Whoah! Sounds like there are LOTS of reasons for YLOD, and not always requiring a reflow fix! As snotewood007 says .. probably only worth reflowing if you get a YLOD while actually using the system.
Once you know how to pull it apart and put back together, it probably takes about 10 minutes. Best approach would be strip it down fully, clear out all dust, reassemble, see if it works. If not, reflow :)
Originally posted by WallyHale: Whoah! Sounds like there are LOTS of reasons for YLOD, and not always requiring a reflow fix! As snotewood007 says .. probably only worth reflowing if you get a YLOD while actually using the system.
Once you know how to pull it apart and put back together, it probably takes about 10 minutes. Best approach would be strip it down fully, clear out all dust, reassemble, see if it works. If not, reflow :)
it sounds crazy but I now have a fully working FAT and SLIM Ps3 just for testing to find the broken hardware on another Ps3, I take 1 known working part and swop it on bust playstation, try it, if still YLOD then swap it back and move onto next part, do all this messing before reflow.
Also if anyone knows of any PC based software that would help to find faults then left me know, Im sure SONY has a better method than mine to find the issues.
Its fixed 2 more FAT ps3s without reflow so its crazy but not stupid...
But instead of just putting it on a baking sheet i wrapped it in tinfoil heavyly and let it cook for about 10 mins at 430F
1st one I did worked great(40GB G01). It still had the seal on it. And worked great for the time that i had it. I probley had it for a month before i sold it.
2nd one i had was one of ebay(Launch 60gb). Seller said that the board was reflowed with no avail. So i did the same exact method as above and it worked for a month before i sold it.
3rd Bought locally. still had seal on it(40GB G01). Kept this one for about 4 months. Had on everyday for at least 8 hours.(sometimes that thing would stay on for days) It finally YLOD on me after 3 days staight of being on. I fixed it again but not by oven reflowing. I reflowed just the rsx chip with a heatgun. Then I sold it.
4th one i bought locally as well. Still had seal on it(20gb) Did not have YLOD but had scrambled video. I reflowed it with the oven with no avail. I tried reflowing many of times with various temps(430-450-500) with no avail.(with heat gun as well)
5th one i bought just the mobo off ebay(Launch 60gb). Had same out come as above. and lost some components from the board
6th one Is the exact thing as above.
I stopped doing it that way until i get a good thermometer. I Didnt repair 3 in a row. But prior to that i fixed 3 of them. I just think that the heat fluxuated to much after the third reflow. Or the rack was moved or something went wrong. I really didnt change my method i just think the temps were not staying as consistent as the other times. Keep in mind that this was a gas oven. And that these attempts were after heatgun methods(most of them more specifically the 4th one since i thought the oven would fix it everytime)
After the oven method stopped working I started the heat gun method. But after running into some HP dv6000's with bad video cards i ran into this video and used this method just on the rsx chip. This is how i also reflowed the 3rd PS3 from the oven reflow.(after the ps3 failed 4 months after oven reflow)
With this method i have been 3 for 3 And havent had one ylod on me. And yes i also fixed the dv9000 by using this as well.
I joined this forum just to be a part of this page. I have had some experince with these things and am very intrested in other methods that has worked for everyone else.
I think that the consistent heat form the oven is good. Its just had to control it. I basically only tinfoiled all the plastic parts and left the rest of the board exposed to the heat. It seems to last a long time as well. I think in the near future I may try to make my own reflow oven like this
But i havent found a big and cheap toaster oven yet.
Anyways just thought id share my experinces with them. I plan on buying another one here soon. Hopefully i can get some supplies going to make the reflow oven.
hey i have a 40gb non bc ps3 that was YLOD a week or two ago. i was able to do fan test holding down the eject button while switching on and also eject the disk from it. someone said that this means the psu is still good but i am not shure about that.
my ps3 is the kind with the black PSU so it is a little different from the other kinds in that the fan assembly is attached to the bottom of the case. meaning you have to take off the heatsink clamps before the motherboard cage will come out of the case. i was not expecting this when looking at videos/guides and had to look on youtube halfway through.
