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Newbies pls see this - cheapy media is BAD.....
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pixiestix
Newbie
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24. June 2005 @ 20:03 |
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im worried if this is a bad sign.
most others are consistant like these.
(ps this my 2nd time doing images so if it doesnt work im sorry}
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drayon
Newbie
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24. June 2005 @ 23:44 |
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here is a question yet to be asked.
What happens when a user burns a movie @ 4x or 8x to cheepo media like Princo's, then i get the disk, rip with DVD Decrypter and burn the ripped image to Quality genuine Taiyo Yuden TY01/TY02 media @ 4x ?
If the Princo had PI/PO errors, will these errors be become apparent in the ripped image and thus transfered to the quality TY media?
Some ppl refuse to change to quality media like TY's because they say their Princo's work fine on their players an a few others.
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Moderator
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25. June 2005 @ 00:20 |
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as long as there are no CRC errors on the source you're copying from, and the new copy is done correctly you should expect a good copy, CRC (corruption) is still corruption
Main PC ~ Intel C2Q Q6600 (G0 Stepping)/Gigabyte GA-EP45-DS3/2GB Crucial Ballistix PC2-8500/Zalman CNPS9700/Antec 900/Corsair HX 620W
Network ~ DD-WRT ~ 2node WDS-WPA2/AES ~ Buffalo WHR-G54S. 3node WPA2/AES ~ WRT54GS v6 (inc. WEP BSSID), WRT54G v2, WRT54G2 v1. *** Forum Rules *** |
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drayon
Newbie
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25. June 2005 @ 02:10 |
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nice thanks, so if i rip a disk with cyclical redundancy check errors would it be advisable to abort the rip an discard the disk?
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Moderator
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25. June 2005 @ 02:13 |
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if it's a movie and you get all the files off to hard drive successfully, in theory the resulting copy should be fine.
Main PC ~ Intel C2Q Q6600 (G0 Stepping)/Gigabyte GA-EP45-DS3/2GB Crucial Ballistix PC2-8500/Zalman CNPS9700/Antec 900/Corsair HX 620W
Network ~ DD-WRT ~ 2node WDS-WPA2/AES ~ Buffalo WHR-G54S. 3node WPA2/AES ~ WRT54GS v6 (inc. WEP BSSID), WRT54G v2, WRT54G2 v1. *** Forum Rules ***
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pixiestix
Newbie
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28. June 2005 @ 03:37 |
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I scanned one of my dvds in dvdinfo with no errors,
but when i used kprobe it says i had 14 wich do i believe?
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Moderator
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28. June 2005 @ 04:09 |
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my opinion would be to trust the CRC scan. as i mentioned further up the thread, kprobe showed no errors on a disc whereas a CRC scan did. This is borne out when you try to copy a disc, CRC is corruption whichever way you look at it..
Main PC ~ Intel C2Q Q6600 (G0 Stepping)/Gigabyte GA-EP45-DS3/2GB Crucial Ballistix PC2-8500/Zalman CNPS9700/Antec 900/Corsair HX 620W
Network ~ DD-WRT ~ 2node WDS-WPA2/AES ~ Buffalo WHR-G54S. 3node WPA2/AES ~ WRT54GS v6 (inc. WEP BSSID), WRT54G v2, WRT54G2 v1. *** Forum Rules ***
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pixiestix
Newbie
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28. June 2005 @ 04:24 |
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one more thing.
evertime i scan with the bler test.
its different results each and every time.
im confused.
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pixiestix
Newbie
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28. June 2005 @ 04:26 |
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one more thing.
evertime i scan with the bler test.
its different results each and every time with same disk.
im confused.
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Moderator
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28. June 2005 @ 04:36 |
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@pixiestix - now that's something i don't know the answer to, and i've google searched and still don't know..
Main PC ~ Intel C2Q Q6600 (G0 Stepping)/Gigabyte GA-EP45-DS3/2GB Crucial Ballistix PC2-8500/Zalman CNPS9700/Antec 900/Corsair HX 620W
Network ~ DD-WRT ~ 2node WDS-WPA2/AES ~ Buffalo WHR-G54S. 3node WPA2/AES ~ WRT54GS v6 (inc. WEP BSSID), WRT54G v2, WRT54G2 v1. *** Forum Rules ***
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kchev
Member
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28. June 2005 @ 07:30 |
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Quote:
one more thing.
evertime i scan with the bler test.
its different results each and every time with same disk.
im confused.
there are alot of variables that change the scan.
removing the disc from the drive and reloading it so it sits a bit different in the tray is one of them, etc.
it is virtually impossible to get the same scan twice, it will always vary some :)
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pixiestix
Newbie
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28. June 2005 @ 16:36 |
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Somtimes there are alot of errors on the bler test then the next time none at all. I Guess the dvdinfo prog is the way to go to scan these dvds of mine.
