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I CAN'T BELIEVE IT: My Xbox Just RRODed!
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Senior Member
1 product review
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1. June 2008 @ 17:16 |
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Absolutly unbelievable: after 2 solid years, my xbox has RRODed. I'm not happy to say the least. Here is what happened.
Started up Enemy Territory QW, watched ths intro, and started a offline game. 3 minutes into it, the game freezes, so i restart, but freezes again on startup logo, then again on start up logo, then bam! RROD. WTF!?
I can't believe it happened. I'm not worried though, what is the BEST fail safe way to get fix this?- Xclamp? the Xceuter RROD fix? or others? (No towel tricks please.)
Thanks
******************************************
FIXed with X-Clamp Mod
Really good guide by Chris whitney:
http://rapidshare.com/files/120304321/UL...Manual.pdf.html
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 5. June 2008 @ 12:32
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Senior Member
13 product reviews
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1. June 2008 @ 19:18 |
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I've gone through 7 of them in the past 2 years! Uh... I guess you could do the XClamp, but I hear that only makes it work for a good 15min... But that's what I've heard! You could get the Xecuter Kit, cause from reading on their website, they've tried it on 10 systems, and they all work now!
You can always take it back to Wal-Mart...
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Member
2 product reviews
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1. June 2008 @ 20:12 |
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X Clamps is the Way to Go or Team Executer RROD kit
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AfterDawn Addict
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1. June 2008 @ 20:13 |
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New warranty sticker and send it in. That way it'll not only be fixed, but you'll get the new heatsinks (every little bit of extra cooling helps), hopefully the Opus mobo, and with any luck a new drive.
Well worth the cost of a sticker.
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Member
2 product reviews
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1. June 2008 @ 20:14 |
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But if He Wasnt Careful they can tell wheather its a new or old sticker
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Senior Member
1 product review
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1. June 2008 @ 21:42 |
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I still have a year left on the warranty so I'd just be paying $30 for sticker. BUT they will send me a refurb,I don't want this. And I really don't want to have to mess with new drive, as I have the ms28, which is a very good drive.
I have read the x-clamp method fixed a lot of xboxes and remain good for a long time. All of these "professional" RROD fixes on the net use the x-clamp method, and they charge $60+, I can do it my self for $5. ANyone did it how long ago? Problems?
I still have a whole year on warranty, so i'll just do the clamp fix for now and buy a sticker at the same time- they are not going to last long, only 1 guy from China selling these.
Also going to get a Talismoon whisper max fan. They power connectors use the 12v connector of the drive, is this safe? I don't want intercooler deal of blowing up my xbox.
All of this is the most unfortunate, but came at a good time, for I have a lot of free time. The way I see it, it was going to happen sooner or later...
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 1. June 2008 @ 21:47
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Senior Member
1 product review
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1. June 2008 @ 22:29 |
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sorry to double I fell it appropirate.
I went ahead and ordered a whisper max fan, but unsure now, because I read it's bad to steal power from drive. Can anyone with electrics knowledge comment on this?
I also ordered a complete RROD kit for $19 shipped complete with hardware and arctic 5, torx drivers. Good deal I think and saves me trip to Lowes and time. I can provide seller if others intrested.
I plan to have my xbox back and running again by end of this week. All this better make it last, i mean last, all those games dont' play themselves.
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Member
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1. June 2008 @ 23:02 |
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Just a heads up on when you fix it,make sure after you fix every thing, you overheat it.They say that that is the biggest reason why people's xbox rrod again after the fix, cause they don't do this.Look on llama's site for the RROD fix it goes into details about doing this method.I can tell you that it does work atleast I have had good luck so far.
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AfterDawn Addict
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1. June 2008 @ 23:18 |
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at the llamma site, one guy said he fried his drive due to incorrect installation.
LINK to reviews. the first on top.
i think you can directly replace the stock fans (deltas?) with the whisper max, without installing the nitro switch; the fan will always run on the standard 5v. after a little google search, the 12v nitro mode does indeed draw power from the drive.
if your board is compatable, you can solder in a 12v 3 pin fan header. LINK taken from the ultimate RROD thread
one forum mentioned not installing the led's if you're just doing a swap. since there's no led's to be powered, eventhough they draw little power, the whisper max will run slightly faster. but even if you do install the led's, they will push more air out than the stockies.
for added cooling, you should do the rbjtech fan shroud mod. basically, you seal off all outside air, allowing the fans to remove the air inside of the shroud only. i did it to our 360, and it's blowing out lots of warm air, like rbjtech mentioned. our 360 case is only warm under the drive now. everything else is cool to the touch.
ps2: v7 scph-39001 - independence exploit - hdloader 0.8c - maxtor 300gb hdd
(+[__]%) psp slim ta-085v1: 6.60 PRO B10
wii (powered by bootmii/priiloader): 4.1u - d2x v10beta53-alt (base 56) - configurable usb loader v70r51/devolution r188 - wd scorpio black 7200rpm 320gig w/ ams venus ds2 enclosure
got a whole lot more to list . . .
