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The Official Cooling Thread!
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14. July 2007 @ 07:29 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
I don't really see many furry bits on it. I only have one Rolex but my father has quite a few. I could probably snag a cleaning cloth from one of his Rolex boxes. If after washing it it returns to its normal state, well what he doesnt know wont hurt him. Otherwise he will just get mad at me.
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14. July 2007 @ 07:37 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Once you've had thermal grease on a cloth I wouldn't want to use it again, the stuff is thick!



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14. July 2007 @ 09:43 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Damn, oh well I guess i'll just have to go out and buy some cloth.
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16. July 2007 @ 01:36 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Lol oh teh noez, Cloth's not exactly expensive, your processor is!



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16. July 2007 @ 07:05 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
So true.
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16. July 2007 @ 12:13 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Does anybody else here use a Thermalright Ultra 120 or the Extreme version heatsink. If so, which fan do you use, and what was it like to install and how well does it cool?



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Feltes45
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19. July 2007 @ 03:24 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
the cheapest, best, cooling system for a 939 system?
and im so confused by systems that arent in kits for watercooling. how do you connect different tubes to different blocks, what if they dont fit?

Saying Candy Corn mid-conversation can completely change the topic of any conversation. try it........unless its about candy corn.
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19. July 2007 @ 05:30 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Match the tubing sizes up!



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26. July 2007 @ 09:25 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
marsey99,
Quote:
does anyone know how truthfull the specs are for this fan?

I missed this post! Let me put it this way. It's what I use to help cool my computer. I run it at 1400 rpm and it's very quiet at that rpm. I also have an FM-83 80mm in the case cover, replacing the CPU duct of my Cooler Master Cavalier, and it runs at the minimum speed of 1300 rpm and even with overclocking my E4300 to 3.2GHz, my memory to 890 and my vidio card to 650/1600 and my chipset temps never exceed 41C and my CPU fan idles at between 800-1000 rpm. It cool and quiet (no pun intended). I would say the specs are reasonably accurate and they both move large quantities of air at very low rpms without a lot of noise!

At 1400 rpm the FM-121 moves about 70-75 cfm. At 1300 rpm the FM-83 moves about25 cfm. Both are exhausing, with a front 80mm stock intake fan that came with the case. It's 76F or about 24C in here right now and I am presently idling at 25-26C with a MB temp of 35C. My overclocked 7600 GT is at 47-48C. Through some fairly intense testing on another Forum just a few days ago, my Everest readings are reasonabl accurate!

The Silverstones are a bit expensive, but they do a great job and as far as I'm concerned, are worth every penny!

clock On,
theone :>}


GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor


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26. July 2007 @ 09:51 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
I've compared an 80CFM Antec, 70CFM Thermaltake and 70CFM Scythe to the Silverstones and concluded they push 70CFM at around 1700-1800rpm. At your stated speed of 1400rpm they push around 55CFM. This compares to a 1200rpm Noctua fan I had, although the noise that made was even more annoying than the vibration of the silverstones (Don't worry you won't experience this if you have a steel case).



Afterdawn Addict // Silent PC enthusiast // PC Build advisor // LANGamer Alias:Ratmanscoop
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26. July 2007 @ 10:12 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
sammorris,
Quote:
At your stated speed of 1400rpm they push around 55CFM.

Closer to 75 cfm at 1400 as guaged with a flowmeter (it's graduated in 5s)! It's meant to check airflow for vent stacks in government facilities. Most are Brass and ring like a bell if a certain airflow is exceeded. Can't have noise in a Hospital! LOL!!

Seriously, all Hospitals have these huge Nash, water injected vacuum pumps and have to be vented. They shake the concrete platform they are bolted to almost as bad as a boiler! They stand about 10 feet tall and are loud! The government insists on "Polished Brass" (their Spec) vent pipes! so they limit how much airflow can come out of them. Get to a certain point and the do ring! LOL!!

