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The Official PC building thread - 4th Edition
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2. May 2014 @ 23:08 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Speaking of routers, the Asus dual band router (RT-N66U) I turned over to dd-wrt has been up long enough that I feel comfortable calling it a success. The newest firmwares would crash it in less than a day so after rolling back to an older FW I was able to gain stability. it shows uptime of 42 days and even that reboot was to setup a different password on its VPN client settings. I Know 42 is not a big number but I've only had the thing a few months and the first few weeks were up and down for troubleshooting. I too use a prewritten script, used to connect the router to its VPN at the routers startup. If I had it to do over, I might have picked a router with a better processor to help with the encryption as the CPU meter is pegged at 100% at about 2MB speed download. The slow speed isn't alarming, I pay for basic slow service but I worry if I increase service speed will my hardware handle it.

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3. May 2014 @ 06:59 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
It should be fine, smart move rolling back your firmware, 42 days is a good sign from what you started with so good deal there.

Although my ADSL service at home is poor I can still run Netflix and download several files without interruption of my Netflix stream, which I couldn't do at the condo before getting the new router & modem. We had the all in one Motorola modem/router that Comcast (XFINITY) offered. The radio would periodically drop out on me, which I only found out after running an analyzer on my setup. It also showed me that too many people in our complex were not aligned properly, most being on ch.3 or 11, I changed to ch.6 which had the less traffic and use close to me. I wasn't impressed with Comcast's router shutting down often, not to mention their horrible firmware and the fact that their system only worked properly under WPA2 AES WiFi settings and then of course still having the radio issues.

This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 3. May 2014 @ 07:00

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3. May 2014 @ 07:03 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
I'm surprised modern routers are maxing the CPU out at such low throughputs - presumably it's less efficient firmware or something. The WRT54GL I had with Tomato could handle 4.7MB/s (37.5Mbs) no trouble at all, but was completely flummoxed by the increased speed service I have now at 8.1MB/s (65Mbps - not double as that's the VDSL limit for my line).

Important to note is that the CPU overload condition actually reduced the speed I had, from the original 4.7 down to around the 2.9-3.1 mark max. That's a situation you really want to try and avoid if you're looking at a potential line upgrade in the future.



Afterdawn Addict // Silent PC enthusiast // PC Build advisor // LANGamer Alias:Ratmanscoop
PC Specs page -- http://my.afterdawn.com/sammorris/blog_entry.cfm/11247
updated 10-Dec-13
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3. May 2014 @ 07:42 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
My router was cheap as hell and manages all of my wireless/wired with great speed, range, and reception. Can maintain a steady 4MB/s down which is directly in line with my connection speed(about 32Mbps). Was supplying somewhere in the 50-55 range on my friend's 60Mbps line, though it was hardly a controlled test and there were many factors at play.



AMD Phenom II X6 1100T 4GHz(20 x 200) 1.5v 3000NB 2000HT, Corsair Hydro H110 w/ 4 x 140mm 1500RPM fans Push/Pull, Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD5, 8GB(2 x 4GB) G.Skill RipJaws DDR3-1600 @ 1600MHz CL9 1.55v, Gigabyte GTX760 OC 4GB(1170/1700), Corsair 750HX
Detailed PC Specs: http://my.afterdawn.com/estuansis/blog_entry.cfm/11388

This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 3. May 2014 @ 08:15

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3. May 2014 @ 08:22 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
If I turn off the VPN client, the CPU load stays at5-10%, so it doesn't seem as if the hardware is an issue, it is the extra work of encryption/de-cryption of traffic between itself and the VPN server. Also, I should probably look into a specific QOS script for my PS3 traffic, i like to play WWE 2k14 against friends online and game play stutters and lags if I'm torrenting on a different network machine. If i set my torrent up.speeds at a minimum its not an issue so...yeah

