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PS3 Fan Fix V4.2
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AfterDawn Addict
1 product review
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27. October 2010 @ 09:49 |
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THIS THREAD IS KEPT OPEN FOR RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT ONLY. IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO BUILD YOUR OWN CONTROLLER, PLEASE SEE THIS PAGE: http://forums.afterdawn.com/t.cfm/f-153/guide_diy_ps3_fan_controller-888314/
If you would like to order a controller on a professionally made PCB, please private message me and I will give you my paypal address. I offer two versions, both plug-n-play with no soldering required...one is controlled by a smaller trimmer; you set the speed before closing up the system, tuck the controller away, and you cannot adjust again without reopening the system. This unit is $20 shipped to the USA by priority, or to most of the world by Air Mail. The other unit is also plug-n-play, but it requires you to drill a small hole in the case for mounting, and it also requires the use of Ultra Black RTV for installation (not included) (some have used super glue, but I prefer RTV). This allows for adjustment while the system is closed and running. This design is $25 shipped by the same methods as the other one. If you decide to order, please include your full shipping address exactly as it should be written on the package and specify the version you want and the quantity you want when you send the funds.
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[edit]
I have made some slight changes to the design to give a slightly wider range of speed control. The old design still works good; this design is just a bit easier to build and more forgiving of exact resistor values. Here are the changes:
R1 and R2 should both have the same values.
R1 should be 1/10 the resistance of the potentiometer you use.
The NE555 works fine, but I have switched to the TLC555 just because it is more stable and seems to give smoother PWM percentage curves. The pin connections remain the same.
I have also switched to a smaller voltage regulator. The original unit used a 1500ma regulator. Testing showed that it actually used less than 100ma when used with a 100K potentiometer, so more space can now be trimmed by eliminating that big TO-220 package.
These changes have only been tested on the fat design; I will test them on the slim in a few days once I have unpacked it again.
Also, the change in voltage regulator is only for higher resistance potentiometers; the lower the resistance, the more power the circuit will use.
[/edit]
Another new design...this one runs completely off of the fan line (no power supply splicing). Still don't have specific specs for the diode (pulled from an old power supply; not labeled). Tested working with the PS3 Slim. I've got some parts on order from digikey; once I test with those diodes, I will post a full list of digikey part numbers. The 12V and ground both come from the lines going to the fan; we splice into these lines but they stay connected between the mainboard and the fan. The fan signal wire goes strait to the fan; the fan signal wire coming from the mainboard is not connected to anything. I used a ceramic cap for space savings and ease of use, but any 0.1uF cap will work.
As for tuning, lowering the resistance of R2 will allow for higher maximum fan speed on fatline units (80K MINIMUM FOR SLIMLINES; THOSE FANS ARE SLIGHTLY LOWER VOLTAGE). Don't lower it too much; the maximum output should be no more than 3.2V.
There are two black lines crossing the chip in the image. These are setup as such:
The circuit board only has copper rings on one side, we will call this the bottom side. We place the board bottom-side down. Run a few strands of wire to connect the holes that pins 2 and 6 will go into. Next, place a small piece of electrical tape over the middle part of the wire. Now run a few strands from 4 to 8, making sure that the wire overlap has tape between. Now, place the socket into place and solder it...the two wires will be soldered in place at the same time. The diode and R3 are both mounted on the copper-ring or "back" side of the PCB...these are the last two parts to be soldered on.
[edit]
I just made a second one for my slimline...it is basically the same as the first, but made for a "10K" pot that is smaller than most 100K pots. I use the "" marks because I measured it to be an 8.77K pot.
Potentiometer Used: P3C3103-ND; this is a "10K" pot...but I measured it and found it to be an 8.77K pot. I ordered several of these pots...and they were all of different values, but this value seemed to be near the average.
