Originally posted by jwc2tha3: Not to change gears here, but I have recently been having another issue with my 80GB PS3. My BD is selective with the return of my disks. Initially the first indication I was having a problem with my drive was with the play of my launch title of Motorstorm, it would not recognize the disk at all. At that point I figured it was the disk and thought nothing of it. Since then I have been playing extended hours of MW2. Earlier this week I decided to try the Motorstorm game again. My MW2 disk would not eject. It would try, and get stuck just on the inside of the drive, (if I were to pull the felt down I could see the edge of the disk). After pushing it back in and pushing the eject button multiple times it coughed up my disk. This time when I inserted Motorstorm, it worked no problem. However when I went to eject the disk I had to fight with the system to get it out.
Last night I had the same issue. I wanted to go back to WAW to put some zombies to rest and had to fight with my BD to get my MW2 disk out and more of the same to get my WAW disk out to end my night/morning of gaming on a MW2 note...again fighting with my drive to have it relinquish my game disk. Is this a common occurrence? Does this mean something specific? Is there a way to FIX this issue? At this point the plan is to just leave MW2 in my system until doomsday, I'm a MW2 Junky...I must have my FIX!
If you are comfortable doing so, I would suggest taking apart the bluray player. It's not too diffucult just a lot of tiny screws and tiny parts. Lots of videos on youtube if you want to have a look at one first. Sounds like something is off track inside your player. I was a little more brave tearing my system down as it's clearly out of warranty and something seriously wrong it if to start with. Less to worry about i suppose. I have taken mine nearly all the way apart. I'm going to be working on the laser assembly area soon and maybe tonight. Let me know if you decide to hack into it and i'll answer any questions that I can.
Originally posted by sgebbie: I fired this thing up and it worked perfectly. I reset the system time and date and got to the main PS3 screen and logged in my user. I then tried putting in a PS2 disc to see if the bluray worked.
(Backwards compatible 80GB unit) The system took the disc in and then the PS3 froze up completely. I powered the system down and when I powered it back up I once again have the YLOD.
I don't see how this is even remotely possbile that the solder developed cracks again. I don't feel that this is due to a heat issue this time but that's all I've been fixing so far so I'm a bit lost with where to go with this now. I had been feeling the power supply the whole 5 min I had this running and it wasn't hot at all. I tried holding down the power button and can't get a settings menu or anything. I've also tried unplugging the power to the bluray drive and that didn't help either.. still YLOD.
Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated. To start with I just want to get this back up and running again. Secondly, I'd like to try and diagnose what's happening with the bluray player if possible as this is a fairly expensive piece to have to replace compeltely.
Thanks everyone.
I also agree that there is no way that the solder is cracking. it is definitely something on the board or connected to it that is causing the problem. a possible attempt to bake it in the oven might work. I fixed a friends ps3 bout 3 months ago and it is still going strong. I also fixed mine with this method. We are both avid gamers playing at least 2 hours per night. Probably a last resort because I cant imagine baking the whole board would be "good" for it. BTW if you decide to give it a go don't worry about the plastic parts on the board they did not melt.I stuck mine in for 7 min at 580F (I think my oven could do a max of 600). i propped it up in six corners so it sat exactly level. I then turn off the oven and just slightly opened the door to allow it to very gradually cool. maybe give it a try. good luck.
I have heard of this as well and it might be my last option after bluray testing / replacement. I read that someone had also done this for 7-8 minutes at 400. Couple quick questions for you about that. What did you use to prop it up in the oven? Can't think of anything offhand that would be good to support it but wouldn't burn the board or melt? Did it warp at all in the oven initially? I was thinking that if it warps much that it could shift or move the board off of the supports to keep it level in the oven. How long did you let it cool afterwards? 30/60 minutes or so? Nothing else on the board is a danger in the oven? Also, I have flux on my board from the last solder repair job I did on the board. Any idea how that would react to being baked? I don't want anything to explode. Oven is not someting fun I want to buy! lol Maybe I could find my old toaster oven. I would think that would work too if it can get hot enough.
