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Ps3 YLoD Attempted fix's. Any more ideas?
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kingminer
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11. August 2009 @ 14:19 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Ya,i just got the bad news from Djwhetzel. WHY DOES THIS HAVE TO HAPPEN TO ME. lol buti guess ill buy a new PS3. Also ive never sold stuff on the internet. How would I?

Mitch -
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Teckniec
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11. August 2009 @ 14:28 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Originally posted by colinjest:
BREAKING NEWS!

sony have just released pictures of there new fan/ heat sink assembly
that will stop all known overheating problems!

its to be fitted into all ps3's as of from now!!!

see here!
http://furisonllc.com/images/fan_pic_7.jpg


I don't think its enough maybe if it had three fans.

Speaking of fans. Has anyone successfully done anything to make it run cooler?
splash1
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12. August 2009 @ 18:01 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Hi all.

So I'm crossing my fingers in the middle of my second reflow. In fact, I'm waiting for the board to cool while I type this. Hoping it all works out for a bit longer this time.

I had quite a scare when disassembling it. It seemed like the heat sink was much more difficult to get off this time. In fact at first it seemed like one of the chips had welded itself to one of the heat sink pads and I was afraid I was going to pull the chip from the board. Luckily, I didn't. I don't know if this increased difficulty is normal due to newer thermal compound or possibly an issue that might occur when bending the tabs to create a tighter fit to the chips, as I did that during the first reflow.

I am using flux this time and increasing the time under heat by 10 seconds as mentioned; but, I'm a bit nervous as I'm concerned that the flux will help flow the solder away from where it's supposed to be and create more problems than it solves.

That being said, I know you all have done it before and from the sounds of things it works to give better results in lots of cases.

Also, I noticed something that somebody else in an earlier post mentioned, that their PS3 only YLOD'd after they turned it off and then back on. Our PS3 didn't YLOD this time until we had turned it off and then later turned it back on. Also, like the other poster mentioned, we too in the past have left the PS3 running for extended periods of time, sometimes overnight or even a couple days. Like them, I'm also tempted to leave it on all the time so that it doesn't get the opportunity to cool down and then fail on us.

All things considered, after the scare I got this last time with the heat sink not releasing real easy from the chip, I'm thinking I might end up going the Sony refurb exchange route in the end if this reflow doesn't do the trick.

Well, time to go flip the board and hit it with some more heat and flux.

Cheers

The glass is neither half full nor half empty......it is simply twice as big as it needs to be....

This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 12. August 2009 @ 18:26

splash1
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12. August 2009 @ 19:52 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Well that didn't go well....

Now after this last reflow, I have no lights on the front of the PS3, it won't power up at all obviously, but randomly when the power switch in the back is turned on, it will beep three times.

Also, I can hear a very slight almost inaudible (can only hear it when the cover is off and my ear is up against it) squeal coming from the power supply when the switch is on.

So, I've checked the connections to the P/S from the main switch and to the mother board from the power supply.

I've looked at the ribbon cable coming from the power/eject switch and it looks fine near as I can tell.

Any thoughts?

The glass is neither half full nor half empty......it is simply twice as big as it needs to be....
mikmea
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13. August 2009 @ 12:32 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Howdy all, I just joined today to see if anyone has seen anything like this:

I purchased a dead ps3 from ebay and when I got it, I opened it up to find that it had the new 410 blu ray drive. This is an early 40gig CECHGO1. What do you guys think? Did someone try replacing with the wrong drive?

Thanks,
Mike
mikmea
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13. August 2009 @ 12:36 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
I should have mentioned that it had the ylod, followed gilksy's video and got it running. I'm going to try and find a cheap hdd to see if blu ray works.

Mike
erics22
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13. August 2009 @ 13:09 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
to be honest if ya got it from ebay who knows what its been through,someone may have had the blu ray drive die and replased it maybe it was a moron and a screwdriver could be someone that pieced it togeather from several dead ps3.id guess the blu ray drive died and it got change,although i dont know if the first gen controler boards will work with second gen drives,ive never had a blu ray proble so i havent taken the time to research that.but anyway good stuff on getting it working.

just me
mikmea
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13. August 2009 @ 13:37 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
It has a newer drive with inclosed board. I only have 52 bucks in it, and it was worth that(IMO)just to see first hand that the ylod is fixable.

Mike
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13. August 2009 @ 14:57 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Originally posted by mikmea:
It has a newer drive with inclosed board. I only have 52 bucks in it, and it was worth that(IMO)just to see first hand that the ylod is fixable.

Mike
the blue ray drives are coded to the mother board so if that drive and drive controller board did not come from sony with that mother board then you are flogging a dead horse my friend it will not work!!!!!


mikmea
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13. August 2009 @ 15:48 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Originally posted by colinjest:
Originally posted by mikmea:
It has a newer drive with inclosed board. I only have 52 bucks in it, and it was worth that(IMO)just to see first hand that the ylod is fixable.

