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The Official OC (OverClocking) Thread!
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NO Fanboy comments needed
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AfterDawn Addict
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3. July 2007 @ 08:10 |
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Ace_2,
It's going to crash at a lower speed under 100% load compared to what you were getting before.
Need to know some more info please...
What is/were:
Load % (Orthos running is 100%)=
Core Temps (CoreTemp)=
Vcore voltage setting (The setting made in bios)=
From CPU-Z
CPU Tab- CPU clocks:
Core Speed=
Multipier=
Buss Speed=
Rated FSB=
Memory Tab-
Memory Frequency=
FSB:DRAM=
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AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
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3. July 2007 @ 08:23 |
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Binning the raidmax PSU could probably earn you a lot more mhz for a start...
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Ace_2
Senior Member
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3. July 2007 @ 10:04 |
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@sammorris: And how exactly do I do that?
@fasfrank: Dude, I can't even get into Windows. When I overclock too high, when the computer restarts, the power light turns off and the computer becomes irresponsive.
My console collection: Version 14A PlayStation 2(chipped), Version 7 PlayStation 2, PlayStation(both models), Wii, Gamecube, N64, Super NES(original from US and Japan and Mini), NES(front and top loader)Model 1 & 2 Genesis, Sega CD, Sega 32X, Atari 2600, Sega Saturn, Sega Dreamcast, Sega Master System(Model 1 and 2), Atari Flashback 1 & 2, FC Twin(2 in 1 NES/Super NES clone), GN Twin(2 in 1 NES/Genesis clone), Atari 7800, Intellivision II, TurboGrafx 16, GameBoy Color
My guides: Cardboard and Straw MOD: http://forums.afterdawn.com/thread_view.cfm/308926
3-method exploit for PS2s: http://forums.afterdawn.com/thread_view.cfm/337567 |
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rvinkebob
Member
3 product reviews
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3. July 2007 @ 10:14 |
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Quote:
"It's 28C in here and it idles at 30C and the fan is at 1100rpm and it's OC'd from 1.8GHz to 3.276GHz!"
Well the fan RPM for me is absolutely nuts. My fan runs on average at 4500RPM and still can't cool it down enough and even vibrates the damn table it sits on! So it's really going to be a relief for it to be that cooled down and quiet. I really like th PWM feature as well cause I use ASUS PC Probe to monitor core temperatures and fan speed.
Going to pick up in 1hr. I'll shut down now and take out the fan. And I remember exactly how as my PC is custom built so I should hopefully not screw anything up.
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AfterDawn Addict
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3. July 2007 @ 11:48 |
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ace_2,
I understand that, but you should have gotten to a successful overclock setting 5 Mhz below the settings that failed.
Edit
Binning means throwing out your current power supply and getting a new one.
I just want to see some numbers from whatever overclock speed you can get to run correctly. I can't tell if you are going from your stock settings directly to a speed that's too high. There should be a speed in between that will run and stress test correctly.
Here's the sort of thing I have going when I test my OCs:
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 3. July 2007 @ 12:15
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rvinkebob
Member
3 product reviews
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3. July 2007 @ 11:52 |
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I got it! Working perfectly at 34C and 1800RPM!!! I went from 2800 all the way to 3800 and DAMN is it fast! It all reports perfectly in ASUS PC Probe and all my apps are blazing fast! In AMD speed I went from 1.80GHz to 2.44GHz and I could still increase at the temperature I'm at. I decided not to get the GFX card cooler seeing as I don't mind going any higher then 500MHz at the moment.
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AfterDawn Addict
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3. July 2007 @ 12:42 |
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ace_2,
Quote:
@sammorris: And how exactly do I do that?
That's a British expression for throwing it in the trash, and I agree. Some of the C2Ds have problems caused by poorly made Power Supplies and don't take kindly to poor voltage control. The PS I had that was made by Powmax, was what helped ruin my P5P800-SE motherboard on my D-940. My overclocking it to 3.94GHz didn't help either! When I built my C2D, I bought a Thermaltake Tr-2 500 watt PS. That 450W ATX Alpha Raidmax you have is only capable of a little over 300 watts under load according to it's specs before it packs it's tent and lets you down. While something like my Thermaltake has better efficiency. The biggest thing you will notice is that the Thermaltake weighs about twice as much!
