Originally posted by chris2029:

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Hi All,

Signed up just to share this, sorry if you have already figured it out.

The clamp bolts used on the newer 40gb and 80gb models have a shorter shoulder to the ones used on the old 60gb models,
as you can guess I aquired some of these as they apply more presure, also you need to apply more compound than what the guides tels u.

I have had the ylod problem for quite some time when I started, using gilsky's guide fixed it for a while but never lasted, like the rrod 360's seem to suffer it only makes sence to follow trend were the x clamp fix is concerned, becuase of the crap led free soilder presure and conductivity seems to be the only option.

I used the m3 bolts from a 40gb carcas I boaugt from ebay, this was cheap as it had no blu ray controller card and I just wanted the board screws, at first i thought of using the clamp brakets from the 40gb model then realised they were the oposite way round from the 60gb model,

Anyway long story short, I took the 60gb model apart as I had the ylod again, realised that the thin spread of arctic silver I had applied had only touched three parts of each heat pad on the cooler, ether this is because the thin layer of compound is not enough or the claps are not pulling up on the cooler enough,
I cleaned it all down and re-applied the compound to each bga in a spread fashon as the guide states then added pea sized blob in the middle of each bga,
I looked at both bolts from the 40 and 60 gb models and thought "why not use the 40 gb models" the shoulders are shorter the thread is longer but they remain overall the same size, might as well seen as though the clamps wont fit,
I got out the pliers and bent the 60gb model clamps to give it more pressure again the using the new bolts claped every thingback together.

For me I have been using my 60gb model for 1 months and it still works now so this could be the answer.

One last thing to note : Once I clamped the cooler back on to the board I took the fan off and used my heat gun on high and heated up the bottom of the heat pads, you can see these wen you remove the fan part of the cooler about 30 seconds on each then let it rest you must not knock it or bend it while its hot and you must be carful not to melt the black bit of the cooler.

after it had cooled I re assembled and like I said its been working for 1 month so far.

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Originally posted by panedi:

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hey all, i reflowed one more time the console and it worked again as usual , but the next day i opened it , it couldn't connect to the internet (both ethernet and wifi) and also nothing bluetooth could connect as well (controllers and headset) ..i suspect it has to do with the bluetooth board but i cant understand why it won't connect via ethernet online since its on the motherboard .. so i would like some help from you guys ..

it will help me a lot if someone of you try and open the console without the bluetooth board connected and try to connect to the net via ethernet so i can understand if the problem has to do with the bluetooth board or the motherboard itself !

thanks in advance !

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Originally posted by colinjest:

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Originally posted by chris2029:

---

Hi All,

Signed up just to share this, sorry if you have already figured it out.

The clamp bolts used on the newer 40gb and 80gb models have a shorter shoulder to the ones used on the old 60gb models,
as you can guess I aquired some of these as they apply more presure, also you need to apply more compound than what the guides tels u.

I have had the ylod problem for quite some time when I started, using gilsky's guide fixed it for a while but never lasted, like the rrod 360's seem to suffer it only makes sence to follow trend were the x clamp fix is concerned, becuase of the crap led free soilder presure and conductivity seems to be the only option.

I used the m3 bolts from a 40gb carcas I boaugt from ebay, this was cheap as it had no blu ray controller card and I just wanted the board screws, at first i thought of using the clamp brakets from the 40gb model then realised they were the oposite way round from the 60gb model,

Anyway long story short, I took the 60gb model apart as I had the ylod again, realised that the thin spread of arctic silver I had applied had only touched three parts of each heat pad on the cooler, ether this is because the thin layer of compound is not enough or the claps are not pulling up on the cooler enough,
I cleaned it all down and re-applied the compound to each bga in a spread fashon as the guide states then added pea sized blob in the middle of each bga,
I looked at both bolts from the 40 and 60 gb models and thought "why not use the 40 gb models" the shoulders are shorter the thread is longer but they remain overall the same size, might as well seen as though the clamps wont fit,
I got out the pliers and bent the 60gb model clamps to give it more pressure again the using the new bolts claped every thingback together.