Diode Used: 641-1410-1-nd
Voltage Regulator Used: MC7805CT-BPMS-ND
R1 = 2.7K
R2 = 7.7K
555 IC = 296-1411-5-ND
Socket Used: 3M5473-ND
It is important to note that potentiometers can be very far from their spec. Because of this, you should always check the output voltage before connecting it to the fan. The circuit as shown in the diagram as well as the circuit based on the 10K pot are both designed to create the maximum voltage for a slim PS3 when at max speed (3.1V; no more!). The "fat" consoles have a slightly higher maximum of 3.3V, but it should not matter much as even at 3.1v and with a 15-blade fan, the system sounds like a jet taking off. The "low speed" should be somewhere around .75V; but this can vary a bit; you just don't want it below 0.6V; as any lower speed could cause heat issues, even at minor tasks like web browsing or PSN downloads.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 24. March 2011 @ 07:11
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AfterDawn Addict
1 product review
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24. November 2010 @ 02:19 |
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[edit]
I don't really like this version, and I have made slight modifications to the other designs to make this one irrelevant. I don't recommend you build one, and you cannot buy one from me
[/edit]
Update: Here is a new 4.3 version. It is a little larger and more expensive, but it is intended to be more accurate. There are now two trimmers on-board...these allow for precise control of minimum and maximum speeds. This design is much larger, and probably will not fit inside of a slim console.
Here are the digikey part numbers:
NE555 IC - 296-1411-5-ND
IC Socket (optional but highly recommended) - 3M5473-ND
Diode - MUR105GOS-ND
Capacitor - 399-4264-ND
Voltage Regulator - MC7805CT-BPMS-ND
POT Plug (optional) - WM2745-ND (note: this is the same style 3-pin plug used on PC fans; some of you may already have these around)
POT Receptacle (optional) - WM2001-ND
POT Receptacle Pins (optional) - WM1114-ND (need at least three; order 10 because they are easily damaged during soldering, and 10 will be cheaper than 6.)
For 100K POT:
One 50K trimmer - 490-2927-ND
One 100K trimmer - 490-2971-ND
For 50K POT:
One 20K trimmer - 490-2919-ND
One 50K trimmer - 490-2927-ND
For 10K POT:
One 5K trimmer - 490-2926-ND
One 10K trimmer - 490-2913-ND
The larger of the two trimmers will be the one closer to the NE555 IC.
Before assembly, use a multimeter to get the trim pots near correct resistance (make sure to measure between the legs that will be connected). For a 100K POT design, you want about 27K on one and about 80K on the other. For a 50K POT design, you want about 15K on one and about 40K on the other. For a 10K POT design, you want about 3K on one and about 8K on the other. These don't have to be precise, but getting close now saves some time later.
Note that there are two pink circles; these are the two ends of a wire that must run across the board.
Once assembled, attach a multimeter to the fan output line. Carefully adjust the trimmers until the output range varies from 0.75V to 3.3V (3.1V if designing for a slim). Some might want a lower maximum speed or a higher minimum...just play with the trimmers and you can have any range you want.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 30. December 2010 @ 23:43
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GBX_Lee
Member
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25. November 2010 @ 00:34 |
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Thanks for this technical info .
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AfterDawn Addict
1 product review
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9. December 2010 @ 08:41 |
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Some people have asked for pics of this assembled, so here they are:
BTW...I have a new version of this that uses a real PCB...I am still waiting on batchPCB to ship, but I will post images as soon as I can.
[update]
Got my PCBs this weekend...I will try to test a pair of them sometime today. Here is one pair:
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 20. December 2010 @ 05:29
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RevKing
Newbie
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19. December 2010 @ 18:27 |
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My 40GB died on me a few weeks ago. After doing a re-flow on the board, before putting it back together i stuck in a sensor from a digital thermometer right next to the CPU to get accurate temperature readings. After about 30 minutes being turned on i was getting more than 50, nearly 60ºC. The fan didn't kick in or do anything. Just idling. Before my PS3 would over heat, i turned it off and thought about a water cooled set up, or, for the mean time, try and control the fan, which i have done and works really well. I have full, very smooth control of the fan.
I am using a phone battery charger giving out 5.1V (thats what it says on the charger but i think it's giving around 6V really) connected a 220ohm pot to it, that then is connected to the grey wire on the fan that i have spliced into. I grounded the charger to one of the screws that hold on the fan.