Consider the PS as the foundation of your build! I just discovered that my PS is on sale from Newegg for $79.99 with a mail in rebate it comes to $49.99, which is a great price! It's the baby brother to sammorris's Toughpower 750 watt with the same design but only 500 watts. Very quiet too!
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817153028
You will discover over time that the quality of your build is directly related to the quality of the components you put into it. Your choice in MB, PS and memory is everything to good overclocking. You don't have to buy the most expensive components, just good high quality ones which can be found at reasonable prices. I lucked out with this build as I bought the MB on sale from ChiefValue for $99, G.Skill PC6400 2x1GB cas4 memory for $129 and the Thermaltake PS for $46. At the time, I saved about $90 over retail. The same components are even cheaper now!
The moral to this story is buy the best high quality components you can afford when overclocking. You will spend far less money in the long run!
Clock On,
theone :}
GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor
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crowy
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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3. July 2007 @ 15:39 |
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Ace_2,
Yes a bios revision can certainly make a difference.
And if your psu is really only good for 300w as theone said,I'm sure(as I said at the beginning)your psu is letting you down.
No system will o/clock well with a sub standard psu.
If the facts dont fit the theory, change the facts." -- Albert Einstein This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 3. July 2007 @ 21:37
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crowy
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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3. July 2007 @ 17:36 |
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Ace_2,
After looking at the Asus website,it appears your board doesn't have "official" support for your cpu.
http://support.asus.com.tw/cpusupport/cpusupport.aspx
Your bios is 3 months old,the newest one is here(which say's supports new cpu):
http://support.asus.com.tw/download/download.aspx?SLanguage=en-us
Don't be afraid of flashing your bios.If you do it correctly you will see how easy it is.Once flashing starts it only takes a few seconds.
Just make sure before you decide to do it you reset everything in your bios to defaults.
Try the newest bios and see how you go.
If your current problem is still there at least you have eliminated the bios as being the problem.
To see approximately what your system needs as far as wattage goes have a look here:
http://www.extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp
Fill in the details as accurately as you can,see what the result is and let us know.
If the facts dont fit the theory, change the facts." -- Albert Einstein
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Ace_2
Senior Member
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3. July 2007 @ 17:39 |
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First explain to me how to get the shots of the windows, then I'll overclock again to my limit before the power light turns off when the computer restarts itself after exiting the BIOS setup.
My console collection: Version 14A PlayStation 2(chipped), Version 7 PlayStation 2, PlayStation(both models), Wii, Gamecube, N64, Super NES(original from US and Japan and Mini), NES(front and top loader)Model 1 & 2 Genesis, Sega CD, Sega 32X, Atari 2600, Sega Saturn, Sega Dreamcast, Sega Master System(Model 1 and 2), Atari Flashback 1 & 2, FC Twin(2 in 1 NES/Super NES clone), GN Twin(2 in 1 NES/Genesis clone), Atari 7800, Intellivision II, TurboGrafx 16, GameBoy Color
My guides: Cardboard and Straw MOD: http://forums.afterdawn.com/thread_view.cfm/308926
3-method exploit for PS2s: http://forums.afterdawn.com/thread_view.cfm/337567 |
AfterDawn Addict
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3. July 2007 @ 18:05 |
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I take screenshots with a capture program, I use Gadwin Printscreen. Once I capture it, I FTP it to my website and then link to it.
Crowy is using ImageShack which will let you host your pictures there.
http://imageshack.us/
There are lots of screen capture programs. I've always used Gadwin just because it's easy and free.
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crowy
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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3. July 2007 @ 18:08 |
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Ace_2,
Go here:
http://www.etrusoft.com/
and download quick screen capture(there are others but this is the one I use).
Run the application.
Click on capture then hold down your left mouse button and drag around the screen area you want to capture then left click again.
Name the file and save it to wherever you want(I just save to desktop).
Then go here:
http://imageshack.us/
Click on browse,go to your desktop(if thats where you saved the image) and click on the image you want to upload.Then click "host it".