For me I have been using my 60gb model for 1 months and it still works now so this could be the answer.

One last thing to note : Once I clamped the cooler back on to the board I took the fan off and used my heat gun on high and heated up the bottom of the heat pads, you can see these wen you remove the fan part of the cooler about 30 seconds on each then let it rest you must not knock it or bend it while its hot and you must be carful not to melt the black bit of the cooler.

after it had cooled I re assembled and like I said its been working for 1 month so far.

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bending the clamps is a valid point there my friend!

like the 360 version fix were you can add extra clamps to hold it all down tight!

as for the compound.........too much is bad!!!!!!
the idea it to couple both faces together optimizing heat transfer!
to much compound and you will actually decouple the surfaces!

stick with the bending of the clamps after a reflow! but not the adding extra compound!

good luck
hope it lasts

gilksy

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Originally posted by panedi:

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guys please can someone do the test ? i really need to know if it works or now so i can buy the parts, else i am gonna buy a new one...

please i would appreciate it!

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Originally posted by Sticks38:

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I've reflowed my PS3 three times now, and just today it YLoDed yet again. It's only been lasting roughly a week after each reflow (although it lasted a good six weeks after the first fix). I'm going to try and find some liquid flux tomorrow and heat the chips more than I have been doing. Hopefully I can make this fix the last.

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Originally posted by panedi:

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just noticed you cant test it :P thats okay appreciate the help ! anyone else can try please ?

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Originally posted by colinjest:

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Originally posted by chris2029:

---

Hi All,

Signed up just to share this, sorry if you have already figured it out.

The clamp bolts used on the newer 40gb and 80gb models have a shorter shoulder to the ones used on the old 60gb models,
as you can guess I aquired some of these as they apply more presure, also you need to apply more compound than what the guides tels u.

I have had the ylod problem for quite some time when I started, using gilsky's guide fixed it for a while but never lasted, like the rrod 360's seem to suffer it only makes sence to follow trend were the x clamp fix is concerned, becuase of the crap led free soilder presure and conductivity seems to be the only option.

I used the m3 bolts from a 40gb carcas I boaugt from ebay, this was cheap as it had no blu ray controller card and I just wanted the board screws, at first i thought of using the clamp brakets from the 40gb model then realised they were the oposite way round from the 60gb model,

Anyway long story short, I took the 60gb model apart as I had the ylod again, realised that the thin spread of arctic silver I had applied had only touched three parts of each heat pad on the cooler, ether this is because the thin layer of compound is not enough or the claps are not pulling up on the cooler enough,
I cleaned it all down and re-applied the compound to each bga in a spread fashon as the guide states then added pea sized blob in the middle of each bga,
I looked at both bolts from the 40 and 60 gb models and thought "why not use the 40 gb models" the shoulders are shorter the thread is longer but they remain overall the same size, might as well seen as though the clamps wont fit,
I got out the pliers and bent the 60gb model clamps to give it more pressure again the using the new bolts claped every thingback together.

For me I have been using my 60gb model for 1 months and it still works now so this could be the answer.

One last thing to note : Once I clamped the cooler back on to the board I took the fan off and used my heat gun on high and heated up the bottom of the heat pads, you can see these wen you remove the fan part of the cooler about 30 seconds on each then let it rest you must not knock it or bend it while its hot and you must be carful not to melt the black bit of the cooler.

after it had cooled I re assembled and like I said its been working for 1 month so far.

---

bending the clamps is a valid point there my friend!

like the 360 version fix were you can add extra clamps to hold it all down tight!

as for the compound.........too much is bad!!!!!!
the idea it to couple both faces together optimizing heat transfer!
to much compound and you will actually decouple the surfaces!

stick with the bending of the clamps after a reflow! but not the adding extra compound!

good luck
hope it lasts

gilksy

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Originally posted by panedi:

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its the two metal things with the 4 fat screws that tie the cooler with the motherboard!

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