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Mankey
Newbie
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1. July 2005 @ 06:30 |
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A CRC message is not only caused by corruption/errors of the data or the media you buy to back them up on. You can get a CRC because of the condition of the disk you are burning such as scratches or dirt. It can be caused by failure of the read/write electronics (update) or failure of the drive electronics(although most modern hardrives use ECC which does not report it to the user, it will become sluggish and over 11 bits of error will be treated as a CRC). Companies are now putting in the errors on purpose as a way to copywrite protect and data can degrade over time because the magnectic fields weaken. If your having problems make sure windows and your software are updated I use Nero ultra6 with dvdshrink (configure it right and I burn at 2x's, slow but works) and if that dosent work i use DVD Decrypter then drop it into dvdshrink to burn, with any disk on sale. No problems and the only ones i do have problems with is because to the condition of the disk I am burning from. It really is that simple.
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nohelpme
Senior Member
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2. July 2005 @ 06:21 |
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Let me share my own story with bad media. Yes, I too thought cheap media was great. I followed someone's bad advice and bought a batch of no name media for like .20 a disc. They were not bad I bought a spindel of about 100. Out of the 100 disks, 20 would not burn period. Plus after 6 months, almost none of them worked. Take it from me, I have learned a lot from this site and I can tell you the first rule of backing up dvd's is this... don't use cheap media....do not use no name media, COMPUSA especially. Anything that is made in India or Taiwan stay away from. Taiyo Yuden and Verbatim are the best you can buy. I have burned now over 1,000 dvd's in various formats and I can tell you these are the best you can buy!
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Moderator
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2. July 2005 @ 06:24 |
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@nohelpme, ALL Verbatim is now made in Taiwan. Plus not all other taiwanese made media is bad. I don't know much about what media's made in India, apart from Verbatim used to make media there too.
Main PC ~ Intel C2Q Q6600 (G0 Stepping)/Gigabyte GA-EP45-DS3/2GB Crucial Ballistix PC2-8500/Zalman CNPS9700/Antec 900/Corsair HX 620W
Network ~ DD-WRT ~ 2node WDS-WPA2/AES ~ Buffalo WHR-G54S. 3node WPA2/AES ~ WRT54GS v6 (inc. WEP BSSID), WRT54G v2, WRT54G2 v1. *** Forum Rules ***
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 2. July 2005 @ 06:25
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nohelpme
Senior Member
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2. July 2005 @ 06:58 |
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Wow, thanks for the info on that. I did not know that. Gets me a little conserned but hey they could have a1 product facilities so i don't want to descriminate on anyone country. I guess more of a reason to stick with Taiyo Yuden.
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dj_slamma
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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12. July 2005 @ 13:13 |
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I know when copying ps2 games it is best to use DVD-R with go4 dye. But it is hard to get these days. Does anyone know of any other good dye to use e.g go5.
Thanxs very much dj_slamma
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pixiestix
Newbie
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12. July 2005 @ 16:10 |
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ive recently switched from cmag to ritek
was that a right move?
a friend said ritek sucks i have not a bad error using them lately at burning over 70 dvds.
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AfterDawn Addict
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13. July 2005 @ 00:10 |
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your change from cmag to ritek is DEFINITELY A GOOD MOVE~ :) your friend seems biased on Ritek media as per chance he/she MAY have had some bad burns with them, but, RItek is rated #3 on MY PERSONAL list of GOOD MEDIA, only behind Taiyo Yuden and Verbatim~ :)
i have had nothing but GREAT success of Ritek G05s 8x DVD-R media, others have had problems, and then others again have had equal success with them too~ i would consider Ritek GOOD budget media as it's VERY good from my OWN experiences, they are the only other company that is manufacturered in Taiwan that i would recommend other than Verbatim if you are more budget-minded..they ARE cheaper than Verbatims for the most part unless you get Verbs on sale~ :)
so, it's kind of a toss up pixiestix, your setup MIGHT be similar to your friends' that didn't like the Riteks, but, it might be different~as you said you've had 70 good burns using them, so STICK WITH WHAT WORKS FOR YOU, disregard your friend's hatred for them. i have had hundreds of successful/flawless burns with my G05s, but, as is true w/ anybody that makes backups, depending on your personal setup, there are TOO many factors to weigh in to guarantee ANYTHING to you...
