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The Official OC (OverClocking) Thread!
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NO Fanboy comments needed
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AfterDawn Addict
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28. August 2010 @ 19:32 |
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Originally posted by sammorris:
Two drives, in my eyes, are so much more versatile than one, it just makes sense in my opinion. That said, I only tend to do it for higher budget builds, as people want maximised performance out of lower budget builds, and compromising said performance for slight versatility benefits usually isn't going to pay off.
Ddp: I'm well aware, I'm from the UK where the currency is not dollars. However, I cited it since it was with regard to a canadian.
Sam,
I agree totally about two or more drives. I was trying to get Will to understand that when you are on a budget, you do what you need to do for now, and add the luxuries later. That's why my final suggestion was for Mike to get the 250GB drive for now, and add another drive when he can. It's also why I didn't recommend the 750GB drive at this time. Under those circumstances I see no way to spend twice as much money just for the luxury of having two drives right now, especially since Mike's money is tight. This way Mike winds up with a fully functional and fast computer, that he can add anything he wants to, in the future.
With Will's talk of drives failing and losing everything, I would like to point out that I have only replaced two drives because of failure, in 22 years, and one that was in a computer my Dentist gave to me in 04, that was still under warranty. I also had to return the one that Fedex Air Mailed into the middle of my front yard. My current boot drive is 5 years old (Seagate 160GB) and still going strong. I bought it when I built the D-940, and it's been with me through the E4300, the E7650, the AMD 7750, the 630 Quad and now the 955BE Quad. The only problems I ever had with it were caused by File Corruption, that was in turn, caused by a faulty SouthBridge chip. All I had to do to it was wipe it clean with Kill Disk, and it was as good as new.
BTW, Canadian money is in Dollars, They just aren't US Dollars. :)
Russ
GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor
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bigwill68
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28. August 2010 @ 21:41 |
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Quote:
Russ Wrote:
BTW, Canadian money is in Dollars, They just aren't US Dollars. :)
Yea there Dollars tends to be worth about 80 American or Euro cents. they phased it out the Dollar bill in the 80's. It's called a "Loonie"
20 cent diffrents
http://www.filibustercartoons.com/New%20....php?page=money
Done out of Here!
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ddp
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28. August 2010 @ 22:06 |
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bigwill, the canadian dollar is presently worth 95.2 cents to the us greenback. the canadian dollar hasn't been 80 cents for at least 3yrs & has even been higher then the us greenback a couple of times the past couple of years.
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AfterDawn Addict
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29. August 2010 @ 00:03 |
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Originally posted by M1986:
On another note... My 12cm stock cooling fan on my Cooler Master 500 watt PSU finally died (stopped working) I replaced the PSU with a 350 watt Enermax for the time being. I opened the Cooler Master PSU and unscrewed the fan. The PSU still works perfectly as I detected the problem before any over heating damage occurred. I plan on buying a new 12cm fan for the PSU and running it again down the road. The problem is when I opened the PSU it had a lot of dust inside and I really do not like to see all that dust inside my PSU. I would like to clean the inside components with a vacuum however I noticed the 1.6 Volt Capacitors and I must admit I am a little scared to take a vacuum to the inside now as I do not want to be electrocuted. My question is... Is it safe to take a vacuum cleaner to the inside of this PSU? it has been unplugged for 2 days now but I know that capacitors hold a charge that can kill. If it is NOT SAFE what would you recommend to be the best way to clean the dust out of the PSU? There is a lot of dust and it is sticking to the components inside like peanut butter on bread.
M1986,
Rest assured that if the PSU has been unplugged for 2 days, there's no electricity left in it! Capacitors of the size and type that go in a PSU won't hold a charge that long! Besides you could always discharge them with a screwdriver between the case and the Cap! I doubt that they store a life threatening charge. I've repaired many a PSU over the years, and never got a shock.