anyhow I took it apart and fluxed on the first reflow unlike other people who only use flux after 2-3 bad reflows. i had a piece of 1ft square bathroom tile and put the motherboard on there on top of a wooden dining table and put some newspapers under it for the heat part. if i did not have this tile idk what i would have done maybe just put it on a cardboard box. i have had computer motherboards running plain on a cardboard box this should be fine.
it has worked so far i have played about 3 hours of cod and did some folding I will keep my fingers crossed but it is working that is cool. i followed the gilksy guide for the most part, except for the order of the sides. maybe an updated guide would be cool because the instructions from the reflux video say to do the underside first but the original guide says to do the chip side first I think. idk if it really matters.
also used arctic silver 5 and flux (kester 951 in generic bottle with generic plastic dropper from science class) from ebay. the tamper screw I gave up after a little while and then ordered a torx t10 tamperproof screwdriver from ebay also.
fluxed the cpu chips and the bga's on chip side, then fluxed the bgas on the underside and then heated the underside bga's for about 40 seconds each section on low with that kawasaki heat gun. then waited the cooling time of about 20 mins then flipped it and heated the chips and the bga's, again about 40 seconds each second on low power.
applying the arctic silver was easy but lining the board back on top of the fan is a little tricky since again the black psu ps3 has the fan attached to the bottom of the case and so you cant really see it. you should practice putting the mobo back in before the artic silver is on so you can anticipate the adjusting you will have to do to get it into the proper place. also the heat pads r kind of a minor pain. kinda strange business there. bent the clamps also on the things that smash the cpus down onto the heatsink.
ok thats all thanks again to everyone posting on here i learned a lot and hopefully someone can learn from my experience if they try this. it is defintitely worth it especially if you like doing this sort of thing.
here is price of fixing
$31.95 -heat gun
t10 torx screwdriver- $3 ($1 plus shipping, dude now changed it to $10 plus shipping maybe he did price mistake)
arctic silver $5.70
flux $5.89
99% isopropyl alcohol $2.50! (i thought this was a ripoff but didnt want to go driving around)
Total $49.04 + about 3+ hours spread out and 1 mad girlfriend
you could probably save a few bucks on the flux i got a huge bottle just in case, and you could maybe do without the torx if you have a lot of different screwdrivers. maybe a cheaper heat gun would work but the ones i saw on amazon only talked somewhat about 360 reflow i didnt want to chance it. or even try the harbor freight heat gun but they r strange there.
ok i am done with this peace out homedogs. i have the name on twitter so hit me up on there if u need some of my severe knowledge. ok peace.
ps one last thing about the battery this was the dumbest thing it sticks out from the motherboard cage and it looks like your typical plastic plug where you would think a plastic plug unplugs leaving a plastic rectangle spot on the mother board. this is wrong! although the plug looks like that type, and i am pretty sure it is two different colors white/beige, the whole plug on this model comes off of the board so pull the base off rather than the just the little wire plug thing. this will leave two metal poles sticking up and no plastic, real strange. come to think of it i havent even put that part back on yet but it should just go back on. ok bye for reals this time.
..before I start pls forgive my grammar and spelling, I aint no bleep scholar just a regular gamer who hasnt being to school for awhile...
Anyway...
Praise goes to all those who have contributed/ supported this thread especially Gilksy for his fix whom I believe started the fix trend where many have borrowed from but never gave thanks too. The first fix available at the time....Cheers Mate!
I received the ylod about 1 - 2 yrs ago. I was bleep bleep at the time of this occurrence cause to me it was the best thing to have graced the gaming/ console industry. There wasnt one thing this computing gamin machine couldnt do. So instead of sending it to sony (bleep pricks)who were gonna charge me bleep $250(australian dollars. I bought the unit at $1000 on launch day) at the time to fix it, or post it on fleabay for the scavangers to salvage as spare parts, I decided to wait for a fix, a more permanent (knock on wood)Good fix, that I was confident I could apply every time it ylod (we all know its never gonna be a Pure permanent fix).
