|
|
|
Ps3 YLoD Attempted fix's. Any more ideas?
|
|
|
onehanded
Member
|
3. January 2011 @ 07:54 |
Link to this message
|
|
people on her need to think before they experiment.
The board is being heated over the cpu and gpu.
meanwhile,the heat is spreading throughout the board.
Some of the chips on the board cand only take around 100 degrees before they fail.
Repairing with a heatgun may fix temporary,but will only damage the components.
If you are reflowing,you need to eliminate the other components from deteriorating
The fixes you are trying are only tempory
|
|
Advertisement
|
|
|
|
|
xboxps3wow
Newbie
|
7. January 2011 @ 04:02 |
Link to this message
|
I used the heatgun 3 times and nothing helps :( I have the fat 40gb ps3 that I bought in 2007 and all it does is shows blue led, then starts blinking red. I did the fan test and that went fine... I could eject the game and everything.
This happened in the middle of the game, I was playing cod and it just turned off. I tried to turn it back on it and it did for about 30 seconds (got to the log in screen) and they it turned off again.. since then I can't even get it to show anything on TV.
Like I said, I heated both chips and the smaller chips as well and nothing..
|
|
opskie
Newbie
|
13. January 2011 @ 09:42 |
Link to this message
|
My ps3 yloded bout 2months ago, since ive got the ylod problem i still manage to power on the console though after SEVERAL minutes of SEVERAL on/off attempts, then when i put in "God of War3", 5mins into the game the fan gets so loud the ps3 turns itself off (happens with most of the games i have too), but weirdly enough when the ps3 manages to power on it stays on as long as im only playing a movie from dvd/bluray/usb or music till i manually turn it off, which to me is not really processor demanding.
Following gilksy's guide/videos i tried to fix the ylod myself, i took the console apart, cleaned off all the dust inside the casing and the ps3 FAN (not that much dust in there though), then for the cpu/gpu i was only able to get a "ST200 thermal compound" as opposed to what was actually recommended, after the whole process i put the console back together again, tried to power it on & still got a YLOD!, after i do the usual several on/off attempts again the ps3 manages to power on, though this time around when i put in the "God of War3 game" no fan noise again but console still shuts itself off after about 5mins into the game.
Pls how do i get this problem fixed?? is there a permanent solution to the YLOD??? i heard after ylod's been fixed successfully it still gonna happen again after a while.
Selling it off right now is not an option cos i still have to get it to work even if anyone's gonna buy it, then getting a new console right now is not in my budget for now and obviously selling this one i currently have after i fix the ylod wont get me the same amount to purchase a new one unless i add more, which im so not ready for right now.
So i need a way to get this fixed.
Thnx.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 14. January 2011 @ 03:24
|
|
opskie
Newbie
|
14. January 2011 @ 02:44 |
Link to this message
|
Originally posted by colinjest:
first things first try a liberal coating of flux on your next reflow!
if only i had a yloded ps3 to do it on!
hello colin,
My ps3 yloded bout 2months ago, since ive got the ylod problem i still manage to power on the console though after SEVERAL minutes of SEVERAL on/off attempts, then when i put in "God of War3", 5mins into the game the fan gets so loud the ps3 turns itself off (happens with most of the games i have too), but weirdly enough when the ps3 manages to power on it stays on as long as im only playing a movie from dvd/bluray/usb or music till i manually turn it off, which to me is not really processor demanding.
Following your guide/videos i tried to fix the ylod myself, i took the console apart, cleaned off all the dust inside the casing and the ps3 FAN (not that much dust in there though), then for the cpu/gpu i was only able to get a "ST200 thermal compound" as opposed to what was actually recommended, after the whole process i put the console back together again, tried to power it on & still got a YLOD!, after i do the usual several on/off attempts again the ps3 manages to power on, though this time around when i put in the "God of War3 game" no fan noise again but console still shuts itself off after about 5mins into the game.
Pls how do i get this problem fixed?? is there a permanent solution to the YLOD??? i heard after ylod's been fixed successfully it still gonna happen again after a while.
Selling it off right now is not an option cos i still have to get it to work even if anyone's gonna buy it, then getting a new console right now is not in my budget for now and obviously selling this one i currently have after i fix the ylod wont get me the same amount to purchase a new one unless i add more, which im so not ready for right now.
So i need a way to get this fixed.
