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The Official PC building thread -3rd Edition
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Any Flaming Results in a Temp Ban or Worse. Your Choice!!!
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AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
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21. December 2009 @ 08:21 |
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As absurd as it might sound, having a physical power switch was actually a selling point for my TV...
The sad thing is that Toshiba know how to make every part of a TV to a good quality standard, except the power switch...
Both the 24Z33 CRT, and the 42XV635DB that replaced it have somewhat 'unconvincing' power switches - you had to wiggle the 24Z's button to get it to not stay stuck in. The 42XV is nowhere near as bad, but it doesn't feel very solid, and I have heard reports of them breaking. As naughty as it is, given there's a 24/7 fileserver machine right next to it, I usually employ standby just in case I have an RMA on my hands.
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Senior Member
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21. December 2009 @ 08:23 |
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All you techs out there might think this is funny... fixing a friends OLD machine I seen something that I havent in quite awhile...Not as old as dirt cause only about 10yrs old but thats alot in computer years...
30GB quantum fireball HDD...it was too full of data to do anything and in an HP Pavilion with 766mhz celeron and 320mb SDRAM running XP SP2 and they wondered why it wasn't a very positive user experience...fun little cleanup project over the weekend...wiping data from the drive I also happened to stumble upon hardcore pron pics of him and his obese wife. Some things I've seen can't be unseen!
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Senior Member
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21. December 2009 @ 09:04 |
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Deadrum33, ok were they can be posted, lol
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AfterDawn Addict
7 product reviews
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21. December 2009 @ 13:28 |
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Seems like i've seen that toshiba before. Very impressive.
Well...better get the ball rolling with newegg.
To delete, or not to delete. THAT is the question! |
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bigwill68
Suspended permanently
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21. December 2009 @ 13:32 |
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Originally posted by omegaman7:
Surely the default is not above 1.5V? Surely my luck is not that bad :)
naw i would believe it's below factory specs anytime. I've installed memory bein it be G.Skill or any brand.I would have manually turn up the volts to meet the factory specs when it's set at auto the voltage set below factory.I have installed G.Skill,Corsair sticks with has stated at auto 1.8v to 1.9v on auto where manually turning them up to 2.1v to run right.I haven tryed the 1.5v,1.65v,1.8v sticks yet but.I heard they having alot problems in some cases
Done out of Here!
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AfterDawn Addict
7 product reviews
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21. December 2009 @ 13:43 |
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I get the feeling I should have stuck with what works. E.g AM2+/AM3 DDR2 board.
To delete, or not to delete. THAT is the question! |
AfterDawn Addict
7 product reviews
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21. December 2009 @ 14:27 |
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Well...they don't do cross shipping. So I have to buy the new board NOW, and they'll refund the other when they receive it. I pretty much expected as much. Though I have heard of them bending over backwards for customers in the past :P Now the question is, do I give the same board another chance, or do I go for a different one. E.g. the one with sideport memory, or AM2+/AM3
To delete, or not to delete. THAT is the question! |
AfterDawn Addict
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21. December 2009 @ 16:52 |
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Originally posted by omegaman7:
Please correct me if my logic is flawed, but am I right in assuming that ALL DDR3 modules run at a lesser voltage? Part of the updated technology. Smaller technology = Lower voltage (nm). If thats right, then its DDR3 ports, as well as the bios are ready for this. So the default voltage will be LESS than that of a DDR2 board. Surely the default is not above 1.5V? Surely my luck is not that bad :)
Oman7,
Most DDR3 modules are 1.65v, although there are a number of them that are 1.5v, especially in the cheaper memory. Kingston Hyper X are 1.7 to 1.9v. GSkill Ripjaws are 1.5v, Corsair XMS & the Dominators are 1.65v!
Russ
GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor
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AfterDawn Addict
7 product reviews
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21. December 2009 @ 17:08 |
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Thanks russ. I was looking at some on newegg that run at 1.3V! PSU's of the future should be pretty happy eh ;) I decided to chance that the Mobo is dead, and unresponsive. In that I have bought basically the same board, with the Sideport Ram. At only a few more dollars, what the hey :) Should the next board have a same similar problem, I'll beat myself with a hammer, then buy tested and approved ram. Like I should have in the first place. When building for someone else, this is the way i'll do it in the future. But I don't very often. Still don't trust myself enough to do more than families computers. Not interested in the support i'll no doubt have to offer to non family members...
To delete, or not to delete. THAT is the question! |
AfterDawn Addict
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21. December 2009 @ 17:42 |
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Originally posted by omegaman7:
Thanks russ. I was looking at some on newegg that run at 1.3V! PSU's of the future should be pretty happy eh ;) I decided to chance that the Mobo is dead, and unresponsive. In that I have bought basically the same board, with the Sideport Ram. At only a few more dollars, what the hey :) Should the next board have a same similar problem, I'll beat myself with a hammer, then buy tested and approved ram. Like I should have in the first place. When building for someone else, this is the way i'll do it in the future. But I don't very often. Still don't trust myself enough to do more than families computers. Not interested in the support i'll no doubt have to offer to non family members...
