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The Official OC (OverClocking) Thread!
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Red_Maw
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22. February 2010 @ 02:56 |
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When you apply TIM, do you pull the HSF off the cpu to check or just go by how it feels and how much, if any, oozes out the side?
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 22. February 2010 @ 02:57
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22. February 2010 @ 03:01 |
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Setting it to PWM in the BIOS is what made auto work correctly for me. Any other configuration would not work. This is consistent across multiple boards from different brands. And both of my Tuniq 120s have the 3 pin header.
Quote:
I manually control the OC, but the fan settings should be pretty much auto eh? If it senses heat, it adjusts itself automatically. THAT'S what I meant by auto LOL! The Overclock SHOULD be done manually LOL!
Yeah I found that fans are best left to auto. This is one rare case where auto settings are usually the best route. All of my case fans have been converted to 2 pin so they run full out(CM quiet fans though) and my CPU and GPU fans are the only ones left to auto. It takes some experimentation to find the best balance of airflow.
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Did you try cutting off the System Fan Control. It controls the other 4 prong plug on the motherboard, and it interferes with the CPU fan. Just turn it off and set the Smart fan mode to Auto and it should work better!
Yes System Fan control should be turned off completely for auto to function properly. Russ seems to have explained it better. Mind you the only Gigabyte board I have to look at ATM is my X38. The DFI is much more deeply optioned and has different degrees of control.
Quote:
When you apply TIM, do you pull the HSF off the cpu to check or just go by how it feels and how much, if any, oozes out the side?
I used to be really paranoid. But, generally, once you figure out the right amount and your technique, you can just put it on.
AMD Phenom II X6 1100T 4GHz(20 x 200) 1.5v 3000NB 2000HT, Corsair Hydro H110 w/ 4 x 140mm 1500RPM fans Push/Pull, Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD5, 8GB(2 x 4GB) G.Skill RipJaws DDR3-1600 @ 1600MHz CL9 1.55v, Gigabyte GTX760 OC 4GB(1170/1700), Corsair 750HX
Detailed PC Specs: http://my.afterdawn.com/estuansis/blog_entry.cfm/11388This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 22. February 2010 @ 03:03
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22. February 2010 @ 03:03 |
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Since the material felt nearly liquid like(slimy), I didn't mind taking a quick look to see how the material applied. It looked VERY good.
The system Smart fan is disabled. It has no effect on how the CPU fan runs. If I disable smart cpu fan function, it runs at 2150Rpms non stop. If I enable it, and set it for PWM, it runs 2150Rpms non stop. If I set it for voltage, it seems to adapt for heat(engages when heat is detected) every 30seconds or so.
You can see, that this is quite confusing here. I can't make any sense of this. Perhaps Speedfan is in order LOL!
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22. February 2010 @ 03:06 |
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It might take some fiddling. I might mention that the intended outcome allows for smooth gradation of fan speed adjusting with the temps. Idle should be low-RPM, but the fan should never stop.
I have a feeling your program might be somewhat partly to blame for the confusion. It gives an "at the time of reading" for your fan. ie, the 30 seconds intervals are the program, not your fan speed. Speedfan tracks your fan speeds in real-time ;P
Also, I'm pretty sure speedfan can be used to set values for your fan according to temps. Don't quote me though :P
EDIT:
Also, Speedfan has always been a reliable temp monitor for me as well. It matches the same values given to me by CoreTemp, RealTemp, and Everest.
AMD Phenom II X6 1100T 4GHz(20 x 200) 1.5v 3000NB 2000HT, Corsair Hydro H110 w/ 4 x 140mm 1500RPM fans Push/Pull, Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD5, 8GB(2 x 4GB) G.Skill RipJaws DDR3-1600 @ 1600MHz CL9 1.55v, Gigabyte GTX760 OC 4GB(1170/1700), Corsair 750HX
Detailed PC Specs: http://my.afterdawn.com/estuansis/blog_entry.cfm/11388
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 22. February 2010 @ 03:13
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22. February 2010 @ 03:16 |
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Actually, I was guesstimating the 30sec interval. Regardless of my guesstimation, the fan DOES stop. Or at least everest seems to think so. In which the temperature increases, and the sensor disappears entirely.
I Just want it to settle down, and run at a regular rate ALL the time LOL! whether its 1000 0r 1200 rpms, doesn' matter. I just don't like hearing it startup every 30seconds or so. Perhaps the bios is flawed? Or I simply need a better CPU fan controller?
