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The Official OC (OverClocking) Thread!
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NO Fanboy comments needed
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AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
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3. May 2009 @ 18:06 |
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What? Efficiency is DC output \ efficiency. i.e. a 500W PSU that's 80% efficient doesn't make it 400W, it means it draws 625W producing 500W. For someone that modified the house electrics to improve the voltage, I'm amazed you didn't know that, if I'm honest.
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AfterDawn Addict
7 product reviews
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3. May 2009 @ 19:18 |
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ahh. SO, since the *THERMALTAKE* PSU is 65% efficient, at max load, its drawing 430W AC while outputting 280W DC at max load. Is this correct? And then i'll shut up LOL!
To delete, or not to delete. THAT is the question! This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 3. May 2009 @ 19:18
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AfterDawn Addict
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3. May 2009 @ 19:23 |
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No, it's wrong, which is why I'm surprised it's what Russ believes.
The reason I under-rate these PSUs is because despite the fact that they claim they can produce 430W, realistically it's very unlikely that they can, since they are actually lower rated PSUs with a different number slapped on them. A good brand PSU like a Nexus, though still rated 430W CAN produce 430W DC. Contrastingly, a really bad brand like Rosewill or Raidmax won't even manage 300W even if rated 700W. This does not mean it is only 43% efficient, it means it is simply a bad PSU. The same applies for the Tt and CM units, but to a lesser extent, and unlike the Rosewill and Raidmax units, Thermaltakes and Coolermasters are unlikely to go bang if overstressed, they'll just shut down or become unstable.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 3. May 2009 @ 19:27
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AfterDawn Addict
7 product reviews
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3. May 2009 @ 19:34 |
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Wow, PSU's are beginning to intimidate me LOL! I think that might be the manufacturers plan. Slap a BOLD number on it, and hope it attracts some attention, MORE OR LESS!
Well...perhaps some of you will find this interesting.
http://www.motherboards.org/articles/guides/1487_7.html
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AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
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3. May 2009 @ 19:37 |
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Some examples:
Corsair CX 400W: 360W 12V (90%)
Coolermaster Extreme 460W: 312W 12V (68%) Estimated actual rating 345W
Thermaltake 430W: 216W 12V (50%) Estimated actual rating 240W
Corsair TX 750W: 720W 12V (96%)
Coolermaster R.P.P. 750W: 648W 12V (86%) Estimated actual rating 675W
Tt Toughpower 750W: Max 12V unspecified
Don't be intimidated by PSUs. Just don't buy halfway-house brands like Coolermaster and Thermaltake for powerful systems.
People like Russ get away with these just fine as they don't use them to run powerful gaming systems. Despite using a 7750BE, Russ' system is unlikely to draw more than 120W or so at full load because of the graphics card he uses, so it doesn't matter even if his CM unit can only produce 250W, it'd still power his system twice over.
Your system on the other hand actually needs a reasonable amount of stable power, which is why you should pay more to get a decent PSU like a Corsair, Seasonic, Antec (within reason), Nexus or Silverstone.
That efficiency graph mirrors that of any PSU. Use next to no power and any PSU is really inefficient. Max one out and it also becomes less efficient, but not to the same extent.
The efficiency only drops to 71% at full load on that PSU because it is a very bad brand, Ultra. My Zalman for instance, even when drawing the full 850W, only drops to 78-79%.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 3. May 2009 @ 19:39
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AfterDawn Addict
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3. May 2009 @ 20:24 |
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Originally posted by sammorris:
What? Efficiency is DC output \ efficiency. i.e. a 500W PSU that's 80% efficient doesn't make it 400W, it means it draws 625W producing 500W. For someone that modified the house electrics to improve the voltage, I'm amazed you didn't know that, if I'm honest.
Sam,
I know that, but you guys had been discussing using the Killa A Watt earlier for measuring wattage, and I honestly believed you were going by that! My Bad! You had me scratching my head as to how you could measure the efficiency of the DC output that way! ROFL!! I have seen custom wattage meters that go in between the PSU and whatever the PSU is powering. I saw one at NASA at the Kennedy Space Center once, that was pretty elaborate when they were working on the computers for the Apollo missions. All the outputs from the PSU plugged into it, and then you plugged it's lines into the various places and components in the computer to measure the wattage. Knowing the Government, it probably cost half a million dollars to build! ROFLMSOAO!!
With the house electrics, the load is still there, it's just applied to the the Boost transformer the line is powered by! Raising the output voltage, just negates the effects of lower than normal voltage at the computer mains themselves, allowing the computer to run at supply line voltages as low a 92-93v and still have enough voltage for the computer to run normally and not shut down or reset when the voltage is real low!
