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The Official OC (OverClocking) Thread!
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10. November 2007 @ 05:55 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Just to add my thoughts,
the best airflow route for me (and by that I mean can cool my PC sufficiently using fans that go so slowly they are completely inaudible, even with your ear up against them) involves using the following fan setup. Granted, I have more fan positions than some, but you get the idea:

Front fan: in
Top fan: out
Bottom fan: in
Side fan: out
rear fan: out

I run my graphics card passively, and my CPU cooler sends the warm air towards the back of the case.



Afterdawn Addict // Silent PC enthusiast // PC Build advisor // LANGamer Alias:Ratmanscoop
PC Specs page -- http://my.afterdawn.com/sammorris/blog_entry.cfm/11247
updated 10-Dec-13
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10. November 2007 @ 06:13 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
sammorris,
Quote:
Just to add my thoughts,
the best airflow route for me (and by that I mean can cool my PC sufficiently using fans that go so slowly they are completely inaudible, even with your ear up against them) involves using the following fan setup. Granted, I have more fan positions than some, but you get the idea:

Let's be honest though! You run at higher temps than a lot of us are willing to run our computers to get that quiet. I don't know how your temps are on the new MB though. Hope they are better than they were on the P5N-E! Mine makes a bit more noise now because my CPU cooler runs a couple of hundred rpm faster. Still I can't complain as the temps only hit about 52-54C running Orthos and idle just above room temp! DVDRB/CCE only sees about 42-44C.

Clockin On at the Speed of Light,
theone

GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor


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10. November 2007 @ 06:18 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
I don't know about Orthos, but nothing I've run so far can get my CPU above 41-42C load. The motherboard puports to be about 25C (yeah, whatever) but the heatsink is probably around the 40-50 mark. Warm, but nowhere near as hot as the P5N-E.



Afterdawn Addict // Silent PC enthusiast // PC Build advisor // LANGamer Alias:Ratmanscoop
PC Specs page -- http://my.afterdawn.com/sammorris/blog_entry.cfm/11247
updated 10-Dec-13
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10. November 2007 @ 08:13 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Hi Guys, Thanks as always for all your input!. I must say this is an area I never even thought existed!, I was of the understanding that the case fans that came with case was the be all and end all!. Anyway, I googled the fans you have Russ and I was just wondering will those things fit on mine aswell?, or will I have to mod it some how?, I dont really wanna be making larger holes in the case if I have to.

Thanks>>> Sam

Gigabyte GA-965P-S3 MotherBoard (Rev.3.3)/ Bios: Award Software International, Inc. Version:F13 , Core 2 Duo E6700 - 2.66GHz / OCd to 3.33GHz , x2 G.SKILL DDRII800 2GIG Ram Running at 5-5-5-15@400Mhz , nVidia GeForce GTX295 , Creative SoundBlaster X-FI XtremeMusic 7.1 Card , APEVIA Warlock 900W PSU , Cooler Master V8 Heatsink (CUSTOMISED) , Seagate 320GIG 7200RPM SATA-II 16M cache Internal Hard Drive , Maxtor OneTouch4 500GIG External USB Hard Drive , Asus 16x +/- Dual Layer Lightscribe DVD Burner , External LITE-ON DVD Burner , NZXT Sentry LX Fan controller & Heat Sensor , Antec Twelve Hundred Case (CUSTOMISED) , D-Link DSL-2730B Modem - Firmware v1.01 , Logitech x-530 Speaker System , Logitech G15 Keyboard , Acer 24" LCD Monitor , Windows XP Home SP3
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10. November 2007 @ 08:23 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Yep, the FM121s are solid performers provided you have a rigid steel case. The more lightweight Aluminium ones may cause them to make quite a lot of noise. if you do have a lightweight or Aluminium case, you may wish to try the Scythe S-Flex.



Afterdawn Addict // Silent PC enthusiast // PC Build advisor // LANGamer Alias:Ratmanscoop
PC Specs page -- http://my.afterdawn.com/sammorris/blog_entry.cfm/11247
updated 10-Dec-13
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10. November 2007 @ 08:50 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
sammorris,
Quote:
I don't know about Orthos, but nothing I've run so far can get my CPU above 41-42C load. The motherboard puports to be about 25C (yeah, whatever) but the heatsink is probably around the 40-50 mark. Warm, but nowhere near as hot as the P5N-E.

