Ps3 YLoD Attempted fix's. Any more ideas?
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Tazadoobi
Newbie
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8. January 2010 @ 13:45 |
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It's the fact they are so limited on choice, and the price you have to pay for something you wouldn't accept if there were other options.
I need a new PS3, but i'm just not going to sell my old one. I could get £100 to £150 for it, but then it's lost forever. If I save and sell some of my un-wanted games, I effectively have 2 PS3's, just one needs fixing, that's all.
Taz.
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sgebbie
Newbie
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12. January 2010 @ 12:59 |
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Originally posted by WataruD: First off, I would like to thank all of those that have been working on solving this problem, esp Gilksy/colinjest. I have read this entire thread recently and thought that I would contribute my progress, or lack thereof, for all to know.
I was the new recipient of the YLOD on Dec 27 this year. I have owned my PS3 since I got it as a Valentines gift in 2006 (hows that for a girlfriend?). Knowing that my 60GB release PS3 was no longer under warranty, I wanted to see what the issue was and, if possible, fix it myself as well.
- I reflowed the PS3 on Dec 28 per the online video and .pdf file which Gilksy was kind enough to post. This reflow worked for 2 days before the YLOD returned.
- I reflowed the PS3 again on Dec 31 per the original reflow plans. This time it worked for about 2-3 hours before calling it quits and brandishing the YLOD again.
- Today I attempted the more drastic reflow: 400ºC.. flux pen.. providing heat the entire board with a 30 second focus on the four key areas mentioned in the video/.pdf... and the addition of washers to the pressure plates. I was worried about the impact of repetitive reflows and had hoped that the flux pen would be the silver bullet for me.
Unfortunately, the PS3 did not live even long enough for me to back up the data to an external hard drive. So, I realize that this may not be the most heartening news, but figured I would share my story as well as looking for any feedback. I am really at a loss as to what to do next, and it is nearing the financial point where attempting to have Sony fix it would have been the cheapest option despite the fact that I would loose all my information on my hard drive.
First post here. Been following along for quite awhile now and have read most of this thread. Figured I would sign up and give you guys some info that I have found over the past month or so. Sony's fix is not the answer.
If you are going to spend a few bucks on something (I've seriously considered this especially since it's local to me) Check this site out.
gamesmithrepairs.com/prices/prices.htm
Local place here near Columbus, OH that offers reballing for the PS3. They will reball with lead based solder for 99 bucks. Still a fair amount cheaper than Sony and then it's completely fixed and likely fixed for good. They also offer lifetime warranty on the reballing.
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sgebbie
Newbie
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13. January 2010 @ 02:48 |
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So here's a new one for anyone that's still reading this thread. I am open to suggestions. I just literally about 20 min ago finished a YLOD repair with a heat gun. I have a temp gauge on the gun and was between 700-750F for about 25-35 seconds on each area on the front and back. I also prepped the board with flux and cleaned the board up a bit afterwards with some alcohol.
I used Arctic Silver thermal paste on both chips and when I secured the clamps down I bent them just a tiny bit for more pressure and used two 6mm washers above the plates and below the head of the screws. Everything was put back together correctly.
I knew this board had the YLOD problem when I did this the first time and found out it also had a bad power supply that caused a 2nd YLOD after it got too hot. I had a spare PS and put that in the 2nd go around with the YLOD repair.
The bluray drive is the only part that I had that was iffy. When I fixed the YLOD the first time (without flux) the blueray drive seemed to just be stuck where it wouldn't take a disc. During the 2nd YLOD repair, I opened up the bluray drive and set the track correctly.
I fired this thing up and it worked perfectly. I reset the system time and date and got to the main PS3 screen and logged in my user. I then tried putting in a PS2 disc to see if the bluray worked.
(Backwards compatible 80GB unit) The system took the disc in and then the PS3 froze up completely. I powered the system down and when I powered it back up I once again have the YLOD.
I don't see how this is even remotely possbile that the solder developed cracks again. I don't feel that this is due to a heat issue this time but that's all I've been fixing so far so I'm a bit lost with where to go with this now. I had been feeling the power supply the whole 5 min I had this running and it wasn't hot at all. I tried holding down the power button and can't get a settings menu or anything. I've also tried unplugging the power to the bluray drive and that didn't help either.. still YLOD.
Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated. To start with I just want to get this back up and running again. Secondly, I'd like to try and diagnose what's happening with the bluray player if possible as this is a fairly expensive piece to have to replace compeltely.
Thanks everyone.
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sgebbie
Newbie
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14. January 2010 @ 01:25 |
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Originally posted by sgebbie: So here's a new one for anyone that's still reading this thread. I am open to suggestions. I just literally about 20 min ago finished a YLOD repair with a heat gun. I have a temp gauge on the gun and was between 700-750F for about 25-35 seconds on each area on the front and back. I also prepped the board with flux and cleaned the board up a bit afterwards with some alcohol.
I used Arctic Silver thermal paste on both chips and when I secured the clamps down I bent them just a tiny bit for more pressure and used two 6mm washers above the plates and below the head of the screws. Everything was put back together correctly.
I knew this board had the YLOD problem when I did this the first time and found out it also had a bad power supply that caused a 2nd YLOD after it got too hot. I had a spare PS and put that in the 2nd go around with the YLOD repair.
The bluray drive is the only part that I had that was iffy. When I fixed the YLOD the first time (without flux) the blueray drive seemed to just be stuck where it wouldn't take a disc. During the 2nd YLOD repair, I opened up the bluray drive and set the track correctly.
I fired this thing up and it worked perfectly. I reset the system time and date and got to the main PS3 screen and logged in my user. I then tried putting in a PS2 disc to see if the bluray worked.
(Backwards compatible 80GB unit) The system took the disc in and then the PS3 froze up completely. I powered the system down and when I powered it back up I once again have the YLOD.
I don't see how this is even remotely possbile that the solder developed cracks again. I don't feel that this is due to a heat issue this time but that's all I've been fixing so far so I'm a bit lost with where to go with this now. I had been feeling the power supply the whole 5 min I had this running and it wasn't hot at all. I tried holding down the power button and can't get a settings menu or anything. I've also tried unplugging the power to the bluray drive and that didn't help either.. still YLOD.
Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated. To start with I just want to get this back up and running again. Secondly, I'd like to try and diagnose what's happening with the bluray player if possible as this is a fairly expensive piece to have to replace compeltely.
Thanks everyone.
Nobody eh? Anyone still reading this? :P Gilksy you still around?
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Hotice17
Newbie
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14. January 2010 @ 05:50 |
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try heating it up again, make sure not to move ti when it cools down
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brisland
Newbie
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14. January 2010 @ 11:47 |
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Hi guys, first post here.
I explain my problem:
Last thursday I've powered up my ps3 with PS button on controller and got black screen, led was green and the controller was connected but after a few second the led 1 begun flashing like it was in charge but without usb cable!! nothing happened and I must shutdown with the power button pressed for 10 second.
After a lot of tries I come to the recovery menu by connecting an old screen with scart connector. I tried the 3 first options, but always black screen, then I tried the update option, downloaded firmware 3.15 on usb stick, pressed start+select and it copy the firmware to harddisk, then restarted and the update begun....but when reached the 99% it freeze!! I'we waited for an hour but nothing happened and then i pressed the power button for 10 sec for shutdown. when I powered it up again it restarted the update and freeze at 99%.
Yesterday I've called the Sony assistance and the guy says me that probably was a overheat problem (but I haven't a yellow led!!, only green) so I've maked the ylod repair but nothing changed.
Then I said "ok my saves are lost" and I putted the original 40gb harddisk on, powered up, it comes the message that I must reinstall the system, I do it but appeared the 8002f281 error.
Is there anyone that has any idea to solve my problem? (please gilksy)
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WallyHale
Junior Member
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14. January 2010 @ 11:55 |
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When you put your 40GB back in, did you update through the internet or off the memory stick again?
I would try the updates again and see if you get the same error code with the 40GB drive in. If it dies at 99% again, then I would think something is wrong other than the HDD. If it completes and works fine, then your HDD would be worth checking for bad sectors etc on a PC. If it gives the error code again, then maybe something else is wrong :(
Need to pinpoint before you can start checking / changing components :)
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Member
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14. January 2010 @ 14:43 |
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still here
just shit hot busy at the mo lol
emails have gone through the roof!
and i'm prioritizing donaters sorry
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ooZEROoo
Senior Member
4 product reviews
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14. January 2010 @ 18:03 |
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I am very proficient to most of this. I am using a system that has had the YLoD and everything is still good after the reflow. So my question is a little different.