Russ
GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor
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AfterDawn Addict
7 product reviews
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3. May 2009 @ 20:28 |
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I wont be cheap on PSU's anymore! In the future I will do MUCH more homework before purchasing!
On another note, I'd like to try a different CPU stress test. Please dont suggest Orthos, because it seems to only support dual core. and when I tried a second instance, it simply added it to the same Cores that were already Stressed. Is prime 95 simply my best bet? Should I wait anyway, since windows 7RC is released tuesday!
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AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
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3. May 2009 @ 21:44 |
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IntelBurnTest and OCCT are hardcore stress tests. They'll run your CPU hot as hell, but they're a reasonable indicator of performance. Both should be run for a significant period of time though.
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AfterDawn Addict
7 product reviews
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3. May 2009 @ 21:54 |
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Hmmmm. I assumed given its name, Intelburntest wouldnt work with an amd. LOL, Guess I shouldn't assume. I'll try both of those. Thanks.
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AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
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3. May 2009 @ 21:56 |
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It's only Linpack. I think it works with any CPU.
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AfterDawn Addict
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3. May 2009 @ 21:59 |
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Originally posted by omegaman7:
Hmmmm. I assumed given its name, Intelburntest wouldnt work with an amd. LOL, Guess I shouldn't assume. I'll try both of those. Thanks.
Oman7,
Linpack works with any CPU as far as I know. I've used it on AMDs in the past without any issues. Works fine on mine!
Russ
GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor
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Red_Maw
Senior Member
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3. May 2009 @ 22:14 |
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Linpack should work with any cpu, just make sure to keep an eye on the temps because they will get pretty high. From my experience it was at least 10C higher then anything else I've ever run even with a higher OC.
Sam,
In one post you said Tt Toughpower's were okay/good psu's but left them off the list for high end systems. Should I take that as an indication that for my next build a better would be a good idea?
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AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
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3. May 2009 @ 22:16 |
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Not at all, Toughpowers are still good PSUs. I don't list them as recommended because they get very noisy very quickly in a demanding system, and I don't mean not silent, I mean really noisy.
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AfterDawn Addict
1 product review
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3. May 2009 @ 22:24 |
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Just to stir things up a bit. The RS-460 has two 12v-18A rails and 12 X 18= 216 watts and since there is only a total of 312W for both rails 432W doesn't add up. Now if we took 15A X 12V we would get 180W on each rail and that times 2 would come to 360W or exactly the amount of watts available on the RS-500. So one could extrapolate that the RS-460 produces less than 15A per rail and that the RS-500 just makes it to 15A over two rails. Now look at the corsair single 12v rail unit rated for 60A and you will see that it actually comes close to its rated output. The rails on the CoolerMasters' individually can hit their rated 18A but not across both rails at the same time.
" Please Read!!! Post your questions only in This Thread or they will go unanswered:
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AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
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3. May 2009 @ 22:27 |
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Soph: That is indeed sometimes how the wattage works, depending on how the PSU is wired inside. Sometimes the reason for two separate limits is the limitation of the master output, and secondary regulation stages. Two of the six 12V rails on the ZM850-HP for instance have a higher rating than the rest.
A lot of "multi-rail" PSUs such as the Tt Toughpower, however, are single rail PSUs with four wires coming out of the same solder joint. The Toughpower 750W is indeed a 60A 12V rail just like the TX750, claiming to be 4 16A rails (which I see they've now changed to 18, even though the unit hasn't been changed electrically)
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AfterDawn Addict
7 product reviews
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3. May 2009 @ 23:47 |
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Well...OCCT lasted almost EXACTLY the same amount of time that Prime 95 did! I find that VERY curious. Something is failing at the same time every time. I suppose I can try some voltage increases across the board, perhaps a NB frequency adjustment as well. Dont worry, I wont make that decision lightly. I'll do some homework first LOL!
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Red_Maw
Senior Member
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3. May 2009 @ 23:54 |
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Originally posted by sammorris:
Not at all, Toughpowers are still good PSUs. I don't list them as recommended because they get very noisy very quickly in a demanding system, and I don't mean not silent, I mean really noisy.
hehe it isn't possible to hear the Toughpower over the rest of the system. Thanks for the clarification.
My next build will be of the silent type if doesn't cost too much, already getting sick of listening to it lol.
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AfterDawn Addict
7 product reviews
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4. May 2009 @ 00:15 |
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Well...test number 2. I removed 2 sticks for sake of argument. This time, the computer did not restart, I actually got an error report. It almost sounds like, in test number one, the PSU gave up, and restarted. In test number 2, without the other 2 sticks of Ram, the PSU suffered less stress, with enough time to see an error report. Could my PSU be sooooo close to borderline that removing 2 sticks effected it enough. LOL! That would be my luck!!! I'll play with the NB a little first.