1st off i dont think 400 would be hot enough. i think lead solder melts at around 200c and leadfree hotter(dont quote me on those temps). so i think 450 or so would do.(btw i was wrong about my oven temp it was 480 not 580). The board did not warp one bit. I took some copper wire and bent it into a tripod formation. just sorta crude as long as they are all the same height. put in a cookie sheet then the little tripods then the board on top. i made sure the board was only resting on the outer "orangeish" part of the board. also make sure that it is fairly stable cause if it falls off>>>>> might wreck the board/ components. i put the board in components upwards. once the 7 min was up i shut the oven off and just slightly opened the door so the board will cool really slowly. i didn't touch it till it was cool. it took like 45 min to completely cool down. the only thing that even has the potential to blow up on the board are the small capacitors(sorta an enclosed capsule). i don't know lots about them so talk to a electronics expert for more info. mine was fine though. i fluxed my board right before i stuck it in. it wont ruin your board in any way. i used Kesters #952-D6 cause it is specifacly for lead free solder. refluxing wont hurt the board though. might as well reflux it for better chance or success. i would recommend using a full sized oven though cause heat will be even. a toaster oven will have the element right next to the board>>> prob not good for it.reply if you have any other questions bout what i did. hope i can help.
YLOD Progress!!! Sorry for the novel here, but I think this is quite a worthwhile read for anyone trying to diagnose a YLOD they believe to NOT be heat or solder related.
More testing today with some awesome and strange results! VERIFIED YLOD NOT ALWAYS CAUSED BY CRACKED SOLDER, OVERHEATING POWER SUPPLY, OR HARD DRIVE. Sorry for the caps lol haven't really ever seen anyone state that YLOD could come from anything aside from those issues and be able to prove it. I have done a crapton of reading on this stuff. So anway to the testing results...
For starters I now have a functional PS3 again minus the blu ray player. I've also got this thing running and functional WITHOUT a blu ray player or blu ray controller board even connected. The cable to the blu ray controller board is connected to the motherboard and the blu ray board end is floating. Same goes for the power connector that goes from the board to the blu ray player.
So how I fixed it? Well this is the strange part. I was probing around the system while it was in standby mode with a multimeter. Double checked all the pins on the power supply cable going from board to power supply. Tested while in standby which resulted in from right to left with USB ports facing me (5v, 5v, 0, 0, 0) Note that the last pin should be around 3-3.3v. Ran the same tests while firing up the PS3 from standby to YLOD. The short time the system had a green light, the pins read from right to left (5v, 5v, 0, 0, 3v) This was normal and no concern there.
Next I started probing the 4 pin blu ray power cable from right to left (Note: Board side of the power cable and easier to say top to bottom if USB ports are facing you) it read kind of strange while in standby mode. Far right/top side barely had a reading at all. Was just enough to move the multimeter needle just a hair for a second or two. Then seemed like that energy disapated. Next two cables read at 0 and didn't move the meter at all which I figured was normal and they were probably both ground. Last on the far left/ bottom read at around 9v. All seemed good but the far right/top seemed a bit odd with the signal "sort of" being there for a second, as well as being extremely weak.
Next I tested this out while trying to power up and getting the YLOD. Far right/top side shot up very quickly and I obviously had my meter set a little too low scale to read that accurately so I just moved on and checked the two middle and the far left/bottom which still read at 9v. Tried again with the meter set higher and seems the far right/top is getting around 12v. This all seemed fairly normal and I double checked these readings on the blu ray side of the power cable to verify that the cable was getting current all the way through it and reaching the connector at the other end. Everything looked good with the cable.
As a final test I decided to remove the cable completely and test the pins on the motherboard where that cable plugs in (Yeah it was dumb since I had already verified that the cable was getting power to both ends lol but hey what the hell) While testing the far right /top pin on the board end I was about to reset the system again since there's only a brief time to test between on and YLOD. Once the system beeps from the YLOD the power goes back to standby readings even if the red light is flashing. I reached for the power button and realized I didn't have a flashing red light anymore. It was solid green!!!! I checked the meter on the top right again and it had 12v still! So I switch my TV over to component mode and here's the PS3 interface crying that it didn't have the correct hard drive. I had it sitting off to the side after formating it in prior testing to see if the hard drive was the issue.