Is there not something like Rivatuner or evga precision, for CPU's? Please don't mention easy tune. Its a friggin joke. I tried it, and it wouldn't behave properly. I want it to rest on 1000 to 1200 rpms full time. Is there no way to achieve this?
I apologize. It may be everest malfunctioning. The CPU fan is not stopping. Or at least not according to Speedfan. It seems to rest at 200+/- RPMs...
To delete, or not to delete. THAT is the question! This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 22. February 2010 @ 03:25
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22. February 2010 @ 03:36 |
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Speedfan doesn't even affect the problem. Its like its staring at me and laughing LOL! Everything I do has no effect. Except running the fan at 2150Rpms fulltime. Which is NOT happening LOL! As I said, I'm half tempted to run the fan controller that came with the cooler. It's as though the bios is the problem...
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22. February 2010 @ 03:37 |
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Originally posted by omegaman7:
Since the material felt nearly liquid like(slimy), I didn't mind taking a quick look to see how the material applied. It looked VERY good.
The system Smart fan is disabled. It has no effect on how the CPU fan runs. If I disable smart cpu fan function, it runs at 2150Rpms non stop. If I enable it, and set it for PWM, it runs 2150Rpms non stop. If I set it for voltage, it seems to adapt for heat(engages when heat is detected) every 30seconds or so.
You can see, that this is quite confusing here. I can't make any sense of this. Perhaps Speedfan is in order LOL!
Oman7,
You are not following me here! Tuniqs do not have PWM fans. Set the mode to Auto! The temperatures will govern the voltage!
Russ
GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor
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22. February 2010 @ 03:42 |
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Russ, I don't even understand FULLY what a damn PWM fan is LOL! I'm trying everything I can at this point. The only effect I have on this system is either disabling auto(which causes full time 2150RPms), or auto voltage which causes my current dilemma. Dilemma being that the fan starts and stops rather obnoxiously. If it were only hitting 1200 rpms, no big deal. But its hitting 1700 audible rpms LOL!
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22. February 2010 @ 04:45 |
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Originally posted by omegaman7:
Russ, I don't even understand FULLY what a damn PWM fan is LOL! I'm trying everything I can at this point. The only effect I have on this system is either disabling auto(which causes full time 2150RPms), or auto voltage which causes my current dilemma. Dilemma being that the fan starts and stops rather obnoxiously. If it were only hitting 1200 rpms, no big deal. But its hitting 1700 audible rpms LOL!
Oman7,
Did you at least try EasyTune in a 60 (top) 40 (Bottom) ratio! It's easy enough to set, and don't forget, don't close it by the X in the top right hand corner. That will turn it off, and you don't want to do that. Just click the - key. You can also try the Automatic settings in EasyTune as well. EastTune might be crap, but the fan controller works great!
I'm still trying to find out why my computer straightened out and stopped running so hot right after I installed a newer Everest. I have no explanation for the much lower NB temperatures. Maybe sensors were receiving false information with Everest 4.60. I know for sure it was hot because you couldn't comfortably keep your hand on the heat sink, when the motherboard temp was 46-47C. All I know is now it's working properly, and the NB heatsink is so much cooler. I'm still not sure about the 8x/16x slot yet either. I ran 3d Mark and the scores are the same as with the Main PCI-E slot, a hair under 20,000 at the base settings, at 1024x768. Exactly what I get from the main slot! You can call me confused, but you can also call me happy! Those temps I posted are just amazing to me!
EDIT!
You could use one of these. It's PWM!
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185049
12.38 to 52.71 cfm, 310 to 1200 rpm. Should be very quiet!
Russ
GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 22. February 2010 @ 05:22
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22. February 2010 @ 13:05 |
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I tried easytune, until I was blue in the face LOL! I cannot override the way the fan wants to run. I cannot get it to settle down to less than 1600Rpms, without making it stop entirely. Whether its bios settings, or Easytune. I almost wonder if something is seriously wrong...
I'm half tempted now, to get a frontal fan controller for the case. That way I can control everything myself :p
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22. February 2010 @ 13:06 |
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Russ: My version of Everest ups my CPU temperature by 9 Celsius if it's left open, and will eventually slow my PC to a crash. I really need to update it... :P
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22. February 2010 @ 13:53 |
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My CPU is running at 34C idle right now. I discovered that increasing my GPU fan speed, pulled heat away from the CPU. Now the interval in which the Tuniq 120 fan spins up is a great deal less. Perhaps I would benefit from moving the GPU down to the lower slot eh? Since I only have one GPU, it would not slow to 8X bandwidth. Or is not every board that way?
