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Ps3 YLoD Attempted fix's. Any more ideas?
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Mathieu_A
Newbie
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25. April 2010 @ 10:18 |
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Can somebody explain to me how to check out all the transistors on the board? I want to check them out and maybe replace broken ones. The setback of that guy not being able to repair it is not going to stop me from trying to do it myself.
Even crazy enough to try a reball at some piont.
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Mathieu_A
Newbie
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10. May 2010 @ 12:51 |
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Another attempt by someone to repair the PS3. To no avail AGAIN! It appears nobody in the Netherlands is doing a reball on those machines, the last guy said he does them, but apparently not on my machine. He says it's a brick, can't repair it. Did a reflow, again! I told him I wanted a reball.
So I'm really at a loss. Want to try reballing it myself. Lame guys can charge you ?40 to ?80 for a sucessfull reflow. Mine weren't sucessfull, so no cure no pay. Can someone tell me how to get those chips of the mobo with household tools?
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BigTonyToledo
Newbie
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17. May 2010 @ 10:29 |
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I have Re-flowed my 60gb PS3 twice now after getting the YLOD death. It fixed the problem both times for about 3 weeks. I just got the YLOD again yesterday I want to know if there is another fix. I noticed that my fan runs very quiet and slow since the first rebuild. Should I get a new fan?
My other question is, what is the benefit of "reballing"? I just watched a video on youtube about it, but I dont quite understand what that does. Im heading to the Shack to get more thermal compound and do another relow this morning. My modern warfare 2 is stuck in my unit again.
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AfterDawn Addict
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17. May 2010 @ 15:53 |
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Reballing is actually replacing the solder. Electronic manufacturers are being more "green" and using lead-free solder. This solder is more brittle than leaded solder.
A good reballer should would clean off your old lead-free solder and replace it with leaded solder.
Trying to do this at home with common household tools (heat gun) can be very VERY difficult. You could easily fry components or you could rip off the pads from under the cpu/gpu.
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Mathieu_A
Newbie
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17. May 2010 @ 16:36 |
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That's the reason why I haven't done anything with my PS3. It's been reflowed twice. I'm looking for a better repair guy who for once knows what he's doing. Maybe found one, must check back with him for aq repair appointment.
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dchris01
Junior Member
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17. May 2010 @ 18:42 |
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I have been looking at the last couple of posts people looking to see, like myself in trying a reball could this be really done with a heat gun and other tools or would it be impossible it's my last resort but could it be done with tips from other people on forums like this any help is greatfull
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smidge67
Newbie
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21. May 2010 @ 14:11 |
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I am sick to death of my ps3 now, have done the gilksy fix 4 times and it last for a couple of days or a week and then YLOD AGAIN. I have the 60 gb model and am just wondering if its time to call it a day and get a new one. I am a bit pi**ed off with Sony but have loads of games and stuff so i will probably get another ps3. Has anyone done this or anything different that has lasted?
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Getgaming
Newbie
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23. May 2010 @ 10:45 |
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Most people that do reflows aredoing them with heat guns or hair dryers. Both of these way WILL destroy the board, it will warp it and damage other parts at the same time. Some repair shops use a BGA Hot air machine, Which is better the the heat gun due to the fact that the temp can be controlled, But it still can damage the board by moving chips around when the forced hot air melts the solder and the forced air can shift the chips. Some shops us a IR rework station, which uses IR light to reflow the chip! ( this is the best way ) It uses a IR plate to heat the bottom of the board, and a IR light on the top, concentrated on the problem chip. I have a few of each of these machines and this is my opinion.
As far as reballing, Its just not cost effective, for what it would cost you to have a chip reballed you could almost by a new console. Good luck with your repaairs guys.
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James_BNM
Newbie
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23. May 2010 @ 18:19 |
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Just got YLOD again after 4 weeks. Getting pretty sick of it now too.
Might try to get my motherboard reflowed with infrared but its probably too late. Plus, they only seen them last 4-6months at best, if done this way first time.
Other option is too sell for spares or repair. The bluray drive, PSU etc are in good condition. Just having trouble reflowing the GPU.
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slamkeys
Newbie
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24. May 2010 @ 11:19 |
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The best thing you can do is reflow it, then take it to GameStop and trade it in before it dies again. They sometimes have a special trade in allowance on consoles where you can get an extra 30.00 on top of the 80.00 or 90.00 they usually give. If you were to put 120.00 towards a new SLIM that would at least get you back in warranty and out of a headache.
It still pisses me off that Sony won't do anything more than they're doing about this problem. They haven't even acknowledged it as a real defect.