Thnx.
|
|
gnar66
Newbie
|
19. January 2011 @ 21:56 |
Link to this message
|
so,
im new to this.
i have been reading this for a some time and not sure if it dead yet.
i have been fixing systems sense the ps2 was hot. i have been trying on this YLOD fix as well. i use a heat gun flux and arctic 5. i found that dynx and other compounds run at higher temperatures. it seams like one ps3 will work longer then a another. some i have done with out flux and have been kicking around 2mo, most not. some with flux are still working (time frame under 2mo) and some i have to re fix.
i think temperature is a big factory.
has anyone tried a laser temperature gun on the back of a good working nonYLOD ps3??? and one that has been fixed from the YLOD. say that has been running for 15- 20min.?
i am going to try to find one cheep somewhere. ebay has them for $16.00 and up but shipping is like 20 days to the US. $30 to $40 for US seller.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 19. January 2011 @ 21:59
|
|
onehanded
Member
|
20. January 2011 @ 06:27 |
Link to this message
|
|
Try flux underneath cpu and gpu.
I used the flux paste and put it into a tube.
I heated the tube enough to get the paste into liquid form
I then applied the flux into the sides of the gpu and cpu on both sides of the board to make sure I put it where it is needed
I heted the gpu up on both sides for around 40 seconds each.
I only did the cpu for around 30 seconds.
Sucess with out any problems
|
|
gnar66
Newbie
|
20. January 2011 @ 12:43 |
Link to this message
|
Originally posted by onehanded:
Try flux underneath cpu and gpu.
I used the flux paste and put it into a tube.
I heated the tube enough to get the paste into liquid form
I then applied the flux into the sides of the gpu and cpu on both sides of the board to make sure I put it where it is needed
I heted the gpu up on both sides for around 40 seconds each.
I only did the cpu for around 30 seconds.
Sucess with out any problems
how hot was your gun set to? the low on mine is 550F.
|
|
danuk76
Newbie
|
20. January 2011 @ 12:57 |
Link to this message
|
Originally posted by onehanded:
Try flux underneath cpu and gpu.
I used the flux paste and put it into a tube.
I heated the tube enough to get the paste into liquid form
I then applied the flux into the sides of the gpu and cpu on both sides of the board to make sure I put it where it is needed
I heted the gpu up on both sides for around 40 seconds each.
I only did the cpu for around 30 seconds.
Sucess with out any problems
crazy stuff
Sony ripped me off with their launch model ps3, just remember sony every loser wins
|
|
onehanded
Member
|
20. January 2011 @ 13:26 |
Link to this message
|
|
It was on the low setting
I bought the earlex heatgun from B&Q
I got the flux and put it in a syringe
like I said I heated it up so it went to liquid in the syringe and applied it on both sides of the gpu and cpu.
I then heated up bothe gpu and cpu.
DOOOOOOO NOT HEAT UP THE CHIPS!!!!
All you have to do is heat up both what I said and it works.
Also when you heat the gpu and cpu,just heat uparound the centre of them,because there are chips underneath the rsx cell on all 4 sides
|
|
onehanded
Member
|
20. January 2011 @ 13:28 |
Link to this message
|
|
I am gonna do a mod for the fan as well so I will keep you informed
|
|
JahJediP
Newbie
|
20. January 2011 @ 13:52 |
Link to this message
|
Good day people,
I'm a new memember, because my ps3 80g MGS4 bundle ylod on me on dec 13, 2010. i got it from amazon, new factory seal on March 9,2009. Because of this I learned alot of whats going on and totally suprise the hush hush of this matter for i never knew about ylod until then. Now, i'm not a hardcore gamer, never really played/enjoyed my ps3 due to family duties and i always keep my ps3 as clean as possible in open space. I figure i should never overheat. but on that morning, when my wife turn on the ps3 by pressing the eject button, prince of persia came out, and she put in a dvd for the baby, it went ylod.
now, i tryed the heat gun and stuff six times and all have fail. i took the dvd out by dissambling the drive, which was quite easy, and reset it. it actually beeps like it should when there is no disc in it. but if i try to put a disc in, it wants to boot up, but ylod still. OH, the fan does spin before it shuts off.
I never had the money to send it back or to get a slim. I call Sony just to report the problem and hopefully, it goes into their statistics of fail ps3.
I just wanted to share my story, for now i have a new hobby, trying to figure out how to fix my ps3. There is more to this story, all the details, and i have plenty of photos.
If anyone has a system like my, or know someone, i would like to know if theirs still running.
Thanks for listening.
Jah Blessings.
|
|
onehanded
Member
|
20. January 2011 @ 14:02 |
Link to this message
|
Originally posted by onehanded:
It was on the low setting
I bought the earlex heatgun from B&Q
I got the flux and put it in a syringe
like I said I heated it up so it went to liquid in the syringe and applied it on both sides of the gpu and cpu.
