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Ps3 YLoD Attempted fix's. Any more ideas?
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pwitte
Newbie
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14. June 2009 @ 19:21 |
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I read the whole post & watched the video by Gilksy. I decided to try to fix our YLOD on our 60GB 2 year old PS3, even though it may only work for a short while. I have a disc stuck in the machine and no backup of the hard drive.
But just in case, I called Sony and they told me that they'd send me a refurb for $149 but ONLY if the warranty sticker has not been removed. I mentioned that I wanted to try the reflow and was told that if I did, they would not honor the $149 and I would be SOL.
So I guess I will play it safe and not do the reflow and return it to Sony for replacement. As such, anybody have any ideas how I can get my disc out without opening the machine? I tried the 10 second thing and that didn't work. And it seems that there is no manual eject. Any ideas?
Also, is there any way to backup my hard drive in it's current YLOD state? i.e. - if I remove the HD and connect it to my PC, will I be able to backup my data or will the PC not recognize the format of the drive?
Last question - is there any way to temporarily trick the machine into thinking it does not have the YLOD? For example, putting it in the refrigerator so the processor thinks it is super cool (I know, probably a really stupid idea...).....or maybe removing the HD and using that portal to try to shoot the heat gun in the general direction of the MB? I hear you laughing, but thought I'd ask anyway.
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Endru
Newbie
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14. June 2009 @ 20:28 |
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Originally posted by pwitte:
I read the whole post & watched the video by Gilksy. I decided to try to fix our YLOD on our 60GB 2 year old PS3, even though it may only work for a short while. I have a disc stuck in the machine and no backup of the hard drive.
But just in case, I called Sony and they told me that they'd send me a refurb for $149 but ONLY if the warranty sticker has not been removed. I mentioned that I wanted to try the reflow and was told that if I did, they would not honor the $149 and I would be SOL.
So I guess I will play it safe and not do the reflow and return it to Sony for replacement. As such, anybody have any ideas how I can get my disc out without opening the machine? I tried the 10 second thing and that didn't work. And it seems that there is no manual eject. Any ideas?
Also, is there any way to backup my hard drive in it's current YLOD state? i.e. - if I remove the HD and connect it to my PC, will I be able to backup my data or will the PC not recognize the format of the drive?
Last question - is there any way to temporarily trick the machine into thinking it does not have the YLOD? For example, putting it in the refrigerator so the processor thinks it is super cool (I know, probably a really stupid idea...).....or maybe removing the HD and using that portal to try to shoot the heat gun in the general direction of the MB? I hear you laughing, but thought I'd ask anyway.
As I know, there's no way to get your data back from the HDD. When I've got the YLOD the first time back in november, there was no YLOD fix, so I've researched a lot about how could I get my saves back from the hard drive. I've tried hooking it into a PC, but that didn't recoginzed it. Then I tried to hook my HDD into one of my friends Ps3 via usb mobile rack, nothing happened. If you send your PS3 to Sony you will loose all of your data..
I think putting the console into the fridge won't solve the YLOD.. you'll do more harm than good with it.
I've heard that you'll get your disc back. But the main problem is that you're going to loose everything in the hdd.. If I were you I'll try to fix the YLOD by myself. (in case that you really need your hdd content.)
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dchris01
Junior Member
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15. June 2009 @ 08:38 |
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since my last reflow my ps3 is going now for about 6 weeks they only thing that has changed. Putting on my ps3 the fan speeds up to i think which is the full speed and puts out alot of heat and what ever is on the screen it blinks, i also think is caused by the heat and everytime i change the video out put on the tv and go back to the hdmi channel the ps3 wont display only when i turn the ps3 off and on again, it will come on again. I will have to do something soon before it ylod again can a usb ps3 fan help to cure the overheating
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matouz38
Newbie
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15. June 2009 @ 09:44 |
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hi chris and others, i had YLOD with no fan speed before, and i fixed it with the tutorial.