YLoD on PS3 40Gb with very light usage - happened after 3.15 Update and then playing MW2. I am pissed.
Absolutely NO DUST INSIDE - not my fault.
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AfterDawn Addict
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24. May 2010 @ 12:08 |
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What is it that's going out on the PS3? The cpu or gpu?
I've been reflowing 360's for quite awhile, and lately I been having people asking if I reflow PS3's? I've always said no before, but now that I'm getting asked about it a lot, I've decided to order the nozzles that fit the processors and start doing PS3's.
But I haven't been following the ylod situation. Is it like the 360's; the gpu overheating mixed with mobo warping and brittle, lead-free solder = ylod?
Or is it where the CELL is the culprit?
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Getgaming
Newbie
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24. May 2010 @ 13:30 |
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Its the GPU ( RSX chip) that causes the yld.
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dchris01
Junior Member
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24. May 2010 @ 14:44 |
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Originally posted by Getgaming:
Its the GPU ( RSX chip) that causes the yld.
Does this mean a reball would fix the ylod maybe or maybe not for good
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slamkeys
Newbie
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24. May 2010 @ 15:19 |
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My position is that the firmware is causing it. My unit never overheated, or at least it never did until the SLIM was launched and we were forced to use the 3.0+ firmware (new games require the upgrade, so it's not like we had a choice people). I never even heard my fans spin up before mine YLoD'ed, because it was always in a nice cold location. When I tested the fan using the blow-out test, it ramped up normally. My board looked brand new too - no heat spots or anything. It had to be someting in the firmware that was not properly regulating voltage, or temperature, or both on the FAT units.
3.0+ Firmware combined with Modern Warfare 2 is guaranteed to fry an old FAT. Am I right?
Hasn't anyone noticed that there has been a shortage of SLIMs since they launched??? Why??? Are they focusing all their resources on trying to figure out why there have been so many FAT failures??? I believe they are purposely limiting production of the SLIMs now so they don't get into a situation of mass recalls when the SLIMs start dying.
Most gamers have way too much money invested in games to stand on principle and NOT buy another SONY console. However, the right thing to do would be to buy an XBOX and send SONY a message. Microsoft stood behind their product when the RRoD issue happened and extended the warranties to 3 YEARS at a cost of over 1 BILLION dollars. That's how an American company takes responsibility.
SONY has only denied that there's an issue by stating that the failure rate is acceptable to them, which further exacerbates the issue by making you pay 120.00+ to get a temporary fix with a lousy 90 day warranty. Screw that. I wish we could get the truth on this issue, and also the real number of failures. When people fix their own units then SONY can pretend they never failed at all, (See? That's a big part of the cover up!) so we have no idea what the real failure rate is.
The bottom line: THERE IS NO PERMANENT FIX TO YLoD (except to buy a SLIM - and they might start dying soon too).
Buyer Beware.
YLoD on PS3 40Gb with very light usage - happened after 3.15 Update and then playing MW2. I am pissed.
Absolutely NO DUST INSIDE - not my fault.
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Getgaming
Newbie
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24. May 2010 @ 19:11 |
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Reballing It would fix it yes! You have to remember that these game console companys make LOTS of money doing repairs. These consoles are designed to fail!!! just like everything elese in the world, they know that people will pay big bucks to have these things fixed and they count on that!
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ntemis
Newbie
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30. May 2010 @ 16:54 |
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Originally posted by slamkeys:
My position is that the firmware is causing it. My unit never overheated, or at least it never did until the SLIM was launched and we were forced to use the 3.0+ firmware (new games require the upgrade, so it's not like we had a choice people). I never even heard my fans spin up before mine YLoD'ed, because it was always in a nice cold location. When I tested the fan using the blow-out test, it ramped up normally. My board looked brand new too - no heat spots or anything. It had to be someting in the firmware that was not properly regulating voltage, or temperature, or both on the FAT units.
3.0+ Firmware combined with Modern Warfare 2 is guaranteed to fry an old FAT. Am I right?
Hasn't anyone noticed that there has been a shortage of SLIMs since they launched??? Why??? Are they focusing all their resources on trying to figure out why there have been so many FAT failures??? I believe they are purposely limiting production of the SLIMs now so they don't get into a situation of mass recalls when the SLIMs start dying.
Most gamers have way too much money invested in games to stand on principle and NOT buy another SONY console. However, the right thing to do would be to buy an XBOX and send SONY a message. Microsoft stood behind their product when the RRoD issue happened and extended the warranties to 3 YEARS at a cost of over 1 BILLION dollars. That's how an American company takes responsibility.
