renegotiate them.
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13. March 2009 @ 09:23 |
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Forgive me if this has already been talked about, but I REALLY don't want to read through 50 pages of this thread to find out, and I already searched and nothing helpful came up.
I'm looking at the possibility of water cooling my new build, which will be a core i7 920 on a gigabyte x58 extreme, with (eventually) a gtx295 (but I don't know if I'll bother with the GPU, maybe just the CPU and NB) in a gigabyte 3d aurora case. I'm a complete noob when it comes to water cooling stuff, but I do know that custom systems are usually better than ready made ones like the thermaltake bigwater and the likes. So, I'm wondering first of all what are some good waterblocks/pumps/rads that aren't too expensive, and how EXACTLY I would go about installation because I don't really understand bleeding and I don't want anything to leak either. And, I suppose if anyone has used or knows anything about the Thermaltake bigwaters, an opinion would be good on those as well :)
I know it might be pretty expensive, so does anyone think I should just stick to a TRUE 120 like I have in my current build?
Cheers
Gigabyte 3d Aurora 570 | Coolermaster Real Power M1000 | Core i7 920 @ 4.0ghz w/ Coolermaster V10 | DFI LanParty DK-X58-T3EH6 | Evga GTX275 SLI @ FTW clocks | 3x2GB Patriot 1600mhz | Seagate 500GB x2, 1.5TB, FreeAgentPro 500GB | Dell 2408WFP | Windows 7 Professional x64
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13. March 2009 @ 09:44 |
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The GTX295 is a bit of a bum card really. The HD4870X2 is superior for 30" monitors, for lower resolutions, the HD4850X2 or a GTX280/HD4870 will do fine (Avoid the GTX285).
A good watercooling system would consist of a Thermochill rad, a D-tek DB-1 or Laing D5 pump and a Swiftech Apogee CPU block. The reservoir and tubes don't matter so much as long as they're decent quality and don't leak. Ultimately though, watercooling is a pain in the backside, and there's othing WC can do that air cooling can't, apart from the absurd overclocks (the kind of ones that see a system die in a few months from stupid voltages).
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13. March 2009 @ 19:16 |
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ok well all of that costs way more than a TRUE, so maybe I should just stick with air cooling? hate to ask, but what do you think of stuff like the thermaltake bigwater 760i or the prowater 850i?
Gigabyte 3d Aurora 570 | Coolermaster Real Power M1000 | Core i7 920 @ 4.0ghz w/ Coolermaster V10 | DFI LanParty DK-X58-T3EH6 | Evga GTX275 SLI @ FTW clocks | 3x2GB Patriot 1600mhz | Seagate 500GB x2, 1.5TB, FreeAgentPro 500GB | Dell 2408WFP | Windows 7 Professional x64
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13. March 2009 @ 19:27 |
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They're pretty bad tbh, you'll fare better with a TRUE in all respects.
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13. March 2009 @ 19:44 |
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no problems you've heard of when mounting on 1366?
Gigabyte 3d Aurora 570 | Coolermaster Real Power M1000 | Core i7 920 @ 4.0ghz w/ Coolermaster V10 | DFI LanParty DK-X58-T3EH6 | Evga GTX275 SLI @ FTW clocks | 3x2GB Patriot 1600mhz | Seagate 500GB x2, 1.5TB, FreeAgentPro 500GB | Dell 2408WFP | Windows 7 Professional x64
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13. March 2009 @ 19:45 |
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You need to either purchase the 1366 version, or buy the 1366 mounting bracket for the cooler as a separate addition (if you already have the cooler)
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13. March 2009 @ 20:07 |
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I've already got one yeah, but I'll get another one and the place I'm getting it from sells the new mounting kit with it for like 10 bucks :) So why are the bigwater kits so crap? Do they just not perform as well as high end air cooling? I've kinda always wanted that "wow" factor of having water cooling, know what I mean? And I looked for those parts you recommended - there are no stockers of thermochill rads in australia that I could find, swiftech apogee gtz water blocks are $115 plus $15 for lga1366 mounting kit, those laing pumps are $190, and a decent looking swiftech 2x120mm rad is $100. Plus tubing and fittings = chaching! :( Would I really need a 1500L/hr pump if I'm only looking to do cpu/nb or just cpu? Oh, and for comparison, a ttake 850i is $175. Stupid australia tax.
Here is most likely where I would get my stuff from.
Edit: What about the gigabyte 3d galaxy II?