I can maintain my PS3 at around 40ºC with just a bit of fan noise. I have cut out a hole from the bottom side of my PS3 so the fan can get plenty of air as well.
i'll be giving it a good thrashing this week (gt5) and i'll see how it holds up
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 20. December 2010 @ 18:46
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AfterDawn Addict
1 product review
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21. December 2010 @ 05:53 |
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Big update...it now has a real PCB! Electrically identical to version 4.21; but built on a real PCB. Thus, I am calling it 'PS3 Fan Fix 5.0'. My new PCB design seems to be working great. I will be offering both the completed units and the bare PCBs for sale in the near future. Here are some pix:
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AfterDawn Addict
1 product review
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28. December 2010 @ 03:52 |
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I have been getting a lot of questions about availability, so here is a rundown:
The design shown above is currently available. There are three basic options.
1.) Buy a PCB from me and build it yourself with your own components...$5 plus shipping (via PayPal)
2.) Buy a PCB from batchPCB and build it yourself with your own components...$5 per pair +10 handling per order +shipping. (this option is a better deal if you need more than 4)
3.) Buy it fully assembled and tested from me...$20 plus shipping (via PayPal)
Here is the link to order from batchPCB: http://www.batchpcb.com/product_info.php?products_id=47799&check=efc8a7cb27bdb1a1f34ee53487d6a435
I have two basic versions of the assembled form...one version is for the slim, but works fine with the fat. The other version is for the fat only; and provides a slightly higher top speed for the slightly different fan design. This includes a potentiometer. If you would like to mount this potentiometer internally, you must use glue to hold it in place; I recommend Permatex Ultra Black RTV...most auto parts stores sell it...the blue stuff is just as good if they don't have black...it will be internal, so the color is only visible when the case is open. You must also drill a hole for the shaft; as there are no existing holes in the PS3 case large enough to fit the shaft through. If you do not want to modify your case, you can simply run the three wires through ventilation holes, and hang the potentiometer from the side.
I currently have several PCBs left from my initial order, and I have more on order as well. If you decide to go with the BatchPCB route, be aware that shipping can take nearly a month in some cases.
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cam3r0n
Newbie
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30. December 2010 @ 15:36 |
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KillerBug,
I have tried and failed to construct your fan fix! I foolishly went to Maplins here in the UK and tried to get the components, EPIC FAIL!
My Voltage regulator doesn't output any voltage :(
Could you sell me one of your fully assembled fan controllers? I have already spent way more than $20 on attempts at creating the board!
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 1. January 2011 @ 18:00
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AfterDawn Addict
1 product review
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30. December 2010 @ 23:41 |
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Supply update: I just put the last assembled unit on standby for a requester. I still have several more PCBs, but I am in the middle of moving, and my soldering equipment is all packed away. I will still accept preorders on the 5 PCBs I have left; I will assemble and ship these on the 3rd. Once these 5 are gone, it will be 3-4 weeks before I have stock of the PCB version again, but I will offer a premade project board version (version 4.22) for $30 if your need is great (it takes a long time for me to make one of these by hand, thus the cost increase).
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T0dd
Newbie
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31. December 2010 @ 15:54 |
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Now that I have finished my third reflow, I wired the fan to run at 100%. That got old after about 2 minutes of trying to play Black Ops. Let me know when you have pre-made fan controllers available again.
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AfterDawn Addict
1 product review
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2. January 2011 @ 22:51 |
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Originally posted by T0dd:
Now that I have finished my third reflow, I wired the fan to run at 100%. That got old after about 2 minutes of trying to play Black Ops. Let me know when you have pre-made fan controllers available again.
LoL...I hear that...you need noise cancellation headphones if you run the fan at full speed.
I hope to be getting back up and running in the next day or two.
Long story short, the seller broke several conditions of the contract and the whole move has been a bit of a disaster...but I finally got in, and now I just have to find the box with my soldering iron.