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3. May 2014 @ 19:29 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
That would make sense as your VPN will take control of your CPU usage whether you're maxing it out or not unless you can do some load balancing or set limits to your VPN's throughput and possibly security levels. However it could still be a bug in your firmware version too, but it does sound like you got back to a stable platform. So I would see if you can change any of the parameters of your VPN tunnel, if you can that maybe the trick to load balancing.
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14. May 2014 @ 00:09 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
I just bought the Samsung Smart HU8550 UHD 55" TV so I'll be able to connect my computers to it and have at least 3 other programs on it all at once if I want. Or I can have a huge monitor with decent resolution. I'm also looking forward to watching the 50+ UHD movies plus tons of trailers until they get the 3-layer/4-layer BD formats ironed out next year for the new UHD format. I plan on buying Samsung's external HDD loaded with 4K movies and I'm going to buy a 3D/4K Upscale player with SACD/DSD capabilities until they come out with the new Native 4K players, I still have several SACD's discs I'd like to play. My HDMI Highspeed flat cables will work with the new TV but I've ordered two 10 foot RedMere - 18Gbps Ultra Slim Series High Performance cables to go with the new TV.

I went with the Series 8 UHD TV because it was basically the exact same TV, less a camera with the TV and a higher wattage audio system. However it does have line-array drivers, more/better apps, and it isn't curved like the HU9000's. Even though you get a much better display from dead center viewing with a curved 4K/3D you loose out more viewing from side angles. I initially wanted the Series 9 F9000 (flat) or HU9000 (curved) but after digging in more I changed to the Series 8 HU8550 which also has a better picture with the upgraded quad core processor.

I've looked at several High-End players, (Dennon/Pioneer Elite/Cambridge Audio/Marantz/Panasonic/Samsung/Sony/LG/OPPO/Yamaha)which covers most of the pack. Some of these players don't have 4K upscale, SACD/DSD, or a WLAN/LAN connection and some are just far too expensive for the quality & features.

So guys I'm seriously looking at the OPPO, Sony, and Yamaha (the Yammy doesn't have 4K upscale but my TV does so no biggy there).

My TV:
UHD 4K HU8550 Series Smart TV - 55?

The other Two:
UHD 4K LED 9000 Series Smart TV - 55?
UHD 4K HU9000 Series Smart TV - 55?

Players: (any comments welcomed)
#1 OPPO BDP-103EU Universal Blu-ray Player (the 105EU is more then I want to pay)
#2 YAMAHA Blu-ray Disc? Player BD-A1020 (no UHD Upscaling)
#3 Sony Dual core Blu-ray Disc? player 4K upscaling BDP-S6200

HDMI Highspeed 18Gbps Cables:
RedMere - 18Gbps Ultra Slim Series High Performance (BLACK)
RedMere - 18Gbps Ultra Slim Series High Performance (BLUE)
also come in WHITE & RED, I bought different colors to be able to easily distinguish what is connected to what.
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14. May 2014 @ 00:37 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Rather partial to Sony, Yamaha, and Pioneer myself.



AMD Phenom II X6 1100T 4GHz(20 x 200) 1.5v 3000NB 2000HT, Corsair Hydro H110 w/ 4 x 140mm 1500RPM fans Push/Pull, Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD5, 8GB(2 x 4GB) G.Skill RipJaws DDR3-1600 @ 1600MHz CL9 1.55v, Gigabyte GTX760 OC 4GB(1170/1700), Corsair 750HX
Detailed PC Specs: http://my.afterdawn.com/estuansis/blog_entry.cfm/11388

This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 14. May 2014 @ 00:37

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14. May 2014 @ 06:56 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Me too!, that OPPO UK crap I don't know. :D Just kid'n of course....

The Pioneer you have to pay for a LAN adapter, it doesn't come with the player. In today's world on a high end player that should be supplied, so that is a big turn off for me.

Sony for TV's I'm all behind and if I wanted a TV with great speakers I would have bought the XBR900 but the Sammy was better overall.

However for Players I typically steer away from them as I've had more issues with Sony and their proprietary approach to things and I don't want a player that isn't capable of playing most everything I though at it, that is exactly why I went to Samsung exclusively for players. It really burns when you pay $250 or more for a premium player and a $40 Magnavox player will play the disc the expensive Sony won't. Now the Sony will play SACD's even in the lower cost Sony's but it is a give and take as WMA's are limited as well as Lossy and other formats, which is exactly my issue with Sony's.

Yamaha has never let me down so it is a no brainier with them. However I am surprised that none of the Yamies have 4K upscale yet.

