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How I fix RRoD 360s (video)
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Senior Member
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28. February 2010 @ 16:32 |
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Originally posted by BoRGoUSh:
okay okay, Iīve learned from my mistake :D So what to do next...? Should I unmount the coolers again and try the whole heatgun fix with GPU, CPU, HANA and RAMs again?
If youīd like I can take a pic of capacitators, Iīm not sure if theyīre blown or not... But they looked like this also when I got the 0102... would the damage status change when capacitators would be damaged? Or did I fix some stuff on the board and now the 0022 are the capacitators problem?
edit: I have to tell you I heated the bottom side of the board by 350C before heating the RAMs...
Yea might as well show us a pic...if they're bulging or leaking they're blown. I cant say for sure which error message it will give you though since I've never popped any of them. 0022 is a short so it's not looking good http://xbox-experts.com/errorcode/E10/0022/ You may as well try heat gunning again exactly like in the video
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 28. February 2010 @ 16:33
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BoRGoUSh
Newbie
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28. February 2010 @ 16:46 |
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Yup Iīve seen this hyperlink while I was googling the 0022 fault... I hoped I wonīt have to do the heatgun fix again :D Well but why not, Iīve already lost all hopes repairing the board yesterday :D One more try doesnīt mind at all...
But tell ya what... When I turn the xbox on, the green light shines in the middle for approx. 40 seconds, then there appears the 0022... I have edited my last post and put the picture there... could u take a look?
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Senior Member
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28. February 2010 @ 19:35 |
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It's kinda hard to tell from the picture but it looks like they're leaking the electrolyte from the bottom on the ones you circled. The big one in between those looks like it may be bulging on the sides and on top too. It's possible they're not, like i said it's kinda hard to see from the pic. If they're not it seems likely that the short is underneath one (or several) of the chips and really not much can be done (cost efficiently).
On the bright side, now that you have a heatgun you can go onto sites like craigslist and get a rrod system for like $20-40 and repair them the proper way...definitely a lot cheaper than buying a new one. That's what I did when my previous systems were banned :)
Can I ask why you heated only one area? I mean I know you knew it may be a ram issue but as I mentioned in my first post I've fixed ram issues (0110) doing it exactly how I did in the vid.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 28. February 2010 @ 21:13
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BoRGoUSh
Newbie
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28. February 2010 @ 20:15 |
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Well I didnt read through this whole thread backwards and I thought that heating the rams for a while will do the trick... I thought that the other components are being heated just to be sure other problem will not come...
Yup I found some other xboxes, those are pretty cheap and have those errors, so Im gonna buy few of em and test my experiences again...
Itīs a pity that I did the heatgun fix properly the first time and screwed it for the second time... But faults make man smarter :D
Could I ask you whatīs the approximate height you are using the heatgun from the top of the board? Maybe the last few times Iīve had it pretty close to the board (about 2 inches)
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Senior Member
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28. February 2010 @ 20:56 |
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I mentioned about a fist length away from the board in the video but the heat gun was on so you might not have heard, but about 3-3.5 inches and constantly keeping it moving! :) Now that you've got the trial and error part out of the way, hopefully the next one will work out better for you =P
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ddp
Moderator
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28. February 2010 @ 22:58 |
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the caps look alright except maybe the fat 1 closer to us as can't tell if top is bulging or not. might be leaking on top but i don't see the seams of the top of that can so can't tell for certain. the black plastic skin of those capacitors is for printing purposes.
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AfterDawn Addict
3 product reviews
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1. March 2010 @ 12:24 |
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My first few heatgun fixes were trial and error (unfortunetly w00ly wasnt around then), some of them had caps looking just like yours and would work. Depending on how good your soldering skills are, can you not just replace the cap's in question?
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BoRGoUSh
Newbie
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1. March 2010 @ 13:01 |
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Yea well I guess Iīve melted the GPU too hard so I messed up the solders. The fifth reflowing Iīve made was pretty close to the GPU, approx. 1 inch from the GPU, so this will be the problem, but another xbox 360 is on its way...