I'm glad it runs cooler than before. I don't know what you are using for your temps, but both speedfan and Everest don't read right with this chipset. At least the Everest temps check out right on mine though. Doesn't read the voltage right and it's reporting the NB fan at 4400 rpm. It's a 3000 rpm Silenex! LOL!! The others are correct! So the way I make it is the CPU is at 24C, the MB is at 37C and the cores are at 22 & 19C right now and it's 72F (22C) in here. The reason I think the Aux. is the MB and the MB is the CPU is because when I was testing, I turned off the fan and the Aux. temp went up. Plugged it back in again and the temp went down! There's supposed to be a new version (v4.20) of Everest out that works properly with the P35 chipset. Speedfan is even worse! It reads much higher than the digital probe reads.

So far I've had no problems, but after thinking about it I think I'm having trouble getting to 3.6GHz and above is because of the memory. I think if I get some 1066 memory, I will be able to OC more The lowest memory speed I can get at 3.6GHz is 1000MHz at the lowest multi (2.0), and no matter what timings I set it at, it won't boot. It wouldn't run at 1000MHz with the E4300 on the 965P board either. It's good for about 960MHz and that's it. Still that's a 20% OC on the memory.

I did have one wierd thing happen though. When I turned it on this morning, it powered on, then off and then on again and re-set the bios. I re-set everything and it's been working fine for over 22 hours. It was very cold in here this morning (below 10C) at 7 AM. I even ran Orthos for 3 hours with no problems. I've already run it for 12 hours without a glitch so I don't know. Everything I've run has given me no problems, including processing a movie with RB/CCE, Playing games and running a pass of 3DMark 03 I would think that if there is a problem it would have shown something by now. If it does the same thing later today when I get up, I'll call GigaByte on Monday and see what they say! Glad yours is running fine!

Clockin On at the Speed of Light,
Russ :>)


GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor


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10. November 2007 @ 09:16 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
sheeny33,
Quote:
Anyway, I googled the fans you have Russ and I was just wondering will those things fit on mine aswell?, or will I have to mod it some how?, I dont really wanna be making larger holes in the case if I have to.

No problem fitting! You have 3 120mm fans in that case now! Leave the front one as is and change the 2 rear ones. Drop the fan speed to about 1300-1400 rpm and it will move quite a bit of air. Given the amount of air they will move at that speed (around 150 cfm), you will more than likely be able to go even lower with both of them. If you get the "Stones", be sure to turn the knob all the way down when you start it up as they make considerable noise at full chat! They should work even better in yours than in mine as the combined airflow of 2 of them should do a better job of exiting the hot air. Yours should also be quieter than mine as you can run them both slower than I can mine.

Does you side cover have a mesh screen? That's what it looks like in the picture. If it does it should work real well. Once you find out what rpm works best, it's basically set and forget. Just be sure you use the supplied control, and try not to laugh too hard at the size of it (very tiny)! LOL. The electronics are all in the fan itself so all there is, is the tiny little pot to control them. I do not recommend using Speedfan to control it as it wasn't designed for control by voltage as they uses pulse count to set the rpms.

Clockin On at the Speed of Light,
theone :>)


GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor


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10. November 2007 @ 10:36 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Hey guys, me and my wife just lowered the temperatures that I gave before by at least 10c!, anyone with this case needs to read my next post which I should have up when I wake up, its to long to explain right now because its my bedtime!lol. Thanks guys and goodnite.

Gigabyte GA-965P-S3 MotherBoard (Rev.3.3)/ Bios: Award Software International, Inc. Version:F13 , Core 2 Duo E6700 - 2.66GHz / OCd to 3.33GHz , x2 G.SKILL DDRII800 2GIG Ram Running at 5-5-5-15@400Mhz , nVidia GeForce GTX295 , Creative SoundBlaster X-FI XtremeMusic 7.1 Card , APEVIA Warlock 900W PSU , Cooler Master V8 Heatsink (CUSTOMISED) , Seagate 320GIG 7200RPM SATA-II 16M cache Internal Hard Drive , Maxtor OneTouch4 500GIG External USB Hard Drive , Asus 16x +/- Dual Layer Lightscribe DVD Burner , External LITE-ON DVD Burner , NZXT Sentry LX Fan controller & Heat Sensor , Antec Twelve Hundred Case (CUSTOMISED) , D-Link DSL-2730B Modem - Firmware v1.01 , Logitech x-530 Speaker System , Logitech G15 Keyboard , Acer 24" LCD Monitor , Windows XP Home SP3
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10. November 2007 @ 18:12 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Anyone with an Aurora 570 Case and wishes to lower the temperatures by 8-9c instantly must take the air filter off the front intake fan. Last night I decided to clean the front fan,which incidently I hadn't done before because it seemed like to much trouble and besides that, it wasnt overly dirty anyway!. To get to the front fan you have to take the two casing sides off, remove the drives and then unclip the whole casing front off!. The front fan air filter pretty much just clips onto the fan. I took this off and gave it a good clean. My issue with this filter is that it inhibits the intake of air!, I'm not sure if its a design fault(not enough holes) or if its the type of material used to do the filtering but its just not letting enough air in. So I just left it off, and guess what, my temperatures are now alot lower at my overclocked speed, 10c lower in fact!.