Recommended Media:
Taiyo Yuden 4x dvd-r TYGO1/ 8x dvd-r TYGO2/ 8x dvd+r YUDEN000T02/ 16x dvd+r YUDEN000T03
Verbatim 8x dvd+r MCC003
Verbatim dvd+r DL (MKM001)= flawless no compression backups
"Do Yourself A Favor, Use The Good Stuff
TY & Verbs 4 Life~ :)" ~docTY~
"Its better to be quiet and appear stupid, then to open your mouth and remove all doubt."
I am always prepared to recognize that there can be two points of view - mine and one that is probably wrong - John Gorton
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Moderator
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21. July 2005 @ 12:44 |
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not bad media but one of my TY that has 10 errors (according to KProbe2) - i was stupid enough to kick off a Bit Torrent download during the Nero burn and the large buffer in Nero tailed right off to zero then slowly climbed back up. A CRC scan of disc showed no errors but i don't trust it so will reburn. Grrr not more torrents during burns!
Main PC ~ Intel C2Q Q6600 (G0 Stepping)/Gigabyte GA-EP45-DS3/2GB Crucial Ballistix PC2-8500/Zalman CNPS9700/Antec 900/Corsair HX 620W
Network ~ DD-WRT ~ 2node WDS-WPA2/AES ~ Buffalo WHR-G54S. 3node WPA2/AES ~ WRT54GS v6 (inc. WEP BSSID), WRT54G v2, WRT54G2 v1. *** Forum Rules ***
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forkndave
Member
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21. July 2005 @ 15:06 |
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It looks like I'm having my usual luck of buying DVDs. This time I got some Ritek G05 which I usually have good luck with. These discs were burned on 2 different burners, the first on a Benq 1620 and the second on an LG GSA-4163B. You can see blemishes on both discs and a ring on one I finally burned it on a TY which I've also found problems with lately and it came out good. It looks like quality control has gone completely to shit.
Nero CD/DVD speed disc quality couldn't read the second disc completely. These both have the same movie on them.
Dave
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 21. July 2005 @ 15:09
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Moderator
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21. July 2005 @ 22:20 |
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as i usually say, i don't/won't use Ritek for reasons like that..but there must be some media your drive(s) like(s) :)
Main PC ~ Intel C2Q Q6600 (G0 Stepping)/Gigabyte GA-EP45-DS3/2GB Crucial Ballistix PC2-8500/Zalman CNPS9700/Antec 900/Corsair HX 620W
Network ~ DD-WRT ~ 2node WDS-WPA2/AES ~ Buffalo WHR-G54S. 3node WPA2/AES ~ WRT54GS v6 (inc. WEP BSSID), WRT54G v2, WRT54G2 v1. *** Forum Rules ***
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forkndave
Member
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22. July 2005 @ 00:32 |
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They used to like most anything except Optodisc or Leaddata. It seems that what I can be most sure of is Verbatim. My Pioneer and Lite-On don't appear to like TY very much. None of them appear to like Ritek which I used to have very good luck with. I figure that's probably due to the blemishes I keep finding. It seems that whatever I buy that seems good isn't the next time I buy it. Surely I don't have 4 bad burners. I guess I'll keep stumbling along untill I find something that all of my burners like. Right now, Verbatim appears to be the closest.
Dave
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Moderator
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22. July 2005 @ 01:35 |
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(creaky sounds like stuck record as per normal lol) - have yet to have any issues with any Verbs. i have even got a 100 just bought in, they're older Indian stock like i've used a lot before, very nice..
Main PC ~ Intel C2Q Q6600 (G0 Stepping)/Gigabyte GA-EP45-DS3/2GB Crucial Ballistix PC2-8500/Zalman CNPS9700/Antec 900/Corsair HX 620W
Network ~ DD-WRT ~ 2node WDS-WPA2/AES ~ Buffalo WHR-G54S. 3node WPA2/AES ~ WRT54GS v6 (inc. WEP BSSID), WRT54G v2, WRT54G2 v1. *** Forum Rules ***
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abcinet
Newbie
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31. July 2005 @ 19:03 |
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@ Matt 72
Tips on the perfect P.C. you were asking about from a guy who has built thousands over the last 12 years.
1) No store bough P.C. will ever suffice
2) If you want the best, do your homework and have a system builder build custom for you.