My friend had his playstation dropped and of course there was some significant damage. This particular unit had the YLoD because during the drop a component was snapped away from the power supply's board. I was able to make the repair, but now when I power it on I get this message,
"Cannot Start
The Correct Hard Drive was not found"
Do you think that maybe the drop also damaged the hard drive? I can't test the hard drive in a PC right now, and I want to make sure that is the problem before I tell him to invest in a new hard drive. Also I cant boot into the recovery menu. I get that message everytime I power on the unit.
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abms
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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14. January 2010 @ 18:11 |
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Originally posted by sgebbie: I fired this thing up and it worked perfectly. I reset the system time and date and got to the main PS3 screen and logged in my user. I then tried putting in a PS2 disc to see if the bluray worked.
(Backwards compatible 80GB unit) The system took the disc in and then the PS3 froze up completely. I powered the system down and when I powered it back up I once again have the YLOD.
I don't see how this is even remotely possbile that the solder developed cracks again. I don't feel that this is due to a heat issue this time but that's all I've been fixing so far so I'm a bit lost with where to go with this now. I had been feeling the power supply the whole 5 min I had this running and it wasn't hot at all. I tried holding down the power button and can't get a settings menu or anything. I've also tried unplugging the power to the bluray drive and that didn't help either.. still YLOD.
Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated. To start with I just want to get this back up and running again. Secondly, I'd like to try and diagnose what's happening with the bluray player if possible as this is a fairly expensive piece to have to replace compeltely.
Thanks everyone.
I also agree that there is no way that the solder is cracking. it is definitely something on the board or connected to it that is causing the problem. a possible attempt to bake it in the oven might work. I fixed a friends ps3 bout 3 months ago and it is still going strong. I also fixed mine with this method. We are both avid gamers playing at least 2 hours per night. Probably a last resort because I cant imagine baking the whole board would be "good" for it. BTW if you decide to give it a go don't worry about the plastic parts on the board they did not melt.I stuck mine in for 7 min at 580F (I think my oven could do a max of 600). i propped it up in six corners so it sat exactly level. I then turn off the oven and just slightly opened the door to allow it to very gradually cool. maybe give it a try. good luck.
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sgebbie
Newbie
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14. January 2010 @ 19:26 |
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Originally posted by colinjest: still here
just shit hot busy at the mo lol
emails have gone through the roof!
and i'm prioritizing donaters sorry
Ahh no problem I know how that goes. Just had a couple quick questions for you when you get a free minute. Kind of stuck at a standstill with this right now and I'm trying to disprove a few theories. I know you have worked with a lot of these and I'd like to pick your brain for a minute.
Mainly trying to figure if a different hardware problem other than cracked solder can cause YLOD. Seems to be the case with mine although I need a good bluray drive to test with and see if that's truly what the problem is.
I've heard some vauge ramblings about YLOD being possible due to other failures such as HDD or power supply. Pretty sure both of mine are good and even had a 480 watt computer power supply rigged up for testing as well. I have heard next to nothing about bluray causing YLOD though and that's what I'm suspecting is my problem this go around. Frustrating not having a whole pile of these things to test with lol
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sgebbie
Newbie
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14. January 2010 @ 19:51 |
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Originally posted by abms: Originally posted by sgebbie: I fired this thing up and it worked perfectly. I reset the system time and date and got to the main PS3 screen and logged in my user. I then tried putting in a PS2 disc to see if the bluray worked.
(Backwards compatible 80GB unit) The system took the disc in and then the PS3 froze up completely. I powered the system down and when I powered it back up I once again have the YLOD.
I don't see how this is even remotely possbile that the solder developed cracks again. I don't feel that this is due to a heat issue this time but that's all I've been fixing so far so I'm a bit lost with where to go with this now. I had been feeling the power supply the whole 5 min I had this running and it wasn't hot at all. I tried holding down the power button and can't get a settings menu or anything. I've also tried unplugging the power to the bluray drive and that didn't help either.. still YLOD.
Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated. To start with I just want to get this back up and running again. Secondly, I'd like to try and diagnose what's happening with the bluray player if possible as this is a fairly expensive piece to have to replace compeltely.
Thanks everyone.
I also agree that there is no way that the solder is cracking. it is definitely something on the board or connected to it that is causing the problem. a possible attempt to bake it in the oven might work. I fixed a friends ps3 bout 3 months ago and it is still going strong. I also fixed mine with this method. We are both avid gamers playing at least 2 hours per night. Probably a last resort because I cant imagine baking the whole board would be "good" for it. BTW if you decide to give it a go don't worry about the plastic parts on the board they did not melt.I stuck mine in for 7 min at 580F (I think my oven could do a max of 600). i propped it up in six corners so it sat exactly level. I then turn off the oven and just slightly opened the door to allow it to very gradually cool. maybe give it a try. good luck.
I have heard of this as well and it might be my last option after bluray testing / replacement. I read that someone had also done this for 7-8 minutes at 400. Couple quick questions for you about that. What did you use to prop it up in the oven? Can't think of anything offhand that would be good to support it but wouldn't burn the board or melt? Did it warp at all in the oven initially? I was thinking that if it warps much that it could shift or move the board off of the supports to keep it level in the oven. How long did you let it cool afterwards? 30/60 minutes or so? Nothing else on the board is a danger in the oven? Also, I have flux on my board from the last solder repair job I did on the board. Any idea how that would react to being baked? I don't want anything to explode. Oven is not someting fun I want to buy! lol Maybe I could find my old toaster oven. I would think that would work too if it can get hot enough.
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sgebbie
Newbie
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14. January 2010 @ 20:13 |
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More testing... YAY! Seriously it's getting a little old but I feel I'm making some progress at least. So here's some of the bluray info I've gathered about my system so far.
About the bluray one thing I found very interesting and not sure if this is normal or not. I have the lid off the bluray player and when I hit the power button and get the YLOD the bluray lens moves down slightly and kind of clicks, then goes back up and clicks down again quickly and does nothing else. That's when I get left with the blinking red light.
A lot of folks have said they get lights inside the bluray but not sure if this applies to a YLOD as well. Should I be getting any lights? Red light? Blue light? As far as i can tell there isn't any lights it just clicks a little bit. The quick yellow light flash happens right as the lens clicks down for the second time as if it was trying to do something, couldn't, and then triggered the YLOD as a result of the failure. The light stays green through the first down click of the lens, the click back up and switches to the yellow light right as it goes back down again.
I'm fairly new on the internals of the bluray so far. I've also heard people talk about the bluray board and the motherboard being paired / married to where they can't be seperated. I've also read about those who have successfully bought an entire replacement bluray drive without a motherboard and without switching out the controller board on the bluray player and got it to work. Not sure which to believe there.
I would think something on the board would have to be messed up if it's not the bluray. I even tried doing the YLOD fix to an extent on the bluray controller board hoping that maybe something on that had some solder issues since it sits directly on top of the motherboard chips.
Which also got me thinking..Could this be a potential cause of other YLOD or just other hardware issues in general? Could a hot board be putting off so much heat that it's heating up the bottom side of the power supply and causing a failure inside which in turn makes the power supply run way too hot and fail? Could it be doing the same thing on the other chip that sits almost directly below the controller board on the bluray player?
When I did my last motherboard reflow and thermal paste, I added 6mm washers to the heatsink clamps. I noticed putting things back together that this added a little bit of space underneath the power supply and the bluray player. Not much space, just a hair but still... I would think any space you could create even if just a tiny bit would be helpful to dissapate a lot of heat.
Any thoughts or suggestions welcome. The PS3 will not win..I refuse!
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wildwild1
Newbie
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15. January 2010 @ 01:51 |
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Hi all,
I believe you guys have not applied enough heat to actually reflow the BGAs. You need to heat the solder balls to at least 235C for ~15S for a successful reflow.
To achieve this you need:
1) use liquid flux,
2) warm the BGA to ~200C for 60-120s,
3) step up the heat to get the BGA to 250C for 15-30s (it may need heat of ~300-350C), use too much heat and you will damage the BGA and other components. DO NOT MOVE OR TOUCH the PCB.
4) back off the heat as quickly as you can and cool down the BGA. Let it rest for a while and re-assemble the PS3.