So in the last 2 wks, I decided that it was time to apply this fix. After searching the web relentlessly I found myself in many differnet forums and sites. Initially I first found Gilksy fix, but still looked around thinking there might be others but after 2 yrs I found myself back where I started, Here. After reading all the good news of people fixing their units here and all the different steps some have taken, the ones that work and the ones that were experimental I decided to try whats been explained here.... and it worked.
I only waited this long because at first it seemed that it was still in its early stages of the fix, Only through time and what Ive read I know now it can never be a permanent fix (hopefully it could be). Bht when it does ylod, Im confident I can apply the fix. Im also not worried how many times I apply this fix whether it be 2 - 7 times as long as I follow Gilksy procedures of using flux to aid the fix (I could be wrong) to prolong the life on the parts getting heated.
Anyway Thanks again to those who started this thread, especially the man with the fix Gilksy (sorry if Ive misspelt your name) and to all those who have devoted their time and their experiences and hard work.
If youve recently recieved the ylod dont hesitated to try this fix. Its probably the best time to do it now that all thats needed to know about the ylod fault is explained in detail within this thread. Good luck to you all with your units.
... Also..
Thanks to sony (you bleep) for such a mad bleep console, expecially for bleep charging everyone a hefty bleep sum to fix your bleep up, and for not owning up to your bleep up. I wont be buying any future bleep PS4s.
I don't care if you're a scholar or not SaSaiyan/Michael but you can do one thing and leave the language off the forums. Hint read the rules.
Post edited.
I know that it could be caused by a variety of issues, however, I am running out of ideas.
firstly, I have changed power supply and have confirmed that this is not the issue.
I have thoroughly fluxed all chips and have tried a heategun reflow of all memory chips underneath and the RSX/CPU chips and memory chips on the top of the board at 300C/570F for 1 minute each. I have tried this about 6 times but still YLOD.
I noticed that there were no obvious signs of overheating when i disassembled the unit so I am not sure that this was even the problem to begin with!
Not sure what to do now. Perhaps flux all chips on the board and stick it in the oven?
Originally posted by mj1henry: I really need some help with my YLOD.
I know that it could be caused by a variety of issues, however, I am running out of ideas.
firstly, I have changed power supply and have confirmed that this is not the issue.
I have thoroughly fluxed all chips and have tried a heategun reflow of all memory chips underneath and the RSX/CPU chips and memory chips on the top of the board at 300C/570F for 1 minute each. I have tried this about 6 times but still YLOD.
I noticed that there were no obvious signs of overheating when i disassembled the unit so I am not sure that this was even the problem to begin with!
Not sure what to do now. Perhaps flux all chips on the board and stick it in the oven?
Any suggestions would be helpful!
double check ALL ribbons are connected properly, are you getting the yellow then constant red flashing led?
Originally posted by mj1henry: I really need some help with my YLOD.
I know that it could be caused by a variety of issues, however, I am running out of ideas.
firstly, I have changed power supply and have confirmed that this is not the issue.
I have thoroughly fluxed all chips and have tried a heategun reflow of all memory chips underneath and the RSX/CPU chips and memory chips on the top of the board at 300C/570F for 1 minute each. I have tried this about 6 times but still YLOD.
I noticed that there were no obvious signs of overheating when i disassembled the unit so I am not sure that this was even the problem to begin with!
Not sure what to do now. Perhaps flux all chips on the board and stick it in the oven?
Any suggestions would be helpful!
double check ALL ribbons are connected properly, are you getting the yellow then constant red flashing led?
not all ylods appear to be recoverable
All ribbons are connected properly. I turn on ps3, light goes green, then goes yellow, then starts flashing Red Constantly. Plan now is to flux entire board and stick it in an oven at 450F for 10 mins.
Originally posted by mj1henry: I really need some help with my YLOD.
I know that it could be caused by a variety of issues, however, I am running out of ideas.
firstly, I have changed power supply and have confirmed that this is not the issue.
I have thoroughly fluxed all chips and have tried a heategun reflow of all memory chips underneath and the RSX/CPU chips and memory chips on the top of the board at 300C/570F for 1 minute each. I have tried this about 6 times but still YLOD.
I noticed that there were no obvious signs of overheating when i disassembled the unit so I am not sure that this was even the problem to begin with!