The flowmeter has a 5 inch rubber coupling that you slip over the end of the stack or between the pump and the vent stack and it has a little ball that moves in a tube response to the airflow. works great on the computer We have the same type of gadget for measuring vacuum as well!

Clock On,
theone :>}




GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor


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27. July 2007 @ 00:01 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Do you still have that Thermaltake fan lying around? If it's a 2000rpm version likemine, that should register around 100 on your scale then, that moved a lot more air than the silverstone does at 1400. I'm only going by the numbers from SPCR, I haven't measured them myself, but I can do a subjective comparison.



Afterdawn Addict // Silent PC enthusiast // PC Build advisor // LANGamer Alias:Ratmanscoop
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27. July 2007 @ 02:59 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
sammorrir,
Quote:
Do you still have that Thermaltake fan lying around? If it's a 2000rpm version likemine, that should register around 100 on your scale then, that moved a lot more air than the silverstone does at 1400. I'm only going by the numbers from SPCR, I haven't measured them myself, but I can do a subjective comparison.


Yes I do and it's the same model you bought. It's in the D-940 right now and it's airflow is reasonably equal to the silverstone running at 1400 rpm. It should be as it was rated at 73 cfm! No offense but the heck with SPCR. By their own admission, they don't even have a decent method to check airflow! In fact when I went to their site a while back they mentioned they were trying to come up with a better way to measure the airflow. My flowmeter is certified by the U.S. Department of Health Education and Welfare and is inspected and re-certified annually as is all my electronic x-ray test equipment! I just never thought to use it to check airflow on a computer! It works pretty much like a tool for syncronizing multiple carbs on cars and motorcycles and can read both airflow and vacuum depending on the direction of the airflow! It works on the same principle as a flow meter like they use in Gas machines for Anesthesia, with 2 glass tubes in a clear plastic housing, with little balls that rise and fall with the amount of airflow or vacuum. It has rubber couplings on it to put it directly into the vacuum or vent line! The couplings are rubber adapters that can be changed to fit various size pipes up to 6 inches and the 6" fits nicely over the outlet on the back of the computer. I just pull the side cover to insure nothing is interfering with the airflow, and hold it against the outlet. Since the coupling is rubber it fits pretty snug and the rubber gives enough to seat good against the case. I could get away with the 4" coupling if I wanted to check the 80mm on the side cover because while there's a raised portion, the 4" would cover it all!

H.E.W. originally wanted an all electronic tester but the cost proved to be too high. Even a mechanical device like this one is expensive, but no where near the projected $2500 cost for an all electronic one! The majority of the expense is in the housing itself as it requires very precise machining. Still there's only 2 moving parts, the balls in the glass tubes, so there's nothing short of a leak that could cause problems. Mine has never failed certification in all the years I've had it. You can't even buy them anymore as they have been out of production since the early 80s. Any amount of money says that someone in our Government made a lot of money off all this HEW crap! LOL!! What else is new!

Clock On,
theone :>)


GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor


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27. July 2007 @ 03:27 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
I agree on the substandard method of testing airflow at SPCR, sounds like they need one of those! However, In my personal experience (this goes for the Thermaltake and the Slverstone), the airflow of most fans at equal rpms is similar. The Noctua was slightly above the norm, but the irritating whine it made irrespective of the speed saw it's early retirement. This is probably unusual, but I like to think I have a good ear for frequencies. Just by hearing a sound of a fan and knowing how many blades it has, I can work out what speed is doing. I don't know if you have the same 'talent', but found the dominant frequency of the Thermaltake at full speed (2000rpm) is about 230Hz. Figures, because 2000rpm means 33.3rps, and with 7 blades, 7x33.3=233.3. Musically, that's a B Flat / A Sharp.
To get the silverstones at 1400rpm, the frequency I'm looking for is 210Hz, 1400rpm=23.3rps, 23.3x9=210. Musically, that's an A Flat / G Sharp. This is how I work the speed out. This is correct and absolute, and while fan rpm monitors usually work, sometimes they do give odd readings, so if you're able to check this way, go ahead.
This is the main reason why I dislike fans with lots of blades. They do have higher pressure so they're more suited for heatsinks, behind dust filters and in radiators, but the noise is higher pitched for the same airflow. That can get annoying.