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 1. June 2008 @ 23:38
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Senior Member
1 product review
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3. June 2008 @ 12:58 |
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Well, after planning it out I decided to add on 5 additional fans to my console. 1 120mm fan, 1 80mm, and 3 60mm. All parts are under way. They will all be powered by an external power brick of 12v 5A. It's going to be crazy. I'll post up picks when everything is done.
but first got to fix this damned RROL. I never thought I'd say this, and contrary to my past beliefs, but everyone should add additional fans to their xboxes to delay the onset of RROL, it's only a matter of time.
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AfterDawn Addict
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3. June 2008 @ 14:48 |
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since you're going on the cooling mod craze, might i suggest ramsinks? LINK
those will fit perfectly over the ram, but not sure if it will clear the bottom 4 ram chips. also, you will need a bigger ramsinks for all other exposed chips, unless you order a few sets and use two or more at a time.
and do post pics of your setup.
ps2: v7 scph-39001 - independence exploit - hdloader 0.8c - maxtor 300gb hdd
(+[__]%) psp slim ta-085v1: 6.60 PRO B10
wii (powered by bootmii/priiloader): 4.1u - d2x v10beta53-alt (base 56) - configurable usb loader v70r51/devolution r188 - wd scorpio black 7200rpm 320gig w/ ams venus ds2 enclosure
got a whole lot more to list . . .
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 3. June 2008 @ 15:08
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rxpc
Junior Member
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3. June 2008 @ 17:18 |
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Wow, Damn! 5 fans! Your going to have to crank up the sound to hear
anything.
It shouldn't be getting that hot. Check out the cooling mods on the web. Mine rrod'd 3 times, towel trick the 1st time, worked for 1/2 hour, 2nd time prayed, worked for 2 hours!, 3rd time I did the x-clamp fix and the cooling mod, and now it's been running solid for 6 months.
Good luck dude!
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Senior Member
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3. June 2008 @ 17:55 |
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...........................:SiG cReAtEd By Phantom69:............................ |
AfterDawn Addict
1 product review
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3. June 2008 @ 18:26 |
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Seriously I'd just get a new 360 with a Falcon chip. I've seen too many X-clamp fixed 360s break again a couple months later or sooner.
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AfterDawn Addict
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3. June 2008 @ 18:31 |
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I'm thinking 5 fans are going to cause problems. You don't want anything blowing on to the board, so if you got everything blowing out, now you got to deal with restricted air intake.
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Senior Member
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3. June 2008 @ 19:12 |
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Originally posted by bhetrick:
I'm thinking 5 fans are going to cause problems. You don't want anything blowing on to the board, so if you got everything blowing out, now you got to deal with restricted air intake.
I would have to agree with bhetrick it will cause problems,but I do like the liquid cooling method which is used on computers.It cost some money to do the liquid cooling method,but well worth it I think considering this is the major problem the XBox 360 is having.I found a liquid cooling system made by Koolance here is the link http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/pr...?product_id=328 it costs alot,but this is just an idea of what it looks like.You could buy the XBox 360 Dual Cooler Kit,and something cheaper than the Exos-LT pump and cooler system.Its an awesome setup for cooling a system down,but does require some work as well.
...........................:SiG cReAtEd By Phantom69:............................
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Senior Member
1 product review
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3. June 2008 @ 21:56 |
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I got the 120mm fan doing intake with a mesh filter. Hopefully the filter will stop most/all of the dust. I got all the other fans doing outtake. And thanks for the ram heatsinks. Now I have to use thermal epoxy grease for this? Isn't there some sort of thermal adhesive pad or whatever?
Memnock, I think most of the RROD that comes up after the x-clamp mod is due to overheating/the problem in first place. If I cool it enough, nothing warps and everything is cold. Hopefully it will be a permanent fix.
From what I have read the x-clamp(bad design) is almost 90% the cause of all RROD.
Here is a quick scheme of the design: Still need to order the jack and switch. Mouser.com Mouser electronics is great for this sort of thing. BTW. Not sure if I can find everything at Radio Shack.
As you can see the 6A of power is overkill, but better to be over than under. This system is I'd say comparable to a watercooled system, of course there will be dust, but then I'm not spending $300 on this.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 3. June 2008 @ 22:02
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AfterDawn Addict
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3. June 2008 @ 22:03 |
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Ah yea, Mouser is good. I order all my parts to build xim's from them.
Do you plan on mounting the fans on the outside of the case, or the inside? Because if you plan on inside, I'm pretty sure you'll have clearance issues with that 120mm and the heatsink.
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AfterDawn Addict
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3. June 2008 @ 22:14 |
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the thermaltake ramsinks have 3M thermal tape on it already; just peel and stick. works great. if you want, you can remove the thermal tape and switch it to something else, like AS ceramique.
if you had a falcon motherboard, where you have your 120mm intake fan is where the third heatsink (via heatpipe) would be.
after looking at your planned setup, the fanshroud mod will benfit much more. the 120mm intake fan will allow cooler air to flow through the gpu and cpu heatsinks. and with the fanshroud mod sealing off all outside air, there will be a nice, constant airflow circulating.
ps2: v7 scph-39001 - independence exploit - hdloader 0.8c - maxtor 300gb hdd
(+[__]%) psp slim ta-085v1: 6.60 PRO B10
wii (powered by bootmii/priiloader): 4.1u - d2x v10beta53-alt (base 56) - configurable usb loader v70r51/devolution r188 - wd scorpio black 7200rpm 320gig w/ ams venus ds2 enclosure
got a whole lot more to list . . .