Not sure what to do now. Perhaps flux all chips on the board and stick it in the oven?
Any suggestions would be helpful!
double check ALL ribbons are connected properly, are you getting the yellow then constant red flashing led?
not all ylods appear to be recoverable
I turn on. Get Yellow, then starts flashing Red Constantly. Plan now is to flux entire board and stick it in an oven at 450F for 10 mins.
lol dont do the oven trick trust me. i can show you how to fix it right in 30 minutes. if you bake the whole board your just asking for problems.
Originally posted by mj1henry: I really need some help with my YLOD.
I know that it could be caused by a variety of issues, however, I am running out of ideas.
firstly, I have changed power supply and have confirmed that this is not the issue.
I have thoroughly fluxed all chips and have tried a heategun reflow of all memory chips underneath and the RSX/CPU chips and memory chips on the top of the board at 300C/570F for 1 minute each. I have tried this about 6 times but still YLOD.
I noticed that there were no obvious signs of overheating when i disassembled the unit so I am not sure that this was even the problem to begin with!
Not sure what to do now. Perhaps flux all chips on the board and stick it in the oven?
Any suggestions would be helpful!
double check ALL ribbons are connected properly, are you getting the yellow then constant red flashing led?
not all ylods appear to be recoverable
I turn on. Get Yellow, then starts flashing Red Constantly. Plan now is to flux entire board and stick it in an oven at 450F for 10 mins.
lol dont do the oven trick trust me. i can show you how to fix it right in 30 minutes. if you bake the whole board your just asking for problems.
Originally posted by mj1henry: I really need some help with my YLOD.
I know that it could be caused by a variety of issues, however, I am running out of ideas.
firstly, I have changed power supply and have confirmed that this is not the issue.
I have thoroughly fluxed all chips and have tried a heategun reflow of all memory chips underneath and the RSX/CPU chips and memory chips on the top of the board at 300C/570F for 1 minute each. I have tried this about 6 times but still YLOD.
I noticed that there were no obvious signs of overheating when i disassembled the unit so I am not sure that this was even the problem to begin with!
Not sure what to do now. Perhaps flux all chips on the board and stick it in the oven?
Any suggestions would be helpful!
double check ALL ribbons are connected properly, are you getting the yellow then constant red flashing led?
not all ylods appear to be recoverable
I turn on. Get Yellow, then starts flashing Red Constantly. Plan now is to flux entire board and stick it in an oven at 450F for 10 mins.
lol dont do the oven trick trust me. i can show you how o fix it right in 30 minutes. if you bake the whole board your just asking for problems.
Fair enough. I've watched every youtube video about this so.. i'm not sure that you can show me something that I have not already seen or have not already tried.
Originally posted by mj1henry: I really need some help with my YLOD.
I know that it could be caused by a variety of issues, however, I am running out of ideas.
firstly, I have changed power supply and have confirmed that this is not the issue.
I have thoroughly fluxed all chips and have tried a heategun reflow of all memory chips underneath and the RSX/CPU chips and memory chips on the top of the board at 300C/570F for 1 minute each. I have tried this about 6 times but still YLOD.
I noticed that there were no obvious signs of overheating when i disassembled the unit so I am not sure that this was even the problem to begin with!
Not sure what to do now. Perhaps flux all chips on the board and stick it in the oven?
Any suggestions would be helpful!
double check ALL ribbons are connected properly, are you getting the yellow then constant red flashing led?
not all ylods appear to be recoverable
I turn on. Get Yellow, then starts flashing Red Constantly. Plan now is to flux entire board and stick it in an oven at 450F for 10 mins.
lol dont do the oven trick trust me. i can show you how o fix it right in 30 minutes. if you bake the whole board your just asking for problems.
Fair enough. I've watched every youtube video about this so.. i'm not sure that you can show me something that I have not already seen or have not already tried.
Originally posted by mj1henry: I really need some help with my YLOD.
I know that it could be caused by a variety of issues, however, I am running out of ideas.
firstly, I have changed power supply and have confirmed that this is not the issue.
I have thoroughly fluxed all chips and have tried a heategun reflow of all memory chips underneath and the RSX/CPU chips and memory chips on the top of the board at 300C/570F for 1 minute each. I have tried this about 6 times but still YLOD.