Now copy where it says direct link to image.
Go to the reply box here at AD.
Right click in the reply box and click paste.
At the beginning of the link you just pasted put this [img] then at the end of the link put this [/img]
Then we should all see a picture.
If the facts dont fit the theory, change the facts." -- Albert Einstein
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crowy
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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3. July 2007 @ 18:12 |
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Originally posted by fasfrank:
I take screenshots with a capture program, I use Gadwin Printscreen. Once I capture it, I FTP it to my website and then link to it.
Crowy is using ImageShack which will let you host your pictures there.
http://imageshack.us/
There are lots of screen capture programs. I've always used Gadwin just because it's easy and free.
LOL!! Was typing at the same time!!
If the facts dont fit the theory, change the facts." -- Albert Einstein
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AfterDawn Addict
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3. July 2007 @ 18:32 |
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Ace_2,
Quote:
Now copy where it says direct link to image.
Go to the reply box here at AD.
Right click in the reply box and click paste.
At the beginning of the link you just pasted put this [img] then at the end of the link put this [/img]
You can also just use the link for forums, just left click your mouse to highlight it and copy the URL using the right click and select copy. Use Control v to put it on the forum. I save them to Notepad if I have more than 1 and just minimize it to the taskbar. Be sure to change the IMG, in caps at both ends to lower case img otherwise it won't work. BTW I use Screen Grabber Pro, also free!
Clock On,
theone :}
GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor
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AfterDawn Addict
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3. July 2007 @ 19:14 |
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crowy
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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3. July 2007 @ 19:41 |
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fasfrank,
I just learned something!!
Thanks for that:)
If the facts dont fit the theory, change the facts." -- Albert Einstein
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Ace_2
Senior Member
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3. July 2007 @ 20:09 |
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Uh-oh, that doesn't sound very good! I think I might need to up to an E6600 if I can't properly overclock because of that, unless I wait for a new BIOS that supports the E6420.
My console collection: Version 14A PlayStation 2(chipped), Version 7 PlayStation 2, PlayStation(both models), Wii, Gamecube, N64, Super NES(original from US and Japan and Mini), NES(front and top loader)Model 1 & 2 Genesis, Sega CD, Sega 32X, Atari 2600, Sega Saturn, Sega Dreamcast, Sega Master System(Model 1 and 2), Atari Flashback 1 & 2, FC Twin(2 in 1 NES/Super NES clone), GN Twin(2 in 1 NES/Genesis clone), Atari 7800, Intellivision II, TurboGrafx 16, GameBoy Color
My guides: Cardboard and Straw MOD: http://forums.afterdawn.com/thread_view.cfm/308926
3-method exploit for PS2s: http://forums.afterdawn.com/thread_view.cfm/337567 |
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Ace_2
Senior Member
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3. July 2007 @ 20:09 |
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Whoops! My internet is slow today.
My console collection: Version 14A PlayStation 2(chipped), Version 7 PlayStation 2, PlayStation(both models), Wii, Gamecube, N64, Super NES(original from US and Japan and Mini), NES(front and top loader)Model 1 & 2 Genesis, Sega CD, Sega 32X, Atari 2600, Sega Saturn, Sega Dreamcast, Sega Master System(Model 1 and 2), Atari Flashback 1 & 2, FC Twin(2 in 1 NES/Super NES clone), GN Twin(2 in 1 NES/Genesis clone), Atari 7800, Intellivision II, TurboGrafx 16, GameBoy Color
My guides: Cardboard and Straw MOD: http://forums.afterdawn.com/thread_view.cfm/308926
3-method exploit for PS2s: http://forums.afterdawn.com/thread_view.cfm/337567This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 4. July 2007 @ 06:36
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Senior Member
3 product reviews
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3. July 2007 @ 21:26 |
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TO: rvinkebob; and others
I think you already baught it but the better CPU coolers for the money spent have bean ThermalRight since 2003. Built right in the height of the lil hottest CPU's on the market, the XP Athlon and later A64's (your socket 754).