SONY has only denied that there's an issue by stating that the failure rate is acceptable to them, which further exacerbates the issue by making you pay 120.00+ to get a temporary fix with a lousy 90 day warranty. Screw that. I wish we could get the truth on this issue, and also the real number of failures. When people fix their own units then SONY can pretend they never failed at all, (See? That's a big part of the cover up!) so we have no idea what the real failure rate is.
The bottom line: THERE IS NO PERMANENT FIX TO YLoD (except to buy a SLIM - and they might start dying soon too).
Buyer Beware.
Hi,
I being watching this thread for a long time,
i have fixed my ps3 Ylod for about seven months now and still going strong.
Ok this a trick that will do the job done and maybe just maybe is permanent fix because here the temps are very high (am living in cyprus) aprox 43 Celsius in summer and fan goes to 3rd stage after 2 hours of heavy gaming or maybe more, i used ac5 but the only thing that i did differently is this :)
After flux and reflow I PUT NON-CLEAN FLUX UNDER THE CPU + GPU WITH A SYRINGE WITH A SMALL NEEDLE THAT ARE VERY COMMON USED BY DIABETIC PERSONS TO HAVE INJECT INSULIN, I MAKE SURE IT WAS JUST ENOUGH TO COVER EVERY SIDE OF THE UNDERNEATH OF BOTH PROCCESSORS.
SEEMS IT HAS DONE THE TRICK!!!
wHEN THE YLOD TRIES TO KICK IN THEY WILL BE RE-FLOWED BY THEM SELF'S DUE TO THE HEAT AND SETTLE DOWN WITH A FIXED SYSTEM.
Ok here is the part i did also,
Step by step:
1.AC5 needs time to settle down and be effective so first we need to run hot the system on the several first times we power on so we have the self-reflow.
Ok, now put the most severe game you have like GOW 3 or Uncharted 2 and run the game untill you have a stage 4 fan blow, it will sound like a hoover ok from the time you here the fans take the top spin give it 1 min and exit to dashboard and leave it there untill you have stage 2 or even stage one.
2.NOW we want ac5 to make its magic, never play a game after this leave it cool down and shut it down, let it cool or better leave it for next day (i did)
Ok next day power on leave it on dashboard untill stage 2 happens then power down.
3. Day 3 same
4 day 4 same
5. day 5 play a game for 1 hour aprox and check fan stages if never goes to stage 3 you are in the game! Exit to dashboard after 1 hour leave it to cool.
6.Play for 2-3 hours, you will have a stage 3 sometime on the road BUT will return to stage 2 by it self -> success!
Regards
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brandon13
Newbie
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4. June 2010 @ 12:47 |
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Hey everybody I am also having the same problem as everybody else. I have the 80GB ps3 and about 2 weeks ago I was playing MW2 and my ps3 froze and shut off with the whole yellow light of death bullcrap...
So then I went surfing online and and found ps3lightfix.com and said screw it and ordered it for $37 plus $10 for shipping and handling. Well after a week it i recieved it and watched the video and looked threw the online guide.
So I went and bought the Artic Silver 5 compound and a heat gun. I went threw the process and prayed for it to work. When i hit the power button everything came on and i had to reset the Date/time and all the junk. But after about 8 hours of use it started all over again.
So I went threw the second time, did it all over again and hooked up my intercooler for it and it work for about the same time and did it again..
So the 3rd time i did it, i left the cover off it so i was testing it to see if it would still overheat, and i also put the intercooler on, and also had it sitting beside my airconidtioner and it still overheated.
So now i dunno what else to do, I also noticed that the fan doesnt seem to be working like it use to before the problem also, but the extra fans in the intercooler was blowing cooler air out also so im lost? Any suggestions?
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ntemis
Newbie
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5. June 2010 @ 09:17 |
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Flux+heatgun+thin layer of as5, if you want reflux as my guide above but be sure not to over do it with flux just to cover the underside of processors.
After that dont play a game because as5 needs time for curing ->200h so be gentle with it for a week or so.
For starts play max an hour, after the week play for 1-2 hours and when you can see the differences in fan speed go on with it.
Mine has being perfect and i play for more than 6-8 hours, not every day though because of work and family :)
Regards
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 5. June 2010 @ 09:19
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aoiakuma
Newbie
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18. June 2010 @ 15:21 |
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I have a ylod fix guide on my page. Check it out if interested it is a step by step guide. You can check it out if your interested in fixing your ps3 on your own.