I then heated up bothe gpu and cpu.
DOOOOOOO NOT HEAT UP THE CHIPS!!!!
All you have to do is heat up both what I said and it works.
Also when you heat the gpu and cpu,just heat uparound the centre of them,because there are chips underneath the rsx cell on all 4 sides
330 degrees is the heat setting
|
|
gnar66
Newbie
|
21. January 2011 @ 13:09 |
Link to this message
|
Originally posted by onehanded:
It was on the low setting
I bought the earlex heatgun from B&Q
I got the flux and put it in a syringe
like I said I heated it up so it went to liquid in the syringe and applied it on both sides of the gpu and cpu.
I then heated up bothe gpu and cpu.
DOOOOOOO NOT HEAT UP THE CHIPS!!!!
All you have to do is heat up both what I said and it works.
Also when you heat the gpu and cpu,just heat uparound the centre of them,because there are chips underneath the rsx cell on all 4 sides
i got some kester flux of ebay it was like 8bucks. its brown and thick.so far i have fixed 3 ps3s and 4 360s. going on 2.5 weeks. im down to try anything. where did you that flux?
|
|
gnar66
Newbie
|
21. January 2011 @ 13:15 |
Link to this message
|
Originally posted by onehanded:
I am gonna do a mod for the fan as well so I will keep you informed
do you think linking the red and gray wire will work to keep the fan on high?
|
|
JahJediP
Newbie
|
21. January 2011 @ 15:03 |
Link to this message
|
|
|
|
JahJediP
Newbie
|
21. January 2011 @ 15:24 |
Link to this message
|
Originally posted by brandon13:
Hey everybody I am also having the same problem as everybody else. I have the 80GB ps3 and about 2 weeks ago I was playing MW2 and my ps3 froze and shut off with the whole yellow light of death bullcrap...
So then I went surfing online and and found ps3lightfix.com and said screw it and ordered it for $37 plus $10 for shipping and handling. Well after a week it i recieved it and watched the video and looked threw the online guide.
So I went and bought the Artic Silver 5 compound and a heat gun. I went threw the process and prayed for it to work. When i hit the power button everything came on and i had to reset the Date/time and all the junk. But after about 8 hours of use it started all over again.
So I went threw the second time, did it all over again and hooked up my intercooler for it and it work for about the same time and did it again..
So the 3rd time i did it, i left the cover off it so i was testing it to see if it would still overheat, and i also put the intercooler on, and also had it sitting beside my airconidtioner and it still overheated.
So now i dunno what else to do, I also noticed that the fan doesnt seem to be working like it use to before the problem also, but the extra fans in the intercooler was blowing cooler air out also so im lost? Any suggestions?
Hey, just curious, was your model also 4usb, card reader?
|
|
JahJediP
Newbie
|
21. January 2011 @ 21:24 |
Link to this message
|
Originally posted by write_ps3:
Okay, after several months, I finally found somebody who have experience in reballing GPUs and CPUs off laptops. I decided to get him to work on my PS3's mobo. When he did an initial inspection, he found that one of the transistors near the HDD seems to be blown.
Here is the mobo pic of when I first opened the PS3 up.
Here is the mobo pic of when I left the mobo for the reballing guy.
Anyone can help me identify that transistor? Original 60GB with full BC, 4 USB ports, card reader and SACD playback.
I'm hoping that the transistor is not blown but just slightly damaged. Or if it is, I can find the right parts to replace it.
fuad
Hey, My board looks like that with what looks like flux coming from the board. my system is a 80gb 4usb cardreader,mgs4 bundle. that transistor in mine looks nomal, with numbers visible on it. however, i notice in my those solder joins from the pins are not separated. could this be causing my ylod. i have done 7 reflow, and nothing is happening. same behavior as the first crash which was press on botton, system do the green yellow red beep flashing. the fan do start spinning.
|
|
sheunoubi
Newbie
|
21. January 2011 @ 21:25 |
Link to this message
|
Hi Guys,
Has anyone located the Temperature Sensor on the PS3 slim or FAT logic boards.
I suspect that I have a faulty sensor, that gives YLOD symptoms.
|
|
DIEsony
Newbie
|
21. January 2011 @ 21:56 |
Link to this message
|
Jesus just read 1266 posts on here and ever post on ps forum.