I hope this helps people who have this casing or are going to buy one, my wife did mention to me afterwards that when she was doing some research for me on the case before I bought one, she read that they suggested taking the front filter off but didnt explain why, they also said its a pain in the a%# to reach!lol. All said and done though dont let all that put you off buying one because its a damn good case and well designed internally.

Sam.

Gigabyte GA-965P-S3 MotherBoard (Rev.3.3)/ Bios: Award Software International, Inc. Version:F13 , Core 2 Duo E6700 - 2.66GHz / OCd to 3.33GHz , x2 G.SKILL DDRII800 2GIG Ram Running at 5-5-5-15@400Mhz , nVidia GeForce GTX295 , Creative SoundBlaster X-FI XtremeMusic 7.1 Card , APEVIA Warlock 900W PSU , Cooler Master V8 Heatsink (CUSTOMISED) , Seagate 320GIG 7200RPM SATA-II 16M cache Internal Hard Drive , Maxtor OneTouch4 500GIG External USB Hard Drive , Asus 16x +/- Dual Layer Lightscribe DVD Burner , External LITE-ON DVD Burner , NZXT Sentry LX Fan controller & Heat Sensor , Antec Twelve Hundred Case (CUSTOMISED) , D-Link DSL-2730B Modem - Firmware v1.01 , Logitech x-530 Speaker System , Logitech G15 Keyboard , Acer 24" LCD Monitor , Windows XP Home SP3

This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 10. November 2007 @ 18:17

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10. November 2007 @ 18:23 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Forgot to add, thanks Russ for your last post!

Gigabyte GA-965P-S3 MotherBoard (Rev.3.3)/ Bios: Award Software International, Inc. Version:F13 , Core 2 Duo E6700 - 2.66GHz / OCd to 3.33GHz , x2 G.SKILL DDRII800 2GIG Ram Running at 5-5-5-15@400Mhz , nVidia GeForce GTX295 , Creative SoundBlaster X-FI XtremeMusic 7.1 Card , APEVIA Warlock 900W PSU , Cooler Master V8 Heatsink (CUSTOMISED) , Seagate 320GIG 7200RPM SATA-II 16M cache Internal Hard Drive , Maxtor OneTouch4 500GIG External USB Hard Drive , Asus 16x +/- Dual Layer Lightscribe DVD Burner , External LITE-ON DVD Burner , NZXT Sentry LX Fan controller & Heat Sensor , Antec Twelve Hundred Case (CUSTOMISED) , D-Link DSL-2730B Modem - Firmware v1.01 , Logitech x-530 Speaker System , Logitech G15 Keyboard , Acer 24" LCD Monitor , Windows XP Home SP3
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10. November 2007 @ 20:13 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
sheeny33,
Just trying to be helpful! On my Cooler Master Cavalier case the air intake for the front fan is on the bottom of the computer. To replace the fan all you have to do is remove 2 screws on the bottom and 2 screws below the door opening and the aluminum piece slides right out. very simple. That's why I tell most people not to change that fan. Being less cfm than the rear and the side fan insures air is drawn in through the side vent where it can cool the video card, and keep it's heat away from everything else. I'm moving about 100 cfm with the rear and side fans and only 23 at the front. It's not too difficult to see why this works so well.

BTW, I also did some reading on your GigaByte case and one of the main complaints was that the temps were about 10C higher with the clear insert than it is with the mesh. Makes sense to me! LOL!! Glad you got it cooled down a bit!

Clockin On at the Speed of Light,
theone :>)


GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor


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11. November 2007 @ 01:22 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Originally posted by theonejrs:
When I first did my build with the DS3 my MB temp was 47C at idle and the CPU was in the mid to high 30's.
Hi Russ, When you was getting these temperatures was it at stock speeds?. Another question, because I have a Zelman 9500LED which as you know is pretty large on the MB, will there be enough room to fit a new NB cooler+fan?, I havent decided on which one I'm getting yet, when finances allow though I will be upgrading my fans & NB cooler etc.