Russ
GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 29. August 2010 @ 00:04
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M1986
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29. August 2010 @ 23:14 |
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Hey Will I know are money is low but damn 80 cents lol ya it hasn't been that low in a long time. As a matter of fact for one day the Canadian Dollar was at $1.10 to the U.S. Today it floats between .95 to .98
At Russ - I think I will keep my fingers far away from the capacitors =)
AMD Athlon 64 X2 3600+ @ 1.9GHz, MSI K9VGM-V AM2 SOCKET, 2GB DDR2 800MHz, ATI Radeon X1950 Pro 256MB DDR3 Core at 575MHz, Memory Clock at 1.38GHz and Shader Clock at 1.4GHz I think, 40GB 7200RPM SATA Seagate, 350 watt Enermax PSU, 22x LG DVD Burner, Antec PlusView 1000AMG Case, WinXP PRO
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 30. August 2010 @ 12:53
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ddp
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29. August 2010 @ 23:21 |
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29. August 2010 @ 23:25 |
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I recommend you edit your post mike. That's why I Pm'd you.
If you're unsure how to PM, click on the arrow next to a users name, you'll know what to do from there ;)
To delete, or not to delete. THAT is the question! This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 29. August 2010 @ 23:27
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AfterDawn Addict
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30. August 2010 @ 00:19 |
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direct link to torrents is a no, but you can link to the site hosting them, right?
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AfterDawn Addict
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30. August 2010 @ 00:41 |
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AFAIK saying the name of the site would be reasonable. But yes directly linking to a pirated torrent is strictly prohibited. If such talk must occur, the private messaging system is there for a reason. Works a treat too.
AMD Phenom II X6 1100T 4GHz(20 x 200) 1.5v 3000NB 2000HT, Corsair Hydro H110 w/ 4 x 140mm 1500RPM fans Push/Pull, Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD5, 8GB(2 x 4GB) G.Skill RipJaws DDR3-1600 @ 1600MHz CL9 1.55v, Gigabyte GTX760 OC 4GB(1170/1700), Corsair 750HX
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30. August 2010 @ 05:24 |
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Linking to any site that has a primary objective of providing, or even indxexing, illegal content would be against forum rules. I think naming them is OK, but officially you can't endorse them.
So far, touch wood, I haven't lost a drive/data to one failing, only to ones that have been destroyed by faulty power cables or power supplies, and assuming you take decent care of hardware and don't buy fundamentally flawed products, that should be everyone's story, really. Things do happen, but it's not especially common.
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AfterDawn Addict
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30. August 2010 @ 07:09 |
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Originally posted by sammorris:
Linking to any site that has a primary objective of providing, or even indxexing, illegal content would be against forum rules. I think naming them is OK, but officially you can't endorse them.
So far, touch wood, I haven't lost a drive/data to one failing, only to ones that have been destroyed by faulty power cables or power supplies, and assuming you take decent care of hardware and don't buy fundamentally flawed products, that should be everyone's story, really. Things do happen, but it's not especially common.
Sam,
I guess that would mean I've only had one failure in about 22 years then, because one of the two was caused by a cheap PSU. I RMA'd a SCSI back in the day, but there was nothing wrong with it. I had no idea what a terminating resistor was, and there was no google to help you out back then! LOL!! I may have had to RMA one or two from Customer builds, but I really don't recall any.
Russ
GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor
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AfterDawn Addict
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30. August 2010 @ 12:22 |
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Originally posted by sammorris:
Linking to any site that has a primary objective of providing, or even indxexing, illegal content would be against forum rules. I think naming them is OK, but officially you can't endorse them.
So far, touch wood, I haven't lost a drive/data to one failing, only to ones that have been destroyed by faulty power cables or power supplies, and assuming you take decent care of hardware and don't buy fundamentally flawed products, that should be everyone's story, really. Things do happen, but it's not especially common.