It worked about 2 months (playing mainly fifa 09) with fan speed on very high.Last week i started playing uncharted 2 beta , i played about a minute and there was a message (that i never got before)saying "system is over heating, stop it soon", if i don't stop , it stops itself with a YLOD, but not the same as before (before, thefan speed were low and the ps3 never power on after YLOD)
Now i cannot even go to the xmb more than a minute.the fan increase ver fast...
I would conclud that there are 2 YLOD :
-Bad fixation of the cell(soldering)
-Overheating
Do you have any ideas how to fix it?
I already tried with more thermal paste
Sorry for my poor english,
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pwitte
Newbie
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15. June 2009 @ 13:54 |
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Originally posted by Endru:
As I know, there's no way to get your data back from the HDD.
I think putting the console into the fridge won't solve the YLOD.. you'll do more harm than good with it.
...you're going to loose everything in the hdd.. If I were you I'll try to fix the YLOD by myself. (in case that you really need your hdd content.)
Thanks for the advice Endru,
Glad to hear from someone who's already tried to get the data off the HDD so I don't have to waste time trying the same things. I guess we'll just have to lose the HDD info, but we can still get back all of our purchased items (maps, etc.) by redownloading them. We'll just lose our story mode saved games, guess that's really not such a big deal.
The fridge probably is a dumb idea, just thought I'd throw it out there.
Just wish that Sony would let me try the reflow so I could get my game out and backup the HDD. They said they would send the disc back, but you never know...
And I think it's a shame that these machines all seem to be breaking with this YLOD problem....seems to me that Sony should own up and issue a recall on all units and permanently fix the problem for free. Once word of mouth gets around about this, folks may be inclined not to buy the PS3. I know that one of the main reasons that we did not buy XBox 360 was because of the repeated reports of the red ring problem.
Most likely, someone down the line will start a class action against Sony, it will take several years in court, and about 5 years from now I'll be on a list of folks who paid for the fix and I'll be automatically included in the suit. Then I'll get some stupid $25 gift certificate towards the purchase of a new system or something like that, and the lawyers will walk away with the real cash.
I won't be able to keep my older son away from Sony Playstations, but my younger son is a potential customer...and I'll steer him clear of Xbox and Playstations if these companies continue to produce poorly built products that die as soon as the warranty expires.
Just my thoughts....
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allyssa
Newbie
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15. June 2009 @ 15:31 |
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where can i find a new power\eject ribbon for my ps3
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matouz38
Newbie
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15. June 2009 @ 15:42 |
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Originally posted by allyssa:
where can i find a new power\eject ribbon for my ps3
If you have one that does not work, try to cut the part that is used,that worked for me
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allyssa
Newbie
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15. June 2009 @ 15:47 |
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Originally posted by matouz38:
Originally posted by allyssa:
where can i find a new power\eject ribbon for my ps3
If you have one that does not work, try to cut the part that is used,that worked for me
naw that wont work i need a new 1
where can i find new power\eject cable ribbon for ps3
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allyssa
Newbie
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15. June 2009 @ 16:48 |
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Originally posted by Sticks38:
I have a new problem guys. I reflowed my system last night and did a pretty thorough job this time. I used a higher heat, flux, bent the clamps, used spring washers with the clamps, pretty much everything I could think of that I thought would help. My PS3 didn't turn on. No red light at all.
I checked the little ribbon that connects to the chip with the power/eject buttons and sure enough it was busted. I bought a new one tonight but the PS3 still won't boot up. When I flick the switch at the back of the unit there is an approximate 4 second delay before the red light turns on (I couldn't see this last night because of the busted ribbon). The power and eject buttons have no effect and of course my controller is no longer synced to the console thanks to the reflow. I have played around with the ribbon a fair bit but the result is consistent.
Is this symptom typical of anything I can fix? My worries are that I may have fried something during the reflow. Does 500C for 20 seconds on each of the four sections sound like too much? 15 seconds was fine last time round. Could I have busted the PSU somehow even though it was working fine before the YLoD?
I'm completely stumped on this one.
where did u find the power ribbon i need a new 1
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Endru
Newbie
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15. June 2009 @ 17:52 |
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Originally posted by pwitte:
Originally posted by Endru:
As I know, there's no way to get your data back from the HDD.
