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The Official PC building thread - 4th Edition
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Senior Member
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28. February 2011 @ 16:43 |
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Originally posted by Mr-Movies:
Off subject sorry for this, but do you like Final Cut and/or prefer it over some of the MS based tools like Pinnacle/Sony Studio's or others in the area? Or have you only played with Final Cut?
I honestly have been too busy attempting to learn the Logic audio software to do anything but check out the GUI for Final Cut. Once I get some new video footage of a few area bands (mine included :P ) it will be my next task.
Speaking of Adobe, i just recently installed the CS5 Master Suite because i need Dreamweaver. I know installing the suite for 1 program is overkill, but figured I'd learn a few other things things while I'm at it...O-MAN is there a special Adobe setting to keep it from updating or did you have to run a script to keep it from calling home? And that looks like a good build...
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AfterDawn Addict
7 product reviews
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28. February 2011 @ 17:05 |
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I pm'd you Deadrum.
SOunds like my customer/friend is happy with the price of that build. She's currently contemplating the matter.
To delete, or not to delete. THAT is the question! |
AfterDawn Addict
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28. February 2011 @ 18:01 |
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GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor
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AfterDawn Addict
7 product reviews
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28. February 2011 @ 18:36 |
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I have that memory russ. Yes, it's nice, but probably too much for these people. They want me to keep the purchase as cheep as possible, though not TOO cheap.
They're just using it for music, and schoolwork apparently. With the components I'm getting them, they should be happy for at least 3 - 5yrs ;)
To delete, or not to delete. THAT is the question! |
AfterDawn Addict
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28. February 2011 @ 18:47 |
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Originally posted by omegaman7:
I have that memory russ. Yes, it's nice, but probably too much for these people. They want me to keep the purchase as cheep as possible, though not TOO cheap.
They're just using it for music, and schoolwork apparently. With the components I'm getting them, they should be happy for at least 3 - 5yrs ;)
Oman7,
That's what I get for being half asleep (Pre-Coffee)! I thought this was a 1090T build for you. I completely missed the Propus 640! LOL!! My big question is why, if their use is so mundane, are they wanting to spring for such an expensive motherboard, when our 630 Propus rocks on the US2H, with DDR2? Just asking, especially since Bulldozer and Bobcat won't be socket compatible!
Russ
GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor
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AfterDawn Addict
7 product reviews
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28. February 2011 @ 18:53 |
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Can't find one on newegg. At least this way, it's fairly future proof. But what is...
Bulldozer of course, will require a whole new socket.
To delete, or not to delete. THAT is the question! |
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eskoog
Newbie
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1. March 2011 @ 01:36 |
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Just a "heads -up" if considering upgrading OS hard drive with PC mover (files transfer option). Using PC MOVER to transfer Win 7 ultimate 64bit to new hard drive triggered Windows Product Activation (WAT); which was accomplished via 1-888 number.
WAT is an voice automated communication procedure requiring entering 8 strings of 6 numeric characters, a numeric keypad makes task easier. It's recommended to request "repeat activation code" to verify correctness of your entry.
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AfterDawn Addict
7 product reviews
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4. March 2011 @ 03:55 |
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Thanks to all concerned, for convincing me to get a sata dock. I love it!(Thermaltake BlacX ST0005U) I currently have it running a transfer via USB. It's averaging 25.3MB/s. According to windows 7 transfer window. Not quite as quick as the Verbatim Clone 250Gb drive my brother bought recently, but I'm not using it's full potential either. The single Esata port I have, is not connected internally yet. I have lots to transfer, so I'll probably be hooking that up tomorrow.
I now have 3 WD20EARS drives. I have not connected the 3rd yet, but it'll be connected tomorrow. I've got some catching up to do eh sam? LOL! I'd love to play with the 3Tb drives. But perhaps it's too soon for that. They're too darned expensive. I may not be getting my SSD either. I have another 0bligation coming up. Or atleast I call it an obligation. I recently acquired a Canon Powershot S3 IS. My first Canon camera. I'm very happy about that. Unfortunately, the primary lens is dirty on the INSIDE(Nasty water spot). It'll cost me 150$ to have it repaired. There went my SSD :( I'm too intimidated by the inner workings of a camera lens to do it myself. Ordinarily I dive right into tearing things apart :p The reason I feel obligated, is because I've wanted a good canon camera for a very long time. This one comes very close to fitting that bill. I owe it to the camera and myself to get it up and running :D
To delete, or not to delete. THAT is the question! |
AfterDawn Addict
7 product reviews
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4. March 2011 @ 13:33 |
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Hey, speaking of eSata. I've never used it before. My HAF932 has a cable that runs from the top of the towers eSata port, and awaits a regular internal sata port. My question is will the top port behave like a USB port. In that I need to safely remove devices, or will I have to power down the system, to disconnect eSata connected devices? I Don't want to switch to AHCI mode, because then ALL of my hard drives show up in the safe remove tool. At least I"m pretty sure that's what happens LOL! I most certainly do not want to plug something in, and then disconnect it when done, and blow the sata channel in doing so. My brother disconnected an IDE device while the computer was running before. It destroyed the channel. Thoughts?