So now I'm like WTF did I do that caused this to just "lose" the YLOD error????? I read a post awhile back somewhere about someone just "harassing" the PS3 with on off until it finally gave in and booted up LOL. I think it's possibly more likely that something got a little charge back from the meter while testing during power up? Honestly I'm very very basic with voltage and current and all that fun garbage so maybe someone else can lend some insight as to what may have happened here. Maybe this same type of potential chargeback resets the YLOD for an issue that has been resolved or temporarily resolved? Allows it to clear? I'm a computer tech by trade so I'm thinking similar to something like a jumper or resetting CMOS? Maybe this could work with other YLOD issues that are related to some type of glitch or problem with a different piece of hardware?
After this amazing turn of events I decided well time to power back off, throw in the hard drive, and pray like hell that wasn't a fluke ha. I didn't want to turn it off haha but hey it's part of figuring out what the hell is going on here not to mention the system being extremely useless w/o a hard drive let alone no blu ray either lol
I shut this beast down, slapped in the 80GB drive that I thought I had successfully formatted myself with my computer a couple days prior, powered it back up and the PS3 proceeded to boot again normally and tell me it needed to format the drive. I said yes format the drive and when it finished I had a working PS3 minus the blu ray player that was in pieces for diagnosis of the YLOD issue that it seemed to have caused in the first place. Something else that was very odd to me. I noted that I had attempted to and thought I had been successful at formatting my drive through my computer. True yet not true? My format on my computer had no problems. Went like normal. Was very odd that before formatting the drive appeared to be empty and appeared to have NO partitions what so ever. It had a lot of data when it was originally loaded in my PS3 before the YLOD. Music, Movies, Game Demos, and all kinds of other crap from the previous owner.
Didn't care too much about this data and thought it was possible that the data / system updates / whatever else the person who had it before did with it could be causing an issue resulting in YLOD. I found this was not the case with my system before this last "fix" since the system still had YLOD with the hard drive removed as well as no change with the drive in the system pre or post format. Keeping in mind though this could all be BS if the PS3 is holding the YLOD error even after said failed component is fixed / removed / replaced and the system needs some other action to clear the YLOD.
Also, I'm not sure if it's news or not, or a known fact that the PS3 must be storing some of the settings / user account information internally and not on the hard drive. I was shocked that when this thing formatted itself earlier today and booted up that all the user accounts that this other person had created were still there as well as the one that I modified when I first had the system up and running originally shortly after purchase and before YLOD.
So now I'm going to end the novel and go back to more testing again with blu ray stuff. I did a full system restore back to factory defaults and wiped out the user data to start completely fresh on this thing. So that's where I am now. Just put the blu ray drive back together and connected it to the system with the lid off for more experiments.
Feel free to chime in on this with any thoughts or suggestions. It feels really good to start kicking Sony's ass! Promise my next post will be shorter without a quote of all this lol
Even though you formatted the hard drive, the PS3 re-formats it so that it is unique to its current motherboard - if you format it in one machine and then put it in another it will reformat again. Which is a pain if your unit dies completely. Even if you have backed up the whole of your hard drive and try to restore the backup to a new machine, hardly anything will be restored.
User settings are stored in the internal memory. One of the options in the system settings allows you to wipe the hard drive and keep your setting, while another option basically wipes the lot resulting on no accounts and fully restored factory settings.
UPDATE! I'm done with all the testing I'm going to do for today so here's the report.
Fired up the PS3 and everything is still pretty good. Logitech wireless controller works fine. Successfully connected USB hard drive to the system and copied pictures, music, and movies to the PS3.
I have the blu ray drive connected now with the main top lid off the drive.(so i can see what it's doin) PS3 now gives a blue light beside the power button when turning on and the round piece inside the drive that spins the disk spins like crazy when turning on, then stops after about 10-15 seconds, no lights on the diode though. Not sure if this is normal with no disc in the system?