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sheunoubi
Newbie
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3. January 2011 @ 23:06 |
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I am interested in one of these fan mods for the PS3 Slim
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mzhussein
Newbie
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9. January 2011 @ 12:30 |
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I tried to design my own circuit for this mod, based on your one, ive replaced the pot with a 100k resistor, (will be a 100k thermistor in practice but you cant easily simulate them), but it doesnt work, im also quite ill so trouble shooting it isnt working, can anyone offer some pointers.
thanks
Mehmet
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AfterDawn Addict
1 product review
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14. January 2011 @ 02:28 |
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I have opened up my PCB design so others can make it...I have been having trouble keeping up with orders, so I'll let others worry about it. Assembly instructions and parts list included, as well as basic install directions.
http://www.batchpcb.com/product_info.php?products_id=47799&check=efc8a7cb27bdb1a1f34ee53487d6a435
mzhussein - This design makes full use of the potentiometer, which is essentially two resistors. Going to a thermistor would require a total rework of the design...I had started on this, but I found that just about every model number would need a unique design...and I would need just about every model number in order to design them (and I only have two PS3s). I have a newer design using a trim POT, but I have not tested it yet as my order has not arrived yet. (I did test on a breadboard) The link is below. Essentially, it eliminates the two control resistors, and just uses the POT. This means that you must be careful not to turn the pot all the way up or down...you just turn it to the point where the fan seems to be cooling well but not making the noise of a jumbo jet, put a small amount of hot glue on it (optional), and it is done.
http://www.batchpcb.com/product_info.php?products_id=50333&check=72d216040b6da9511face17ee4d90037
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cam3r0n
Newbie
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14. January 2011 @ 04:02 |
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A beautiful fan controller arrived yesterday. Took minutes to install and works a treat. It's a bit bodged until I can get some glue to stick it all down nicely but at last my PS3 lives again!
Thanks Killerbug you are THE Man.
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mzhussein
Newbie
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14. January 2011 @ 04:14 |
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Originally posted by KillerBug:
I have opened up my PCB design so others can make it...I have been having trouble keeping up with orders, so I'll let others worry about it. Assembly instructions and parts list included, as well as basic install directions.
http://www.batchpcb.com/product_info.php?products_id=47799&check=efc8a7cb27bdb1a1f34ee53487d6a435
mzhussein - This design makes full use of the potentiometer, which is essentially two resistors. Going to a thermistor would require a total rework of the design...I had started on this, but I found that just about every model number would need a unique design...and I would need just about every model number in order to design them (and I only have two PS3s). I have a newer design using a trim POT, but I have not tested it yet as my order has not arrived yet. (I did test on a breadboard) The link is below. Essentially, it eliminates the two control resistors, and just uses the POT. This means that you must be careful not to turn the pot all the way up or down...you just turn it to the point where the fan seems to be cooling well but not making the noise of a jumbo jet, put a small amount of hot glue on it (optional), and it is done.
http://www.batchpcb.com/product_info.php?products_id=50333&check=72d216040b6da9511face17ee4d90037
ive subsequently built your design on strip board, and it works, but can only achive a 50% duty cycle, nothing lower, i havnt had luck in trouble shooting either.
Ideally i dont want to be "adjusting" the fan speed. so ive found (in the previous version of this thread) GoToChkn's circuit which uses a thermistor....im only working on the 60gb and 40gb models. do you know if this circuit would work for those models?
and can i ask, what differs from one ps3 model to the next?
Thanks for your reply
mzhussein
edit: swapped out the diode, can now get 10% duty cycle.....gona try and make GoToChkn thermistor design.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 14. January 2011 @ 04:37
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AfterDawn Addict
1 product review
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14. January 2011 @ 05:24 |
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If both resistors are 10K and the pot is 100K, then the duty cycle range should be about 10% to 90%...this is how the units I make work...10% is a bit slower than anyone should even consider going, and 90% is about 20% faster than the "Fan Test"...so there isn't much use for the last 10%. Of course, you can go with a 1K resistor in place of the "high speed" 10K resistor if you want to bring it to about 98%.
There are several differences to consider. First, the big difference is between the slim and the fat lines...all the fats use 5V pulses to get the duty cycle, while the slims use 3.3V. In addition to this, there are numerous different fan models, and they seem to push different amounts of air at the same duty cycle. This is why calibrating a fan controller to run the fan at a given speed for a given temperature is such a pain...you need to know how fast each fan will spin at given duty cycles, and you also have to know just how much fan movement you will need to keep everything cool. Here is a whole other issue...there are several different heatsink designs just for the fat models, plus numerous different versions of the Cell and the RSX, all making different amounts of heat. On top of that, some consoles have additional heat being produced by an emotion engine. And on top of everything else, YLOD repaired systems can sometimes make many extra watts of heat, throwing any previous calculations away. This is why I have been sticking with units that are easily adjustable...because you WILL need to do adjustments, even if you go with an all-internal design.
