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Ps3 YLoD Attempted fix's. Any more ideas?
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borolo
Newbie
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19. January 2010 @ 16:36 |
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Well it seems that 90% of failurs are due to the cracking of solders on the mobo. obviously you'll trie to turn it on without the HD of the BD and it seems it has helped a lot of people, just look at the forum.
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abms
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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20. January 2010 @ 12:38 |
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Originally posted by mmayhemm:
sgebbie, you won't lose any updates/drivers from perfoming a factory restore/reset.
If it yellow lights again and you fix it, it will boot as normal and won't ask to reformat the hard drive again.
I have two open PS3's at present. One of the power supplys runs very hot in one machine but not in the other. I have swapped them around and it seems that it is the PS3 that is causing the PSU to overheat, not the unit itself. This may not be the same in your case however.
As far as I'm aware, you should get a light from the bluray lens even if there is no disc inside. As long as the drive is in the position it would be in if a disc was inserted.
Hope this helps, keep me informed.
can anyone else confirm the psu issue. from the sounds of it buying a new one would just be a waste.
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dan_CoD
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20. January 2010 @ 18:40 |
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I read in some forums that the ylod can be cause by a failing heat sensor either on the cpu or gpu...i dk on my ps3 i have the ylod and sometimes i can get on there and watch a whole movie and the next time i boot it up i get like 5 min out of it.. But my fan doesnt seem to be puttin out as much air as it should but when i do my fan test it spins to beat hell.
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pubert
Newbie
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21. January 2010 @ 23:47 |
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I reflowed a 60 gig PS3 that had the blinking red light error. Everything works flawlessly now with 2 small issues, that I can't for the life of me figure out.
It plays Bluray games, PS2 games, PS1 games, audio cds, and single layer dvds but won't recognize bluray movies or dvd dual layer movies. when a blue ray movie or DL dvd is put in, the drive spins up, the icon swirls in the upper right portion of the screen, then the drive stops a few seconds afterwards. Eject and the 10 second eject do not function at that point, I have to reboot and hit eject as the ps3 is booting up.
I did swap the laser out with a known working one with the exact same peculiar results.
I disconnected all ribbon cables in the drive and reseated them all as well.
I also went through the full format, restore, and went as far as to reinstall the current firmware from usb via the restore menu.
The machine has been on for 20 hours since doing the initial reflow with no overheat issues whatsoever (used arctic 5 silver and gave the heatsink clamps a bend)
I received this machine from a friend who had it since launch. He's a smoker, so the machine certainly took some cleaning initially.
I've been "modding" playstations since the ps1, have done my share of laser replacements on the PS2s back in the day, and am good with electronics in general and like to think i'm pretty thorough, but I'm pulling my hair out on this one.
Is there a known area on one of the boards that is linked to disc playback, authentication, dvd decryption that could use another shot from the air gun to reflow?
Could the laser carriage be the culprit? Is there any height adjustment that I might be missing on the laser to raise it?
Thanks for any ideas,
Scott
EDIT - I had access to a working blu ray drive tonite and swapped the PCB and re-hooked it up. Same behavior as mentioned above (ie: wont read blu ray games / dvds) This would rule out the carriage mechanism / laser. I'm thinking about hitting the boards with another reflow.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 23. January 2010 @ 00:08
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abms
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27. January 2010 @ 15:58 |
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My ps3 just ylod'd on me. that was approximately 1month 15days. i baked mine. looks like its gunna get thrown back into the oven.
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Junior Member
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27. January 2010 @ 16:47 |
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Originally posted by abms:
My ps3 just ylod'd on me. that was approximately 1month 15days. i baked mine. looks like its gunna get thrown back into the oven.
Yep...unfortunately it looks like that is about the same amount of time I have been able to get out of my re-flow. Now I have yet to go the oven route, but the standard Re-flow has yielded about the same amount of time on my first 2 attempts to fix...my 3rd re-flow is still kicking however I have relegated it's use strictly for MW2 and an occasional .avi from usb drive. I have also been in the habit of letting it sit idle for a while rather that cut it off completely immediately after extended use...seems to be doing just fine.
Good luck on your next go-round!
"...I don't know everything cause every-thing's to hard to know..." Aceyalone
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Speedy_
Newbie
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29. January 2010 @ 13:16 |
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Has anyone here reballed their BGAs? If so could you recommend a stencil and also a guide?
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abms
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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29. January 2010 @ 16:45 |
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after i baked it it worked for 10min then, had the YLOD. then turned to GLON. After putting everything in the case screws and all it works. very odd.
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IG1980
Newbie
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1. February 2010 @ 15:55 |
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You guys should have a look on http://www.yellowlight.co.uk - it's been set up by a group of people fed up with the YLoD.
Quite a few on their forum know a lot about the YLoD so could answer a lot of questions. They're also after a lot of people to sign up and put pressure on Sony to accept it as a recognised fault...