Well at least I have to tell you that the first reflowing Iīve made was succesful... Perhaps I was too unpatient :D
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AfterDawn Addict
3 product reviews
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2. March 2010 @ 04:59 |
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Originally posted by BoRGoUSh:
Yea well I guess Iīve melted the GPU too hard so I messed up the solders. The fifth reflowing Iīve made was pretty close to the GPU, approx. 1 inch from the GPU, so this will be the problem, but another xbox 360 is on its way...
Well at least I have to tell you that the first reflowing Iīve made was succesful... Perhaps I was too unpatient :D
Ah, well. Its happened to me too, so your not alone. Good luck with your next xbox.
To get instant assistance with Flashing / JTAG / Homebrew from experts for free! click me (Im not one of the said experts BTW)
Make poverty history, cheaper drugs NOW!
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dalecore
Member
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3. March 2010 @ 16:17 |
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My first attempt at heat gun fix was not as successful as I thought. Everything seemed to be running fine after using the heat gun method but I didn't have a working drive at the time so I could only play the 2d games available on the Xbox. Today I got a drive, did the spoof ,and everything seemed to be working but not even a minute into gameplay it froze. After attempting to reset it a couple of times I got hit with the 3 rings again. I've already attempted to make sure everything is set in correctly, and I also made sure there was enough thermal paste also but still no luck. At this point I really don't know what to do. Is it being stubborn or have I cooked the GPU?
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dalecore
Member
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4. March 2010 @ 12:08 |
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I did another heat gun yesterday and it was working fine didn't really get a chance to test it. I tried to play it again today and it's still freezing I guess I'm flexing the board but I don't understand how. The first person who did the fix to this machine did not use nylon washers instead he used this thick rubberband type of thing that fits around the screws which keeps them attached to the board. I'm starting to think they may be the culprit because I've exhausted the heat gun this is like my third time doing it to that board. I'll try the nylon washers and see what happens.
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shmirk
Junior Member
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17. March 2010 @ 18:33 |
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ok so i have blown a couple of capacitors when heatgunning tonight!
I have a soldering iron and could prob have a go at putting new ones in, but what kind do i need and where on earth would i get them?
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Senior Member
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17. March 2010 @ 19:30 |
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Can you tell us exactly what you did and if you differed any from the video?
As far as replacing them, if you're good with a soldering iron it shouldn't be *too* hard. The capacitance and voltage is written directly on them, so someone correct me if I'm wrong but you should be able to swap them out for ones of the same ratings. Best bet for finding them would be either radio shack or online.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 17. March 2010 @ 21:49
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ddp
Moderator
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17. March 2010 @ 21:32 |
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can use higher voltage caps if can't find same voltage caps as blown caps. the caps have to go in the same orientation as old caps or they'll blow or do more damage.
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bklyn1028
Member
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22. March 2010 @ 13:29 |
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I am at my wit's end. I got the "3" rings a month or so ago. I tried every which way but loose to fix this thing. I took out the M/b, tried the x-clamp fix, screwed it back in through the bottom of the case, and re-seated the heatsinks from the bottom of the m/b without the case. I re-seated them about 12 times, and then I re-flowed with a heat gun. Finally I got only "1" red light lower right corner, and the tv said "error 73". So, i put q-tips through the back like all the youtubes said, and after a few minutes I got 2 red lights on the left side. I shut it off for an hour, turned it back on, and the 1 red light came back on. I don't know what else to do.
Anyone have a suggestion?
garlic and olive oil.....makes a person sound...maybe a little mayo too...forget the mayo...had a stint put in.....
EVGA 680i....Intel E6600......2 hitachi 120GB sata...striped nvidia raid 0..2 GB Corsair DDR2 1066...NZXT Lexa case....EVGA 8800GTX ...NEC 3550 dvdrw, Toshiba dvd rombof DEll 2405fpw
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dacore84
Junior Member
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22. March 2010 @ 16:59 |
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Hey guys. Did a reflow yesterday and it actually removed the RROD. Seems to boot properly. Since itīs JTAG compatible I havenīt tried any games. Donīt want the dash to update by mistake before the JTAG is done.