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s4s3s2s1
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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23. June 2010 @ 15:07 |
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I just followed gilksy1's tutorial and my PS3 started up right away. I left the final cover off and placed a house hold fan blowing over the top of it. I never remember hearing my fan on the PS3 and I still dont hear it obviously this is a heat issue that the PS3 is experiencing. I used the washer suggestion as well. right now the system is sitting at the XMB ( I got my COD MW back ) I plan on letting it sit idle for a period of time then shutting down. I also plan on letting the fan run whenever the PS3 is on to reduce the heat. I hope that this prevents me from having to do a re-bake. next time around I will be using FLUX ( If it so happens I need to do it). I will re-post later with results in 2 weeks if it continues to run. If it fails I will repost my life span of the repair ASAP.
THANK YOU SOOOOOOO MUCH!!! Good video by the way most people tell you "oh yeah do this too" and leave it out of the video, very well done.
UPDATE!!!
Played 2-3 rounds COD MW2 online, fired up a couple download games, flipped through some movies streaming from the PC, streamed 1 hour of music from PC.
cover is now in place I also taped a couple pennies to the feet to try and get more clearance between the console and the table top. I have the house fan set up next to the console running. no problems as of yet it seems to be holding together just fine.
Once again thank you soooooo much.
This message has been edited since posting. Last time this message was edited on 23. June 2010 @ 17:33
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PS3Guru
Newbie
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10. July 2010 @ 18:49 |
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For those who are saying there is no permanent fix for YLoD, its not correct. I have fixed my PS3 Yellow Light of death problem, and its working well for last 8 months, and I think if its working for 8 months, the fix worked well!
what do you guys say?
sorry for the repost, in the first one I missed e from my email address.
PS3 Guru!
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ntemis
Newbie
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15. July 2010 @ 08:17 |
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Originally posted by GoW3Roxxx:
Hello people ! My PS3 has been experiencing very weird YLOD issues.
It does the usual changing the green light to yellow and then flashing red. But when I repeatedly try to turn the thing on, it works ! and I can play games without any problems.
Turning it on is the only challenge.
Surely this rules out desoldered CPU or GPU ?
When I pull my HDD out and try to turn it on, it takes MUCH longer to YLOD.
hi,
It seems you will need to change your power supply unit.
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ntemis
Newbie
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16. July 2010 @ 11:41 |
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Originally posted by GoW3Roxxx:
Originally posted by ntemis:
Originally posted by GoW3Roxxx:
Hello people ! My PS3 has been experiencing very weird YLOD issues.
It does the usual changing the green light to yellow and then flashing red. But when I repeatedly try to turn the thing on, it works ! and I can play games without any problems.
Turning it on is the only challenge.
Surely this rules out desoldered CPU or GPU ?
When I pull my HDD out and try to turn it on, it takes MUCH longer to YLOD.
hi,
It seems you will need to change your power supply unit.
Are you 100% sure it'll work ?
99% :)
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ntemis
Newbie
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20. July 2010 @ 15:21 |
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Originally posted by GoW3Roxxx:
Originally posted by ntemis:
Originally posted by GoW3Roxxx:
Originally posted by ntemis:
Originally posted by GoW3Roxxx:
Hello people ! My PS3 has been experiencing very weird YLOD issues.
It does the usual changing the green light to yellow and then flashing red. But when I repeatedly try to turn the thing on, it works ! and I can play games without any problems.
Turning it on is the only challenge.
Surely this rules out desoldered CPU or GPU ?
When I pull my HDD out and try to turn it on, it takes MUCH longer to YLOD.
hi,
It seems you will need to change your power supply unit.
Are you 100% sure it'll work ?
99% :)
Any reasoning behind this ? I'd like to learn more.
Looks like I'm one of the lucky ones that don't have to do anything with a heat gun.
"When I pull my HDD out and try to turn it on, it takes MUCH longer to YLOD" this indicates that when you dont have hdd connected your power supply takes much longer to fail -> YLOD because the power that is drawn from it is less so your ylod takes much longer to develop. Try open up your power supply and have a look at capacitors on top, some or any of them are swallen on top or burned resistors -> black burn marks.
Is a proximity we are talking about, hope you get lucky ;)
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manugirl
Member
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20. July 2010 @ 18:01 |
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hey guys ive just had the YLOD on my 60GB and ive just done the heatgun trick and was so so so happy when it fixed only now the fans louder than my hoover asoon as i turn it on. any suggestions on how i can fix this problem. thanks for any information guys. clare xx
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