As mentioned, many on here are buyint the Artic Cooler manly cause everyone else is and some cause of low buy in price. Some may have spent the money elsewhere before CPU cooler and have to budget But you said you were open to medium price if it is good and that will be ThermalRight products. One small one made directly for your's was/is the 'lil Ultra 90 Tower or later the Ultra 120 (non eXtreme) w/ mounting for s754 & 939 (eXtreme will fit as same but need 754/939 bracket)
The SI-128 can be had for $40 USD or the Ultra 90 @ $15. (just a step below the Artic in perfromance but miles above stock. The Ultra and Ultra eXtreme 120s can be had for $50 & $55 - $60 USD. The 4 pip Ultra is above the Artic in both cooling and noise, the eXtreme is likey the best on air today in my experiences. They give even a heat pump TEC cooler a run for it's money at only a 1-2C trail.
However, I'm just as new here so most go in favor of the regulars so I suggest you actuall yahoo search the reviews on many of the mentioned ThermalRight products and judge from there as these guys in their labs do very much what I do in my personal workshop. Spend just one day confirming some my suggestions so you can say you made your own pick and not just cause the others baught it.
Good luck
Sony PSP/PS3,
ASUS RAMPAGE II EXTREME(X58) w/ i7 930 DO @ 4.305GHz (205x21 @ 1.323v) 2:8 DDR1680 @ 6-6-6-18
ASUS RAMPAGE EXTREME (X48) w/ Q6600 @ 3.81GHz, 422x9 @ DDR1680 6-7-6-20 @ 1.71v
ASUS CROSSHAIR w/ x2 6400+
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AfterDawn Addict
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4. July 2007 @ 02:17 |
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NuckNfuts,
Quote:
As mentioned, many on here are buyint the Artic Cooler manly cause everyone else is and some cause of low buy in price.
I bought my first Arctic Cooler as an inexpensive replacement for my Zalman 9500LED on my old P4 3.0/800, and installed the Zalman on my new D-940. I wasn't happy with the temps from the start. It cooled all right but you had to keep an eye on the room temp because at about 28C the CPU temp started to climb to 52 at idle, and the MB went over 50C. If I ran Prime 95 on it the CPU temp would get to about 60-62C and the MB to 55C.
In May of 06, I had a Heart attack at work which effectively put an end to my working days. My roomate wanted a new computer to replace the P4 so I built him an Athlon 64 4000+ on a Biostar T-Force 6100 socket 939 MB. While I was ordering the parts I bought an Arctic Freezer 64 for CPU cooling. I happened to notice that Newegg had the new Freezer 7 Pro on sale for $16.99 with free shipping, so I added it to my order just to try. I built the 4000+ for my roomie and noticed that about the only thing different between the 64 and the 7 Pro was the mount.
Since I had lots of time on my hands plus the proper mounts I decided I was going to do a real world test between the Zalman and the Arctics across 3 platforms. The cases were all the same so I figured that it would be an honest test. Besides I was bored silly and wanted something to do besides stay in the house all day and watch TV. I had all the mounts for the three platforms and since the Arctics seemed the same, other than the mount, I set to work. First up was the D-940! I pulled the Zalman and cleaned everything up and installed the Freezer 7 with the thermal compound that came with it. The first thing I noticed was that the temps were 5-6C lower than with the Zalman, even though the thermal compound hadn't cured yet. It ultimately got to 8C cooler overall with the Freezer 7 Pro. Today, with a milder (10%) OC for my roomie the temps are 34/37 for the CPU and MB at idle in a 29C room. Loaded it will get to 46/37 for CPU and MB and hasn't been removed since it replaced the Zalman.
Next up was the P4 which I had put in a new case for a customer of mine who wanted something for his home office. I had a Freezer 4 in stock for another customer but it wasn't going to install it for a couple of weeks, I decided to put the Zalman on the P4. Dug out the mounts for it and installed it. The temps were right about 2C higher but I figured that was because the AS5 hadn't cured yet. After about a week and a half of pretty much constant running, the temps went down to where they were before. I pulled the Zalman and installed the Freezer 4. Out of the box, the CPU was 5C cooler! I let that run in real good and concentrated on the new 4000+. I dug out the bits to mount the Zalman on the AMD, and it performed pretty good. Low 40Cs at idle and mid to high 50Cs under load. After a couple of weeks I needed to put the Zalman back in the P4 to deliver it. I pulled it, removed the Freezer 4 and installed the Zalman back in the P4 and delivered it to my customer. I mounted the Freezer 64 on the 4000+ and fired it up. CPU temp was in the high 30s. Today it idles at 35-36 and gets into the high 40s low 50s under load with a 12% OC.