But my question is:
After I did the reflow a few of the resistors(?) became a bit brown/burned on one of the sides. If you check BoRGoUSh picture on the previous page I believe they looked like "R2E2" and "R2E3" (in the lower center part of the picture) and so on (it doesnīt have to be exactly those but similar ones).
Does that mather if itīs booting correctly? Should it be fine anyway? I followed the guide 100% and did 1 min on the bottom (400C) and 4 min on the top (about 550C).
Thanks for an excellent guide and sorry for bad English.
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Senior Member
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22. March 2010 @ 18:49 |
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Originally posted by bklyn1028:
I am at my wit's end. I got the "3" rings a month or so ago. I tried every which way but loose to fix this thing. I took out the M/b, tried the x-clamp fix, screwed it back in through the bottom of the case, and re-seated the heatsinks from the bottom of the m/b without the case. I re-seated them about 12 times, and then I re-flowed with a heat gun. Finally I got only "1" red light lower right corner, and the tv said "error 73". So, i put q-tips through the back like all the youtubes said, and after a few minutes I got 2 red lights on the left side. I shut it off for an hour, turned it back on, and the 1 red light came back on. I don't know what else to do.
Anyone have a suggestion?
e73 is basically the same thing as e74 and other 3 red errors: broken solder caused by flexing. Try doing the x-clamp and heatgun method exactly as I've described (1 washer if you havent drilled the case or 3 if you have). Certainly dont force the fans to stop and overheat the system though...Originally posted by dacore84:
Hey guys. Did a reflow yesterday and it actually removed the RROD. Seems to boot properly. Since itīs JTAG compatible I havenīt tried any games. Donīt want the dash to update by mistake before the JTAG is done.
But my question is:
After I did the reflow a few of the resistors(?) became a bit brown/burned on one of the sides. If you check BoRGoUSh picture on the previous page I believe they looked like "R2E2" and "R2E3" (in the lower center part of the picture) and so on (it doesnīt have to be exactly those but similar ones).
Does that mather if itīs booting correctly? Should it be fine anyway? I followed the guide 100% and did 1 min on the bottom (400C) and 4 min on the top (about 550C).
Thanks for an excellent guide and sorry for bad English.
You're talking about some of the solder turning from shiny to brown-ish? If so that should be ok and is actually a good sign that you've melted the solder and the reflow should be successful (and in your case it appears to be :) They dont all have to necessarily be brown though some get shinier, some get a brown tint
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 22. March 2010 @ 18:50
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ddp
Moderator
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22. March 2010 @ 20:23 |
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w00ly, i think he is talking about the resistors themselves not the solder joints.
dacore, as long as not burned black then should be alright.
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bklyn1028
Member
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23. March 2010 @ 08:25 |
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Originally posted by w00ly:
Originally posted by bklyn1028:
I am at my wit's end. I got the "3" rings a month or so ago. I tried every which way but loose to fix this thing. I took out the M/b, tried the x-clamp fix, screwed it back in through the bottom of the case, and re-seated the heatsinks from the bottom of the m/b without the case. I re-seated them about 12 times, and then I re-flowed with a heat gun. Finally I got only "1" red light lower right corner, and the tv said "error 73". So, i put q-tips through the back like all the youtubes said, and after a few minutes I got 2 red lights on the left side. I shut it off for an hour, turned it back on, and the 1 red light came back on. I don't know what else to do.
Anyone have a suggestion?
e73 is basically the same thing as e74 and other 3 red errors: broken solder caused by flexing. Try doing the x-clamp and heatgun method exactly as I've described (1 washer if you havent drilled the case or 3 if you have). Certainly dont force the fans to stop and overheat the system though...Originally posted by dacore84:
Hey guys. Did a reflow yesterday and it actually removed the RROD. Seems to boot properly. Since itīs JTAG compatible I havenīt tried any games. Donīt want the dash to update by mistake before the JTAG is done.
But my question is:
After I did the reflow a few of the resistors(?) became a bit brown/burned on one of the sides. If you check BoRGoUSh picture on the previous page I believe they looked like "R2E2" and "R2E3" (in the lower center part of the picture) and so on (it doesnīt have to be exactly those but similar ones).