I know GoToChkn's design worked with my 40GB...but it worked like crap, and it was overheating within minutes. Supposedly, it works fine with either the 60GB or the 80GB (I forget what he said he designed it for). One of the major design problems was with the choice of IC...it was running at just 3.3V, so it should have used a TLC555 instead of the LM555 that he used. I never tested it with a TLC555...but I don't think that would have made it work with a 40GB model anyway (but I do think that over time, the units with the LM555 might start getting buggy, even on the 60gb or 80gb unit it was designed for). Another serious limitation was due to the power source...back then, the fan controllers ran from the "power on" signal line, and had very little power. If his design was changed to run off of the 12V line going to the fan (with a 5V VREG for fats or a 3.3V VREG for slims), I think it might work a lot better. Of course, R1 and R3 would have to be changed accordingly if you did this. Also, C2 could be eliminated if you used a TLC555 in place of the LM555.
I have never tried it, but there is one idea I had for modifying my 4.21 design to work with a thermistor. If you want to try it, be my guest:
Build the unit exactly as shown, but with a fixed resistor acting like legs 2 and 3 of the pot, and with a thermistor acting as legs 1 and 2 (leg 2 would have both). I know it would work, and that it would change speed with temperature...I just don't know how fine the adjustments would go, or exactly what parts I would want to use to get the ranges I want. I could experiment and make one for my 40GB and another for my 120GB slim...but then I would just have tons of people asking me to design on for the 60GB, and I don't have a 60GB. On top of that, I don't know what specific models of fans Sony used in different months...even if I designed something that worked perfectly with the fan in my 40GB model, it might not work at all in the other two versions of the 40GB...and it might not even work in 40GB units with the same model number, but built a few weeks earlier or later with some other fan.
...Now you should have some idea of the internal dialog I have with myself every time I consider designing a thermistor version. I'd be happy to whip up a pcb design if you can think of some way to get around all these concerns without spending $5000 on used PS3s for testing.
OH...BTW...my definition of "Overheated" might be slightly different from some others...I live in Florida, I don't like AC, and I was doing my testing during the hottest month of the year. I arbitrarily chose 130F (55C) as my heat limit, as this is the temperature where it "feels" too hot.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 14. January 2011 @ 05:35
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cam3r0n
Newbie
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14. January 2011 @ 05:39 |
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Another consideration for the thermistor, and why I discounted it, is that the problem isn't just overheating, it's heating and cooling cycles. Heating and cooling solder again and again causes it to crack. The POT design allows you to ramp the fan up to speed that keeps the PS3 cool, while a thermistor would react to heat and cool it down therefore stressing the solder. IMHO KillerBugs design is perfect, simple and effective.
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AfterDawn Addict
1 product review
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14. January 2011 @ 06:08 |
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There is one other consideration I didn't mention because it might just be me...
Given the choice between a fan that is always at high speed and a fan that is always changing speeds, I would like the former more. My brain filters out a constant noise after a while...it just blends in with the background. I know this is not the case with variable speed fans...just when I get used to the loud, it goes quiet and that bugs me...then I get used to the quiet and it gets loud again, and that bugs me too.
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mzhussein
Newbie
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14. January 2011 @ 06:31 |
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Originally posted by KillerBug:
There is one other consideration I didn't mention because it might just be me...
Given the choice between a fan that is always at high speed and a fan that is always changing speeds, I would like the former more. My brain filters out a constant noise after a while...it just blends in with the background. I know this is not the case with variable speed fans...just when I get used to the loud, it goes quiet and that bugs me...then I get used to the quiet and it gets loud again, and that bugs me too.
i hear ya man, lol. i hate chaging speeds, but hopefully itll "find" and equilibrium?
btw i just tried your idea for a mod of 4.21, and it isnt a goer, you get variation, but at 20%-40% its adjustable, then it just goes into jet mode, this is with a 27k as pin 2-3 (only value that worked, tried over 20 other values, between 500Ohm and 1Mohm)....tried a thermistor with the 27k instead of pot, and they are just poo lol
im gona build GoTochkns circuit, just to see how it performs. but your small and simple one works SO nicely, im very tempted lol.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 14. January 2011 @ 06:33
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mzhussein
Newbie
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14. January 2011 @ 07:26 |
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Originally posted by mzhussein:
Originally posted by KillerBug:
There is one other consideration I didn't mention because it might just be me...