Blu ray controller board must be functioning somewhat correctly as the system turns on without any issues, can read and view pictures, music, and movies copied to the PS3.
All that is left, is to affix the top part of the blu ray drive and see if I can read any disc. Little nervous to do this as EVERYTHING else is working fine. Hate to risk YLOD again by testing discs but I will do this tomorrow night for the sake of making this whole damn thing work. I plan to backup the hard drive via my USB hard drive in case I YLOD again during testing of the blu ray. I'm assuming that if I do YLOD again, it will ask for a reformat of the drive possibly? upon starting up teh system again.
Two things to note that I would like some input on if anyone has any suggestions or advice.
I stated in my first massive post that I reset the PS3 back to factory defaults once I got past the YLOD. Should this in fact clear any updates that have been done to the system as well as the drivers for the blu ray that can be reset under the system recovery console? (part you can get to by holding down the power button until you get 2 beeps then release) I can't get to that recovery console at the moment due to it wanting a hard wired USB controller and all I have is the wireless logitech.
2nd Issue / Question
The power supply on this badboy is still running SUPER HOT after about 1-2 hours. It hasn't been enough to kill anything yet, but I would assume if I left it run it could break something or YLOD again. This is a power supply I bought off ebay and replaced the existing power supply in the system due to the same issue. I'm not sure how hot these are supposed to get by design, but it seems a bit over the top right now. I would assume if it gets hot enough it could actually cause the YLOD where the board needs reflowed. This may be why systems need reflowed repeately since this molten lava power supply sits on top of the chips that are getting cracked solder joints. Might potentially cause blu ray issues too since it's right beside it. Who knows, the lead-free solder might be good enough after all if this thing ran cooler.
I've considered attempting to rig a 480w computer power supply to this permanently, as I've already somewhat had one connected to the system for testing purposes. It would get the job done and not run anywhere near as hot. Sony was retarded for trying to run this thing with no built in fan in the power supply. Once again savin them bucks over qualtiy, as if the price tag wasn't enough to cover it to start with.
Anyway, suggestions would be much appreciated if anyone has any ideas of how to cool this sucker down aside from the computer power supply rig. I was curious if anyone thinks having the case completely together (completely back together and not sitting open) would help the airflow and cool anything down? I have my doubts about that as hot as this thing is getting and only one fan on the very bottom of the system. I would imagine it would probably only cook the thing faster :P I might be crazy but I would bet Sony didn't get quite that far or we wouldn't be discussing so many YLOD issues and power supply issues on the launch units.I was also thinking if I could find a mini computer power supply (smaller proprietary towers usually) that had enough wattage I could even case this thing back up and be golden.
I'll be testing the blu ray tomorrow night. Anyone that is interested in the results. I'll post what all happens when I'm done.
sgebbie, you won't lose any updates/drivers from perfoming a factory restore/reset.
If it yellow lights again and you fix it, it will boot as normal and won't ask to reformat the hard drive again.
I have two open PS3's at present. One of the power supplys runs very hot in one machine but not in the other. I have swapped them around and it seems that it is the PS3 that is causing the PSU to overheat, not the unit itself. This may not be the same in your case however.
As far as I'm aware, you should get a light from the bluray lens even if there is no disc inside. As long as the drive is in the position it would be in if a disc was inserted.
Originally posted by mmayhemm: sgebbie, you won't lose any updates/drivers from perfoming a factory restore/reset.
If it yellow lights again and you fix it, it will boot as normal and won't ask to reformat the hard drive again.
I have two open PS3's at present. One of the power supplys runs very hot in one machine but not in the other. I have swapped them around and it seems that it is the PS3 that is causing the PSU to overheat, not the unit itself. This may not be the same in your case however.
As far as I'm aware, you should get a light from the bluray lens even if there is no disc inside. As long as the drive is in the position it would be in if a disc was inserted.
Hope this helps, keep me informed.