One of my work buddy's asked me to replace his Xbox 360 HDD. He says his hard drive is wacked. I'm hoping it's not soo toast, that I can't clone the data contained therein. If I can clone the drive, it'll be like it never happened. I've been reading about them off and on for the past day. Looks like they take a 2.5" typical mechanical laptop drive. And also from the looks of things, Seagate may have been typically used to cut costs. Nice one M$ LOL!
To delete, or not to delete. THAT is the question! |
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18. September 2010 @ 07:08 |
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Omega: Was my understanding most of the drives MS used are Toshiba, since Toshiba and MS are affiliated. Why is Seagate suddenly a marker for cheapness?
SamRobert: Welcome to the thread. Bit of a madhouse in here, but you'll get used to it!
If you want to overclock, certainly a custom-built PC is the way to go, while I wouldn't say prebuilt off the shelf PCs are crap, they're typically low-spec, and for anything but cheap office systems, are poor value for money.
The main problem with prebuilts, especially Dells, is the lack of any overclocking options whatsoever.
It's been a long time since I've seen anyone with an Athlon XP AGP system so I'm unfamiliar with the details (I wasn't into overclocking back then) but I will say you're on a hide into nothing trying to get extra performance out of it. Even with a good cooler you're not going to get the sort of performance gain you will actually notice in real-world use of the system.
As for your current stability issues, check the memory speed. Overclocking the FSB will raise the memory speed automatically unless you cut the memory multiplier, and if you're over-running the memory, that will certainly cause stability issues.
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18. September 2010 @ 12:39 |
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That statement was unwarranted :p I was in one of my moods. It ended up being a Fujitsu drive. I suppose a similar thought remains though. Generally, WD is the more expensive drive, and M$ from what I've seen and heard keep the drives cheap, to maximize profits. Though I have heard of a few systems getting the WD drives.
To delete, or not to delete. THAT is the question! |
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bigwill68
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18. September 2010 @ 20:08 |
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Quote:
As for your current stability issues, check the memory speed. Overclocking the FSB will raise the memory speed automatically unless you cut the memory multiplier, and if you're over-running the memory, that will certainly cause stability issues.
Not if you loosen up the timing a little will not have stability issues and the voltage is at the proper setting only problem is you will reduce the memory system performance running loose timing in some aspects tigher timings are always better @ stock, but when your oc'ing if you loosen the timings it puts less strain on the ram so its more stable, so you always want to go with the tightest ram you can, that way, if you decide to lossen up the timings the performance loss isnt as bad.
Done out of Here!
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AfterDawn Addict
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18. September 2010 @ 21:28 |
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Overclocking is still somewhat of a challenge for me. Especially terminology. Could you explain the difference between tight and loose timing? Examples? When you say tight and loose, are you referring to Cas Latency? 9 would be loose, 7 would be tighter?
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bigwill68
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19. September 2010 @ 00:02 |
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Originally posted by omegaman7:
Overclocking is still somewhat of a challenge for me. Especially terminology. Could you explain the difference between tight and loose timing? Examples? When you say tight and loose, are you referring to Cas Latency? 9 would be loose, 7 would be tighter?
If you bought some Cas7 and time them to 9 they would be loose for sure.Lol and you would have to be at one heck of Oc for to have them that loose to be stable, Naw the point is Omegaman the smaller cycle times represent quicker operation for the stick,as. I see your timing is 8-8-8-24 if you would by chance,change it to 8-8-8-21 you would shave a few Ns off your Cycle times and still be stable These days when we buy some memory they come loose say for instants when.I got my G.Skill the timing said 8-8-8-21 but when. I plugged it in it ran at 9-9-9-24 freely. I had to tighten it up factory specs
Here you go...
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261138...-memory-timings
Done out of Here!
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 19. September 2010 @ 00:04
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AfterDawn Addict
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19. September 2010 @ 00:48 |
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Ok. I think I understand. Thanks! :D
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19. September 2010 @ 06:25 |
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Yeah I tend typically not to refer to already slow memory as loose, e.g. 1600mhz CAS9 versus 1600mhz CAS7. But if you increase the timings of said 1600mhz CAS7 to CAS9 so you can clock the memory higher than 1600mhz (the only reason you ever need to do this unless the memory is faulty) then that's loosening the timings.