Hopefully you have a longer lasting PS3 :)
If not repeat the reflow process and use longer heating time in step 3) to get the balls reflowed properly.
Good luck to all.
Wildy.
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mmayhemm
Junior Member
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15. January 2010 @ 01:51 |
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.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 15. January 2010 @ 01:57
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mmayhemm
Junior Member
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15. January 2010 @ 01:54 |
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Originally posted by sgebbie: More testing... YAY! Seriously it's getting a little old but I feel I'm making some progress at least. So here's some of the bluray info I've gathered about my system so far.
About the bluray one thing I found very interesting and not sure if this is normal or not. I have the lid off the bluray player and when I hit the power button and get the YLOD the bluray lens moves down slightly and kind of clicks, then goes back up and clicks down again quickly and does nothing else. That's when I get left with the blinking red light.
A lot of folks have said they get lights inside the bluray but not sure if this applies to a YLOD as well. Should I be getting any lights? Red light? Blue light? As far as i can tell there isn't any lights it just clicks a little bit. The quick yellow light flash happens right as the lens clicks down for the second time as if it was trying to do something, couldn't, and then triggered the YLOD as a result of the failure. The light stays green through the first down click of the lens, the click back up and switches to the yellow light right as it goes back down again.
I'm fairly new on the internals of the bluray so far. I've also heard people talk about the bluray board and the motherboard being paired / married to where they can't be seperated. I've also read about those who have successfully bought an entire replacement bluray drive without a motherboard and without switching out the controller board on the bluray player and got it to work. Not sure which to believe there.
I would think something on the board would have to be messed up if it's not the bluray. I even tried doing the YLOD fix to an extent on the bluray controller board hoping that maybe something on that had some solder issues since it sits directly on top of the motherboard chips.
Which also got me thinking..Could this be a potential cause of other YLOD or just other hardware issues in general? Could a hot board be putting off so much heat that it's heating up the bottom side of the power supply and causing a failure inside which in turn makes the power supply run way too hot and fail? Could it be doing the same thing on the other chip that sits almost directly below the controller board on the bluray player?
When I did my last motherboard reflow and thermal paste, I added 6mm washers to the heatsink clamps. I noticed putting things back together that this added a little bit of space underneath the power supply and the bluray player. Not much space, just a hair but still... I would think any space you could create even if just a tiny bit would be helpful to dissapate a lot of heat.
Any thoughts or suggestions welcome. The PS3 will not win..I refuse!
From my experience the lens on the blu ray drive should be blue when reading a disc and the disc would only ever turn when the blue light had contact with the disc. Drives I've seen with a blinking red light or a tiny red beam never manage to spin the disc. Never known the lack of a disc being read causing the unit to switch off though.
I have replaced a few bluray drives in my time but never had any success unless I've used the controller board.
Hope this helps a little
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sgebbie
Newbie
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15. January 2010 @ 02:00 |
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Originally posted by ooZEROoo: I am very proficient to most of this. I am using a system that has had the YLoD and everything is still good after the reflow. So my question is a little different.
My friend had his playstation dropped and of course there was some significant damage. This particular unit had the YLoD because during the drop a component was snapped away from the power supply's board. I was able to make the repair, but now when I power it on I get this message,
"Cannot Start
The Correct Hard Drive was not found"
Do you think that maybe the drop also damaged the hard drive? I can't test the hard drive in a PC right now, and I want to make sure that is the problem before I tell him to invest in a new hard drive. Also I cant boot into the recovery menu. I get that message everytime I power on the unit.
Honestly I would want to hear that thing start up. If you can somehow at least get power to the drive, you might even be able to hear the failure. To be sure though, I would suggest this site:
http://www.tacktech.com/display.cfm?ttid=287
Download the one for your drive. I suggest downloading and burning as an ISO file and burn yourself a disc from the ISO. Connect that drive to your PC internally if you don't have another option. Shutdown and boot off that disc.
It should detect your drive and the options on most of them are pretty self explantory. Basic Tests, Long Tests, Full Erase options such as writing zero's to the drive. I recommend that if you REALLY want to start with a fresh blank drive.(This removes all data including the primary partition and the boot sector) It can also fail where other tests won't if it detects a drive problem when trying to fully erase it.