That's great news about the hard drive! I'd like to keep what I have put on it so far but if not, no big deal just slightly annoying / time consuming.
That's going to be a real bummer if something else like a fault in the system board is causing the PSU to overheat :( I really hope that's not the case. Unless someone is an electronics guru I don't think I'd be able to figure it out quite that far except to replace the whole board.
What model are the two that you have? Mine is an 80GB backwards compatible 4 USB unit. Model #
Also, what model is your power supply? Same as mine? APS-226?
With the blu ray player, this thing was set completely back to factory through the settings menu. Are you saying that I should or shouldn't need to go into the recovery console and reset anything else? I heard of someone having blu ray issues resetting something in there and it fixed the blu ray player. I wasn't sure if I should just set it back to whatever that sets it to before I even start. I'm not sure though if that's covered under the full reset/wipe though.
Also I haven't actually gotten the player into the loaded position yet. It's in the unloaded position. I was thinking of testing it with one of those clear discs that you get in the top of a pack of blank CDs. I saw a guy on youtube testing with one of those and you could see the lights on the diode as it was trying to spin and read the disc. Not sure if this would screw with anything within the blu ray player or if it would eventually just say it couldn't read the disc hopefully.
Thanks for the help and information. I'll post back again tomorrow night with more findings. Probably should get a few hours of sleep today lol
Originally posted by sgebbie: What model are the two that you have? Mine is an 80GB backwards compatible 4 USB unit. Model #
Also, what model is your power supply? Same as mine? APS-226?
The two that I'm working on are 60GB backward compatable with four USB sockets.
Will look at the model of the power supply later and let you know.
Has anyone tried disconnecting the battery that saves stuff while the ps3 is shut off? What I did was turn the ps3 on disconnect the battery turn ps3 off then hard reset it then turned the ps3 on & now I'm getting 3 fan speeds instead of just 1 which was low
First off, Colin, you are the man.
Second, successful reflow YLOD, let it sit a day (don't know if this was necessary or bad). Turned it on, looked fine, noticed it was really quiet, but the fan is spinning (put my ear to it, and it is spinning really low). Started FIFA10, still really low, eventually shut off, upon reset it stated that it is really hot and turned off again. Is there something I did or didn't do that would make the fan not function correctly? The power is connected to it.
Third, is there a special kind of flux that works better for the ps3?
Fourth, Colin, I have an older version I guess, some of the things were a little different on the inside of mine than in your videos. I was wondering if you want pictures and/or videos detailing the differences in case you want to add them to your archives, pdf, tutorials, etc.
Fifth, where do I donate to your cause, Colin? You did a fine job and I feel you should be rewarded for taking the time to make these tutorials. Thanks!
Well, I am red in the face. The power was NOT plugged in to the power supply...
But still get back to me on the other questions I asked, minus the donating, I found that :)
Although my last reflow is still working, I got fed up always wondering when it would YLOD on me again and got the 120GB version. For anyone else who's thinking of doing the same, consider M&S because they're giving a 2 year warranty.
I've finished testing my system and after putting the blu ray player back together everything is working great! Blu ray player is fine and has no issues that I can find.
I'm crazy and managed to play madden 09 for like 8 hours straight LOL. Mainly did this for testing purposes. (I don't ever recommend doing this just for sake of sanity!) No issues what so ever. Due to the power supply heat issue I was having before, I left the cover off so the internals were exposed and put a small fan beside the system pointing directly at the left side of the system (USB ports facing you). Fan was aimed at the hard drive bay / power supply. Fan was a 120VAC 60Hz 0.25A fan if anyone is interested. This kept the power supply warm but not hot at all. I checked the power supply with my hand frequently as I was playing.
I'm pretty sure at this point that the main issue causing YLOD is heat related due to the power supply. You could still have issues if your system is extremely dirty, needs new thermal paste, has never been reflowed? I'll have to get a handful more systems to test with to test all my theories (Not sure how soon that is going to happen :P) I'm still debating how I'm going to attempt to fix the second system I have with YLOD due to solder issues. I may rig the computer power supply or possibly try to rig an extra fan or two into the sytem with the factory power supply and see how that works. At this point though I'm not sold that the factory power supply can get the job done on it's own without some help to cool it down.