Gigabyte 3d Aurora 570 | Coolermaster Real Power M1000 | Core i7 920 @ 4.0ghz w/ Coolermaster V10 | DFI LanParty DK-X58-T3EH6 | Evga GTX275 SLI @ FTW clocks | 3x2GB Patriot 1600mhz | Seagate 500GB x2, 1.5TB, FreeAgentPro 500GB | Dell 2408WFP | Windows 7 Professional x64
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 13. March 2009 @ 23:46
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14. March 2009 @ 05:40 |
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They perform as well as top end air cooling, but no better, are still expensive, and are poorly made. They fill with algae and clog up, ad the cheap barbs are also prne to leaks.
Don't get me wrong, a watercooled system is very impressive to look at, but seeing the case studies of the two people I know who have had watercooled systems, it's just too much pain, suffering and expense, when really, air cooling still does the job. It's a toy to experiment with, not a required upgrade for any overclocker short of the one that maxes a CPU out for two weeks before it goes pop then buys something else.
Gigabyte's offerings are better than Tt, but even so, it's home-made or not at all really.
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14. March 2009 @ 05:58 |
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Lol somehow I knew it would come down to that in the end.. ok well here's a list of what I would consider getting... its VERY expensive compared to a TRUE if I'm only going to be using it for the CPU.. let me know what you think.
Swiftech Apogee GTZ + 1366 bracket $131.50
Pump $69.00
Swiftech radiator $79.00
Swiftech reservoir $45.00
1/2" tubing $14.00 per metre
1/2" hose barbs for rad $8.00
Swiftech coolant $9.90
Anything I've missed? Do rads/reservoirs/waterblocks come with clamps or would I have to get some of those too?
The waterblock alone is more expensive than a TRUE, do you think it would be worth it for all that extra money and effort?
Gigabyte 3d Aurora 570 | Coolermaster Real Power M1000 | Core i7 920 @ 4.0ghz w/ Coolermaster V10 | DFI LanParty DK-X58-T3EH6 | Evga GTX275 SLI @ FTW clocks | 3x2GB Patriot 1600mhz | Seagate 500GB x2, 1.5TB, FreeAgentPro 500GB | Dell 2408WFP | Windows 7 Professional x64
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14. March 2009 @ 06:56 |
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rubixcube,
I don't know if you noticed the 4 holes in the radiator, but on many cases it can be mounted on the rear of the case. The screw holes go all the way through so you can mount it on the outside of the rear 120mm exhaust fan with the case as the meat in the sandwich! In my eyes, it makes for a very neat installation.
Best Regards,
Russ
GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor
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18. March 2009 @ 04:22 |
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Well, unfortunately I'm probably going to rule out water cooling, as it's a bit out of budget, but does anyone have an opinion on the coolermaster v10? I read a review where they used a core i7 920 oc'd to 3.6ghz and the v10 beat a TRUE by 8-10 celcius at load...
Gigabyte 3d Aurora 570 | Coolermaster Real Power M1000 | Core i7 920 @ 4.0ghz w/ Coolermaster V10 | DFI LanParty DK-X58-T3EH6 | Evga GTX275 SLI @ FTW clocks | 3x2GB Patriot 1600mhz | Seagate 500GB x2, 1.5TB, FreeAgentPro 500GB | Dell 2408WFP | Windows 7 Professional x64
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18. March 2009 @ 05:14 |
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I'm not convinced basically, I've not read anything to that degree anywhere else. Probably the TRUE was using a normal speed fan and the V10 was maxed out.
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18. March 2009 @ 05:29 |
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Here is the review I read. The fans on the v10 are pretty impressive, 90cfm @ 1900rpm and 19dba.
Gigabyte 3d Aurora 570 | Coolermaster Real Power M1000 | Core i7 920 @ 4.0ghz w/ Coolermaster V10 | DFI LanParty DK-X58-T3EH6 | Evga GTX275 SLI @ FTW clocks | 3x2GB Patriot 1600mhz | Seagate 500GB x2, 1.5TB, FreeAgentPro 500GB | Dell 2408WFP | Windows 7 Professional x64
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18. March 2009 @ 05:35 |
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Lmao, 19dB. A 1900rpm 120mm fan is 34-36dB at the very least. Coolermaster, like Thermaltake, lie severely about the noise levels of their fans. The Panaflo fan they used with the TRUE will be noticeably quieter than that, and you'll notice with the Core 2 CPU, the TRUE scores better. The uneven surface of the block is at fault, and this isn't really a problem for Core 2s, but with the i7s it does hurt performance. The coolers itself though perform similarly apart from this.