The OPPO really has the most features and claims to be extremely good in video/audio reproduction. Whether that is true or not is another story, for example; Behringer use to be great gear but these days they are over priced and not as good as some other solutions that are cheaper and hands down better.

If Samsung would support SACD formats life would be good as I would just go with them but that isn't the case and I'm better suited with a Yamaha or OPPO or Pioneer or Dennon player for quality sound reproduction.

Dilemma's....
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16. May 2014 @ 02:47 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
I don't have much to say lately. Have been gearing up to go back to school in fall. This time to a 4 year University for English.

Recently got some replacement Nintendo 64 joysticks gifted to me by a friend. The controllers are thankfully forgiving to disassemble and the swaps took all of 5 minutes a piece. Precision, material quality, and "feel" on the sticks is quite comparable to the originals. If you didn't know about the swap, you'd be hard-pressed to tell the difference. They are still very crisp, and need a little breaking in to loosen them up. They tend to be a bit jerky until the mould marks wear off and they smooth out, much like the original sticks.

The original joysticks went floppy and lost their return, as they famously do, a long time ago. Maybe it was the entire childhood worth of abuse they received? lol. If the new ones last anywhere near as long I'll be a happy camper for some time to come. They feel good and allow me to enjoy my very favorite childhood games again. Time to start rebuilding the stolen parts of my game collection...

Time will tell on the quality of these replacement sticks. They are made from factory molds and use the reference design. I won't be using them nearly as much as I used to, and I will treat them vastly better than my young self did, so hopefully they are a permanent fix.

Thankfully still have my original Xbox with all my favorite games and the Monster component cable. My best friend has the very rare Gamecube component cable which was $100+ when he bought it(Available for me to borrow of course :P). PS2 is a lot simpler as all you need is any knock off PS3 component cable.

I have a huge soft spot for the older generation consoles. Spent most of my childhood sitting in front of most of them before I discovered PC gaming and emulation :)



AMD Phenom II X6 1100T 4GHz(20 x 200) 1.5v 3000NB 2000HT, Corsair Hydro H110 w/ 4 x 140mm 1500RPM fans Push/Pull, Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD5, 8GB(2 x 4GB) G.Skill RipJaws DDR3-1600 @ 1600MHz CL9 1.55v, Gigabyte GTX760 OC 4GB(1170/1700), Corsair 750HX
Detailed PC Specs: http://my.afterdawn.com/estuansis/blog_entry.cfm/11388

This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 16. May 2014 @ 02:49

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16. May 2014 @ 06:45 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
That's great on the refurb of your controllers there nothing worst than a floppy stick, no pun intended? ;P English was my worst subject I don't know if I could handle 4 years of it, but sure could use the schooling! :D

I too still have 2 original XBox's, one of the two is almost brand new. They had a lot of great games on that console. I also still have a very good shape Genesis console that I should get out and is another one I'd like to still play. My Intellivision died years ago so I should see if you can still buy those, there was an online shop still selling them a year ago, before I can't! I loved that console and even though the games are blocky I sure would like to play some of the great games that came on that console. Colecovision & Atari 800's would be other loved consoles.

I like playing the old system as well and emulation for some of them but that normally isn't as good as the real thing.
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16. May 2014 @ 13:41 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Just dealt with a windows 8 laptop. I must say, I'm thoroughly disappointed. Huge step in the wrong direction, compared to 7. Some people like it, but it will take a great deal of time for me to get over the initial shock LOL!

Apparently, someone disabled the wifi at the driver level. Took me 5 min to fix it. Would have gone quicker, but finding device manager took most the time :S



To delete, or not to delete. THAT is the question!
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16. May 2014 @ 19:37 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
I hear you, I've played with it quite a bit and for me to use it I have to do a series of tweaks and mods before it is usable and if I'm going to do that why not just stay with Seven, the little bit of performance boost isn't worth the efforts in my thinking...
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17. May 2014 @ 23:55 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Yep Windows 8 can be gotten to a usable state. But given the effort required, not to mention the relative difficulty in removing a Windows 8 format from a hard drive, I really don't find any benefit in using it. The performance differences are minute for anyone with a halfway modern PC anyway, so the only real-world factor is usability. Windows 8 doesn't offer a single damn thing for the home user that Windows 7 doesn't already have. The majority of the time, 7 does those things with dramatically less hassle and with orders of magnitude more efficiency. The amount of effort required to do daily tasks and other simple things has been tripled. That's only the tip of the iceberg. The few powerful features Windows 8 DOES offer for say a professional environment are quickly overshadowe4d by the fact that even advanced users can't properly navigate the piss poor cartoon GUI.