Oman7,
I personally think the two best boards from GigaByte for AMD are:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128387
for DDR2 and the:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128378
For DDR3. They are essentially the same MB, but the first is DDR2 and the second, DDR3!
Russ
GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor
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AfterDawn Addict
7 product reviews
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21. December 2009 @ 17:46 |
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For myself, that's probably what I would buy(AM3 board), but this is for my mother, and I was keeping it almost as cheap as possible :P
To delete, or not to delete. THAT is the question! |
AfterDawn Addict
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21. December 2009 @ 17:54 |
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Originally posted by omegaman7:
For myself, that's probably what I would buy(AM3 board), but this is for my mother, and I was keeping it almost as cheap as possible :P
Oman7,
That's why I stayed with DDR2. I had the 2x2GB cas 5 Dominators already! My last two CPUs have been AM3, so when they eventually get DDR3 down to affordable lower cas latencies, I can switch to a DDR3 MB!
Russ
GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor
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AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
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21. December 2009 @ 18:03 |
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Already having the RAM is a big deciding factor. However, for new builds it's DDR3 all the way now since it's surprisingly cheaper than DDR2...
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bigwill68
Suspended permanently
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21. December 2009 @ 18:32 |
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this review is funny seem to me he was'nt paying attention or inspected the board b4 he installed it in the case.I always check my board over for broken parts or missed solided parts b4 installing it in the case.I think he broke it himself trying to put a card in it Tech level Pro...Not
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128378
Quote:
Reviewed By: on 12/17/2009
Tech Level: high - Ownership: 1 month to 1 year
This user purchased this item from Newegg
Pros: Installed easily and work well initially
Cons: When I wen to upgrade my video card, I realized the PCIe release was never installed on the board. Removing the card broke the PCIe slot. If I try to install a card in the remaining slot, the beep coe tells me the card is not seated.
Other Thoughts: Going to try to get an RMA for this, but since it's physcial damage, it doesn't seem likely. I wish I would ahve noticed the card was defective when I was installing it.
Done out of Here!
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AfterDawn Addict
15 product reviews
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21. December 2009 @ 19:28 |
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Haha I'll have to admit I'm also paranoid a bit about my electronics. When I first got my DFI 790FX it actually had a dry solder joint. I called up DFI support and they sent me a replacement before the defective board even arrived to them. If It hadn't been a brand new board I might have repaired it.
I actually have already done such a repair on my X38 board and not a problem since I've done it. Dry solder joint on back of the second PCI-e slot which after a quick shot of solder has never given me problems. I even ran my second 4870 in the slot for several months problem-free. Also have had the board back out to inspect it and if I hadn't know which spot to check I don't think I would've found it again. Hmm I wonder if Gigabyte might notice the repair if I sent it back. It's still under warranty.
I'll blame my solder issues on the new RoHS compliant regulations. It's the same exact reason the Xbox 360 red rings. Crappy solder. They reduced the amount of lead, and consequently, the melting point.
AMD Phenom II X6 1100T 4GHz(20 x 200) 1.5v 3000NB 2000HT, Corsair Hydro H110 w/ 4 x 140mm 1500RPM fans Push/Pull, Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD5, 8GB(2 x 4GB) G.Skill RipJaws DDR3-1600 @ 1600MHz CL9 1.55v, Gigabyte GTX760 OC 4GB(1170/1700), Corsair 750HX
Detailed PC Specs: http://my.afterdawn.com/estuansis/blog_entry.cfm/11388This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 21. December 2009 @ 19:30
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AfterDawn Addict
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21. December 2009 @ 19:59 |
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Originally posted by sammorris:
Already having the RAM is a big deciding factor. However, for new builds it's DDR3 all the way now since it's surprisingly cheaper than DDR2...
Sam,
Not in the US. They are about the same price here!
Russ
GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor
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AfterDawn Addict
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21. December 2009 @ 20:06 |
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Originally posted by Estuansis:
Haha I'll have to admit I'm also paranoid a bit about my electronics. When I first got my DFI 790FX it actually had a dry solder joint. I called up DFI support and they sent me a replacement before the defective board even arrived to them. If It hadn't been a brand new board I might have repaired it.
I actually have already done such a repair on my X38 board and not a problem since I've done it. Dry solder joint on back of the second PCI-e slot which after a quick shot of solder has never given me problems. I even ran my second 4870 in the slot for several months problem-free. Also have had the board back out to inspect it and if I hadn't know which spot to check I don't think I would've found it again. Hmm I wonder if Gigabyte might notice the repair if I sent it back. It's still under warranty.
I'll blame my solder issues on the new RoHS compliant regulations. It's the same exact reason the Xbox 360 red rings. Crappy solder. They reduced the amount of lead, and consequently, the melting point.
Estuansis,
The melting point of lead is lower than any other metal used in PCBs I can think of. The solder joints won't melt unless you have a real good short somewhere, and they heat up enough. Copper and tin melt at a higher temperature than lead.
Russ
GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor
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AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
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22. December 2009 @ 04:32 |
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Agreed. I am still adamant it was a bad cooler mounting process that caused the cooler to come loose from the heatspreader of the CPU/GPU.