I think putting the console into the fridge won't solve the YLOD.. you'll do more harm than good with it.
...you're going to loose everything in the hdd.. If I were you I'll try to fix the YLOD by myself. (in case that you really need your hdd content.)
Thanks for the advice Endru,
Glad to hear from someone who's already tried to get the data off the HDD so I don't have to waste time trying the same things. I guess we'll just have to lose the HDD info, but we can still get back all of our purchased items (maps, etc.) by redownloading them. We'll just lose our story mode saved games, guess that's really not such a big deal.
The fridge probably is a dumb idea, just thought I'd throw it out there.
Just wish that Sony would let me try the reflow so I could get my game out and backup the HDD. They said they would send the disc back, but you never know...
And I think it's a shame that these machines all seem to be breaking with this YLOD problem....seems to me that Sony should own up and issue a recall on all units and permanently fix the problem for free. Once word of mouth gets around about this, folks may be inclined not to buy the PS3. I know that one of the main reasons that we did not buy XBox 360 was because of the repeated reports of the red ring problem.
Most likely, someone down the line will start a class action against Sony, it will take several years in court, and about 5 years from now I'll be on a list of folks who paid for the fix and I'll be automatically included in the suit. Then I'll get some stupid $25 gift certificate towards the purchase of a new system or something like that, and the lawyers will walk away with the real cash.
I won't be able to keep my older son away from Sony Playstations, but my younger son is a potential customer...and I'll steer him clear of Xbox and Playstations if these companies continue to produce poorly built products that die as soon as the warranty expires.
Just my thoughts....
You're welcome Pwitte.
Personally, the large number of Xbox360's RROD'ing that time, when I've decided to go for consoles against pc was the main reason I've bought a PS3. (and of course the exclusive titles.) Maybe i was the only one but I thought ps3's were "undestroyable" lol. My friend had a ps1, that thing was a beast. He kicked into it several times, and it still worked even after 6 years. Yes I understand that these kind of technology is more "sensitive" but damn, Sony should have been tested their product more. I don't know about the newly manufactured Xbox360's but even after my ps3 YLOD'ed still think it has better and more reliable hardware than the 360. The funny thing is that my 7 year old PC still running fine no problems with it at all.. here in Hungary we have only 1 year warranty to the Ps3. That's not enough.
I don't know nothing about electronics, but why didn't Sony put water cooling into the PS3? I bet they could figure that out how to put it into the case.
You know it's kinda annoying when you buy a product and after one and a half year passes, you have to repair it from time to time.. I spent a lot of money for this console and I thought that I'd bought a quality product. (I'll wait and see if my friends ps3 could work for 2 years, because he is frightened of YLOD too.)
Sorry for being offtopic,but I'm a little bit angry.
/ON
1st week after 2nd reflow, ps3 is still quite quiet, even if it ran a lot. Hope it stays that way from now on.
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pwitte
Newbie
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15. June 2009 @ 19:31 |
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Originally posted by Endru:
Yes I understand that these kind of technology is more "sensitive" but damn, Sony should have been tested their product more.
The funny thing is that my 7 year old PC still running fine no problems with it at all.. here in Hungary we have only 1 year warranty to the Ps3. That's not enough.
I spent a lot of money for this console and I thought that I'd bought a quality product.
They definitely could have done a better job - and how long did we have to wait for these things? They kept delaying and delaying the release of the PS3, which I thought meant they were testing it to make sure it was stable. Guess not.
Funny you mention a PC - I've had a Sony PC since 2001 that I leave on all the time (sometimes on Standby) and it works great to this day! Never had a single problem with it. Whay can't they use some of the same cooling technology to make the PS3's? It almost seems like they did this on purpose!
BTW, here in the U.S. the PS3 warranty is also only 1 year. And I paid $599 plus tax, plus an extra controller, altogether about 700 dollars U.S.