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Red_Maw
Senior Member
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22. February 2010 @ 14:10 |
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Originally posted by sammorris:
Russ: My version of Everest ups my CPU temperature by 9 Celsius if it's left open, and will eventually slow my PC to a crash. I really need to update it... :P
Now that I think about it a majority of my crashes were when I left everest running. Do we have the same version (5.30.1900)?
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22. February 2010 @ 15:40 |
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Originally posted by Red_Maw:
Originally posted by sammorris:
Russ: My version of Everest ups my CPU temperature by 9 Celsius if it's left open, and will eventually slow my PC to a crash. I really need to update it... :P
Now that I think about it a majority of my crashes were when I left everest running. Do we have the same version (5.30.1900)?
Red_Maw,
Apparently various versions of Everest have an affect on the actual temps. Using Everest 4.60, my Northbridge was uncomfortably hot. You couldn't keep your hand on it for very long with temps as high as 47C, confirmed with the IR Thermal Probe. Now the motherboard temps don't go over 37C, which the thermal probe again confirms. Even running OCCT on all 4 cores doesn't push the motherboard past 43C. When I installed the same Everest you have, the temperature issues vanished, and the heatsinks are barely warm to the touch. I don't understand why, but I'm very happy with the results. Figuratively speaking, it runs cold as ice! This bodes well for a future 955BE on this motherboard. With all the screwy things that happened with this build, I guess I should have expected something unusual to happen, and it has! LOL!! I look at it this way, a 25% OC for the price of the 630 gives me more than satisfactory performance. More than double the performance that the 7750BE dual core had, so that's progress. I couldn't be happier with it!
Best Regards,
Russ
GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor
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22. February 2010 @ 15:41 |
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Omega: more likely, increasing your GPU fan speed cooled down the ambient temperature of your card, so the heat didn't rise up into the CPU area.
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22. February 2010 @ 15:44 |
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New version of Everest still causes interrupts. I can't play MP3s with everest open or the playback gradually gets slower and more corrupted. Closing everest still corrupts all sound output into garbage for 3-4 seconds. These interrupts also still pollute memory so you have to reboot to clear their effects.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 22. February 2010 @ 15:44
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22. February 2010 @ 15:47 |
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Originally posted by sammorris:
Omega: more likely, increasing your GPU fan speed cooled down the ambient temperature of your card, so the heat didn't rise up into the CPU area.
Thats more or less what I meant LOL! :p
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26. February 2010 @ 14:47 |
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Forgive me but I have been out of tune on the forums lately. What CPU Mobo & chipset are we working with here? I You are on the right track and sounds like you're working with older X38/X48 Core 2/2 quad based mobo. I have covered some overclocking tip with core 2 quads on early P35, X38/X48 chipsets and the limitations due to lack of advanced BIOS settings. Now X48 and certain mobos, ASUS & DFI to speak of with experience, have made these BIOS tweaks more available for Core 2 Quad OC. 1 of the other big volt settings to adjust for is CPU PLL. Now on lesser chipsets you only get control of one set. but the advance or more modern BIOS allow 2 sets of PLL for cores 1~2 & 3~4 so you can stable out the sets of cores on an overclock.
Research CPU PLL in relation to CPU and NB VID ratios. EDIT:And yes, during any above average overclocking, we do want to disable each EIST, any BIOS Turbo settings, as well as each CPU/PCI-E Speed Spectrum disabled for the Intel based systems, so you are on the right track.
Originally posted by theonejrs:
Well, I finally did some hunting because I was tired of not knowing what to do with the Spread Spectrum and the CPU NB VID Control. I don't know if this applies to Intel's or not, but The Spread Spectrum should be disabled on an AMD! It's tied to electronic interference with other electronic equipment, and is very rare these days. Modern computers usually have no effect on modern electronics, so the default is Disabled.
Here's the winner of the day though! The CPU NB VID control is different from the NorthBridge Volt Control. Basically, the NB Volt control communicates with the motherboard, and the CPU NB VID Control is the communication between the CPU and the NorthBridge! You can't get as stable an overclock without it, especially the higher you go with the CPU Frequency or multiplier. It's used to speed up the flow of data between the NB and CPU, to keep up with the CPU. Keep a close watch on your temperatures, and let them be your guide.