Mike
the blue ray drives are coded to the mother board so if that drive and drive controller board did not come from sony with that mother board then you are flogging a dead horse my friend it will not work!!!!!
Thanks colinjest.

Do you know if the newer versions of ps3's are coded to the mother board?
Member
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13. August 2009 @ 17:14 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Originally posted by mikmea:
Originally posted by colinjest:
Originally posted by mikmea:
It has a newer drive with inclosed board. I only have 52 bucks in it, and it was worth that(IMO)just to see first hand that the ylod is fixable.

Mike
the blue ray drives are coded to the mother board so if that drive and drive controller board did not come from sony with that mother board then you are flogging a dead horse my friend it will not work!!!!!
Thanks colinjest.

Do you know if the newer versions of ps3's are coded to the mother board?
yes they are it makes up part of the security to stop people hacking the ps3 !!!

Member
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14. August 2009 @ 15:19 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
PLEASE BE ADVISED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I AM GOING ON HOLIDAY FROM NOW TILL SATURDAY THE 22ND OF AUGUST
DURING THIS TIME NO EMAILS WILL BE ANSWERED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

THANKYOU
BYE
GILKSY

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14. August 2009 @ 17:36 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Have a great holiday colinjest but let's not shout about it :) Remember to turn the caps lock off first.



Forum Rules
Do this before posting
Do not click this link...

This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 14. August 2009 @ 17:36

kewlblue
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17. August 2009 @ 06:43 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Well, I successfully completed my first attempt at repairing a YLOD using the heatgun method, well, I guess I should say that I've repaired my first PS3 ever and I still don't own one! :-D All I can say is thank-you Gilksy!!

To cut to the point of my post, after I had the PS3 up and running again I had it sitting at the desktop/main menu while I was just doing some cleanup of all my tools, work table (damn, that thermal paste gets everywhere!) and etc. and when I came back to the PS3 (5 minutes later) I was checking it out and noticed that, wow, is the bottom ever freaking hot! I mean, not like I touched it and heard my flesh sizzle but damn close!. So I took everything apart and noticed that every piece of metal was at least fairly warm, with the back of the motherboard (side with clamps for the heatsink) being nice and hot and the power supply was just scorching!

Long story short, I think the reason most people get repeat YLOD's is the fact that their PSU is on the way out and throwing extra heat.

While I'm waiting for a new PSU I decided to make a temporary fix. All I did was take apart the PSU(APS-231), lift the circuits out of the plastic tray and then the line the tray with silicone rubber. If you wish to try this just make sure you use silicone rubber used to make pot holders/oven mitts and not the silicone rubber used to make muffin trays! The former is used to stop the heat and the latter lets it through, which kinda defeats the purpose! You could probably use many different materials but this is what I thought to use give the requirements, which are; a very good thermal insulator or poor thermal conductor (they mean the same thing), completely non- electrically conductive and will not melt or worse yet, burn, with the amount of heat.

I need to stress the fact that this is just a temporary fix and all it does is stop the heat from directly radiating through the bottom of the PSU and into the motherboard. It will still fill the system with extra, unneeded heat, but at least it's giving me some extra time before I need to go back and reflow the motherboard again! While it has allowed me to play MGS4 for over an hour with the bottom barely getting warm, I'm currently running a full format system restore and the temp is getting up there. I'm also going to run some Folding @ Home after and really stress the system and see how well my fix really works.

I also have a question about PSU's before I order one. I just want to confirm that the APS-240 is the newest model PSU and it will work for this system, the CECHG01, before I actually order it and find out otherwise.

Also, is the following true? (Please excuse the language as the authors first language is not English.)

"APS-226 use for all the first generation 20GB and 60GB edition. But also found at the some later 40GB and 80GB edition.And some of this power marked a parts no. is ZSSR5391A.

APS-231 We can find out this model at 20GB,40GB,60GB,80GB edition.

APS-240 is the Newest model use for 40GB,60GB,80GB and 160GB edition. Usually this edition is with 2xUSB ports but without the card reader socket."

This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 17. August 2009 @ 06:56

chmont1
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17. August 2009 @ 11:16 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
I purchased a rework station and accessories to see if the reflows will be better than with the heat gun. If anyone has any reflow profiles for the PS3 that I could use that would be helpful. Everything I see is for a Xbox 360. I purchased a