Gigabyte GA-965P-S3 MotherBoard (Rev.3.3)/ Bios: Award Software International, Inc. Version:F13 , Core 2 Duo E6700 - 2.66GHz / OCd to 3.33GHz , x2 G.SKILL DDRII800 2GIG Ram Running at 5-5-5-15@400Mhz , nVidia GeForce GTX295 , Creative SoundBlaster X-FI XtremeMusic 7.1 Card , APEVIA Warlock 900W PSU , Cooler Master V8 Heatsink (CUSTOMISED) , Seagate 320GIG 7200RPM SATA-II 16M cache Internal Hard Drive , Maxtor OneTouch4 500GIG External USB Hard Drive , Asus 16x +/- Dual Layer Lightscribe DVD Burner , External LITE-ON DVD Burner , NZXT Sentry LX Fan controller & Heat Sensor , Antec Twelve Hundred Case (CUSTOMISED) , D-Link DSL-2730B Modem - Firmware v1.01 , Logitech x-530 Speaker System , Logitech G15 Keyboard , Acer 24" LCD Monitor , Windows XP Home SP3
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11. November 2007 @ 03:13 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
sheeny33,
Quote:
Hi Russ, When you was getting these temperatures was it at stock speeds?. Another question, because I have a Zelman 9500LED which as you know is pretty large on the MB, will there be enough room to fit a new NB cooler+fan?, I havent decided on which one I'm getting yet, when finances allow though I will be upgrading my fans & NB cooler etc.


I was at 355 fsb at 3.2GHz with the E4300. I haven't found a chipset cooler that works as well as just modding the NB heatsink with AS5 and adding the Silenx fan. I tried a Thermaltake CL-C0034 Fan and haetsink and it didn't cool as well! I sent it back! I had to offset the fan about 1/4 inch away from the Freezer 7 Pro and could only use 2 screws but it worked just fine slightly overhanging the heatsink at the bottom to clear the CPU cooler. I think it works better because of the orientation of the fan, blowing air directly into the MN cooler. It seems to be the best way to keep any heat directed away from the CPU cooler. Seems to work just fine on the new one as well. There I mounted the Silenx directly on the center of the NB heatsink. It's the only thing that lowered both the chipset and the CPU and has cut down heat migration between the NB and the CPU. I think that's the biggest reason that the whole thing runs cooler.

sammorris will confirm that I did some extensive testing, complete with screenshots for another Forum because there were some doubts as to my temperatures. The tests were performed at 3.325GHz, encoding with DVDRB/CCE, running OCCT and providing thermal info with an older version of CoreTemp. My computer performed just as I had said it did and at the temps I had previously claimed.

Clockin On at the Speed of Light,
Russ :>)


GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor


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11. November 2007 @ 07:16 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Can I see a pic of your GA-965P-DS3 with the northbridge fan? I don't see how it will fit because of the Freezer 7 Pro so I want to se how you did it.
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11. November 2007 @ 12:03 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
abuzar1,

I'm using a 20mm x 20mm x 40mm chipset fan on my NB as well as my SB on my asus P5W DH Delexe with a zalman CNPS9500LED cpu hsf. plenty of clearance.

Rig #1 Asus Rampage Formula Mobo, Intel Core2Quad Q9450 CPU @ 3.55ghz, 2gb Corsair DDR2 1066 Dominator Ram @ 5-5-5-15, TR Ultra 120 Extreme w/ Scythe 9 blade 110 cfm 120mm Fan HSF, HIS Radeon 512mb HD3850 IceQ TurboX GPU, Corsair 620HX P/S, CM Stacker 830 Evo Case, Rig #2 Asus P5W DH Deluxe Mobo, Intel C2D E6600 CPU @ 3.6ghz, 2gb Corsair XMS2 DDR2 800 Ram @ 4-4-4-12-2t, Zalman CNPS9500LED HSF, Sapphire Radeon X850XT PE GPU, Corsair 620HX P/S, Cooler Master Mystique Case, Viewsonic 20.1" Widescreen Digital LCD Monitor, Klipsch Promedia Ultra 5.1 THX Desktop Speakers, http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=348351 http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=236435
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11. November 2007 @ 13:14 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
abuzar1,
Quote:
Can I see a pic of your GA-965P-DS3 with the northbridge fan? I don't see how it will fit because of the Freezer 7 Pro so I want to se how you did it.