You wanna hear something even more funny....my Sony 61" big screen television, bought Jan 12, 1999 died last week also. So now I have to go buy a new television, too. I guess 10 years isn't bad, but the problem it had, after researching on the internet, was a "known issue" with Sony televisions produced in that period. In fact, Sony had extended the warranty of my particular set from 1 year to 4 years because of that issue (faulty manufacturing causing voltage / convergence failures.) Well, 4 years is up and I'm out of luck. Guess it's time for me to switch brands...I'm planning on buying a Samsung television this time and hope for better results.
....but at least my Sony PC still works (knock on wood....)
Sorry folks to go off topic....but YLOD sucks!
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PS3Flea
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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17. June 2009 @ 19:34 |
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Ok here it goes! I, a woodworker, am going to try not to screw up my PS3 further. Hopfully I can fix the YLOD armed with this info.
I'm very grateful for the teaching video and PDF fie. I plan to get my 8 year old to asist me, maybe it will spark something in his brain... other than being an athlete.
I have a non digital heat gun and picked up some Artic Silver today.
I'll let you know how it goes.
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PS3Flea
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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20. June 2009 @ 01:27 |
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Piece of cake!
My PS3 lives in a cabinet with some fans to help the airflow. After following the repair instructions, the fan hasn't gone past the 2nd stage. After starting it up, I transfered over 8 Gigs of pics to my CPU. After that I tested a game disk and a movie. IT WORKS! Granted, I only ran it for about 2 hours... I'm going to monitor my usage so I can report back if something happens.
Anyone thinking about doing this should just go ahead and try it. But DO follow the PDF AND video, take your time, you can do it!
Thank you again...
Flea in Jacksonville, Fl USA
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Endru
Newbie
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20. June 2009 @ 06:22 |
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Originally posted by PS3Flea:
Piece of cake!
My PS3 lives in a cabinet with some fans to help the airflow. After following the repair instructions, the fan hasn't gone past the 2nd stage. After starting it up, I transfered over 8 Gigs of pics to my CPU. After that I tested a game disk and a movie. IT WORKS! Granted, I only ran it for about 2 hours... I'm going to monitor my usage so I can report back if something happens.
Anyone thinking about doing this should just go ahead and try it. But DO follow the PDF AND video, take your time, you can do it!
Thank you again...
Flea in Jacksonville, Fl USA
Great news! Congrats on making it work.
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UKSheila
Newbie
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20. June 2009 @ 14:37 |
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Hiya! I have a 60 gig PS3 and the blu-drive laser was broken. After I replaced it I had the YLOD. I've re-flown it once and it was OK for two weeks or so. I got the YLOD again today and I'm going to re-flow it again with 400 C degrees for 30 seconds/area and using the flux as well this time. The question is where do I put the flux in? I have been reading this thread and if I understand it right I have to put it inside them square pads (...I know, I'm misserable...don't even know their real names! :-))))? What do I do -- do I just squeeze some in there and then heat them from the top of them first? Do I need to put flux to anywhere when I heat them "pads" from the back side/underneath? I've bought a pen of that no clean flux from maplin. Thanks for your help in advance.
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blklotus
Junior Member
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20. June 2009 @ 14:45 |
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Originally posted by UKSheila:
Hiya! I have a 60 gig PS3 and the blu-drive laser was broken. After I replaced it I had the YLOD. I've re-flown it once and it was OK for two weeks or so. I got the YLOD again today and I'm going to re-flow it again with 400 C degrees for 30 seconds/area and using the flux as well this time. The question is where do I put the flux in? I have been reading this thread and if I understand it right I have to put it inside them square pads (...I know, I'm misserable...don't even know their real names! :-))))? What do I do -- do I just squeeze some in there and then heat them from the top of them first? Do I need to put flux to anywhere when I heat them "pads" from the back side/underneath? I've bought a pen of that no clean flux from maplin. Thanks for your help in advance.
If you take a look back a few pages I provided some links to pictures that somewhat show what to do with the liquid flux. The idea is to drip the flux onto one side of the mainboard and let it run underneath the processors. Also the flux ive noticed provides a good indicator of how much heat your applying as it will start to bubble and ooze out from under the chips when you have the area hot enough.
If you need more info/instruction feel free to ask.
