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The Official PC building thread - 4th Edition
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In case you want to ask something like "What components should I pick for my new PC?", start a new topic to our PC building forum.
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23. June 2011 @ 15:45 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
It's in the past, but Sam is not who I was referring to...



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23. June 2011 @ 18:44 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Originally posted by Mr-Movies:
With fans it is more about bearings than materials. Ball bearing fans typically are better although some sleeve bearing fans are good, ball bearing are much better and last longer, less vibration. The plastic if the fan is balanced shouldn't matter the drive system does although rigidity will be a factor if speed isn't constant. If the fan blades seem brittle they are probably more rigid and would be better but if they are cracking and falling apart then it can be a problem.

I typically use the old black muffin fans but have clear with LED's too and the only difference I see is the quality of build, speed control, and bearing style. Again the color doesn't make a difference.
Steve,
The Silverstone FN-121BL, clear w/blue lights, with Rifle Bearings was the first ever non-ball bearing to survive a year in the harsh environment we live in. The Scythe Slipstreams are standing up well and all my fans are very quiet. Lessor fans don't last 6 months. The magnetic sealed ones are the worst, as the particle size of the dust is finer than Talcum powder. It get's in the magnetic seals and destroys the seal by buffing off the magnetic surface, and they soon come to a screeching halt. My Scythes are all over two years, and the FN-121BL is over 3 years old, and was used in my previous Intel build. Because the clear acrylic is so smooth and shiny, dust does not stick to it that easily, so you don't get a lot of the buildup you get with most black fans or the opaque clear ones. Canned air or a compressor blow gun cleans them off real good. Just don't spin the blade with the blow gun, the impeller will blow!

Best Regards,
Russ

GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor


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23. June 2011 @ 19:41 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Originally posted by theonejrs:
Originally posted by Mr-Movies:
With fans it is more about bearings than materials. Ball bearing fans typically are better although some sleeve bearing fans are good, ball bearing are much better and last longer, less vibration. The plastic if the fan is balanced shouldn't matter the drive system does although rigidity will be a factor if speed isn't constant. If the fan blades seem brittle they are probably more rigid and would be better but if they are cracking and falling apart then it can be a problem.

I typically use the old black muffin fans but have clear with LED's too and the only difference I see is the quality of build, speed control, and bearing style. Again the color doesn't make a difference.
Steve,
The Silverstone FN-121BL, clear w/blue lights, with Rifle Bearings was the first ever non-ball bearing to survive a year in the harsh environment we live in. The Scythe Slipstreams are standing up well and all my fans are very quiet. Lessor fans don't last 6 months. The magnetic sealed ones are the worst, as the particle size of the dust is finer than Talcum powder. It get's in the magnetic seals and destroys the seal by buffing off the magnetic surface, and they soon come to a screeching halt. My Scythes are all over two years, and the FN-121BL is over 3 years old, and was used in my previous Intel build. Because the clear acrylic is so smooth and shiny, dust does not stick to it that easily, so you don't get a lot of the buildup you get with most black fans or the opaque clear ones. Canned air or a compressor blow gun cleans them off real good. Just don't spin the blade with the blow gun, the impeller will blow!

Best Regards,
Russ
I like Scythe too but there are others that are good. I'm not a sleeve fan at all but have used them I much prefer ball bearings but they have gotten much more expensive in the recent past. I agree that the original muffin fans do get dirty I just periodically blow them out as well as my heatsinks and PSU. There used to be a place near me that sold muffin fans at a buck a piece but they are now gone unfortunately and these were ball bearing type fans with speed control, what a shame. I can imagine the magnetic fans would be a problem, I wouldn't want them for other reasons as well.

Could you make a video of one of the impeller blowing off I'd like to see that? LOL How about trying to crack one with a low "C" on your Wonder Organ that might be cool too!

This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 23. June 2011 @ 19:43

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23. June 2011 @ 20:57 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
The testing environment is a lot less harsh here wrt dust, but I have had a couple of fans fail. A Thermaltake Thunderblade (not really surprising, very cheap and tacky), and one Scythe Slipstream, out of the 6. I've like-for-like replaced it and so far none of the others have failed.
Although I don't really want to start the S-ATA cable debate again, the mention of test environments does remind me of a possible cause of the S-ATA cable failures - my PCs move often here, to/fro LAN parties, and thus make 26 road journeys each year (or rather, will have done until this summer, when that will end). I did note that with the cable that failed 2 before this one (the one on Voyager's WD20EARS which had previously been used with the HD753LJ), the fault was intermittent but was always either provoked or cured by the system being moved, despite seemingly being securely attached at both ends.