Well...ive tried several settings with the Ram. Stock speed, underclocked, timings, etc. Nothing seems to work here. Still looking into the Northbrige. According to some sites, the Northbridge plays an important role in overclocking!
To delete, or not to delete. THAT is the question! This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 4. May 2009 @ 01:11
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AfterDawn Addict
4 product reviews
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4. May 2009 @ 08:32 |
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With Intels the Northbridge is EVERYTHING to an OC. With AMDs less so because of the memory controller, but it's still important.
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AfterDawn Addict
7 product reviews
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4. May 2009 @ 13:43 |
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I believe others with my board may benefit from this. So i'll post it here.
To enable ACC in F3 bios(possibly others) on the GA-MA790GP-DS4H, you need to press CTRL + F1 simultaneously on the main bios page. The screen will flash for an instance. NOW, enter Mainboard tweaker and the setting is on the top :D
It would appear, to see this setting, one needs to execute the mentioned instructions each time entering the bios.
Edit - Im running the F3 bios, not F2 LOL!
To delete, or not to delete. THAT is the question! This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 5. May 2009 @ 17:53
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AfterDawn Addict
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4. May 2009 @ 14:11 |
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Originally posted by omegaman7:
I believe others with my board may benefit from this. So i'll post it here.
To enable ACC in F2 bios(possibly others) on the GA-MA790GP-DS4H, you need to press CTRL + F1 simultaneously on the main bios page. The screen will flash for an instance. NOW, enter Mainboard tweaker and the setting is on the top :D
It would appear, to see this setting, one needs to execute the mentioned instructions each time entering the bios.
Oman7,
You have to do that to be able to save the settings too! You can make some changes, but CPU, memory and most overclock settings won't apply. The idea (I guess), is to keep other people out of settings that might damage your computer. Drove me completely crazy with my 965P-DS3 until I spotted the fine print at the bottom of the MIT page! LOL!! I had never seen that before!
Russ
GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor
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AfterDawn Addict
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4. May 2009 @ 14:16 |
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Originally posted by omegaman7:
I believe others with my board may benefit from this. So i'll post it here.
To enable ACC in F2 bios(possibly others) on the GA-MA790GP-DS4H, you need to press CTRL + F1 simultaneously on the main bios page. The screen will flash for an instance. NOW, enter Mainboard tweaker and the setting is on the top :D
It would appear, to see this setting, one needs to execute the mentioned instructions each time entering the bios.
Oman7,
You have to do that to be able to save the settings too! You can make some changes, but CPU, memory and most overclock settings won't apply. The idea (I guess), is to keep other people out of settings that might damage your computer. Drove me completely crazy with my 965P-DS3 until I spotted the fine print at the bottom of the MIT page! LOL!! I had never seen that before!
BTW! With the ACC that's in the bios, there's very little useful adjustment. It's far more comprehensive, using the Overdrive. Also if you are not aware of it, the AMD OD 3.0 now works with the last two bios revisions. If you need a copy, let me know!
Russ
GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 4. May 2009 @ 14:17
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AfterDawn Addict
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4. May 2009 @ 14:33 |
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You have to press Ctrl+F1 to save settings? Which ones?
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AfterDawn Addict
7 product reviews
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4. May 2009 @ 15:22 |
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Well...this is rather disconcerting!!! I loaded optimized defaults on the tweaker page, in an attempt to restore my individual core temps. I am still unable to monitor my core temperatures! Oh, but now EPP is enabled. Isn't that some Shiznit!!! LOL! Im really at a loss here. Perhaps I should just flash to the F4 bios, bring it back to 3.5Ghz and be happy, til I can get a REAL PSU! I know ive said this before, but now I truly mean it LOL! Funds are just coming up short right now.
It would appear that EPP will be enabled, so long as memory clock is on Auto. Im still uncertain why ACC has screwed with seeing my individual core temps. :(
To delete, or not to delete. THAT is the question! This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 4. May 2009 @ 15:43
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AfterDawn Addict
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4. May 2009 @ 15:58 |
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Originally posted by sammorris:
You have to press Ctrl+F1 to save settings? Which ones?
Sam,
If you change the OC settings without first pressing Ctrl + F1 in the main setup screen, it will not save the settings! It shows them as set in the setup, but re-boot and go back into the setup and the settings you set will not be applied! They will have reverted back to the settings you tried to change. That's one of the reasons I always advise people to make their adjustments, like voltages and such, Save and exit, and go right back into the setup to make sure everything is set right, particularly with CPU and memory voltage, as a mistake there could be a fatal error!
Best Regards,
Russ
GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor
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