Also with this system, I'm using a thermal paste called Seven Carat Diamond. They didn't have Arctic Silver 5 at my local computer shop so I got this instead. Read about it some as well, it seems that it has had slightly better results than Arctic Silver 5.
It has a diamond particle base rather than a silver particle base. Small tube of it was about 10 dollars. It also spreads a bit differently as it's a bit too thick to actually "spread". You are supposed to put it in a cup of hot water for about 10 minutes to get it a little easier to work with. I put mine in a zip lock bag and then put that in a cup of hot water for about 10-20 minutes. When you are ready to apply it, you put about a pea sized blob in the center of each chip and then attach the fan and the heatsink plates. When you screw these down it spreads the compound evenly. I was fairly skeptical after reading all this but it seemed to have worked perfectly. Supposedly this method of self spreading eliminates any air bubbles from getting in the paste and keeps it functioning at its best performance. They have some examples on their web site. http://www.innovationcooling.com/applicationinstructions.htm Seems to be working great on mine!! Will definitely buy it again.
After doing all this I'm thinkin that the lead-free solder used on the chips is just fine, provided that the system is cooled sufficiently. I'm thinkin this is where Sony has failed and why there are so many of these systems with issues. I will try to get some pictures posted later on of my current setup with the fan on the side lol and some pictures of the guts if I manage to modify one to accomodate a computer power supply or additional fans on the inside of the case.
Originally posted by jomofro39: First off, Colin, you are the man.
Second, successful reflow YLOD, let it sit a day (don't know if this was necessary or bad). Turned it on, looked fine, noticed it was really quiet, but the fan is spinning (put my ear to it, and it is spinning really low). Started FIFA10, still really low, eventually shut off, upon reset it stated that it is really hot and turned off again. Is there something I did or didn't do that would make the fan not function correctly? The power is connected to it.
Third, is there a special kind of flux that works better for the ps3?
Fourth, Colin, I have an older version I guess, some of the things were a little different on the inside of mine than in your videos. I was wondering if you want pictures and/or videos detailing the differences in case you want to add them to your archives, pdf, tutorials, etc.
Fifth, where do I donate to your cause, Colin? You did a fine job and I feel you should be rewarded for taking the time to make these tutorials. Thanks!
For the fan, I would suggest geting a new one. Pretty cheap part of all the things that could need replacing and probably not a terrible thing to have a spare sitting around. If you can manage to tilt the system up while you have it on you can try testing the power plug for the fan while it boots up and see if it's getting the correct voltage to the fan. It should tell you the voltage that it requires on the back of the fan. To get to this and test it, you will need the system to power on without it sitting in the bottom plastic part of the case. I had mine running like this once so it should work. It will be a little tricky though testing the voltage since the fan connector is on the bottom. Not sure that I'd flip the whole thing upside down.
It's possible you could have a board issue not giving the fan enough juice, a fan wire issue, or just a bad fan that's not working quite right? bearings in the fan? One other thing you might consider is if you can boot your system up long enough to back it up if you haven't backed it up yet, wipe the system back to defaults. Start it over basically like you just unboxed it and hooked it up. I have read some stuff about firmware doing strange things to the system, could mess with the fan speeds or something? I still need to do some research on all the different firmware revisions and what exactly they do. I'm not sold on them actually being good for your system in all cases as quite a few people have had issues with I belive 2.42 which sounds like it has completely crashed some systems. Mine is running no updates until I see some info on exactly what they are changing.
Flux, I used Rosin Flux. On the bottle it says for leaded and lead free solder. It also says Instant wetting / RA type flux. It was about 10 dollars for a bottle about the size of cough syrup. It's pretty messy but clean up isn't too bad with some rubbing alcohol. I did my board just like the video, top side first let it cool and bottom side second. I'd suggest being a little careful and not going too long on the bottom side. I'm thinking if it got too hot, the chip could fall out? Might need a reball or a new board if that happened. You would need a ton of heat for that to happen so just back the times off from the top side say 5 seconds or so and maybe just a little less heat.