I've since built my C2D and bought another Freezer 7 Pro for it. My E4300 runs at 3.276GHz and idles in the high 20s. That's with an 82% OC running 1.392v on the vcore. I never got to install the Zalman on it but I don't feel that it would improve anything. While I realize my testing wasn't very scientific, the Arctics all outperformed the Zalman in the real world! I realize that price was a very real reason for buying the first Freezer 7. I've paid as high as $54.99 for one since. I've put one in every customer build since (38 so far) and never have temperature issues. It's way quieter than the 9500 and on my new C2D using the PWM control on the MB, it's damn near silent! On mine it idles at 28-30C and the fan runs at 800-1000 rpm. While encoding with DVDRB/CCE it gets to the mid 40s and the rpms go up to 1200-1300 range. Even running OCCT for 12 hours only raises the temp to 52-54C and the fan rpms to 1500!
BTW, Zalman replaced the first 9500 because it stopped cooling as well as it had been. I think the fluid came out of it because over a period of a couple of weeks, the temps started climbing higher and higher and I RMA'd it! The replacement was the one I did the comparisun tests with and was brand new at the time! I never fail to recommend an Arctic Freezer series to anyone looking for a good cooler. Yes, there are others that are better like the Tuniq Tower, but they are designed for extreme overclockers. It also costs a good bit more than the Arctic. I ran my D-940 as high as 4.01GHz with My Freezer 7 Pro until sanity prevailed and I lowered it to 3.71. The MB I was using was old tech and not really designed for the power demands of the D-940 at those speeds. Still, the Freezer 7 kept up with it and still had lower temps than with the Zalman at 3.71!
The bottom line is it's a very good cooler for a moderate price. There are others that will out cool it but most cost more, or are noisy or difficult to install because of their size and weight. I doubt that a single member here has ever bought one just because other people have. Most here ask for opinions or temp monitoring screenshots, but everyone I know here makes their own choices. I made this an issue a while back on another Forum, after I ran my "test" and I got into more than one argument. Many of the members PM'd me to let me know that their findings were about the same as mine, they just didn't want to get into the same argument. Some are even members here! Back then the thinking was that the Copper was a better conductor of heat so it had to make a better cooler because the fins were copper! I even got skoffed at for going through all that work, and there was even a suggestion that maybe I might not have actually done all the work that I said I had done!
As far as the Thermalright goes, the Ultra 90 is $23.49 without a fan. Add the recommended fan and that's another $11.75 (current Newegg prices). This makes it cost more than the Arctic Freezer 64 at $29.99! It's heatsink is made out of Aluminum and I don't think there's a person in this forum that would buy any cooler that didn't have a copper heatsink! Passive cooling and overclocking don't seem to work very well together as some members have found out, so the fan is a must! At 30db it's extremely loud, too loud for most of us! I'll take the Freezer 64 over the Thermalright Ultra 90 any day!
Best Regards,
theone :}
GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor
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docTY
Member
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4. July 2007 @ 04:46 |
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Russ,
Quote:
You will discover over time that the quality of your build is directly related to the quality of the components you put into it. Your choice in MB, PS and memory is everything to good overclocking.
nicely put~ :) haven't been on AD for awhile, but your statement stood out to me, i'm not even going to bother going back a few pages in this thread, the issue at hand (Ace_2) def. sounds like a crappy PSU, i would trash it and get something even worth the cardboard it's sold in! as for Powmax, you are lucky you only fried ONE single system using that piece of $h1t, among my close builder friends and me, we've had at least 1/2 dozen build go to HELL (about 4-5 years ago) because of that worthless piece of trash they call a powersupply. i'm sure the Raidmax's aren't much better, but for the #1 spot for "worst of the worst" in terms of powersupplies, my vote definitely goes to Powmax...their customer support is ALSO NON-EXISTENT, when i tried to get an RMA for a 60 day old PSU, not once did they answer ANY of my emails nor pick up the phone when i called. in my experience, one of the worst/shadiest companies i've ever had the displeasure of dealing with....
docTY
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AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
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4. July 2007 @ 06:04 |
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Quote:
At 30db it's extremely loud, too loud for most of us!