I don't have a digital camera available at the moment, but with the GA-965P-DS3 and it's square heatsink the Freezer 7 Pro overhangs the heatsink just a tiny bit so you have to install it so it's outside the cooler so you have to install it 1/4" off center, away from the CPU. That's why you can only use the 2 holes in the fan nearest the CPU.

On the P-35 the CPU socket and the NB are about 1/2" further apart, so no problem. If you look at the picture above you will see 2 fatter grooves in the center part of the heatsink which the holes of the 20x20x40mm fan line up with almost perfectly with the 2 grooves and you can center it on the heatsink without the Freezer 7 Pro interfering. The cooler misses the fan by about 1/8"! Without the fan installed on the 965P the heat comes up right under the edge of the cooler making both the CPU and the NB run hotter, as well as that whole area of the MB because of heat migration. Making the fan blow into the heatsink allows the hot air to be carried away by the case airflow without heating anything up or interfering with the cooler's airflow.

Clockin On at the Speed of Light,
theone :>)

GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor


This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 11. November 2007 @ 13:22

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11. November 2007 @ 15:06 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Hello everyone again. Well im going to go with the intel 6850 cpu.
Now im confused once again on motherboard choices. I was going to go with the EVGA 680i but i cant because it doesnt support 1066 ram. Im going with pc8500 ram as being the prices arent so bad now.Corsair DHX XMS2 Dominator Dual Channel 2048MB PC8500 DDR2 1066Mhz Memory with Dominator Airflow Fan (2 x 1024MB) for only $190 USD. Which i think is good. So anyways, Now there are new advances in motherboards like p35 or x38 and so forth. So im here for your input on quality, performance, and
price. please do tell and be honest.My next question will be a decent video card. Im not a big gamer but should i choose to do a little gaming
i would like something that can hold its own. I mostly do alot of video related work as well as 3d graphics and clips. I use lightwave alot and that is an intense program. By the way the cpu cooler im using is the giant thermalright 120 extreme w/ 120mm fan. My power supply is the CORSAIR CMPSU-620HX ATX12V v2.2 and EPS12V 2.91 620W Power Supply. As for my case well im thinking about the thermaltake armor case aluminum. Because i will be loading it with as many sata hd's as the motherboard you recommend supports. ANy other questions feel free to ask. Please feel free to give your opinions on my set-up.

Once again thank you for your input....

Case=Antec Lanboy, Psu=Corsair HX620, Mobo=GA-X58A-UD5,Ram=Gskill 1600Mhz 3x2gigs,Cpu=I7 950 4Ghz,Cpu Cooler= EK 240 Water Kit,Gpu=HD6870x2,Eyefinity Set up,Ssd=Gskill Phoenix Pro 120gb

This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 11. November 2007 @ 15:14

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11. November 2007 @ 17:57 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Are you willing to spend a bit? If you are then go with one of the X38 chipsets since they support Peryn. Otherwise a Gigabyte GA-P35-DS3R will do fine.
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11. November 2007 @ 20:15 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
chop2113,

Based on a upper end of quality & performance w/ larger budget, then let me suggest what I have and where I'm now moving to quickly, since it sonunds like we have and require the same needs.

CPU: great pick for today till Penryns offer better lineups and @ better prices.

Motherboard; Stay w/ X38 and aim for DDR3 if possible aince performance is great on these chipsets and $$$ are coming down as we speak, but DDR2 is fine for another year on this if you get the best top notch DDR2 good to 1200/mhz +. 12 drives (SATA/PATA, excluding USB/IEEE 1394 A/B). For my 1st pick today, I look to the ASUS P5E3-WS Pro Workstaion Series from ASUS or the non "3" version as DDR2 only, Model P5E-WS Pro. Offering 10 SATA (4 E-SATA) and 2 PATA (EIDE). At just under $500.00 it't not as like some don't spend more then this on a single VGA just to play a game. So folks like me, it's not all that expensive as for what you get. You get a mobo state of the art todaay and for a good solid year to come + till new Intel onboard memory controllers come out requiring new chipset (maybe within 2 years).

Case; I still believe in the simple, yet very effective, 1 way in, 1 way out pissitive air flow ventalization. Extra vents in side or fans at off speeds and flow plus other venting leaks (ie, PIC slots and such) leave for slight reduction in good possative case aenalition plus quietness due to reduced wind noise csuaed by turbulance created by too man or impropper balanced fan control. I also sugest heavy metal steel to other alloys as they absorb noise and vibration so much better.