Does that mather if itīs booting correctly? Should it be fine anyway? I followed the guide 100% and did 1 min on the bottom (400C) and 4 min on the top (about 550C).
Thanks for an excellent guide and sorry for bad English.
You're talking about some of the solder turning from shiny to brown-ish? If so that should be ok and is actually a good sign that you've melted the solder and the reflow should be successful (and in your case it appears to be :) They dont all have to necessarily be brown though some get shinier, some get a brown tint
So, use the heat gun again?
garlic and olive oil.....makes a person sound...maybe a little mayo too...forget the mayo...had a stint put in.....
EVGA 680i....Intel E6600......2 hitachi 120GB sata...striped nvidia raid 0..2 GB Corsair DDR2 1066...NZXT Lexa case....EVGA 8800GTX ...NEC 3550 dvdrw, Toshiba dvd rombof DEll 2405fpw
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Senior Member
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23. March 2010 @ 12:40 |
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yes try doing the heatgun again following only my guide and no other for both the heatgunning and x-clamp.
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ataroreh
Newbie
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23. March 2010 @ 16:01 |
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what is the best permanent E74 fix methods out theres?if there are any, if not any suggestions?
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dacore84
Junior Member
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24. March 2010 @ 14:07 |
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Originally posted by w00ly:
Originally posted by dacore84:
Hey guys. Did a reflow yesterday and it actually removed the RROD. Seems to boot properly. Since itīs JTAG compatible I havenīt tried any games. Donīt want the dash to update by mistake before the JTAG is done.
But my question is:
After I did the reflow a few of the resistors(?) became a bit brown/burned on one of the sides. If you check BoRGoUSh picture on the previous page I believe they looked like "R2E2" and "R2E3" (in the lower center part of the picture) and so on (it doesnīt have to be exactly those but similar ones).
Does that mather if itīs booting correctly? Should it be fine anyway? I followed the guide 100% and did 1 min on the bottom (400C) and 4 min on the top (about 550C).
Thanks for an excellent guide and sorry for bad English.
You're talking about some of the solder turning from shiny to brown-ish? If so that should be ok and is actually a good sign that you've melted the solder and the reflow should be successful (and in your case it appears to be :) They dont all have to necessarily be brown though some get shinier, some get a brown tint
Originally posted by ddp:
w00ly, i think he is talking about the resistors themselves not the solder joints.
dacore, as long as not burned black then should be alright.
Thank you both very much!
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bklyn1028
Member
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24. March 2010 @ 14:50 |
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Originally posted by w00ly:
yes try doing the heatgun again following only my guide and no other for both the heatgunning and x-clamp.
Wolly,
when i did the heat gun the first time, your guide was playing, and i mimicked you to the letter for the exact same time your video was on.
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Senior Member
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24. March 2010 @ 15:00 |
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Originally posted by bklyn1028:
Originally posted by w00ly:
yes try doing the heatgun again following only my guide and no other for both the heatgunning and x-clamp.
Wolly,
when i did the heat gun the first time, your guide was playing, and i mimicked you to the letter for the exact same time your video was on.
putting q-tips in the fans wasnt in my video.
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Senior Member
3 product reviews
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24. March 2010 @ 16:17 |
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LOL, i've got nothing useful to add but there's no way i can just read that and not say anything.
Actually,
I had a reflow last night using kester 951 flux, i was kind of weary because i bought the complete wrong flux when i bought my reflow machine a few months ago. I bought a couple bottles of acid core flux which supposedly eats motherboards and i've used it twice on consoles that have reoccuring issues. Using this acid core flux somehow bridges the bga under the chip you reflow (so i've destroyed 2 360's using it). Anyway I did some research and bought a gallon of this kester 951 flux and wow the smell lingers with you after you reflow with it. It kind of smells like nail polish remover. I went to go see my father in the hospital and could still smell it on my clothes (but i'm sure i didn't get any on me).
Anyway that xbox is back up and running strong, i don't know if i should call it good and slap my warranty sticker on it (i've had 2 returned to me for warranty where the xclamp replacement was taken off and put back together incorrectly so i bought my own warranty stickers) or do the 12v fan mod so i know it will stay cool. It's a xenon board so you know that sucker gets red hot.
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