3) Go AMD instead of Intel. Less expensive hardware that generally outperforms Intel processors in "Real World Tests" not benchmarks from programs that put out lines and graphs you will never use but real programs and games you want to run
4) Recommendations in order of importance to get the most speed from your P.C. :
a) Put as much money into the disk system as possible above all other things. If you can afford a high end motherboard like the ASUS A8N-SLI Premium Socket 939 NVIDIA nForce4 SLI ATX AMD Motherboard you will get RAID (Redundant Array of Inexpensive Disks) capability which in my opinion is one of the most important things to spend your hard earned cash on. Why? Because you can buy two 75 GB Western Digital Raptor hard drives running at 10,000 RPMs (instead of standard 7200 or worse 5400 RPMs) and run them in a RAID 0 array where the two are paired together to act as one single 150 GB drive (- formatting overhead so it wont read exactly 150 when looking at in Windows). The benefit is that instead of one drive writing and reading with a maximum throughput of 150 MB per second you are actually writing part data to one drive at the exact same time part data is writing to the other drive so the combined best throughput rate is doubled (300 MB per second). Since any chip beyond 3 Gigahertz has awesome capacity these days and RAM is dirt cheap (recommend at least a Gigabyte of it if you can afford), the single worst slow point in a machine is the disk subsystem. Any large improvements here translate to VISIBLE performance gains. I went from an AMD 3500 to the 939 3700 which is a neglible, virtually invisible to the eye 200 Mhz difference in real world use, stayed with the exact same Kingston Hyper X 1 GB of RAM but the addition of the Raptor RAID array was huge. It took me 5 minutes to format the ARRAY, and load Windows XP Pro (which I don't necessarily recommend over Home Edition if you are a gamer). This is down from 12 minutes under the prior config which had a single 250 GB WD 7200 RPM drive. Anyway, the mainboard I mentioned has 8 channel surround but I still recommend the Creative Labs Sound Blaster Audigy ZS series if you can afford. If you go with the pro version it comes with an external box that connects up to every device known to man through every type of input ever made (not really but close) and the sound is awesome.
b) Video cards: This is the most subjective piece of equipment in the machine based on what you are likely to use the most. If you are a gamer you do want to spend the bucks even if not right away and get a high end gaming card. Years ago I purchased the top of the line Guillemot/Hercules 64 Prophet Ultra series and paid over $500 for it. It has served me so well through the years and countless mainboard/cpu upgrades I can't even tell you about them all. It was/is so good still that I finally was forced through the purchase of the mainboard mentioned above to buy a new high end video card and got the PCI Express (the mainboard requires it NO AGP in this box) EVGA 7800 GTX video card with 256 MB RAM. It was so long since I have upgraded the video and so much technology has changed that I was expecting something truly great to happen to my 19" LCD monitor while running DOOM 3, Far Cry, and Battlefied 2 that came with the video card - and guess what - no big deal. $619 later (now much less even a few weeks later I have seen it for almost $100 cheaper) I am no more visually stunned with the playback or color quality or anything else while playing these games. This is not to say anything negative toward the new EVGA card, but rather (I hope) a testament to how great the old high end graphics card was. Basically this is not a component that once chosen needs to be replaced like socks if you choose well to begin with. That is the point I am trying to make. As far as whether or not the EVGA 7800 GTX is the single best video card on the market today, I must withhold judgement until I have had it longer, built with other comparable cards, listened to others comments, etc. But any high end gaming card is huge if you want to play games and see them in all the splendor some possess.
If you are not a gamer but want your system to double as a T.V. or some other operation then ATI all in wonder cards are solid performing cards that are well supported for such endeavors. They can do T.V. capture, video capture, and more because they come with the software to do these things along with the hardware out of the box.
c) Do NOT shoot the wad on the fastest CPU known to man. This is "fools money". If you spend the money on all the other things I mentioned first, you probably (unless independently wealthy) won't have much left anyway. A simple AMD 3000 or above will suffice at this level- trust me. If you have all these other parts, no software in existence game or otherwise will even dent the performance of this machine. The motherboard mentioned above supports the new X2 series of processors from AMD which have dual cores or two mini cpus on one dye so they are truly capable of multi-threading (running many program threads from the same program simultaneously rather than in a speculative order which takes longer). This will not benefit gamers today as no games truly make use of multi-threading in its true form, but will start in generations to come. It will make a huge difference if you like to run about 7 windows simultaneously as I do in the course of a business day. They each can open and close with the same lightning fast response that the first window launch did. (Or so I hear) as I did not opt to spend $800+ for this chip. The point here is that I have that major upgrade in my future once those chips drop in price substantially in months to come. If you start with such a mainboard the world is your oyster in terms of upgrades. If you start with a cheaper mainboard, not only are your upgrade options minimized, but you must often go through much pain, aggrivation, and possible data loss trying to upgrade later because the degree of upgrades is much more severe. Like replacing the whole mainboard for the new thing you want to do instead of dropping in a new chip. Then reloading windows because XP won't boot with your new config since it is looking for drivers to hardware that no longer exists in the new build. You can see the benefit to mapping out your upgrade path now instead of later...