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AfterDawn Addict
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22. December 2009 @ 06:42 |
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Estuansis,
Quote:
Originally posted by Estuansis:
I actually have already done such a repair on my X38 board and not a problem since I've done it. Dry solder joint on back of the second PCI-e slot which after a quick shot of solder has never given me problems.
I got to thinking about it and the description you gave where you re-soldered one of the connections on the motherboard. It's called a cold solder joint. That's surprising considering PCBs are flood soldered. Still, the reason you see it and can distinguish it from a good connection is the dullness, caused by probably a lack of Soldering flux on that particular connection, so the connection never sets. All that's connecting it is the lead, because if the lead doesn't melt completely, neither of the other metals in the solder will melt and mix properly either, and lead by itself is a poor conductor of electricity, subject to heating, cooling, and vibrations. Your soldering job, probably with rosin core solder, made it a good connection again!
Best Regards,
Russ
GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor
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ddp
Moderator
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22. December 2009 @ 16:06 |
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russ, explain "flood soldered".
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AfterDawn Addict
15 product reviews
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22. December 2009 @ 16:59 |
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Quote:
I got to thinking about it and the description you gave where you re-soldered one of the connections on the motherboard. It's called a cold solder joint. That's surprising considering PCBs are flood soldered. Still, the reason you see it and can distinguish it from a good connection is the dullness, caused by probably a lack of Soldering flux on that particular connection, so the connection never sets. All that's connecting it is the lead, because if the lead doesn't melt completely, neither of the other metals in the solder will melt and mix properly either, and lead by itself is a poor conductor of electricity, subject to heating, cooling, and vibrations. Your soldering job, probably with rosin core solder, made it a good connection again!
I've also had to replace blown caps on some older boards and I've added an AGP x8 slot to a board with the blank spot on it. It worked too after a custom BIOS. Just a matter of time and patience :P
AMD Phenom II X6 1100T 4GHz(20 x 200) 1.5v 3000NB 2000HT, Corsair Hydro H110 w/ 4 x 140mm 1500RPM fans Push/Pull, Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD5, 8GB(2 x 4GB) G.Skill RipJaws DDR3-1600 @ 1600MHz CL9 1.55v, Gigabyte GTX760 OC 4GB(1170/1700), Corsair 750HX
Detailed PC Specs: http://my.afterdawn.com/estuansis/blog_entry.cfm/11388
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AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
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22. December 2009 @ 17:44 |
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Soldering and capacitor replacement fairly standard stuff, but adding an AGP slot where there wasn't one? Hats off about that, I would never have thought that possible.
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ddp
Moderator
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22. December 2009 @ 17:52 |
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sam, not that hard to doas he only has to clean out the thru holes for the agp pins 1st if they were soldered. that stuff is easy if you know how to do it. i can replace any component on a motherboard except for the ic's that use solder balls for legs.
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AfterDawn Addict
15 product reviews
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22. December 2009 @ 20:19 |
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Well the board was actually built to use AGP. There was a blank spot on the motherboard for an AGP x8 slot where the holes were soldered shut. I just melted them out carefully, inserted the pins, and re-soldered it using a piece of aluminum in between the contacts to keep my mess under control. I just used an AGP slot off a dead board, melted off the solder and it came out without a single problem. Then I got the factory BIOS for the board and flashed them over the Dell BIOS using a pin hack on the processor(bridging two CPU pins with a thin piece of copper wire). Popped in an X1300 512MB and it ran like a champ full performance and throughput on the slot and everything. I really should hunt that guide down I did it early last year.
The idea of the pin hack is to trick the board into thinking it's an OEM board and not Dell proprietary. After I made the BIOS flash I removed the copper wire and the board acted just like an aftermarket part. It even had some very limited OCing options unlocked.
This was on an intel 865G board with a 3.2GHz Northwood P4 in it. AFAIK the PC is still in use with a 7600GS and does see occasional gaming from time to time.
AMD Phenom II X6 1100T 4GHz(20 x 200) 1.5v 3000NB 2000HT, Corsair Hydro H110 w/ 4 x 140mm 1500RPM fans Push/Pull, Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD5, 8GB(2 x 4GB) G.Skill RipJaws DDR3-1600 @ 1600MHz CL9 1.55v, Gigabyte GTX760 OC 4GB(1170/1700), Corsair 750HX
Detailed PC Specs: http://my.afterdawn.com/estuansis/blog_entry.cfm/11388
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 22. December 2009 @ 20:23
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AfterDawn Addict
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22. December 2009 @ 22:44 |
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Originally posted by ddp:
russ, explain "flood soldered".
ddp,
Flood soldering, now more commonly called wave soldering, where the board is totally immersed in solder for a very short period of time and all the connections are soldered at the same time. Please notice that it says immersed, not submerged. All the connections are fluxed, by a machine and immersed in liquid solder. When the process was invented, the theory was that the solder should only stick to the connections. If the temperatures and flux are right, the connections should be perfect. Oh to live in a perfect world! LOL!! Here's a YouTube vid that shows the whole process.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PmGOMatwSDI&NR=1
Happy Holidays,
Russ
GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 22. December 2009 @ 22:48
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