Afterdawn Addict // Silent PC enthusiast // PC Build advisor // LANGamer Alias:Ratmanscoop
PC Specs page -- http://my.afterdawn.com/sammorris/blog_entry.cfm/11247
updated 10-Dec-13
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23. June 2011 @ 21:17 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Voyager computers are one of the computers I use to build and test, one of several brand names from the same manufacture. Your cable could either have a cracked internal conductor or the SATA connector itself is a little too sloppy and gets skewed. It could of course be the male side of the connector, on the drive interface itself as well, as I've seen the foils and/or blade crack or even break off. The whole SATA interface is poor at best but cheap to produce which is why it exists in the first place. Replacing the cable is your best bet but if it still happens it could be on the interface and could also be a cold solder on the matting connector. The fact that movement cures it temporarily would point in those directions. Intermittent problems are always the most difficult to resolve. Before you change the cable you could bring up the disk manager and wiggle the cable around to see if the drive disappears from the manager and go from there.
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23. June 2011 @ 21:23 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
I'm not referring to Voyager as a brand name, it's the name I have allocated to one of my homebuilt PCs. The cable on this particular drive was replaced in April and has not been problematic since.



Afterdawn Addict // Silent PC enthusiast // PC Build advisor // LANGamer Alias:Ratmanscoop
PC Specs page -- http://my.afterdawn.com/sammorris/blog_entry.cfm/11247
updated 10-Dec-13
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25. June 2011 @ 15:03 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
The 3Tb WD30EZRSDTL is in :D I had to run the X1 S-ata card to my secondary PCI-e 16X slot. Trust me, I have to. Lets just say my GPU has a lot to do with it blocking the X1 slots, and my bottom PCI slot may be dead, due to a bad video cap card :( So I can't move my Sata PCI card.

I'm doing a long format. I know, I know, not really necessary, but I do insist on doing it this way. I estimate upwards of 6hrs to completion. 2794.39GB will soon be mine :D

I used the GPT partition by the way. I believe it's necessary for these drives.

I'm naming her "Shani" which means wonderful ♥



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25. June 2011 @ 18:17 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
GPT is indeed compulsary for drives larger than I think 2100GB. I stopped short of naming my drives in a manner like that, simply because while I wouldn't want to replace any of my PCs as an entire unit, I could replace a hard disk without too much consequence, and indeed have sold some of my old drives in the past. Before I had an alphabetised uniform file structure though they did need distinctive names, and hence the naming system that I use.



Afterdawn Addict // Silent PC enthusiast // PC Build advisor // LANGamer Alias:Ratmanscoop
PC Specs page -- http://my.afterdawn.com/sammorris/blog_entry.cfm/11247
updated 10-Dec-13
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25. June 2011 @ 18:20 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
THe naming scheme is more for luck than anything. I could be just as content using a numbering/lettering scheme :p Eventually, i'll likely run out of the alphabet though. Gamma Echo just doesn't sound as pretty as Ulani, or Samantha or whatever. More sounds like a military strategy LOL!



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25. June 2011 @ 18:21 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
I didn't bother with simple alphabetised names as they are a bit too boring :P



Afterdawn Addict // Silent PC enthusiast // PC Build advisor // LANGamer Alias:Ratmanscoop
PC Specs page -- http://my.afterdawn.com/sammorris/blog_entry.cfm/11247
updated 10-Dec-13
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25. June 2011 @ 22:56 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
8hrs and 13min later, slow full format complete. It's now itching for data LOL! Now I want another one :D Or two!



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26. June 2011 @ 00:40 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
This? What does "This" mean? I smell something sour...



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26. June 2011 @ 00:46 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Originally posted by omegaman7:
This? What does "This" mean? I smell something sour...
I smell something worse than that, don't be clicking on anything.
ddp
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26. June 2011 @ 00:59 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
idiot deleted
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28. June 2011 @ 17:55 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Devastating day for me :( I was gonna trade my Samsung 24" monitor, for my brothers 17" Dell, and get $100 taken off of what I owe him. I was hooking it up to his computer, and I started swinging the DVI cable by lifting the monitor itself as high as the ceiling. Well... the ceiling isn't alone. There is also a ceiling fan there. Doh! The blades came into contact with the LCD. Needless to say, the LCD is not very tough. I plugged it in, to assess the damage. The LCD is toast. Perhaps one day I can replace the panel in it. But not anytime soon. As I'm sure you can imagine, I gave the fan a very dirty look. But of course, I'm the one to blame ;) I'll never look at it the same though.