For good mobo on DDR2 at a lower Price, look to the P5E Deluxe @ around $230.00 USD with almost the same features as the elaborate MAXIMUS FORMULA of the ROG (Republic Of Gamers) series.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Clock On!

Sony PSP/PS3,
ASUS RAMPAGE II EXTREME(X58) w/ i7 930 DO @ 4.305GHz (205x21 @ 1.323v) 2:8 DDR1680 @ 6-6-6-18
ASUS RAMPAGE EXTREME (X48) w/ Q6600 @ 3.81GHz, 422x9 @ DDR1680 6-7-6-20 @ 1.71v
ASUS CROSSHAIR w/ x2 6400+

This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 12. November 2007 @ 00:44

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11. November 2007 @ 22:29 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Propper Case Ventilation

Sometimes, just the simplest yet effective set up can do wonders.

For everyday units, I stick to the one "IN" two "OUT" (using PSU as an OUT vent) ventilation method for best of both quietness and coolinf efficiantcy. This method makes the propperly closed and sealed case an important part of the ventilation ststem cause it forces air to flow where it's supposed to and not build up drag, turbulance and drop off in preasure leaking out other paths on the way to the primary exhalst duct/fan. This means closing off all open PCI slot plates and side vents or open bay slots in fron.

Side venting is OK if used correctly but we dont really use coolers that can benifit this type of outside air ducted intake to CPU like the older Zalman flowers or any stock cooler. For that to work, you would need to duct cool air from out of case (duct in side door) abd direct to CPU cooler center (only if it vents in toward the motherboard) so air is forced down and into around mosfets and chipset + RAM to aid as partof the cooling system. Many components can be ported/ducted to the case side door to lower tepms but if not ducted and only opened up as a hole drops air flow to overall system.

Anybody with side vents can try their own test at home to se if it helps your configuration. Cause, while you mat drop the CPU cooler teom by 1c, the mobo and NB/SB and VGA can rise by as much as 3c, hard drives too. And if this is the case for your CPU cooler, then it is a good indication thet the rear exhalst fans are not ballanced propperly to keep up with preasure created by CPU cooler and fill in w/ cool air intake from case fan in front.

The other god option is to just go with a large HTPC (desktop style) and "stove pipe" vent all major components. This is simplest as you just cut holes and duct w/ tubes over the areas of needed cooling ie; NB, mosfets, VGS, SB, and of corse CPU. This works with no fans cause warm heated air in the case at base of your stove pipe creates a natural convection as heat rises under preasure to top (cooled room temp) of opening. As it continues to work fresh air will be sucked in from any means f openings at bottom surroundings of case to keep the convection moving. Adding exhalst fans to the tube openings can only boost this action for added performance.

So as you can see, there are so many options and room for creativity as well. PM me as I am hapey to share more results for various configurations with popular coolers.

Keep On Clockin'!

Sony PSP/PS3,
ASUS RAMPAGE II EXTREME(X58) w/ i7 930 DO @ 4.305GHz (205x21 @ 1.323v) 2:8 DDR1680 @ 6-6-6-18
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11. November 2007 @ 22:45 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
It seems russ seems a big temp drops because of the side vents. Also I think VGA side vents come in handy when the cool air reaches your GFX card. I haven't really done any tests, so I'm just trying to imagine things and hoping I'm right lol.
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11. November 2007 @ 23:24 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
NuckNFuts,
Quote:

For good mobo on DDR2 at a lower Price, lok to the P5KE Deluxe @ around $375.00 USD with almost the same features as the elaborate MAXIMUS FORMULA of the ROG (Republic Of Gamers) series.

No disrespect intended, but most folks around here can't afford $375 motherboards and $500 memory. Even if I could afford it I wouldn't spend that much money for those items. I didn't spend it when I was making 100G+ a year and components used to cost more then than they do today. Even DocTY has slowed down on high dollar stuff and he makes a better living than a lot of us do! It's just not worth spending the big bucks just to be the first to have something! We have guys here who go to College, High School, raising families, etc! What they come here for is for someone to help them understand the in's and outs of overclocking and how to take that P4, Pentium D, 64x2 and C2Ds and make them perform better.