Wiiman
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UKSheila
Newbie
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20. June 2009 @ 15:25 |
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Originally posted by blklotus:
Originally posted by UKSheila:
Hiya! I have a 60 gig PS3 and the blu-drive laser was broken. After I replaced it I had the YLOD. I've re-flown it once and it was OK for two weeks or so. I got the YLOD again today and I'm going to re-flow it again with 400 C degrees for 30 seconds/area and using the flux as well this time. The question is where do I put the flux in? I have been reading this thread and if I understand it right I have to put it inside them square pads (...I know, I'm misserable...don't even know their real names! :-))))? What do I do -- do I just squeeze some in there and then heat them from the top of them first? Do I need to put flux to anywhere when I heat them "pads" from the back side/underneath? I've bought a pen of that no clean flux from maplin. Thanks for your help in advance.
If you take a look back a few pages I provided some links to pictures that somewhat show what to do with the liquid flux. The idea is to drip the flux onto one side of the mainboard and let it run underneath the processors. Also the flux ive noticed provides a good indicator of how much heat your applying as it will start to bubble and ooze out from under the chips when you have the area hot enough.
If you need more info/instruction feel free to ask.
Wiiman
Thanks for your reply Wiiman! "Pads" equals processors then! :-)
The flux pens ( http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=33849 )have just 9 grams of stuff in them so I don't think I can pour it on so generously as you seem to have done? Does it matter if it goes all over the motherboard and do I need to remove the excess with Isopropyl Alcohol? According to Gilksy's "YLOD Fix" pdf you have to heat the CPU side first. If I add the flux to that side (under the processors) and heat that side first, isn't there a danger of the flux coming out of the processors when the motherboard is upside down? Or do I worry for nothing....
Cheers.
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blklotus
Junior Member
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20. June 2009 @ 16:20 |
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Originally posted by UKSheila:
Originally posted by blklotus:
Originally posted by UKSheila:
Thanks for your reply Wiiman! "Pads" equals processors then! :-)
The flux pens ( http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=33849 )have just 9 grams of stuff in them so I don't think I can pour it on so generously as you seem to have done? Does it matter if it goes all over the motherboard and do I need to remove the excess with Isopropyl Alcohol? According to Gilksy's "YLOD Fix" pdf you have to heat the CPU side first. If I add the flux to that side (under the processors) and heat that side first, isn't there a danger of the flux coming out of the processors when the motherboard is upside down? Or do I worry for nothing....
Cheers.
The flux i've found works best if you can get it all the way under both processors, so you dont need to coat the whole board, just the processors. As for the excess it poses no problem so there is no need to remove it unless you get some on the tops of the chips (you'll need to have a clean surface for your thermal paste)
After the flux has been heated on the top side first, its done its job so there is no worry about it dripping off when you do the bottom side. As for you only having 9 grams to work with its not a lot but if your careful that should be enough.
Let me know how it works out.
Wiiman
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UKSheila
Newbie
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20. June 2009 @ 16:56 |
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Originally posted by blklotus:
Originally posted by UKSheila:
Originally posted by blklotus:
Originally posted by UKSheila:
Thanks for your reply Wiiman! "Pads" equals processors then! :-)
The flux pens ( http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=33849 )have just 9 grams of stuff in them so I don't think I can pour it on so generously as you seem to have done? Does it matter if it goes all over the motherboard and do I need to remove the excess with Isopropyl Alcohol? According to Gilksy's "YLOD Fix" pdf you have to heat the CPU side first. If I add the flux to that side (under the processors) and heat that side first, isn't there a danger of the flux coming out of the processors when the motherboard is upside down? Or do I worry for nothing....
Cheers.
The flux i've found works best if you can get it all the way under both processors, so you dont need to coat the whole board, just the processors. As for the excess it poses no problem so there is no need to remove it unless you get some on the tops of the chips (you'll need to have a clean surface for your thermal paste)
After the flux has been heated on the top side first, its done its job so there is no worry about it dripping off when you do the bottom side. As for you only having 9 grams to work with its not a lot but if your careful that should be enough.
Let me know how it works out.