If you get the drive connected and it's grinding or scraping or making any clicks or funny noises the drive is probably trash. I've seen em work with stuff like that but not for long and very unreliable. If you can't connect it internally in your computer, I suggest geting a converter at a local computer store. Something like this. Drive Converter
Awesome to have around. Generally if it can't detect the drive at all when connected to USB, there is something wrong with the hard drive. Best bet is the ISO CD and scanning for problems.
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sgebbie
Newbie
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15. January 2010 @ 02:15 |
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Originally posted by mmayhemm: Originally posted by sgebbie: More testing... YAY! Seriously it's getting a little old but I feel I'm making some progress at least. So here's some of the bluray info I've gathered about my system so far.
About the bluray one thing I found very interesting and not sure if this is normal or not. I have the lid off the bluray player and when I hit the power button and get the YLOD the bluray lens moves down slightly and kind of clicks, then goes back up and clicks down again quickly and does nothing else. That's when I get left with the blinking red light.
A lot of folks have said they get lights inside the bluray but not sure if this applies to a YLOD as well. Should I be getting any lights? Red light? Blue light? As far as i can tell there isn't any lights it just clicks a little bit. The quick yellow light flash happens right as the lens clicks down for the second time as if it was trying to do something, couldn't, and then triggered the YLOD as a result of the failure. The light stays green through the first down click of the lens, the click back up and switches to the yellow light right as it goes back down again.
I'm fairly new on the internals of the bluray so far. I've also heard people talk about the bluray board and the motherboard being paired / married to where they can't be seperated. I've also read about those who have successfully bought an entire replacement bluray drive without a motherboard and without switching out the controller board on the bluray player and got it to work. Not sure which to believe there.
I would think something on the board would have to be messed up if it's not the bluray. I even tried doing the YLOD fix to an extent on the bluray controller board hoping that maybe something on that had some solder issues since it sits directly on top of the motherboard chips.
Which also got me thinking..Could this be a potential cause of other YLOD or just other hardware issues in general? Could a hot board be putting off so much heat that it's heating up the bottom side of the power supply and causing a failure inside which in turn makes the power supply run way too hot and fail? Could it be doing the same thing on the other chip that sits almost directly below the controller board on the bluray player?
When I did my last motherboard reflow and thermal paste, I added 6mm washers to the heatsink clamps. I noticed putting things back together that this added a little bit of space underneath the power supply and the bluray player. Not much space, just a hair but still... I would think any space you could create even if just a tiny bit would be helpful to dissapate a lot of heat.
Any thoughts or suggestions welcome. The PS3 will not win..I refuse!
From my experience the lens on the blu ray drive should be blue when reading a disc and the disc would only ever turn when the blue light had contact with the disc. Drives I've seen with a blinking red light or a tiny red beam never manage to spin the disc. Never known the lack of a disc being read causing the unit to switch off though.
I have replaced a few bluray drives in my time but never had any success unless I've used the controller board.
Hope this helps a little
Thanks for the reply. It's good to hear about what they are supposed to be doing since I've not really had a working one completely apart. I've heard far more people say that about the bluray controller board than people that said it worked ok.
I would assume those selling boards and drives seperately on ebay and such probably don't know that they are paired. I've seen some paired but quite a few that are not as well. Still seems really strange that I get t he YLOD almost in sync with whatever the bluray is trying to do. Anyone currently have the YLOD? Do you get any sound out of the bluray drive? Any clicks? Blue or Red lights? No lights? Not sure if this an isolated issue with just my system..
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WallyHale
Junior Member
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15. January 2010 @ 06:05 |
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sgebbie, sounds like you are definitely onto something, and the YLOD doesn't always mean reflow!
I would imagine it means "failure in some component so your PS3 will not function, send it back!".
Would be GREAT if you can get your hands on a BluRay drive (that works) and test this theory!
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brisland
Newbie
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15. January 2010 @ 06:08 |
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Originally posted by WallyHale: When you put your 40GB back in, did you update through the internet or off the memory stick again?
I would try the updates again and see if you get the same error code with the 40GB drive in. If it dies at 99% again, then I would think something is wrong other than the HDD. If it completes and works fine, then your HDD would be worth checking for bad sectors etc on a PC. If it gives the error code again, then maybe something else is wrong :(
Need to pinpoint before you can start checking / changing components :)
I didn't see the XMB from last thursday, the only way is with the memory stick.