Downgrading from Windows 8 to Windows 7 on customer machines at work is a nightmare. 9 times out of 10 the only remotely efficient solution is to remove the hard drive from the machine and Killdisk it in an external dock. Otherwise the drives have a factory format that ties your MFT with the UEFI BIOS. A form of poorly thought out DRM more than anything. Microsoft is basically trying to engineer Windows so it's the only thing you can install on a given set of hardware. I am only too happy to put up with the bother to get people away from Windows 8.

Start8 and ClassicShell are a start in the right direction, but they are FAR from the kind of fix that makes me want to use the OS. Disabling Metro entirely like was possible in RC versions is the only thing that will shift my opinion. The RC Version of Windows 8 is fantastic, and is essentially Windows 7 1/2. Just faster, cleaner, and better. The retail version was essentially a bait and switch..



AMD Phenom II X6 1100T 4GHz(20 x 200) 1.5v 3000NB 2000HT, Corsair Hydro H110 w/ 4 x 140mm 1500RPM fans Push/Pull, Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD5, 8GB(2 x 4GB) G.Skill RipJaws DDR3-1600 @ 1600MHz CL9 1.55v, Gigabyte GTX760 OC 4GB(1170/1700), Corsair 750HX
Detailed PC Specs: http://my.afterdawn.com/estuansis/blog_entry.cfm/11388

This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 18. May 2014 @ 00:01

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18. May 2014 @ 00:01 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Originally posted by Estuansis:
A form of poorly thought out DRM more than anything. Microsoft is basically trying to engineer Windows so it's the only thing you can install on a given set of hardware.

Epic fail! LOL! And a freeware circumvents. Boy I'm surprised LOL!



To delete, or not to delete. THAT is the question!
ddp
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18. May 2014 @ 00:19 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
8.1 supposedly can be configured to go directly to desktop bypassing the tiles.
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18. May 2014 @ 00:29 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Yet you need to go back to the tiles when doing anything. It just has the option to start in the existing desktop mode by default. It doesn't disable Metro, which is where the problem lies. Control panel for example no longer exists in the traditional sense. It's now all split into Metro.



AMD Phenom II X6 1100T 4GHz(20 x 200) 1.5v 3000NB 2000HT, Corsair Hydro H110 w/ 4 x 140mm 1500RPM fans Push/Pull, Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD5, 8GB(2 x 4GB) G.Skill RipJaws DDR3-1600 @ 1600MHz CL9 1.55v, Gigabyte GTX760 OC 4GB(1170/1700), Corsair 750HX
Detailed PC Specs: http://my.afterdawn.com/estuansis/blog_entry.cfm/11388
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18. May 2014 @ 06:42 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
The release of Windows 8.1 only brought back the "Start Button" but it is rumored that 8.2 plans to bring the true Start Menu back to Windows. My guess is that like mentioned it will still run under the Metro system so what have you gained?

Good point Jeff...

a snippet from Kevin Parrish (a positive spin)
on Windows 8.2
Quote:
This update is meant to address a variety of complaints by adding a few more Band-Aids for Windows 8's lack of mouse and keyboard support for nontouch PCs. Metro apps (aka Modern or Windows Store apps) will be available through the Windows Desktop's taskbar, and there will be standard Windows-style title bar options for splitting (aka snapping), minimizing, and closing Metro apps. (That's great because I'm pretty tired of having to grab an app in the middle at the top and pull downward to make it go bye-bye.)

