Hi there everyone, thanks in advance for any replies I may get to this problem.
I will summarise my problem here. Out of about 15 games I have tried to run on this xbox 360 only one will work and that is temperamental at best. Some of them say the disc is unreadable, some give an error code and some will take you to the loading screen and then crash. I have just tried this after half an hour of ghost recon and the problem is worse after the console has been on. It wont load up ghost recon now, but probably will if i leave the console to cool down for a little while.
This was the first xbox I had tinkered with but surprisingly I successfully flashed the drive for another unit and got the console to work with an old (and scratched) copy of FIFA. There may be an issue here as I did not realise the benefits of just replacing the drive like for like and soldering the controller board into a new unit. So I inadvertently bought a hitachi model and flashed that. It was working so I left it.
Then I added some mods, mostly for cosmetic reasons, such as the XCM fan mods and a replacement exhaust fan, the whisperer thing with turbo switch and all that fancy stuff.
There are currently 26 leds in the thing. 6 in each XCM fan, 8 on the exhaust fan and 6 that I have custom wired into the power chain. All of these are running from the dvd drive power source but they all power up quite nicely.
However that is quite a lot of additional amperage being drawn.
My question is, if the problem is the dvd drive why is it not a permanent issue. I.e. every disc I put in should come up with an error, not 99% of them and only from a hot start.
Has anyone else had a drive problem because of an excess current draw from that whimpering brick the xbox comes with.
I am considering 2 approaches here. Customising a pc power supply to supply enough power to the xbox. Or trying to track down an exact replacement dvd drive.
This is going to form part of an xmas present for my nieces and nephews and I am running out of time and money to keep throwing parts at this project so if anyone here with more knowledge could offer some insight I would be most grateful.
Incidentally the thing looks rather cool as it is right now, if you go for that sort of thing. Some more functionality would be nice.
Additional details can be posted if required.
Thanks in advance
Beep
I am not sure if the power supply for the drive would be a problem, but that sounds more like a laser issue, like the laser is on it's way out. If you're very lucky a game starts, but normally they come up with the errors mentioned. Do you know what the original drive was or still have that drive?
Also your Xbox 360 doesn't seem to be on the latest dashboard, what you did with the Hitachi drive is called spoofing, and that is not possible anymore if the console is up to date.
Xbox 360: Slim untouched with a faked 320 GB harddrive for XBL, phat with LT 3.0, played Halo early, so going on live would be an instand ban, also with a faked 320 GB harddrive
PS3: Untouched 160 GB Slim, 60 GB Fat with latest Rogero and 160 GB internal harddrive.
PSVita: hardly ever play it
GameCube: Black with a Viper chip installed. With gameboy player. Trying to get a Wavebird controller.
Originally posted by Eisherz: I am not sure if the power supply for the drive would be a problem, but that sounds more like a laser issue, like the laser is on it's way out. If you're very lucky a game starts, but normally they come up with the errors mentioned. Do you know what the original drive was or still have that drive?
Also your Xbox 360 doesn't seem to be on the latest dashboard, what you did with the Hitachi drive is called spoofing, and that is not possible anymore if the console is up to date.
I would of said the same as there should be no concern with power if wired correctly.I believe it was pretty much pointless running mods when nearer enough certain anything that points to open tray/disc unrecognised/play dvd errors are a laser issue and not a overheating/mod issue.A simple pot tweak or laser replacement was all that was needed.It also looks like it was key spoofed as not even fifa would play with modded firmware.Chances are its either a 32-59 drive with no AP 2.5....@ OP try a pot tweak with a multimeter first,followed by a laser replacement.
Thanks for the replies and sorry it took a while. It was the drive that was causing problems. I managed to get an exact replacement unit and swapped the circuit board over. Seems to work fine now.