To delete, or not to delete. THAT is the question! |
AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
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4. March 2011 @ 13:37 |
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I never safely remove USB devices, I've never needed to. SATA's little different, but by principle I usually power off the devices before disconnecting them from the cable. I wouldn't know about the top eSATA port on the HAF as like the USBs, mine doesn't work.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 4. March 2011 @ 13:37
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Senior Member
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4. March 2011 @ 13:41 |
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I prefer a SLR myself but for a snap shot camera that?s one of the best ones. If you're going to spend that much money why not consider doubling, or more, your camera?s resolution and getting a new warranty too. For $50 more you can have the Canon SX130 IS Black 12.1 MP 3.0" but for double you can get the much nicer Canon PowerShot SX30 IS Black 14.1 MP 2.7". One of my friends asked me what camera to buy in this price range and she bought the SX30IS. It can shoot HD video well and is great for pictures. She really loves her new toy and her husband was very surprised at how well the camera works plus the feature rich tools available.
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Senior Member
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4. March 2011 @ 13:46 |
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Originally posted by sammorris:
I never safely remove USB devices, I've never needed to. SATA's little different, but by principle I usually power off the devices before disconnecting them from the cable. I wouldn't know about the top eSATA port on the HAF as like the USBs, mine doesn't work.
Interesting observation, quote(I never safely remove USB devices, I've never needed to.)I was always under the impression of the opposite, all the big boys always made me aware of that as also many articles, doing so can be a pain in the rear I agree, but truly how safe or unsafe is it really, when you say never needed to, explain further please, and why is it you feel safe in not doing so.
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AfterDawn Addict
7 product reviews
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4. March 2011 @ 13:59 |
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If i'm in a hurry, I'll pull a flash drive out of the ports rapidly. But I'm uncertain how the Sata ports work. I guess I should just switch it over to AHCI. I've heard some people say there's a speed improvement anyway...
I've seen the pictures that the Powershot S3 IS has taken. Nothing short of breathtaking when you know what you're doing. I want a camera like that LOL! I really want one of their 800+ USD cameras. All of them get excellent reviews. I'd like an SLR too... 150$ is affordable, I can't go much more than that :S
To delete, or not to delete. THAT is the question! |
AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
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4. March 2011 @ 13:59 |
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All the big boys also run driversweeper etc. when updating their drivers, which I also never do.
I've never had a USB device go bad through this means. Either the fault has been an issue with the drive before it became a USB device (i.e. an internal hard drive moved to an external enclosure that was dodgy before), or the fault has been the with the logic of the controller, and had nothing to do with the data on the drive.
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Senior Member
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4. March 2011 @ 14:02 |
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Originally posted by sammorris:
I never safely remove USB devices, I've never needed to. SATA's little different, but by principle I usually power off the devices before disconnecting them from the cable. I wouldn't know about the top eSATA port on the HAF as like the USBs, mine doesn't work.
Not smart and not good advice, you are damn lucky. I know too many people that have pooched their drives not using safe removal and I have too. It is not a smart practice not to, nor is it difficult either. I've even seen flash cards get corrupted by not using smart removal but that is less likely as Windows doesn't get as confused with flash memory.
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AfterDawn Addict
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4. March 2011 @ 14:07 |
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As someone who's used USB externals and USB sticks continuously for 7 years, I don't honestly think that's valid criticism. The clue is common sense. Don't unplug a drive while its in the middle of being written to. Even if you do, the worst you'll manage is corrupting its contents. Wipe it clean and start again and you'll be fine. You can't damage the hardware of an external device by unplugging it during data transmission.
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Moderator
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4. March 2011 @ 14:17 |
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I always, always safely 'eject' ie remove USB sticks/USB HDD's but am well aware of the risks of not doing it, too many times at work we have to tell people their data has gone due to yanking them out (even when they've finished writing), it's just not worth the risk. Obviously the devices don't get damaged but the data is too easily lost.
I often see/experience data lost when one of my USB HDD's doesn't quite get enough juice from it's little power lead, the error is along the lines of this ~
and that's the kind of thing that often happens when USB isn't ejected properly.
At the end of the day it's just not worth the hassle to not eject things properly, we drum it into peoples' heads at work. Luckily our own backups are great otherwise people can potentially lose important data that way, but as i say we make sure to educate people, they soon mend their silly ways when they lose their data anyway.
Main PC ~ Intel C2Q Q6600 (G0 Stepping)/Gigabyte GA-EP45-DS3/2GB Crucial Ballistix PC2-8500/Zalman CNPS9700/Antec 900/Corsair HX 620W
Network ~ DD-WRT ~ 2node WDS-WPA2/AES ~ Buffalo WHR-G54S. 3node WPA2/AES ~ WRT54GS v6 (inc. WEP BSSID), WRT54G v2, WRT54G2 v1. *** Forum Rules ***This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 4. March 2011 @ 14:19
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Senior Member
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4. March 2011 @ 14:20 |
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Originally posted by sammorris:
As someone who's used USB externals and USB sticks continuously for 7 years, I don't honestly think that's valid criticism. The clue is common sense. Don't unplug a drive while its in the middle of being written to. Even if you do, the worst you'll manage is corrupting its contents. Wipe it clean and start again and you'll be fine. You can't damage the hardware of an external device by unplugging it during data transmission.