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18. May 2014 @ 07:20 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
No experience with Oppo, never even heard of the brand.
My £250 Pioneer VSX-922 has an ethernet port on it, so I'm not sure what that's about. I was ideally hoping for a player that supported 3 analog outputs on the same channel for 5.1 passthrough to another analog device, but you have to pay almost triple what I did to get that, it simply isn't worth it.
Because for my small room the Logitech Z-5500s are all I could ever need, I've wired the satellites to the amp on the Pioneer, which can unsurprisingly drive them fine - since the subwoofer on the Logitechs isn't really geared up to be used separately, I'm using the SUB OUT of the Pioneer with a RCA to 3.5mm going to the centre/sub channel of the original Logitech control unit. Works fine for my purposes, even if it is a bit of a hack.
I looked at HDMI upscale, but didn't consider it worth it at the time as budget was fairly limited, and I couldn't really envisage much that would use it. I do use a 4K display but the difference between upscaled and internally pixel doubled sources isn't really great enough on a 32" display to warrant replacing the receiver at this stage. I'd consider it if I move somewhere that facilitates a 55" or so TV like you've purchased.

Jeff: Sounds good on the N64 controller refurb, I'm trying to remember if there was any appreciable difference between my N64 pads new vs. their latter years. I do remember they became a little bit less tactile, and picked up some sort of rattle, but still worked perfectly well enough.
I wasn't aware of an official gamecube component cable, but I bought a multi-purpose component cable for around £15 a few years back which covers the gamecube and the PS2.

The original Xbox is one of the few modern consoles I've spent very little time with. There were a lot of games I missed out on that gen as I was limited to only having one console of the major three (Previously I'd achieved more via my brother owning some of them).

On the Windows 7 vs. Windows 8 debate, 8 is unquestionably inferior to 7 from both a user experience and reliability standpoint. Businesses are usually pretty strict about allowing only Windows 7 laptops to be ordered with good reason - supporting them in a business environment is not remotely cost-effective.
I use it on my PCs, but three out of four of them have some pretty alarming bugs, that really beg being reformatted to get rid of. It's not something I've got rouind to doing hyet...
Oh, and I of course use classicshell on all of my PCs, and I install it on almost every Win8 machine I come across at work to make the user experience more tolerable.
As annoying as this is, I was absolutely dumbfounded to discover that Server 2012 uses that interface as well. An example of why this is a problem is one of our client's servers had a desktop icon shortcut to cmd, as that was the only way of getting access to a command prompt without a fight.

The 'fixes' in 8.1 are a means of promising people a useable O/S and implementing nothing of the sort. Careful wording allowed people to give them the benefit of the doubt and fix the mess they created with 8, only to discover they'd done nothing that really helped.
My last understanding was that Windows 8.2 was not going to exist, and instead become Windows 9 which would be at least a further 18 months away.

A few of my gripes with 8:
- A fairly good proportion of the time (and almost always with certain applications) - a crashed process will enter a protected state, where the only option to terminate it is to reboot the machine. This does not stop the PC rebooting, so clearly windows has the rights to terminate it, but the user (via TaskManager, or even third party apps like Process Explorer) does not. If you can only run one instance of a process (e.g. most games), enjoy needing to reboot if they ever crash.
- 'Update and shutdown' only occurs a certain proportion of the time - I think there's a registry hack you have to run to enable it. Forcing people to 'update and restart' in said is mildly annoying, but it gets better. When an update is due, the default option when you shut down is 'Switch user'. Since there is no notification on the desktop that an update is pending, when you go to shut down, you just hit enter quickly as you're used to doing, and end up back at the switch user screen, not even having logged off - so you need to log back in again, then go to shut down and pick the correct option.
- A further point on that note, windows update enforces a mandatory 48-hour reboot after updates are applied. I think this can be changed in group policy editor, or perhaps the registry, but there's no UI to disable this behaviour - so you'll be working away and suddenly poof, the PC reboots without warning. After all, since you're in the desktop you had no idea an update was coming. These notices are only displayed in the metro area.
- The touchscreen keyboard is a bit bugged. On my LAN PC, every time I play Battlefield 4 (now if you want bugs :P), once the game has loaded I need to alt-tab, open the services.msc page and do a properties on the touch keyboard service. I don't even need to change any values, just the very fact the properties page is open allows Windows to realise I'm not trying to play Battlefield with a touchscreen. If I don't do this, the keyboard and mouse do nothing.

There's plenty others, but I think you can see the kind of stuff people have to put up with.