To me the whole point of overclocking is to make something from lesser components. Anyone can buy the absolute best, put it together and have a very fast machine. Granted it's much easier, but where's the challenge in that or for that matter, the need? When the Penryns come, things will be even better and faster but the price is going to be high for a while.

How fast is fast? Am I supposed to feel bad because your 6750s are faster than mine? Believe me, I don't! I'm happy for you that you reached 4.0GHz, but I wouldn't spend the same money you did to get there. I'm well satisfied with what I have and I'm ready for the Penryns!

Quote:
Case; I still believe in the simple, yet very effective, 1 way in, 1 way out pissitive air flow ventalization. Extra vents in side or fans at off speeds and flow plus other venting leaks (ie, PIC slots and such) leave for slight reduction in good possative case aenalition plus quietness due to reduced wind noise csuaed by turbulance created by too man or impropper balanced fan control. I also sugest heavy metal steel to other alloys as they absorb noise and vibration so much better.

It would be a wonderful world if there were specifications that all case manufacturers adhered to, but that's not even close to the case (no pun intended)! Let's face it! The majority of cases out there today don't cool worth a flip when you overclock, even some of the most expensive ones. It seems to me that when you can cure a heat issue just by the simple addition of a fan in the right place and can control the channeling of the air through the components in the case by increasing or decreasing the airflow of that fan to alter the path the air takes through those components, then you've found a good thing! I work with airflow every day, as I design miniature air turbines for Dental drills that operate at speeds upwards of 450,000 rpm, powered by a 28-35 cfm, 80 psi air supply. You have to be able to get that air in and out efficiently or the handpiece won't run fast enough or have enough torque to drill the teeth. I just apply what I learn in my work and study the airflow characteristics as applied to the inside of a computer case. I also live in one of the hottest parts of the country from May thru September with temps in the 110F and up range (it's been as high as 121F this year alone) My Cooler Master Cavalier case is a good one but better airflow through it makes it better yet. It was easy and cheap to do and I have a case that cools better than many cases costing 3 or 4 times or more! The $62 I paid for mine turned out to be quite a bargain. All it took was some studying on my part to see where the air flowing through the case wasn't good enough, and then figure out a way to make it better. I've consistently had some of the lowest temps in this and other forums over the last 2 years and didn't have to spend a ton of money to do it! I don't like water cooling as water and electronics just don't mix. All it takes is one tiny little leak and your wallet loses weight, possibly big time! No thank you!

I get the distinct feeling that water cooling is on the way out anyway as the new 45nm chips from Intel are so thermally efficient, use so little power and run so cool that you can easily overclock them on air alone with no problems or heat issues. Some of them draw as little as 8 watts at idle! I think the main problem for the new chips will be electro-migration. They just don't get hot enough for the heat to be an issue!

Respectfully Yours,
theone :>)


GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor


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12. November 2007 @ 00:30 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Theonejrs,
Quote:
I get the distinct feeling that water cooling is on the way out anyway
This is so unlikely, and if anything is not enough anymore. Let's face it. We're overclockers and too much is never enough. We get offered 3.2G, we want and shhot for 4G. Penryn is looking like it can do 4G from the get go so we'll shoot for 5G now.

So as for cooling, water isn't enough for those in search of 4.5 - 5GHz. Nitro is so expensive and dangerous so we'll likey see a move to Freon based A/C cooling for the desktop sometime soon. I used to do Home and Automotive A/C and can tell you the many benifits of a thermalstaticaly controlled system for PC Overclockers. Not as cold as Nitrogen, but many times safer and in reach of the average Joe's like us. Cause with overclocking , there will always be a need and desire to hit those closer to sub zero temps.

As for the above responce, I was only mentioning that as it was asked fro from a member. So just to clear it up a ad for others. I was suggesting it in comparison to one who would spend $600.00 on a video card or 2x at $350.00+ easy to go SLI, $230+ decent overclockable CPU to play the latest games, yet spend only minimal on mobo and sound. So it is not too far fetched to go for a $500 mobo + $150.00 VGA , + same CPU to get a good strong workhorse.

I so do believe in overclocking on a budget. It's fun, I do it for the challange myself. I do however get the best mobo/chipset I can to keep it stable as this is the backbone that all will ride on. If I could build my own mobo based soley on the NB/SB/DDR controller with abliity to custom BIOS to tweak as need be, then by all means, I'd go for that alone and leave out the "bling bling".