Given the choice between a fan that is always at high speed and a fan that is always changing speeds, I would like the former more. My brain filters out a constant noise after a while...it just blends in with the background. I know this is not the case with variable speed fans...just when I get used to the loud, it goes quiet and that bugs me...then I get used to the quiet and it gets loud again, and that bugs me too.
i hear ya man, lol. i hate chaging speeds, but hopefully itll "find" and equilibrium?
btw i just tried your idea for a mod of 4.21, and it isnt a goer, you get variation, but at 20%-40% its adjustable, then it just goes into jet mode, this is with a 27k as pin 2-3 (only value that worked, tried over 20 other values, between 500Ohm and 1Mohm)....tried a thermistor with the 27k instead of pot, and they are just poo lol
im gona build GoTochkns circuit, just to see how it performs. but your small and simple one works SO nicely, im very tempted lol.
made GoToChkn's circuit....errrm, fundamental flaw? @v1, 3.3v get discharged accross R1 (10k) straight to fan, so as long as fan has 12v, the V from V1 will cause the fan to spin pretty fast, even WITHOUT the chip being in the circuit....is this a bad design, or am i being thick?...
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mzhussein
Newbie
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14. January 2011 @ 10:20 |
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ok i was being thick, id forgottern the 2nd cap, as soon as that was in it kicked into life! .....running off 3.3V was bad, and loud, so i tried running the same circuit off of a 5v regulator, and hey presto, at room temp, it sits at 27% duty cycle...pretty damn quiet. and if the temp gets high it steps up accordingly up to 60% (but that is SERIOUSLY hot)
got to hand it to GoToChkn, its a very clever circuit...and will be being implemented
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AfterDawn Addict
1 product review
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14. January 2011 @ 10:23 |
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Cool...just so I know, what version of the PS3 do you have?
Also, can you give me the specifics of the circuit so I can design a PCB for those who want it?
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 14. January 2011 @ 10:25
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mzhussein
Newbie
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14. January 2011 @ 10:57 |
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ATM ive tried it with the 60GB fan and the 40GB fan, gonna try it with the 80GB fan tonight. (all fatline)
Its exactly the same as GoToChkns one except add a 5v Vreg to power the IC (ive used NE555) ive spliced it onto the 12v fan supply line.
I used:
NE555 - IC
L7805 - Vreg
10k - R1
4.7K - R2
100k @ 25 - Thermistor (labled 85k on GoToChkns design)
0.1uF ceramic caps - C2 & C3 (no c1, looks like he might have deleted it)
If ive got time ill draw up my own diagram in multisim and post up. but sshould be everything anyone needs above.
EDIT: changed 47k, should be 4.7k
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 14. January 2011 @ 11:04
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AfterDawn Addict
1 product review
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14. January 2011 @ 12:50 |
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When you said you had "forgotten the second cap" did you mean C2 from his diagram? If so, it should not be needed...it was just to stabilize the unreliable "power on" signal we were using back then. Even the ne555 should be stable with a 5v vreg.
I'll have to try this out over the weekend...funny, once I moved past it, I never thought of applying the improvements from my pot-based design to his thermistor design. I might even give it a go on my slim...at 3.3V of course.
BTW...you seem to have access to a few more PS3s than I do, so perhaps you could answer me a question...
Are all the fan connectors on the units that you have worked with the same? I mean, are the plug/sockets identical, and the color scheme/pinout the same? The reason I ask is because I found a source for the connector for the fan in my old 40GB model, and I am going to check if it is the same thing as in the slim...if I can confirm that the 60GB and the 40GB have the same connector, and, if the slim has the same connector, then it is relatively safe to assume that all PS3s that are not within the 1-year warranty use the same plug, and thus I can make a plug-n-play design.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 14. January 2011 @ 12:55
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