Worth a look definitely.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 1. February 2010 @ 16:02
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dan_CoD
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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1. February 2010 @ 17:50 |
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sending mine into a bga reballing/reflow place...guess will see how they do.
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slamkeys
Newbie
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2. February 2010 @ 21:33 |
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This is bull crap. I think something in the latest firmware is frying these older units. Mine was hardly ever used for games, only for watching an occasional movie.
The ball grids are cracking? WTF? I have "re-flowed" mine 3 times now and it only works for about a week or so and then YLoDs again. I would never send mine off to get fixed now because I have no proof that the fix is permanent. Who would pay 160.00 for a 90 day fix - that's all you're getting! I can buy a new Slim for 299.00 with a 1 year warranty.
Repair shops are getting rich right now off of this problem and the fixes don't last.
I have never even heard my fan ramp up from low speed, so how the heck did my ball grid get damaged? My motherboard looks new as a baby's a$$. No dust; No burn marks; No flux residue; It's perfect.
I am one pissed off customer. I can't believe Sony isn't stepping up to the plate like Microsoft did. Whoever heard of it being OK for something like this to crap out completely after 2 years.
I mean seriously - there is no permanent fix people. I don't mind paying for a fix; but we have no proof that there is a true fix. I wouldn't be surprised if the Slims started crapping out as they hit a certain age.
YLoD on PS3 40Gb with very light usage - happened after 3.15 Update and then playing MW2. I am pissed.
Absolutely NO DUST INSIDE - not my fault.
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dabien
Newbie
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3. February 2010 @ 01:41 |
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I did the heat gun and everything.
Now my PS3 won't turn on. I get a red light. Eject button works.
I used the controller and it powered on but then it showed a pink screen, looks like the video crashed. and then now I can't even reach that screen.
I just have a red light? Any suggestions? Reflow it again?
car
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slamkeys
Newbie
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3. February 2010 @ 02:07 |
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Does anyone have a real success story from using a heat-gun reflow repair? I have never seen one thread where someone said they relowed their board and the problem didn't recur. Many people have the problem return in less than a day.
The whole thing stinks. I've read hundreds of posts where people are fretting over how they re-attach the heat sink and apply the heat sink compound, but if heating your board up to 400 degrees is what fixes it, who cares how hot the stupid thing gets?
The best thing we can do is make sure the PS3 is kept in a very hot environment. That way the "cool down" will still be hot, so the ball grids won't shrink and crack. Yeah, that's it - just keep'em hot all the time and the fix will last forever.
YLoD on PS3 40Gb with very light usage - happened after 3.15 Update and then playing MW2. I am pissed.
Absolutely NO DUST INSIDE - not my fault.
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ajgraves
Newbie
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3. February 2010 @ 04:59 |
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Well guys i have finally decided that i have had enough of trying to sort out my issues!
Sony really need to realise that releasing a console that lasts 13 months so that its out of its warranty period is one of the biggest cons since the great train robbery, they are basically selling a product that they know is going to give consumers problems.
Their not only happy to sell you the console at £250 but they are happy to charge you £100 to have the f***er fixed when it breaks outside of the warranty period.
What is it with the bigger companies these days? Microsoft and Sony dominate the console gaming world but yet are happy to place their branding onto something that breaks if the user uses it...
It wouldn't be as bad if it was the customer who was causing the issue but the majority of the time its the workmanship of the creator that is been put to question....
We need another of the big electrical companies to join this rat race and look to bring something that is reliable and equal to the specs that these two multi billion dollar companies are bringing to the market.
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gbc
Newbie
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3. February 2010 @ 05:36 |
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Since i put 2 fans (from a old lexmark e120n laser printer with a power suplly 16v from a old hp printer)one on the right side of the console (air flow in) and one close to the network cable on the back (air flow out) ylod stop.
Best regards from Brazil
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slamkeys
Newbie
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3. February 2010 @ 11:56 |
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Originally posted by gbc:
Since i put 2 fans (from a old lexmark e120n laser printer with a power suplly 16v from a old hp printer)one on the right side of the console (air flow in) and one close to the network cable on the back (air flow out) ylod stop.
So how long has your fix lasted now?
YLoD on PS3 40Gb with very light usage - happened after 3.15 Update and then playing MW2. I am pissed.
Absolutely NO DUST INSIDE - not my fault.
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gbc
Newbie
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3. February 2010 @ 12:54 |
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2 months
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slamkeys
Newbie
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3. February 2010 @ 13:04 |
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Originally posted by gbc:
2 months
Does your internal fan ever kick into high speed? I swear I have never even heard mine crank up. I don't see how I could have overheated when the fan never had to spin up.
Is there a known issue with the temperature sensor? I still think they mucked with the firmware when the Slim came out, and possibly screwed up the fan code when it runs on a PS3 Fat. Remember, we're running the same firmware on 2 different machines now, and that leave much room for error. Sony knows if this is a problem, but they will not admit it.