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18. March 2009 @ 06:28 |
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So, disregarding price, if I didnt want to lap my TRUE then I'd get a V10?
Gigabyte 3d Aurora 570 | Coolermaster Real Power M1000 | Core i7 920 @ 4.0ghz w/ Coolermaster V10 | DFI LanParty DK-X58-T3EH6 | Evga GTX275 SLI @ FTW clocks | 3x2GB Patriot 1600mhz | Seagate 500GB x2, 1.5TB, FreeAgentPro 500GB | Dell 2408WFP | Windows 7 Professional x64
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18. March 2009 @ 07:09 |
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If you had an i7. If you have a Core 2 you'd still be better off with a TRUE, irrespective of the price.
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18. March 2009 @ 18:24 |
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Originally posted by rubixcube:
Here is the review I read. The fans on the v10 are pretty impressive, 90cfm @ 1900rpm and 19dba.
rubixcube,
You can stick those specs in the file cabinet under BS, as I can assure you that a 90 CFM fan will make a lot more noise than 19Dba at 1900 RPM! They lie a lot about fan specs all the time. Silenx is famous for doing just that, with their 14dba fans. 90 CFM will be loud just because of the high airflow, especially in a CPU cooler as the air going between the cooler's fins will make a good bit of noise all by itself! Being able to cool 8-10C cooler with the V10 compared to the TRUE, just means that the case airflow works better with it than it does with a TRUE. There are also a number of coolers that beat out the TRUE in open air "breadboard" style testing. but don't work as well in the confines of a case. It's all about getting the airflow, in and out of the case efficiently through the CPU cooler! Sometimes just adding a new video card can be enough to disrupt the case airflow so it runs hotter. I just turned my side lower fan into an exhaust to help remove the hot air from the video card without affecting my other temps.
Here's a screen shot of my "right now" temps.
With the new video card, I have added a new 47C (Blue) source of heat that exhausts inside the case. Just turning the lower side fan around and making it an exhaust fan lowered the CPU (Green) by 4-5C and the NB (Red) by about 5C. Even the System (Purple), dropped a couple of degrees. Everything else is unchanged from before! Case ventilation is one of the real black arts, and almost never predictable ! LOL!!
Oh, here's a little something I think you will like. It's a desktop wallpaper. 1680x1050.
http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/7466/01301rubik1680x1050.jpg
If you need a different resolution, let me know and I'll post it. Thought of you right away, as soon as I saw it!
Best Regards,
Russ
GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor
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18. March 2009 @ 22:41 |
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Thanks for the wallpaper bud, looks fantastic! Think I'll keep that one on there for a while.
@ sammorris: yeah, the new build will have an i7 so I will probably go for the coolermaster, but that being said, it is kind of expensive, especially if i want to swap out the fans for blue ones :( I've always loved my TRUE on my current pc, but I think it might be time for me to move on from the fanboy stage... lol.
Gigabyte 3d Aurora 570 | Coolermaster Real Power M1000 | Core i7 920 @ 4.0ghz w/ Coolermaster V10 | DFI LanParty DK-X58-T3EH6 | Evga GTX275 SLI @ FTW clocks | 3x2GB Patriot 1600mhz | Seagate 500GB x2, 1.5TB, FreeAgentPro 500GB | Dell 2408WFP | Windows 7 Professional x64
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19. March 2009 @ 07:41 |
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That was one of the things I noticed. If your graphics card has an external exhaust cooler, turn the side fan to intake. If it exhausts into the case, turn it to exhaust.
Something interesting I have with everest now Russ is that as I leave it open its CPU usage keeps continuously rising until it eventually reaches 25%, or the max of one core. The longer it runs the worse games run as well, eventually becoming so laggy they're completely unplayable. MP3 playback also pops and stutters when it's running after a while. Annoying, as I can only 'snapshot' my temps, not monitor them. All I can assume is that the number of sensors involved in monitoring four GPUs overloads the program...
Just be advised, coolers like that are very dependant on CPU fan speed. Even a 300rpm drop could be enough to bring those temperatures closer together, and due to the layout, a 1600rpm fan on a TRUE will still be quieter.
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19. March 2009 @ 07:45 |
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I have a Zalman total copper heat sink the old huge kind, it keeps my CPU around 40, that's a 2.4 and a 2.8 C2D.
I was surprised it fit in my MSI PN7 platinum 0-o
Copyright infringement is nothing more than civil disobedience to a bad set of laws. Lets renegotiate them.
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