Afterdawn Addict // Silent PC enthusiast // PC Build advisor // LANGamer Alias:Ratmanscoop
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27. July 2007 @ 14:50 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
sammorris,
Quote:
I agree on the substandard method of testing airflow at SPCR, sounds like they need one of those! However, In my personal experience (this goes for the Thermaltake and the Slverstone), the airflow of most fans at equal rpms is similar.

Actually they are not! There's so much more to it than that. I have to deal with that problem all the time when doing my turbine design work. There are 2 factors to consider and an additional one that those 2 combined make. You have a "Base" frequency which is determined by the rpm as any motor, fan etc. makes. That's why a mechanical tachometer works on any motor. Then you have the frequency that's determined by how the aggressive the blade is in cutting through the air. Then you have the harmonic frequency that is created by the differences between the first 2. It's the third part that determines whether the actual noise you hear is pleasant or annoying.

You've noticed at all fans start to make more noise by a wider factor at about 1600 rpm and get more annoying as the rpms increase. This is caused by cavitation, as you have reached the point where the blade can no longer cut smoothly through the air and starts chopping the air and smacking it with the blades as it's going through the fan, which is what causes the harmonic to begin with. That's why a helicopter makes that whop whop sound! It's the blade hitting the trailing air of the other blade or blades. That's another reason double ball fans, while mechanically make more noise than sleeve bearings are usually quieter overall, because their rpms stay closer to the rated speed so there's a smaller variance caused by less friction, in the rpms. Oilite bearings (sleeve) depend on the friction created by the shaft to release their lubricant, but in doing so create "stiction". Stiction causes a wider spread in rpms which causes the annoying surge you get with some fans. It's the design engineers job to minimize all these factors to come up with the quietest combination. He can't change the noise created by the base frequency rpm as that's fixed by the rpm frequency of the motor, but he can tune the design of the blade to be more efficient within a certain rpm range. He also knows that the cavitation of the air starts to be a factor at about 1600 rpm and will get worse as the rpms increase, and can't be gotten rid of, so he tries to make the blade cut through the air as cleanly as possible while still maintaining good airflow.

In other words, the 9 blade design will move more air, but will make more noise at a higher frequency than a 7 blade design as you get above 1600 rpm. Since none of the high performance fan manufacturers expect you to run their fans at max rpms because of the noise, they design the highest percentage of the maximum airflow below 1600-1800 rpm. Typically about 70-75% They only run faster than the more normal 2400-2500 rpm fans because of the power needed to turn the more aggressively designed blades. You can't give the motor more torque without increasing it's size, so the trade-off is a higher speed motor! If you were to take a typical 120mm fan rated at 37 cfm and double it's speed you wouldn't get any where near double the airflow, but you sure would get more than twice the noise! LOL!!

Imagine the fun I have refining designs in the 450,000 to 500,000 rpm range where they have to be most efficient at the highest rpms! These have to be within a 65-70 Dba range! ROFL!

Clock On,
theone


GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor


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27. July 2007 @ 15:06 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
yeah, the full force of one which I felt on tuesday - hygienist appointment, ugh.




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27. July 2007 @ 15:28 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
sammorris,
Quote:
yeah, the full force of one which I felt on tuesday - hygienist appointment, ugh.

You have my sympathy! It depends on whether the Hygenist uses an Ultrasonic scaler or does hand scaling! While the Ultrasonic is more annoying, the hand scaling is a lot more uncomfortable and a lot more painful, especially if it's deep scaling!

Clock On,
Russ :>(

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28. July 2007 @ 06:04 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Not entirely sure. Looks and feels like a miniature angle grinder, water and grit flying everywhere lol.