YLoD on PS3 40Gb with very light usage - happened after 3.15 Update and then playing MW2. I am pissed.
Absolutely NO DUST INSIDE - not my fault.
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gbc
Newbie
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3. February 2010 @ 13:51 |
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that is the problem the internal fan is slow for a long time they spin up with more rpm after the system (RSX) is to hot, when i used the external fans the temperature is more stable.
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slamkeys
Newbie
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3. February 2010 @ 14:18 |
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That's what makes me curious. I work on embedded firmware for a living, and our thermal code polls each of the thermal sensor readings and spins the fans up or down depending on the heat. If things get beyond our max temperature or we cannot determine what the temperature is at all, we switch to what we call "blow out" mode where the fans just run full blast.
I have never heard my PS3's fan go beyond the first speed. It's as quiet as a church mouse.
YLoD on PS3 40Gb with very light usage - happened after 3.15 Update and then playing MW2. I am pissed.
Absolutely NO DUST INSIDE - not my fault.
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slamkeys
Newbie
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3. February 2010 @ 14:22 |
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Originally posted by slamkeys:
It's as quiet as a church mouse.
Right up until it blanks the video and says, "Beep Beep Beep"...YLoD
YLoD on PS3 40Gb with very light usage - happened after 3.15 Update and then playing MW2. I am pissed.
Absolutely NO DUST INSIDE - not my fault.
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b3mike
Newbie
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3. February 2010 @ 14:30 |
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Originally posted by brisland:
Hi guys, first post here.
I explain my problem:
Last thursday I've powered up my ps3 with PS button on controller and got black screen, led was green and the controller was connected but after a few second the led 1 begun flashing like it was in charge but without usb cable!! nothing happened and I must shutdown with the power button pressed for 10 second.
After a lot of tries I come to the recovery menu by connecting an old screen with scart connector. I tried the 3 first options, but always black screen, then I tried the update option, downloaded firmware 3.15 on usb stick, pressed start+select and it copy the firmware to harddisk, then restarted and the update begun....but when reached the 99% it freeze!! I'we waited for an hour but nothing happened and then i pressed the power button for 10 sec for shutdown. when I powered it up again it restarted the update and freeze at 99%.
Yesterday I've called the Sony assistance and the guy says me that probably was a overheat problem (but I haven't a yellow led!!, only green) so I've maked the ylod repair but nothing changed.
Then I said "ok my saves are lost" and I putted the original 40gb harddisk on, powered up, it comes the message that I must reinstall the system, I do it but appeared the 8002f281 error.
Is there anyone that has any idea to solve my problem? (please gilksy)
I had the same issue after I repaired my 60gb ylod. Update kept crashing at 67%. I purchased an external 2.5 Sata enclosure for the hdd and had to format it to fat32 with Swissknife. After a few attempts of snapping the hdd in and out of the ps3 it finally recognized the hdd and stopped the looping firmware. You will loose your data, hopefully you have a backup. I believe that if a ps3 gets a looping firmware update it has to do with a hardware issue. In my case I belive the culprid was the ethernet and wifi after the ylod fix. I probably effed something up. Oh well, my 60gb is now an upscale Ps2 since I can't play ps3 games that require newer firmwares =(
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b3mike
Newbie
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3. February 2010 @ 15:13 |
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Originally posted by slamkeys:
Does anyone have a real success story from using a heat-gun reflow repair? I have never seen one thread where someone said they relowed their board and the problem didn't recur. Many people have the problem return in less than a day.
The whole thing stinks. I've read hundreds of posts where people are fretting over how they re-attach the heat sink and apply the heat sink compound, but if heating your board up to 400 degrees is what fixes it, who cares how hot the stupid thing gets?
The best thing we can do is make sure the PS3 is kept in a very hot environment. That way the "cool down" will still be hot, so the ball grids won't shrink and crack. Yeah, that's it - just keep'em hot all the time and the fix will last forever.
Mine has been working fine since October. It runs cooler than when it was new.
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slamkeys
Newbie
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3. February 2010 @ 16:16 |
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Originally posted by b3mike:
Mine has been working fine since October. It runs cooler than when it was new.
So did you use the flux/reflow technique?
I've used the normal reflow 3 times, but I haven't done it with flux yet.
YLoD on PS3 40Gb with very light usage - happened after 3.15 Update and then playing MW2. I am pissed.
Absolutely NO DUST INSIDE - not my fault.
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b3mike
Newbie
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3. February 2010 @ 18:02 |
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Originally posted by slamkeys:
Originally posted by b3mike:
Mine has been working fine since October. It runs cooler than when it was new.
So did you use the flux/reflow technique?
I've used the normal reflow 3 times, but I haven't done it with flux yet.
Sure did. I cleaned the major areas where I was going to apply flux with rubbing alcohol (rsx, cell, memory) and reapplied thermal paste. I only did it once and it's still kicking. I also therally cleaned and dusted everything
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