Where i am at the moment
Names of rebels with a cause
ricodadon
gbc (the guy from cyprus)
onehanded
sgebbie
these guys seemed to be the most progressive when it comes down to actually providing long term fixes for fats
ricodadons was lasting for around 5-7 months last time he posted
gbc around 2
onehanded around 2 odd i think
and sgebbie around 2 also
from what i can deduce, ricodadons and gbs havent been back because theirs havent ylod'd again.
sgebbie after sucessfully fixing it for a long period fell asleep for a night and couldnt revive it to its former glory (poor guy) and one handed is still active and i am awaiting his fan mod that he said he will post. However his seemed to be running fine until leaving it on overnight. I believe the key to this was that whenever he used it he unclipped the main housing and placed a fan directly on the psu and hdd.
With ricodadons, he refluxed the whole board including the psu (I still havent got round to understanding how he did the psu yet) then after that he erected the ps3 vertical as he said correctly "heat rises" and placed a large fan next to it to cool
gbc used a syringe to apply the flux directly under the cpu so he said that if the system ever overheated and threatened ylod again the flux would take over and allow it to cool down (thinking about it now it seems conflicting with ricodadons idea of vertical as if you overheat the flux it will eventually drip down MB..... there goes that idea.
and the only active freedom fighter onehanded
he has stated that the penny under the psu and other areas of ps3 does the trick, that said i am still waiting to see if he has any malfunctions with his latest frankenstiens and on his fan mod.
ive also read that reballing only fixes it for 4-6 months which is alot of money for very little play time.
I am still reviewing best thermal compounds and testing and possible psu housing alternatives.
Thanks sony for wasting 20 hours of my life and counting
|
Member
|
22. January 2011 @ 05:08 |
Link to this message
|
Originally posted by sheunoubi:
Hi Guys,
Has anyone located the Temperature Sensor on the PS3 slim or FAT logic boards.
I suspect that I have a faulty sensor, that gives YLOD symptoms.
BD Drive - Service Manual (1st Edition) link
60GB PS3 - Service Manual (3rd Edition) link
60GB, 80GB PS3 - Service Manual (5th Edition) link
SEM PS3 - Service Manual (2nd Edition) link
|
Member
|
22. January 2011 @ 05:09 |
Link to this message
|
Originally posted by colinjest:
Originally posted by sheunoubi:
Hi Guys,
Has anyone located the Temperature Sensor on the PS3 slim or FAT logic boards.
I suspect that I have a faulty sensor, that gives YLOD symptoms.
BD Drive - Service Manual (1st Edition) link
60GB PS3 - Service Manual (3rd Edition) link
60GB, 80GB PS3 - Service Manual (5th Edition) link
SEM PS3 - Service Manual (2nd Edition) link
|
|
danuk76
Newbie
|
22. January 2011 @ 05:26 |
Link to this message
|
Originally posted by DIEsony:
I am still reviewing best thermal compounds and testing and possible psu housing alternatives.
Arctic 5 is the best and a seperate power supply is my next move.
Mine has been running *****5 Months********* used daily, putting it down to the power supply getting hot as the capacitors have bullged (5 year old ps3) causing excess heat to cpu/gpu.
Wired extra fan onto psu pins and fixed over the psu but not pretty, only gonna rebox the psu if it goes again.
Once you have success at reflow, keep it cool !!!
Sony ripped me off with their launch model ps3, just remember sony every loser wins
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 22. January 2011 @ 05:27
|
|
danuk76
Newbie
|
22. January 2011 @ 05:47 |
Link to this message
|
Originally posted by write_ps3:
Okay, after several months, I finally found somebody who have experience in reballing GPUs and CPUs off laptops. I decided to get him to work on my PS3's mobo. When he did an initial inspection, he found that one of the transistors near the HDD seems to be blown.
I'm hoping that the transistor is not blown but just slightly damaged. Or if it is, I can find the right parts to replace it.
fuad
c3401 capcitor 47u 10v ta
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=U92WB2OX
Sony ripped me off with their launch model ps3, just remember sony every loser wins
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 22. January 2011 @ 05:47
|
AfterDawn Addict
|
25. January 2011 @ 01:43 |
Link to this message
|
Cheers again, I creep from the depths of the internet once more.
I am an owner of a launch model 60gb ps3. I recently had the "green/yellow/flashing red light syndrome and I have tried every fix not requiring me to open the case. I am confused..it worked 100% no problem for 4+ years. Recently, it was used for gta4, PlayOn Media Center, and folding@home, PlayOn being to most common thing used. It was on for maybe 24 hrs a week at most. I turned it off, and left it to collect dust over the next month (Ok, there were two gamings of gta4 in the middle of that, but they were short.)