Afterdawn Addict // Silent PC enthusiast // PC Build advisor // LANGamer Alias:Ratmanscoop
PC Specs page -- http://my.afterdawn.com/sammorris/blog_entry.cfm/11247
updated 10-Dec-13
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18. May 2014 @ 19:42 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Nice to see you back on the thread Sam. Your tiny speakers should sound fine with a decent receiver. It's too bad you can't setup a good audio system in your room as it is a whole different world, I dread the day that I would have to rely on computer speakers for my pleasurable listing environment. Luckily you're not getting DC feedback converting RCA-to-TRS connection, I do that in certain situations and can get a noise floor problem of approximately 20dB of 60 cycle feedback. I overcome it with an isolation transformer that doesn't hinder my frequency response to terribly, it's a high quality transformer but it does affect the gain slightly.

I use my Yamaha RX-V2400 for most of my connections as it is the heart of my system. I'm going to upgrade the old girl though and most likely go to the Yamaha CX-A5000 Preamp in chorus with my Crown XLS amps. Or I'll get the Yamaha Adventage RX-A3030 receiver but the preamp is truly my best path.

Well the Pioneer does have a LAN connection, I missed that, it doesn't have a WLAN but you can buy it additionally. The Pioneer Elite BDP-62FD is a very good player from a Audio & Video stance I found out after digging around some more. I also can mod it to make it even better so it is back in the fold of considerations. Also 4K upscale isn't important really for this player as it will be more so my Audion player, primarily! With that said I've eliminated the Sony due to all sorts of potential problems playing different formats and this is what I'm now focusing on:

#1 - Yamaha Blu-ray 3D? Player BD-S677 (Excellent player and fully integrates with my audio gear and smart phones)
#2 - Pioneer® Elite Blu-ray 3D? Player BDP-62FD (great audio/video and is moddable)
#3 - OPPO BDP-103D Darbee 3d/4K Player (all around good, from what I've read) This might still be the best?

Here is my existing Yamaha RX-V2400







Here is the Yamaha CX-A5000 Preamp:







And here is the Yamaha AVENTAGE RX-A3030:







You my toys!!
:D Steve ;P
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18. May 2014 @ 20:10 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
That RX-a3030 is a beast! I want it! But $2000 from newegg? 8 paychecks, if I weren't paying bills :S You do get what you pay for though ;)



To delete, or not to delete. THAT is the question!
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18. May 2014 @ 20:26 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Heh tiny speakers - the satellites are still 60W RMS each you know? They go pretty unpleasantly loud in a small room, I would have no use for anything more powerful at all. People have been known to crack ceilings with Z-5500 sets.

Yeah I've been around, reading posts, but I don't often have much to post about myself, been busy with work for so long I regularly forget what I was going to do with my spare time :P



Afterdawn Addict // Silent PC enthusiast // PC Build advisor // LANGamer Alias:Ratmanscoop
PC Specs page -- http://my.afterdawn.com/sammorris/blog_entry.cfm/11247
updated 10-Dec-13
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18. May 2014 @ 20:49 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
60W RMS? My tweeters on their own can handle more then that. Besides speaker wattage isn't always a good measuring factor, actually normally not at all unless it is a venue issue. With my clean amps, the Crown's, and not clipping the signal I could easily drive your 60W speakers ate twice their continuous rating and not blow them. But I know for small speakers that those are extremely nice, I wasn't meaning to rib you on that but knew my comment would get a spark from you. Seriously though if you listened to my system you would definitely see where I'm coming from and appreciate that stance.

You always have great input so it's nice to see you chime in, whether it's indifference or not! :D I sure get being busy and not having time, for sure.

Yes Kevin I know you would love to play with the latest Yamaha and would love it too. If you dig around you can find the RX-A3030 for around $1500 USD, still a serious chunk of change though....

Steve
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18. May 2014 @ 20:53 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Originally posted by Mr-Movies:
60W RMS? My tweeters on their own can handle more then that. Besides speaker wattage isn't always a good measuring factor, actually normally not at all unless it is a venue issue.

Steve
Yes indeed. Nor when comparing amplifiers. For instance, a 200W Precision power amplifier, would likely smoke a 600W sony amplifier.



To delete, or not to delete. THAT is the question!
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18. May 2014 @ 20:56 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Absolutely!!
 
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