D) High performance memory is nice, but in my experience less beneficial than having the sum of all the other parts first. If you still have money to burn after all of the above, then by all means purchase DUAL CHANNEL DDRAM which allows read/writes to function together at the memory level just as I explained can happen at the hard drive level with RAID arrays. This would be memory that comes in pairs and only two of the four RAM banks on the above mentioned board run with this benefit so please consider carefully how much RAM you want to start with. No sense buying two 256 MB chips of DUAL CHANNEL RAM today only to put them senselessly in the latter channel banks when you upgrade to two 512 MB DUAL CHANNEL DIMMS because you find out later that you need a GB or more of RAM for the games you want to run at high resolution.
E) Media drives: I.E. Plextor is best. After years of building machines with sony, philips, panasonic, lite-on, samsung, (the list goes on endlessly) I can tell you one thing - Plextor is best. They are such a solid performing drive that in years of building with them I have NEVER had one come back to the shop, NEVER had a customer complaint against them, and have NEVER been disappointed by their performance through the years. There are rare components by any given vendor I can say this about but Plextor is one.
F) Power Supplies: Though I mentioned these tips would be in order of importance this tip is the exception to the rule. Don't buy a Lamborghini and feed it cheap gas... Don't buy a high performance computer and expect it to run on a cheap no name power supply that claims to do 600 Watts. Power supply vendors are unregulated in many of their claims and many companies will rate their power supplies based on Peak power outputs they cannot sustain for any length of time. Kind of like saying your car can do 120 because you once went 120 M.P.H. on a downhill slope in hurricane with the wind at your back. I can honestly tell you that only a few companies rate their psus by TRUE power output and ANTEC is one of them. I purchased all the equipment mentioned at various points in this dissertation and tried to run it with a 550 Watt psu from the case manufacturer I chose (Thermaltake Xaser - just liked the way it looked, how large it was because I could liquid cool it, and loved the solid construction though you need to be a beefy dude to pack this thing to a LAN party cause it weighs close to 70 lbs without any hardware in it). Though Thermaltake is highly regarded in many cases, I can tell you that their manufacturer supplied psu at 550 Watts should have been more than enough for the hardware that I put in the case but the unit wouldn't even boot for me after I added the new stuff. So I purchased the Antec and paid a hefty tag for it. A 480 Watt rated unit by the way (70 Watts less than the supposedly 550 Watt rated psu and guess what) nothing but blue skies baby. The things runs like a champ. Another nice but unrequested feature that simply comes with a high end PSU like this one is that the power plugs are all modular, meaning you plug one end into the psu mounted in the case and the other end into your hard drives, cd drives, mainboard, etc. This allows you to only clutter the case with the necessary amount of power plugs saving on cooling requirements because you get better air flow and it looks cleaner if you purchase a see through side panel case.
G) Cases are like socks. Choose ones that fit the size of your foot (number of drives, cooling aspirations, etc) , feel good (fit your desk space without crushing a small pet if it should fall through your desk because it weighs 100 lbs configured), and look nice (see through, glow in the dark, black, white, two-tone etc). Just one tip here, cheap cases are usually very thin and hence very weak and easy to dent, tweak out of shape, etc. plus they often have sharp edges that cut the P.C. novice who is in their for the occasional upgrade and most often come with inferior power supplies that you will want to either toss in the trash upon receiving or sell at a yard sale.
H) Operating System- If you have been sold on the configuration above by now then you are looking seriously at a 64 bit capable platform. You can get a free 180 evaluation of Windows XP 64 Bit right now from Microsoft.com BUT beware of limited driver support at this point. With the above config, I tried to load it myself and found a host of problems with buggy drivers that claimed to be 64 bit or programs which I really liked that simply did Not like the new OS. Though you have the hardware to run it, you may want to wait until many of these issues are overcome by checking the sites of the vendors whose products you are most interested in using internally for your new build to see when they are out with truly stable 64 bit stuff and more programs have been 64 bit optimized. Though vendors like to claim backward compatibility in the real world it just isn't always so.
Anyway I hope this quick note become small novel helps to aid you and other P.C. enthusiasts in choosing hardware for a truly divine machine with a problem free life span.
M.R.
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