Aoyue 968 3 in 1 Digital Hot Air Rework Station

AO618 Versitile Work Platform

Aoyue 853A Quartz Preheating Station

Rework Nozzle #4343 42x42mm BGA

Rework Nozzle #3939 38x38mm BGA

Rework Nozzle #4141 40x40mm BGA

Large PCB frame used to hold a PCB board. Adjustable to suit differenct PCB sizes. Size: 382x300x110mm

gadgetguytx
Teckniec
Junior Member
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17. August 2009 @ 14:22 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
I did reflow and replaced me psu with the newer 226. They actually both run very hot. The one difference I noticed is the 226 was a little cooler but it also dispersed the heat more evenly across the shell. The older one got incredibly hot in certain areas and I mean HOT. At first it was running cooler then the 226 and I was gonna use it but it gets alot hotter just takes about 10min. The 226 kinda stays the same.
kewlblue
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17. August 2009 @ 16:55 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Originally posted by Teckniec:
I did reflow and replaced me psu with the newer 226. They actually both run very hot. The one difference I noticed is the 226 was a little cooler but it also dispersed the heat more evenly across the shell. The older one got incredibly hot in certain areas and I mean HOT. At first it was running cooler then the 226 and I was gonna use it but it gets alot hotter just takes about 10min. The 226 kinda stays the same.
As far as I know the 226 is the oldest PSU and the 240 is the newest.

Well, 6+ hours of running Folding @ Home and the shell is barely warm. Maybe my fix is more permanent than I thought! :-)

Edit: Does anyone know if updating the firmware would adjust the operating temperature? I only ask because that is the only other thing I've changed on the system, updated to V2.80

This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 17. August 2009 @ 18:06

Teckniec
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17. August 2009 @ 19:37 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
The RZ somthing is the oldest. The 226 is the newest that is compatible with the 60GB
marx816
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19. August 2009 @ 23:36 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
this fix worked for my ylod system, this question is for anyone else that has sucessfully did the fix, how long ago did you do the fix, and have you have to do the fix again since the initial fix?
Teckniec
Junior Member
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20. August 2009 @ 01:27 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Originally posted by marx816:
this fix worked for my ylod system, this question is for anyone else that has sucessfully did the fix, how long ago did you do the fix, and have you have to do the fix again since the initial fix?
It took me 3 attempts and so far lasted like 2 weeks
MosesAna
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20. August 2009 @ 01:55 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Originally posted by marx816:
this fix worked for my ylod system, this question is for anyone else that has sucessfully did the fix, how long ago did you do the fix, and have you have to do the fix again since the initial fix?
My first fix lasted 15 days but that was without replacing the Thermal Paste.

2nd fix lasted 10 days and that was with new Thermal Paste.

3rd fix with Flux is still working but it's only been 3 days.
kewlblue
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20. August 2009 @ 11:42 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Originally posted by marx816:
this fix worked for my ylod system, this question is for anyone else that has sucessfully did the fix, how long ago did you do the fix, and have you have to do the fix again since the initial fix?
The fix worked on the first attempt using new thermal paste but I haven't been able to continuous run it as I had to return the PS3 to the owner and I now only have the repaired motherboard/heatsink/fan unit.

This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 20. August 2009 @ 11:43

Newbie
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21. August 2009 @ 09:27 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Hi everyone!

I'm new here and just want to thank all off you for the good work and want to share my experince with reflowing.

I didn't had the YLOD, but when I started the PS3 (60GB) the screen freezed after 5 to 10 seconds. I tought it could be a problem with the RSX so I tried to reflow. After fixing I had only blank screen (HDMI and AV).

My second attempt was with flux (of course "no clean" type). When I started the PS3 I got the YLOD. I was a bit dissapointed, so I got out for lunch. About 1 hour later, I got home, started the console and it worked and is still working like a charm.

Did anyone of you experienced a similar thing?
I mean that the PS3 don't start right after fixing but one or two hours later.


________________________________________________________________
My statistics:

Problem: freezing after start (5-10 sec.)
Successful reflow after attempt: 2 (with flux)
working since: 2 hours
FrappuDew
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24. August 2009 @ 01:34 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
There's a way to fix the YLOD temporarily... sometimes it works for just hours, other times for days n days. Check out this guy's videos on how to fix. I did it myself, it worked... got 8 hours of gameplay, then it broke again. I was unable to fix it a second time, but I've heard that you can fix it several times. It's a 6 part video... here's the link to the fisrt.

[url=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U70SgRDVcBo][/url]
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kewlblue
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24. August 2009 @ 04:46 _ Link to this message    Send private message to this user   
Originally posted by FrappuDew:
There's a way to fix the YLOD temporarily... sometimes it works for just hours, other times for days n days. Check out this guy's videos on how to fix. I did it myself, it worked... got 8 hours of gameplay, then it broke again. I was unable to fix it a second time, but I've heard that you can fix it several times. It's a 6 part video... here's the link to the fisrt.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U70SgRDVcBo


I didn't think it was just temporary, I never read anywhere that it was. I did notice one thing in the PS3 I fixed though, the PSU was getting extremely hot. I took care of that problem and haven't had any post-'gilksy fix' problems yet. I even took the same method and used it to fix my RRoD Xbox 360. I don't need no stinking new x-clamp! :-D

This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 24. August 2009 @ 04:54

 
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