If you'd bought the CAS9 stuff and wanted to drop the timings to CAS8, that would be tightening them.
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19. September 2010 @ 22:49 |
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Ugh again another reason I prefer AMD Black Edition processors. Buy memory at the spec you want, leave it there and OC the CPU entirely separately. No muss, no fuss, no headache. Memory still confuses me.
AMD Phenom II X6 1100T 4GHz(20 x 200) 1.5v 3000NB 2000HT, Corsair Hydro H110 w/ 4 x 140mm 1500RPM fans Push/Pull, Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD5, 8GB(2 x 4GB) G.Skill RipJaws DDR3-1600 @ 1600MHz CL9 1.55v, Gigabyte GTX760 OC 4GB(1170/1700), Corsair 750HX
Detailed PC Specs: http://my.afterdawn.com/estuansis/blog_entry.cfm/11388
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19. September 2010 @ 22:53 |
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Ahh yes. But fine tuning ;)
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19. September 2010 @ 23:11 |
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Oh for sure but I'm more worried about stability. Adding in the factor of timings, memory clock, etc causes stability headaches. I'd much rather run my memory as close to stock as possible and just buy accordingly for better performance. Memory is not like processors where there is a guaranteed speed range. Most of the time, running outside of the stock spec just means headaches.
AMD Phenom II X6 1100T 4GHz(20 x 200) 1.5v 3000NB 2000HT, Corsair Hydro H110 w/ 4 x 140mm 1500RPM fans Push/Pull, Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD5, 8GB(2 x 4GB) G.Skill RipJaws DDR3-1600 @ 1600MHz CL9 1.55v, Gigabyte GTX760 OC 4GB(1170/1700), Corsair 750HX
Detailed PC Specs: http://my.afterdawn.com/estuansis/blog_entry.cfm/11388
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20. September 2010 @ 07:03 |
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Well, arguably there are now the K series CPUs from Intel that do the same thing, but for LGA1156 it's largely unnecessary since the current chips are so resilient to baseclock increases, and have such a good set of memory multipliers.
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20. September 2010 @ 07:52 |
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Yeah it's been made much easier in recent times. But even with my Q6600 which was OCd using the FSB, I have tried to keep the memory as close to stock as possible. AFAIK stability issues due to raising the FSB itself are largely down to the motherboard, not the CPU.
AMD Phenom II X6 1100T 4GHz(20 x 200) 1.5v 3000NB 2000HT, Corsair Hydro H110 w/ 4 x 140mm 1500RPM fans Push/Pull, Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD5, 8GB(2 x 4GB) G.Skill RipJaws DDR3-1600 @ 1600MHz CL9 1.55v, Gigabyte GTX760 OC 4GB(1170/1700), Corsair 750HX
Detailed PC Specs: http://my.afterdawn.com/estuansis/blog_entry.cfm/11388
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AfterDawn Addict
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20. September 2010 @ 09:35 |
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Q6600s were easier to overclock than Q9000s effectively, as they only had a 266mhz front side bus with the same minimum memory multiplier, so on 800mhz memory you could get a 50% overclock, or 2.4->3.6Ghz. Q9550s with the 333mhz front side bus could only use a 20% overclock, or 2.83->3.4Ghz (what I'm currently using with mine, though with 2.66x multiplier for 1066mhz memory). 1066mhz memory was an absolute necessity for overclocking Yorkfields, but with the Q9550, you could get as far as 4.53Ghz with it, if the chip allowed it (typically that was WC only).
QX9650s mind, you just left the FSB at 400, and upped the multi to 11, 4.4Ghz at stock board settings, job done. There's a reason those chips were so expensive!
All the CPU really controls is how much VCore you need. Everything else is down to the board, if you can't get stable no matter how high the CPU Vcore goes, the board is holding you back.
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