After said month, I then got a used NEC AVR-1000e made in '88. It hums quite audibly. The sub we got for said AVR make the loudest pop when turned off, even when powered through a wall and not the AVR. I moved the ps3 very carefully, turning of the main power before disconnect as always, and set it up in a new location. I plugged the analog audio outs into the AVR, and left the video through HDMI. 5 days go by. It time to dust off the 'ole bugger and and whir it up. "Beep...whirrrrrrrrr......click.beep beep beep." I could have sworn it happened to me before, so I tried some fixes only to discover this was not going to end..I did some research, and discovered chances are i own a $600 paperweight till I cough up 50 for diagnostics + replacement costs.
Any ideas on my case? I even tried the trick to pop out the disk in these situations, but it will not spit it out. I turned my ps3 many different ways while cleaning it on the outside while relocating it. Is there a chance that the drive let go of the disk? If so, will the fact that the internals of the drive are blocked from moving into position cause this error? Or that the motor inside the drive has died, also leading to this error?
Is there yet a consensus of what this means? It seems that it's a hardware fault of a 1000 faces. i am not going to do the reflux trick, mostly because I believe this error stems from all essential component faults, not just the CPU and GPU.
Its my speculation the reflux/heatgun/oven tricks also re-liquify the electrolytic capacitors, transistors, etc, re-grain the more solid-state ones, and shrink the plastic components compressing what they contain. Thus, it succeeds, but leading to an average life of these zombie ps3's to be around 3-6 months. The bad parts are still there, and the stresses that made them so will only push them to fail again. It seems you would have to test every resistor, transistor, diode, contact point, the copper transfer lines whose name escapes me, and much more (obviously staring with the large, visible components, and finishing with testing the micro-components. If the thing is even turning on, you know the CPU is safe unless said tasks are managed by a co-processor (would be smart).
But they all do sort of the same thing, and that is rearrange what you thought was real, and they remind you of the beauty of very simple things. You forget, because youre so busy going from a to z, that theres 24 letters in between... You turn on... tune in... and you drop out...
PS3 Username: Anubis66
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 25. January 2011 @ 01:46
|
|
Advertisement
|
|
|
|
danuk76
Newbie
|
25. January 2011 @ 16:19 |
Link to this message
|
Originally posted by anubis66:
Cheers again, I creep from the depths of the internet once more.
I am an owner of a launch model 60gb ps3. I recently had the "green/yellow/flashing red light syndrome and I have tried every fix not requiring me to open the case. I am confused..it worked 100% no problem for 4+ years. Recently, it was used for gta4, PlayOn Media Center, and folding@home, PlayOn being to most common thing used. It was on for maybe 24 hrs a week at most. I turned it off, and left it to collect dust over the next month (Ok, there were two gamings of gta4 in the middle of that, but they were short.)
After said month, I then got a used NEC AVR-1000e made in '88. It hums quite audibly. The sub we got for said AVR make the loudest pop when turned off, even when powered through a wall and not the AVR. I moved the ps3 very carefully, turning of the main power before disconnect as always, and set it up in a new location. I plugged the analog audio outs into the AVR, and left the video through HDMI. 5 days go by. It time to dust off the 'ole bugger and and whir it up. "Beep...whirrrrrrrrr......click.beep beep beep." I could have sworn it happened to me before, so I tried some fixes only to discover this was not going to end..I did some research, and discovered chances are i own a $600 paperweight till I cough up 50 for diagnostics + replacement costs.
Any ideas on my case? I even tried the trick to pop out the disk in these situations, but it will not spit it out. I turned my ps3 many different ways while cleaning it on the outside while relocating it. Is there a chance that the drive let go of the disk? If so, will the fact that the internals of the drive are blocked from moving into position cause this error? Or that the motor inside the drive has died, also leading to this error?
Is there yet a consensus of what this means? It seems that it's a hardware fault of a 1000 faces. i am not going to do the reflux trick, mostly because I believe this error stems from all essential component faults, not just the CPU and GPU.
Its my speculation the reflux/heatgun/oven tricks also re-liquify the electrolytic capacitors, transistors, etc, re-grain the more solid-state ones, and shrink the plastic components compressing what they contain. Thus, it succeeds, but leading to an average life of these zombie ps3's to be around 3-6 months. The bad parts are still there, and the stresses that made them so will only push them to fail again. It seems you would have to test every resistor, transistor, diode, contact point, the copper transfer lines whose name escapes me, and much more (obviously staring with the large, visible components, and finishing with testing the micro-components. If the thing is even turning on, you know the CPU is safe unless said tasks are managed by a co-processor (would be smart).
Its highly probable the lead free crap solder has cracked on the cpu or gpu.
Sony ripped me off with their launch model ps3, just remember sony every loser wins
|
|