As far as your system goes, what kind is it? What's the Model#? Also, what size hard drive does it have? I have a couple older systems here as well. Both of mine are backwards compatible 4 USB systems. One is Model# CECHB01 - 20GB, the other is Model# CECHE01 - 80GB.Out of curiosity, how hot is your power supply getting on that system? Warm to the touch? Hot to the touch? Can't leave your hand on it for more than a couple seconds?
I'm attempting to relfow a 60gb ps3 however the unit came with missing rubber pads!
Is there anything else I can use to substitute this? Or will it matter? Are the rubber pads being used as a thermal situation or merely just as a holder.
well i was in the same issue that so many other gamers have, the bloody yellow light of death on my playstation.
I'd had it for 13 months so when i spoke to Sony they told me that it wasn't covered under warranty....
So i searched the net for something that was actually going to help me rather than be another con.
I have bought so many fix it guides but found one that sounded promising.
Bought it for £27 and took the gamble but it was so worth it!
Followed the walk through videos and within an hour and a half i was back on Call of Duty Modern Warfare 2!
If your looking to sort yours out still i would recommend www.playstation3fix.com.
Is this the site were he uses tooth pase or something?
Care to share his method?
Also I called a third party repair guy and he told me that he didn't use an air gun and that the damge was due to fluctuating voltages of the house. He didn't want to give further details and he charges 90 bucks so I won't take to him but maybe you guys now what his talking about or is he just a scam.
well i was in the same issue that so many other gamers have, the bloody yellow light of death on my playstation.
I'd had it for 13 months so when i spoke to Sony they told me that it wasn't covered under warranty....
So i searched the net for something that was actually going to help me rather than be another con.
I have bought so many fix it guides but found one that sounded promising.
Bought it for £27 and took the gamble but it was so worth it!
Followed the walk through videos and within an hour and a half i was back on Call of Duty Modern Warfare 2!
If your looking to sort yours out still i would recommend www.playstation3fix.com.
Is this the site were he uses tooth pase or something?
Care to share his method?
Also I called a third party repair guy and he told me that he didn't use an air gun and that the damge was due to fluctuating voltages of the house. He didn't want to give further details and he charges 90 bucks so I won't take to him but maybe you guys now what his talking about or is he just a scam.
Not sure what the air gun thing is about but the guide that i bought offers fixes for more than one error on the system as apparently it can be related to a number of things.
Also I called a third party repair guy and he told me that he didn't use an air gun and that the damge was due to fluctuating voltages of the house. He didn't want to give further details and he charges 90 bucks so I won't take to him but maybe you guys now what his talking about or is he just a scam.
An air gun? What does he do blast holes in it lol.
Seriously there are loads of scams out there. Whats the one with the toothpaste?
Originally posted by mmayhemm: An air gun? What does he do blast holes in it lol.
Seriously there are loads of scams out there. Whats the one with the toothpaste?
The mention of an air gun has to make you think that the guy is selling you tripe.
Guessing that the use of toothpaste would be instead of using a bonding agent but if you think about it, your system heats up and so toothpaste would melt and cover your chipboard, causing more damage?
Originally posted by mmayhemm: An air gun? What does he do blast holes in it lol.
Seriously there are loads of scams out there. Whats the one with the toothpaste?
The mention of an air gun has to make you think that the guy is selling you tripe.
Guessing that the use of toothpaste would be instead of using a bonding agent but if you think about it, your system heats up and so toothpaste would melt and cover your chipboard, causing more damage?
JAJA sorry my mistake, I meant Heat gun used to fix the YLOD
That makes a little more sense as it would be bonding something with the use of a heat gun and warm glue.
But there are a number of reasons that the yellow light could be shown so going out and getting a heat gun could be a pointless exercise until you know the cause.
An example is that maybe its something to do with the HD, how is a heat gun going to sort that? Glue it shut? lol