I noticed that there were no obvious signs of overheating when i disassembled the unit so I am not sure that this was even the problem to begin with!
Not sure what to do now. Perhaps flux all chips on the board and stick it in the oven?
Any suggestions would be helpful!
double check ALL ribbons are connected properly, are you getting the yellow then constant red flashing led?
not all ylods appear to be recoverable
I turn on. Get Yellow, then starts flashing Red Constantly. Plan now is to flux entire board and stick it in an oven at 450F for 10 mins.
lol dont do the oven trick trust me. i can show you how o fix it right in 30 minutes. if you bake the whole board your just asking for problems.
Fair enough. I've watched every youtube video about this so.. i'm not sure that you can show me something that I have not already seen or have not already tried.
Originally posted by mj1henry: I really need some help with my YLOD.
I know that it could be caused by a variety of issues, however, I am running out of ideas.
firstly, I have changed power supply and have confirmed that this is not the issue.
I have thoroughly fluxed all chips and have tried a heategun reflow of all memory chips underneath and the RSX/CPU chips and memory chips on the top of the board at 300C/570F for 1 minute each. I have tried this about 6 times but still YLOD.
I noticed that there were no obvious signs of overheating when i disassembled the unit so I am not sure that this was even the problem to begin with!
Not sure what to do now. Perhaps flux all chips on the board and stick it in the oven?
Any suggestions would be helpful!
double check ALL ribbons are connected properly, are you getting the yellow then constant red flashing led?
not all ylods appear to be recoverable
I turn on. Get Yellow, then starts flashing Red Constantly. Plan now is to flux entire board and stick it in an oven at 450F for 10 mins.
lol dont do the oven trick trust me. i can show you how o fix it right in 30 minutes. if you bake the whole board your just asking for problems.
Fair enough. I've watched every youtube video about this so.. i'm not sure that you can show me something that I have not already seen or have not already tried.
There seems to be a few root causes for the YLOD. One of my duties at work includes building profiles for an AIR-VAC BGA rework machine. We rework many circuit cards for the US military and I can offer a little as to what it takes to reflow. First off I'd like to say shame on any company that bows down to environmentalist and decides to use lead free solder. The US government will never approve PB-free solder for mission critical components because of it being less reliable and more prone to cracking. Pb-free solder creates weak electrical joints and weaker physical connections. Over time it cracks and the hot-air gun trick is simply repairing the crack. It has a higher melting point than Pb solder, typically 217 degree C (422 degree C) where typical melting points for Pb solder is 183 degree C(361 degree F).
The temperature of the solder must gradually reach the melting point (less than 1 degree C per second) and must gradually cool (<1 degree per second) for a quality joint. Once solder reaches melting point, it must stay there between 45 and 75 seconds for the solder to create a good joint.
Flux very important to use and is nothing more than a reducing agent that removes oxidation and basically cleans the metal before the solder melts, allowing for better flow creating a stronger joint, both electrically and mechanically. Boards are preheated to minimize warping and delamination.
One must also take care to not popcorn components. Moisture eventually seeps into every electrical component, including the boards. If you rapidly heat these components, the water will vaporize and forcefully escape, causing very small cracks to components. Popcorn pops because you heat up water trapped inside a kernel.
The EU and RoHS is a BS law causing decreased reliability in electronics. The PS2 never had these problems, granted that it uses much less power. It was built using traditional lead based solder.
So I attempted this...without a heat gun ( i know...) and it worked for 5 minutes until the ylod came back. Something I noticed was that when i turned the thing on, the fans are super quiet - is this normal? Also the BR drive made a weird noise when turning on - the previous user removed a stuck game but i dont know how
going to get a heat gun and try - does the above sound promising?