Wrong, assumption and conclusion, and you pride yourself in that, WOW! Too many people that know much more than you seem to would argue that you are flat out wrong. You'll never see that though. Too bad I'd say.
Windows sees hard drives as internal devices regardless of whether they are attached via USB or otherwise. The trash can attaches to them and is one point of a potential problem. You can turn off the feature of caching deleted files and that helps but it is still Windows assumption that the drive is internal that can cause problems. You certainly can corrupt a drive when it is just idle and quickly removing it. There are many variables involved here and it wouldn?t be worth it to go further.
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Senior Member
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4. March 2011 @ 14:28 |
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Originally posted by omegaman7:
But I'm uncertain how the Sata ports work. I guess I should just switch it over to AHCI. I've heard some people say there's a speed improvement anyway...
You just said it all right there, AHCI. It depends how you setup the SATA mode on your mobo(IDE, RAID, AHCI), that will control hot-swap etc.
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AfterDawn Addict
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4. March 2011 @ 14:48 |
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i have never safely ejected my drives, for the years i have been using them. Not had a problem yet.
MGR (Micro Gaming Rig) .|. Intel Q6600 @ 3.45GHz .|. Asus P35 P5K-E/WiFi .|. 4GB 1066MHz Geil Black Dragon RAM .|. Samsung F60 SSD .|. Corsair H50-1 Cooler .|. Sapphire 4870 512MB .|. Lian Li PC-A70B .|. Be Queit P7 Dark Power Pro 850W PSU .|. 24" 1920x1200 DGM (MVA Panel) .|. 24" 1920x1080 Dell (TN Panel) .|. |
Moderator
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4. March 2011 @ 15:10 |
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Well as i say, wait until there's important data on there one day and you lose it.. it only takes once :)
Main PC ~ Intel C2Q Q6600 (G0 Stepping)/Gigabyte GA-EP45-DS3/2GB Crucial Ballistix PC2-8500/Zalman CNPS9700/Antec 900/Corsair HX 620W
Network ~ DD-WRT ~ 2node WDS-WPA2/AES ~ Buffalo WHR-G54S. 3node WPA2/AES ~ WRT54GS v6 (inc. WEP BSSID), WRT54G v2, WRT54G2 v1. *** Forum Rules ***
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AfterDawn Addict
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4. March 2011 @ 15:15 |
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true say. I guess i can be ignortant till then.
just bought a 16GB usb, dedicated to OS's. Installed win7's ISO to it. I finally do not need an optical drive.
MGR (Micro Gaming Rig) .|. Intel Q6600 @ 3.45GHz .|. Asus P35 P5K-E/WiFi .|. 4GB 1066MHz Geil Black Dragon RAM .|. Samsung F60 SSD .|. Corsair H50-1 Cooler .|. Sapphire 4870 512MB .|. Lian Li PC-A70B .|. Be Queit P7 Dark Power Pro 850W PSU .|. 24" 1920x1200 DGM (MVA Panel) .|. 24" 1920x1080 Dell (TN Panel) .|.
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AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
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4. March 2011 @ 15:16 |
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Nobody should ever have data on a removable disk that isn't backed up somewhere else. USB sticks are easily lost/damaged, and can also fail like any other device. Anyone who loses important data and doesn't have it backed up, deserves everything coming to them.
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Moderator
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4. March 2011 @ 15:21 |
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Bloody Windows 7, it lets me install a WMP54G then can't see my WPA2/AES network, only offers WPA Personal. Bag of crap!; ah well, off to google i go, if it won't work then XP goes back on there. I hope it's just a driver issue, (and its fixable), even my Puppy linux machines can cater for WPA2/AES.
Pah, humbug, grumble grumble :p
edit- i know what i didn't think of, Vista drivers, that should do it.
Main PC ~ Intel C2Q Q6600 (G0 Stepping)/Gigabyte GA-EP45-DS3/2GB Crucial Ballistix PC2-8500/Zalman CNPS9700/Antec 900/Corsair HX 620W
Network ~ DD-WRT ~ 2node WDS-WPA2/AES ~ Buffalo WHR-G54S. 3node WPA2/AES ~ WRT54GS v6 (inc. WEP BSSID), WRT54G v2, WRT54G2 v1. *** Forum Rules ***
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 4. March 2011 @ 15:24
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Senior Member
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4. March 2011 @ 15:29 |
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Originally posted by creaky:
Bloody Windows 7, it lets me install a WMP54G then can't see my WPA2/AES network, only offers WPA Personal. Bag of crap!; ah well, off to google i go, if it won't work then XP goes back on there. I hope it's just a driver issue, (and its fixable), even my Puppy linux machines can cater for WPA2/AES.
Pah, humbug, grumble grumble :p
edit- i know what i didn't think of, Vista drivers, that should do it.
It should be a driver issue I've run into that exact thing but it has been a while so I forget what I did exactly to remedy the problem. No need to go back to XP though.
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