With the 40gb hdd I cannot update because the error come just after the checking of the update data on the stick (I've redownloaded the firmware on another stick but nothing changed) and I've checked the hdd on pc and it's fully functioning.
With my 250gb hdd it just start the update and freeze at 99%, no way to reach the recovery menu again, and at the moment I haven't made any checking on this hdd because I've a little hope to recover my saved data again.
I think the problem is other than the hdd's.
Thanks for the help
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Junior Member
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15. January 2010 @ 11:59 |
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Not to change gears here, but I have recently been having another issue with my 80GB PS3. My BD is selective with the return of my disks. Initially the first indication I was having a problem with my drive was with the play of my launch title of Motorstorm, it would not recognize the disk at all. At that point I figured it was the disk and thought nothing of it. Since then I have been playing extended hours of MW2. Earlier this week I decided to try the Motorstorm game again. My MW2 disk would not eject. It would try, and get stuck just on the inside of the drive, (if I were to pull the felt down I could see the edge of the disk). After pushing it back in and pushing the eject button multiple times it coughed up my disk. This time when I inserted Motorstorm, it worked no problem. However when I went to eject the disk I had to fight with the system to get it out.
Last night I had the same issue. I wanted to go back to WAW to put some zombies to rest and had to fight with my BD to get my MW2 disk out and more of the same to get my WAW disk out to end my night/morning of gaming on a MW2 note...again fighting with my drive to have it relinquish my game disk. Is this a common occurrence? Does this mean something specific? Is there a way to FIX this issue? At this point the plan is to just leave MW2 in my system until doomsday, I'm a MW2 Junky...I must have my FIX!
"...I don't know everything cause every-thing's to hard to know..." Aceyalone
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mmayhemm
Junior Member
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15. January 2010 @ 12:18 |
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sgebbie, not sure if you've answered this or not. Have you powered up without the bluray connected at all? Does it last longer before the YLOD?
I see what you mean with controller boards and motherboards being sold separately. Apparently the Sony jig files allow you to pair a mother board and controller board. Not even sure if these files really exist though
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sgebbie
Newbie
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15. January 2010 @ 13:13 |
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Originally posted by WallyHale: sgebbie, sounds like you are definitely onto something, and the YLOD doesn't always mean reflow!
I would imagine it means "failure in some component so your PS3 will not function, send it back!".
Would be GREAT if you can get your hands on a BluRay drive (that works) and test this theory!
Actually I should have one tomorrow :D Getting a 20 GB system with a working blu ray drive that I'm pretty sure is failing due to a heat issue. The one I'm getting back was for my girlfriend's little boy and I bought it off ebay and reflowed it once already. Went ahead and got him a new slim with 2 year warranty on it so now I have another tester for my crazy tinkering lol. I reflowed the 20 gig with a lot lower heat for a lot less time and no flux. Also had kinda moderately old cheaper version thermal paste on it so.. I'm 95% sure it's probably another reflow or a power supply replace. I should have more troubleshooting results tonight and saturday night. I'll let you all know how it goes!
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sgebbie
Newbie
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15. January 2010 @ 15:52 |
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Originally posted by mmayhemm: sgebbie, not sure if you've answered this or not. Have you powered up without the bluray connected at all? Does it last longer before the YLOD?
I see what you mean with controller boards and motherboards being sold separately. Apparently the Sony jig files allow you to pair a mother board and controller board. Not even sure if these files really exist though
I haven't had a chance to test that yet. Probably will tonight. I just picked up on the YLOD happening in sync with the clicking of the bluray the other night so I guess the next steps would be to see what the YLOD does without the bluray connected at all. May also take the bluray compltely apart and see if I can determine where the fault might be. I should have the working one tomorrow so that should answer quite a few questions I have.
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WallyHale
Junior Member
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15. January 2010 @ 17:40 |
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Doubt it's the same .. but I remember on my PS3, I wore through the "rods" that the laser ran along! Man that thing had a LOT of play time .. hahaha
I wonder if it's got some gunk on it or something so the laser can't get where it needs to be, so cracks the p00's and chucks a YLOD. Keen as to hear your results!
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