THankfully, this last weekend I got a Samsung SyncMaster 955DF CRT monitor at my mothers yard sale. Free! My grandmother let me have it for all of my help. It has a "0.20mm Superfine Pitch". Quite possibly one of the best pictures I've seen. Had to tweak a few settings, but it looks very good. I may still tweak a few more settings. But at least I have a monitor while I save for the Dell. I don't think I'll make that mistake again...



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28. June 2011 @ 18:19 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Unless you can find another 24" flat panel with a bad PS or something your Sammy will be useless. A new replacement panel will cost you as much or more than buying a whole new monitor.

Lessons learned: Turn ceiling fan off before holding monitor above head. Good sticky note!
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28. June 2011 @ 18:25 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
LOL! Indeed. Believe me, I'm beating myself in the head for this. I may get lucky on the panel one day. Ebay is beautiful every now and again. You're probably right though :p



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28. June 2011 @ 18:33 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Originally posted by omegaman7:
LOL! Indeed. Believe me, I'm beating myself in the head for this. I may get lucky on the panel one day. Ebay is beautiful every now and again. You're probably right though :p
Oman7,
What is the model number of the Samsung 24"?

Russ

GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor


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28. June 2011 @ 18:38 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
2433BW :( It was a beauty... I imagine the panel is common amongst the Samsung monitors. E.g. multiple models use the same one. I'll have to research it tonight. Gotta go to work right now.



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28. June 2011 @ 18:46 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
RMA?



MGR (Micro Gaming Rig) .|. Intel Q6600 @ 3.45GHz .|. Asus P35 P5K-E/WiFi .|. 4GB 1066MHz Geil Black Dragon RAM .|. Samsung F60 SSD .|. Corsair H50-1 Cooler .|. Sapphire 4870 512MB .|. Lian Li PC-A70B .|. Be Queit P7 Dark Power Pro 850W PSU .|. 24" 1920x1200 DGM (MVA Panel) .|. 24" 1920x1080 Dell (TN Panel) .|.
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28. June 2011 @ 18:47 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
That is the same as one of mine and yes you're right they are pretty much common as to being replaced. They mount and connect pretty much the same.
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28. June 2011 @ 18:49 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
One, i'm unsure of the warranty, which shouldn't be up. Two, I doubt very seriously that the warranty covers damaged LCD due to accident.



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28. June 2011 @ 19:01 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
It won't, unfortunately. Probably too small a value to claim on household insurance accidental damage cover (because it'll raise your future premium if you do).



Afterdawn Addict // Silent PC enthusiast // PC Build advisor // LANGamer Alias:Ratmanscoop
PC Specs page -- http://my.afterdawn.com/sammorris/blog_entry.cfm/11247
updated 10-Dec-13
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28. June 2011 @ 19:28 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Originally posted by omegaman7:
One, i'm unsure of the warranty, which shouldn't be up. Two, I doubt very seriously that the warranty covers damaged LCD due to accident.
Kevin,
Here's the Samsung part number of the screen. Shouldn't be too expensive, as it's a TN panel 1900x1200. Fairly simple to change!

LTM240W1-L01

Russ

GigaByte 990FXA-UD5 - AMD FX-8320 @4.0GHz @1.312v - Corsair H-60 liquid CPU Cooler - 4x4 GB GSkill RipJaws DDR3/1866 Cas8, 8-9-9-24 - Corsair 400-R Case - OCZ FATAL1TY 550 watt Modular PSU - Intel 330 120GB SATA III SSD - WD Black 500GB SATA III - WD black 1 TB Sata III - WD Black 500GB SATA II - 2 Asus DRW-24B1ST DVD-Burner - Sony 420W 5.1 PL-II Suround Sound - GigaByte GTX550/1GB 970 Mhz Video - Asus VE247H 23.6" HDMI 1080p Monitor


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29. June 2011 @ 01:23 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
It happened in my brothers house. I won't ask him to use his insurance for such a low value item. He didn't even use it for a $500 HDTV. I'm biting the bullet on this one. One day, I may get a replacement LCD panel. But I won't hold my breath. If it costs me more than 100$, I won't see the need in resurrecting it. Brand new ones go for little over 200 now.

Thanks for the part # russ. I'll likely make use of it :D



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