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Senior Member
1 product review
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3. June 2008 @ 22:41 |
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Yeah, not too happy about the flat $7 shipping at Mouser though. I plan to add all fans on outside. All fans are size variations of this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835119032 It's the best looking one for outside mount I think. My will have LEDs, not into that, will remove.
I just realized, you only need 2 ram sinks, because the 4 on the bottom side mobo, you can't fit sinks in there, and 2 accessible ram on top board- sinks on those.
have heard of shroud mod, but can you elaborate?
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AfterDawn Addict
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3. June 2008 @ 23:00 |
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i was wondering about the bottom four ram chips. i think if you cut the ramsinks, they should fit, but that would be too much work.
rbjtech explains it the best. LINK
basically, sealing off all outside air, and separating the gpu and cpu airflow will increase the pressure inside the fanshroud. with more pressure inside the fanshroud, the exhaust fans can pull air more efficiently over the heatsinks, because air is now being forced over the heatsinks.
with the addition of the 120mm intake fan, the heatsinks, mostly cpu, will get fresh air flowing through. and with the talismoon fan upgrade, the suction inside the fanshroud will be greater.
ps2: v7 scph-39001 - independence exploit - hdloader 0.8c - maxtor 300gb hdd
(+[__]%) psp slim ta-085v1: 6.60 PRO B10
wii (powered by bootmii/priiloader): 4.1u - d2x v10beta53-alt (base 56) - configurable usb loader v70r51/devolution r188 - wd scorpio black 7200rpm 320gig w/ ams venus ds2 enclosure
got a whole lot more to list . . .
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 3. June 2008 @ 23:19
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Senior Member
1 product review
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5. June 2008 @ 03:19 |
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It's AALLLIIIIVVVEEE!!
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AfterDawn Addict
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5. June 2008 @ 04:41 |
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awesome. hopefully, it'll last.
one thing i thought of: how about lapping the cpu/gpu heatsinks?
ps2: v7 scph-39001 - independence exploit - hdloader 0.8c - maxtor 300gb hdd
(+[__]%) psp slim ta-085v1: 6.60 PRO B10
wii (powered by bootmii/priiloader): 4.1u - d2x v10beta53-alt (base 56) - configurable usb loader v70r51/devolution r188 - wd scorpio black 7200rpm 320gig w/ ams venus ds2 enclosure
got a whole lot more to list . . .
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Senior Member
1 product review
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5. June 2008 @ 11:52 |
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Lapping you mean buffing to mirror finish?
I paid for this guide (came with screw set) Now it's free for you. really nice RROD Fix guide with a crap load of pics:
Courtsey of Christopher Whitney:
http://rapidshare.com/files/120304321/UL...Manual.pdf.html
Well, I fixed my xbox RROD, hopfully for good, in 4 hours. It was heckteck 4 hours. My biggets advice is don't rush, or you will do something stupid like scratch the motherboard or worse, break off a capacitor...
The main thing that got me was taking off those damned x-clamps. It took me 45mins just to take them all off. I used a small screwdriver to pry it. But the prying motion was all wrong. You need to use something wider and twist it. I used an awl fixed to my swiss army knife horizontally. Simple twist and bam it's off fast. This part is dangous, I'm greatful for not smashing up the mobo or scratching it up.
Cleaning up the thermal grease took an hour and more. The people that assembled the xbox didnt' understand the purpose of the thermal grease, it's to act as a very very thin layer of medium to fill up the microscopic unsmoothness of teh serface of cpu and heatsink, it's not an adhesive that's to be applied like a fat man squirting ketchup on his hot dog. There was a crap load of thermal grease, so much that it oozed off to the side and covered up all the little resistors. And it was so thick too, which is defeating the whole purpose of the grease. The thinner the layer the better. Bascailly the thermal grease division of the assembly plant cost M$ the $10M extended waranty. They are so stupid.
Also as per www.arcticsilver.com instruction on prepping and applying the grease: Never use oil or petroluem based cleaner (included citrus oil based degreaser) to clean the cpu and or heatsink. The oil is not designed to evaporate and will stick in microscopic grooves of the metal and hinder heat spread.
Source: www.arcticsilver.com
And damn the 12V Talismoon moves a lot of air!
More to come.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 5. June 2008 @ 12:30
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Member
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5. June 2008 @ 12:03 |
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I've opened up a box two boxes that had such an absurd amount of thermal gel that I wanted to call Microsoft up and yell at them
One was actually someones horrible X-clamp fix, and another was original.
It was horrible, like someone had gray diarrhea all over the GPU
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