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1. August 2007 @ 05:04 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Hey I've seen people recommending people to put in many fans in a case to optimize airflow, but people tend to concentrate on the exhaust fans and not nearly as much on the intake fans. Now wouldn't a neutral airflow be the best for cooling?
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1. August 2007 @ 11:20 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
abuzar1,
Quote:
Now wouldn't a neutral airflow be the best for cooling?

If I'm understanding your question right, the answer would be no. Most cases today have air vents for specific purposes, such as mine does for cooling the video card, concentrating on exhaust with more exhaust than intake assures that plenty of air moves through those vents. The trick is, is to be able to remove all the heat from the case. As near as I can figure, the front fan gives better cooling in the area of the hard drives and promotes good airflow past them.

Between the two Silverstones and the power supply which all exhaust, I figure I have a minimum of 125 cfm moving through the case at all times. When the temps go up the power supply and the CPU fans both increase their speed and the cfm goes up as high as about 190 cfm or so! This increases the amount of air coming into the various vent holes in the case.

On mine, I've replaced the static CPU air duct with the 80mm Silverstone so that it is an exhaust rather than a static intake. I've found that the air duct airflow interferes with the path of the airflow of the CPU fan as it blows through the cooler. By making it an exhaust instead, nothing interferes with the cpu fan's ability to move the air cleanly through the cooler so the cpu fan runs slower and quieter! Typically between 800-1000 rpm. If I let the cpu fan run at full speed, the CPU temperature goes up a few degrees! I think that this is a by-product of the very dry air where I live in Southern California, as dry air doesn't absorb as much heat as humid air. By slowing the airflow through the cooler, it has time to collect more heat!

These are my typical fan speeds and temps.




From left to right: rear case fan, cpu fan, video card, core 1, core 2, CPU, chipset and CPU idle speed. I use C1E in the bios so the processor only runs full speed when needed. Makes no difference in benchmarks, either!

Clock On,
theone

GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor


This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 1. August 2007 @ 11:26

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4. August 2007 @ 10:30 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Alright so since my motherboard was in for repair I haven't had the chance to ever actually use a Core 2 Duo. Now that I'm about to get my motherboard on Monday I was wondering what is the best way to put arctic silver on my CPU, or should I put it on my heatsink? I am using the stock heatsink btw. I say the instructions on arctic silvers website but I just wanted to make sure if that was the best way.
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4. August 2007 @ 11:16 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
abuzar1,

Everyone and their mother have a "sure fire" way of applying Arctic Silver. The Arctic Silver people have a method shown on their website that works well.

http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silver_instructions.htm

Just click on Intel or AMD!

I follow their instructions only I do an X instead of a line. Seems to work well and I don't get much excess! I've tried other methods and haven't really seen any difference unless you get too much on it. The Techs at Artic Silver recommend applying a little bit to the cooler and then wiping it off lightly with a rag. They claim that this takes care of any imperfections in the surface of the cooler. If you have an Arctic Freezer series, I would use what comes on it as it works just as good as Arctic Silver or Ceramique! I've tried all 3 with the same cooler and they all work pretty much the same!

For the chipset heatsinks, I just clean everything real good and put a dab on the chip and re-mount the heatsink. Did wonders for my D-940 as it dropped the chipset temp 13C!

Clock On,
theone :>)

GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor


This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 4. August 2007 @ 11:17

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4. August 2007 @ 12:13 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
The method I use is to put a thin line that runs most of the way down the middle of the CPU, leaving the heatsink bare, and placing it on top.



Afterdawn Addict // Silent PC enthusiast // PC Build advisor // LANGamer Alias:Ratmanscoop
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4. August 2007 @ 13:02 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Alright so just a really thin line down the middle? Thanks.
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4. August 2007 @ 13:31 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
sammorris,
Quote:
The method I use is to put a thin line that runs most of the way down the middle of the CPU, leaving the heatsink bare, and placing it on top.

I just do the X. about 3/4" long, and about 1/8" wide right in the center of the CPU, because I can never remember which direction the core goes! LOL!! Works though, and there's little or no excess!

Clock On,
theone:>)


GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor


 
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