Sony PSP/PS3,
ASUS RAMPAGE II EXTREME(X58) w/ i7 930 DO @ 4.305GHz (205x21 @ 1.323v) 2:8 DDR1680 @ 6-6-6-18
ASUS RAMPAGE EXTREME (X48) w/ Q6600 @ 3.81GHz, 422x9 @ DDR1680 6-7-6-20 @ 1.71v
ASUS CROSSHAIR w/ x2 6400+
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12. November 2007 @ 01:24 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
I didn't mean to make it sound that far fetched and out of reach. The reality is it is within reach of some of the members here if they wanted to. I read so many post and sigs that show you guys are using $350.00 and above sets of SLI graphics on nominal to lesser priced motherboards.

I simply gave a user an answer I same if not less price option aimed more at great overclocking with good storage and not so focused on gaming initially (yet later, would be awsome). An ASUS P5E Deluxe on DDR2 is fairly priced as low as $230.00 and a nice mid quality HDMI PCI-E VGA by MSI can run as good as $150.00, overclockible DDR2 PC2-8500 2x 1 GB as low as $129.00. Still at only $510.00 Less then most gamers will drop for a single top end PCI-E nVidia or ATI. Put any budget CPU of your choise and you can't go wrong.

Let's take a pole. What is your guy's average spending on top end PCI-E in either single high end or SLI dual medium or high end?

ie; set of two EVGA 768-P2-N831-AR GeForce 8800GTX Superclocked 768MB 384-bit GDDR3 PCI Express $550.00 each ($1,100.00 for SLI).

Just A Though!

Sony PSP/PS3,
ASUS RAMPAGE II EXTREME(X58) w/ i7 930 DO @ 4.305GHz (205x21 @ 1.323v) 2:8 DDR1680 @ 6-6-6-18
ASUS RAMPAGE EXTREME (X48) w/ Q6600 @ 3.81GHz, 422x9 @ DDR1680 6-7-6-20 @ 1.71v
ASUS CROSSHAIR w/ x2 6400+
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12. November 2007 @ 01:30 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
NuckNFuts,
Quote:
This is so unlikely, and if anything is not enough anymore. Let's face it. We're overclockers and too much is never enough. We get offered 3.2G, we want and shhot for 4G. Penryn is looking like it can do 4G from the get go so we'll shoot for 5G now.

As I said, I made that statement based on some of the test's I've read from Tom's Hardware and a couple of others. Heat was not an issue at all. Figuring a way to eliminate electro-migration is. The electronic pathways in a CPU are sort of like super miniature fire hoses. Once a leak starts, there's no way to stop it as it will erode it's way along. It's not a matter of lowering the OC and everything will be all right. Once Electro-migration starts, there's nothing that can be done to fix it. The CPU is finished! Liquid Nitrogen won't prevent it. The only indication of a problem will be when it fails. Now at least we have heat as an indicator when we've gone too far. These new chips don't give you that. There is no warning and they can handle incredible overclocks with nothing to indicate when you've gone too far. You won't know it's broke till it's too late, you'll know only when it won't work anymore! I know I'm going to wait. I have a fast computer now and I'll let other people destroy enough of theirs until a knowledge base is built so us poor people don't have to risk their expensive CPUs. After a few months we should have a far better idea of just how much they can be overclocked and whether they'll last. Even the XX50s run cooler! Mine draws only 18 Watts at a stock idle speed. The E4300 draws way more than that. The Quad Core Penryn draws 3.78 Watts at idle.

I agree with "We're Overclockers"! Like I said, some people would overclock the oven if they could get their Pizza faster! LOL!!
Quote:
Nitro is so expensive and dangerous so we'll likey see a move to Freon based A/C cooling for the desktop sometime soon. I used to do Home and Automotive A/C and can tell you the many benifits of a thermalstaticaly controlled system for PC Overclockers. Not as cold as Nitrogen, but many times safer and in reach of the average Joe's like us. Cause with overclocking , there will always be a need and desire to hit those closer to sub zero temps.

I trust you meant Liquid Nitrogen? Nitro would indeed make a fast computer! LOL! At least till it landed! ROFL!! The problem now with existing Refrigerant based coolers, is condensation and a way to remove it, and they're still fairly expensive and very bulky. Also the available refrigerants today are woefully lacking in cooling power compared to the old R-12 systems although I did find a way to convert my AC in my old Fiero GT to the new stuff. I had to put a new compressor in and since it was made for the conversion to begin with, it worked real well. It even cooled well at idle speeds.


Best Regards,
Russ :>)


GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor


This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 12. November 2007 @ 01:47

 
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