Example? I've been going crazy trying to get my Quad to a stable anything over 3.4GHz. It would run at 3.5 and 3.6GHZ and all of a sudden crash. No Rhyme, No Reason! I kept raising the CPU voltage till I reached the max for my CPU, and it still didn't work. Now I have the CPU undervolted to 1.39v, well short of the 1.424v maximum, the NB Volt Control is set to normal and the CPU NB VID Control set to +.050v, and not a one of my temps went up! It's 23C/74F in here and I'm idling at 26C. My motherboard is at 34C. I've been working this thing to death for most of the day at 3.5GHz, and not a single glitch. I found 98% of my lost memory speed, so I'm going to live with it for a few days, just like it is and see how it does!
Just remember, the one that says CPU NB, is the one you need to raise to get a better overclock!
OOPs! Forgot the link.:) Recommended reading for AMD builders!
http://www.techreaction.net/forums/showthread.php?t=367
Stay Tuned,
Russ
Sony PSP/PS3,
ASUS RAMPAGE II EXTREME(X58) w/ i7 930 DO @ 4.305GHz (205x21 @ 1.323v) 2:8 DDR1680 @ 6-6-6-18
ASUS RAMPAGE EXTREME (X48) w/ Q6600 @ 3.81GHz, 422x9 @ DDR1680 6-7-6-20 @ 1.71v
ASUS CROSSHAIR w/ x2 6400+
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 26. February 2010 @ 15:03
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26. February 2010 @ 14:49 |
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This is an Athlon II X4...
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Senior Member
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26. February 2010 @ 15:08 |
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Originally posted by sammorris:
This is an Athlon II X4...
Oops, I missed that. I have no personal experience yet with teh AMD X4's yet. I do know that my older X2 6400 BE was a heat beast at 3.56GHz and I can only imagine what kind of heat and vcore you will need to get there. I was hitting 65c easy w/ a ThermalRight Ultra 120 w/ dual fans in push/pull 85cfm.
Keep us posted on whare you get. Do these newer series run a lot cooler now?
Sony PSP/PS3,
ASUS RAMPAGE II EXTREME(X58) w/ i7 930 DO @ 4.305GHz (205x21 @ 1.323v) 2:8 DDR1680 @ 6-6-6-18
ASUS RAMPAGE EXTREME (X48) w/ Q6600 @ 3.81GHz, 422x9 @ DDR1680 6-7-6-20 @ 1.71v
ASUS CROSSHAIR w/ x2 6400+
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26. February 2010 @ 15:13 |
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GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor
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26. February 2010 @ 15:21 |
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AMD have made some reasonable strides in heat output with the lower end chips, after all, the 630 is a quad core, and still shares the 95W TDP of their dual cores of old. However, that 95W is clearly only at stock voltages which can only overclock so far. Fortunately the Athlon IIs seem reasonably adept at overclocking compared to their bigger, and more power hungry Phenom II brothers as the voltage clock speed ceilings are similar, but the Athlons start at a lower clock speed.
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26. February 2010 @ 15:47 |
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Originally posted by NuckNFuts:
Originally posted by sammorris:
This is an Athlon II X4...
Oops, I missed that. I have no personal experience yet with teh AMD X4's yet. I do know that my older X2 6400 BE was a heat beast at 3.56GHz and I can only imagine what kind of heat and vcore you will need to get there. I was hitting 65c easy w/ a ThermalRight Ultra 120 w/ dual fans in push/pull 85cfm.
Keep us posted on whare you get. Do these newer series run a lot cooler now?
Nuck,
I would say they run a lot cooler than the old Athlon's.
Even stressed with all 4 cores in OCCT, it doesn't come close to getting very hot. Even the Athlon x2 7750 ran 10C cooler than the 64x2 4800+ did in the same case with Oxi-II. It seems the older ones wanted to idle around mid 40s. I'm using a Freezer 64 to cool the CPU. It just doesn't need more cooler than that, even overclocked 700MHz to 3.5GHz. I've used an IR Temperature probe to confirm the results, and they are quite accurate.
Best Regards,
Russ
GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor
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26. February 2010 @ 16:47 |
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If I could get my Tuniq 120 tower to average 1200 Rpms, I'd probably match your temps russ. Unfortunately, my Tuniq likes either 200Rpms, or 1500+. Really doesn't bother me though. I may get a front 5.25" bay fan controller, and control most of my fans manually. I think it could be an educational experience ;) And I really need to move my GPU down to the lower slot. I believe it could help BOTH temps. We'll see...
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26. February 2010 @ 18:53 |
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er, usually higher rpm means lower temperatures, not higher...
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