Based on silentpcreview, your silverstone fan at 1600rpm is going to be somewhere around the 33dB mark, and you say that's quiet!
As for the PSU debate, when a Qtec fried half fof my system:
"please send all the hardware (damaged and undamaged to our labs for analysis" The address was in Germany. No thanks. If I didn't trust their PSU with the equipment top start with, why trust them with what surived?
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AfterDawn Addict
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4. July 2007 @ 07:25 |
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Sammorris,
Quote:
Based on silentpcreview, your silverstone fan at 1600rpm is going to be somewhere around the 33dB mark, and you say that's quiet!
I think Silentpcreview is all wet on this one! It doesn't come close to that much noise! At least not on mine. Not at 1600 rpm anyway! The loudest thing on my computer is the new 80mm 31 cfm side fan that I just put in it and that's no where near 30dB loud. I can't even hear the speed change from min to about 1800-1900 rpm on the Silverstone over it. I could easily hear the CPU cooler when it was running at full chat. I think the video card makes more noise than the Silverstone! I'm not saying that it doesn't make any noise, but nothing like 30dB, and certainly not annoying! The fan aside, would you buy an all aluminum CPU cooler? I know I wouldn't! Not when I could get one with a copper heatsink, that's quieter and costs less!
I'm going to replace the 80mm with a Silverstone FN83 which is 31 cfm and a lot quieter. I may replace the 80mm in the front of the case at the same time with one as well.
rvinkebob,
Glad to hear that it worked out well for you. You've got it overclocked about 35% so that's good. Should be a good deal faster! BTW, what kind of cooler was on it before? I'm curious because of the 4500 rpm speed.
Best Regards,
theone :}
GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor
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AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
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4. July 2007 @ 07:56 |
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Not forgetting Russ that noise measurements are relative. Thermaltake will say 21dB for something that by SPCR's standards is 37dB. Since I read most of the stuff I know about quiet PC parts from SPCR, I usually express things in terms of their numbering scheme, and that noise level makes sense, for me it's a bit more, perhaps 33 or 34. Unfortunately the vibrations are most intense for the FM121s in the mid-band, where all the useful noise to airflow ratios are found. Never mind eh? The Scythes will be going in soon.
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AfterDawn Addict
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4. July 2007 @ 09:13 |
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Hey Sam,
Quote:
Unfortunately the vibrations are most intense for the FM121s in the mid-band, where all the useful noise to airflow ratios are found. Never mind eh? The Scythes will be going in soon.
I just don't see or hear any vibration. At minimum to 1600 rpm there isn't any vibration I can hear. No harmonics, nothing. Trust me when I say you wouldn't care much for a 30dB noise in your room at 4 AM! LOL!! It's pretty loud.
I went to SPCR's site and looked through all the 120mm fan tests and didn't find anything on the Silverstone at all. I personally find these guys to be obsessive about noise, even to the point of being a little fanatical about it. Quiet is a good thing but they take it way beyond the norm. They seem to split hairs that have already been split! LOL!! The EAR plugs I use when driving a motorcycle would work pretty good and cost a bunch less. They filter out all the harsh stuff, yet you can still hear normal conversation.
Before I changed the 80mm side fan, my PC was a lot quieter. When I get the 2 80mm Silverstones and install them I fully expect it to be even quieter than it was before. All I hear now is air moving. I don't even hear the motors noise like I did with the stock Cooler Master. Before I changed the side fan, I could barely hear the computer over the slight noise my 34" ceiling fan makes, and you know how quiet those relatively slow moving fans are! Mind you, my ear is about all of 3 feet away from the computer. Even in the dead of night with the door open, you can't hear the computer running in the next room. Hell, you can't even hear it in the hall right outside the door! The Refrigerator makes more noise than the computer!
Best Regards,
Russ :}
GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor
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