So I attempted this...without a heat gun ( i know...) and it worked for 5 minutes until the ylod came back. Something I noticed was that when i turned the thing on, the fans are super quiet - is this normal? Also the BR drive made a weird noise when turning on - the previous user removed a stuck game but i dont know how
going to get a heat gun and try - does the above sound promising?
going to get a heat gun and try - does the above sound promising? Yes def sounds promising,use flux and new paste(super thin layer)
I am on my third reflow of my bga's the 1st lasting a week, the second a couple of weeks, and the third has lasted 3 months and counting/
I have wired a 12v fan pointing towards my ps3 powersupply, as last time I cracked my ps3 open this was red hot and I believe this caused the original fault. The capacitors have limited life (5000hrs)and I reckon overheated my bga's
So I attempted this...without a heat gun ( i know...) and it worked for 5 minutes until the ylod came back. Something I noticed was that when i turned the thing on, the fans are super quiet - is this normal? Also the BR drive made a weird noise when turning on - the previous user removed a stuck game but i dont know how
going to get a heat gun and try - does the above sound promising?
going to get a heat gun and try - does the above sound promising?
Yes def sounds promising,use flux and new paste(super thin layer)
I am on my third reflow of my bga's the 1st lasting a week, the second a couple of weeks, and the third has lasted 3 months and counting/
I have wired a 12v fan pointing towards my ps3 powersupply, as last time I cracked my ps3 open this was red hot and I believe this caused the original fault. The capacitors have limited life (5000hrs)and I reckon overheated my bga's I see..I do have flux and stuff just waiting on getting a heatgun. today i used a hair dryer and AS5. cleaned out alot of dust from the console too.
So I attempted this...without a heat gun ( i know...) and it worked for 5 minutes until the ylod came back. Something I noticed was that when i turned the thing on, the fans are super quiet - is this normal? Also the BR drive made a weird noise when turning on - the previous user removed a stuck game but i dont know how
going to get a heat gun and try - does the above sound promising?
going to get a heat gun and try - does the above sound promising?
Yes def sounds promising,use flux and new paste(super thin layer)
I am on my third reflow of my bga's the 1st lasting a week, the second a couple of weeks, and the third has lasted 3 months and counting/
I have wired a 12v fan pointing towards my ps3 powersupply, as last time I cracked my ps3 open this was red hot and I believe this caused the original fault. The capacitors have limited life (5000hrs)and I reckon overheated my bga's
I see..I do have flux and stuff just waiting on getting a heatgun. today i used a hair dryer and AS5. cleaned out alot of dust from the console too. you are me 4 months back lol hairdryer is waste of time, good luck
Originally posted by danuk76: I see..I do have flux and stuff just waiting on getting a heatgun. today i used a hair dryer and AS5. cleaned out alot of dust from the console too.
That's why it's heaps quieter .. the dust makes them loud, plus they speed up quicker coz the unit is heating up faster coz it's full of dust :)
so i attempted this again with a heatgun and it's running now - another problem though, the drive doesnt seem to accept any discs? tried to eject, but nothing happens. Previous owner stated they manually removed a disc from the drive. Any ideas?
Originally posted by gam3r: so i attempted this again with a heatgun and it's running now - another problem though, the drive doesnt seem to accept any discs? tried to eject, but nothing happens. Previous owner stated they manually removed a disc from the drive. Any ideas?
Ribbon cable is connected to the drive, power connected to the board from the drive. All the ribbons on the back of of the drive double checked and re-seated.
This is what I did to try and attempt to re-align it after the YLOD fix. As it wouldn't take in any discs.
1) I opened the drive up and the drive seemed to be engaged as if there was a disc in it (the previous owner did say they opened it up to remove a game after YLOD) - the flaps at the front were up to stop it from taking in a disc.
2) I reset the drive arms on either side and the little mechanism on the front that accepts discs to the positions where they would be if there was no disc inside the PS3.
The flaps at the front as a result of this were lying flat (so discs could enter the drive)
3) Re-assembled the whole thing.
4) Attempted to put any old cd in. When putting the CD in i noticed that no blue light began blinking and also I had to force the CD half way in before the drive accepted it.
5) The drive accepted the CD and started spinning - still no blue light and nothing in XMB
6) When attempting to eject I just get three beeps and the disc does not come out. It keeps spinning.
I've watched loads of videos on youtube about this and making sure all the bits and pieces are in the right places/mechanisms working as they should and I'm am now truely stumped!