Wiiman
Oh dear, I was talking a whole lot of b*ll*cks!! It is the underside he is doing first.... Gosh, it looks like I've already forgotton how I did it and it's only two weeks ago...I better watch the videos and read the pdf again before I start! ;-) Sorry about that.
I'm a bit puzzled now if you are saying that it does matter if I'll get the flux on the motherboard 'cause gilksy seems to differ in the text comments listed below the 2nd part of his video (on http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TePnCFKionE&feature=related ). He is saying: "in my experience if active flux is left on the board it will slowly eat away the pads and therefore cause complete failure!"
Is he talking about some other kind of flux?
Anyway, something else came up and it looks like I won't have time to do this before wednesday next week, but will let you know how it went.
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Member
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20. June 2009 @ 18:12 |
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Originally posted by UKSheila:
Originally posted by blklotus:
Originally posted by UKSheila:
Originally posted by blklotus:
Originally posted by UKSheila:
Thanks for your reply Wiiman! "Pads" equals processors then! :-)
The flux pens ( http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=33849 )have just 9 grams of stuff in them so I don't think I can pour it on so generously as you seem to have done? Does it matter if it goes all over the motherboard and do I need to remove the excess with Isopropyl Alcohol? According to Gilksy's "YLOD Fix" pdf you have to heat the CPU side first. If I add the flux to that side (under the processors) and heat that side first, isn't there a danger of the flux coming out of the processors when the motherboard is upside down? Or do I worry for nothing....
Cheers.
The flux i've found works best if you can get it all the way under both processors, so you dont need to coat the whole board, just the processors. As for the excess it poses no problem so there is no need to remove it unless you get some on the tops of the chips (you'll need to have a clean surface for your thermal paste)
After the flux has been heated on the top side first, its done its job so there is no worry about it dripping off when you do the bottom side. As for you only having 9 grams to work with its not a lot but if your careful that should be enough.
Let me know how it works out.
Wiiman
Oh dear, I was talking a whole lot of b*ll*cks!! It is the underside he is doing first.... Gosh, it looks like I've already forgotton how I did it and it's only two weeks ago...I better watch the videos and read the pdf again before I start! ;-) Sorry about that.
I'm a bit puzzled now if you are saying that it does matter if I'll get the flux on the motherboard 'cause gilksy seems to differ in the text comments listed below the 2nd part of his video (on http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TePnCFKionE&feature=related ). He is saying: "in my experience if active flux is left on the board it will slowly eat away the pads and therefore cause complete failure!"
Is he talking about some other kind of flux?
Anyway, something else came up and it looks like I won't have time to do this before wednesday next week, but will let you know how it went.
when i said about active flux that is a differant kind of flux to no clean flux!
active flux needs to be cleaned due to the aggresive nature that it primes the pads/joints whereas no clean flux does not attack the pads/joints therefore after reflow does not need the residue thats left cleaning off!!!
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UKSheila
Newbie
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20. June 2009 @ 18:25 |
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^^^^^^^
Cool! That's sorted then :-) I'm silly with these things 'cause it is all WAY away from my profession!
Oh by the way --- Is it just them two bigger prosessors I have to add the flux to or is the other little ones as well? Thanks.
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dteh1989
Newbie
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21. June 2009 @ 03:17 |
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hey guys
i had a good read of this thread last night and decided to fix the YLOD myself... everything went well until i had to remove the metal shield for the motherboard... i accidentally SEVERED THE BNC WIRE at the part it's connected to the MARVELL CHIP!!!
or so i think... it says u can unplug the BNC wire in collin's guide... not sure if this is it.. because i cant seem to reattach the free end back to the joint on the Marvell chip.
ARGH. I don't have much experience with electronics... is there anything you guys can suggest i do to fix this?!
cheers dteh
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Member
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22. June 2009 @ 19:06 |
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Originally posted by UKSheila:
^^^^^^^
Cool! That's sorted then :-) I'm silly with these things 'cause it is all WAY away from my profession!
Oh by the way --- Is it just them two bigger prosessors I have to add the flux to or is the other little ones as well? Thanks.
the two heatsinked ones!
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Member
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22. June 2009 @ 19:11 |
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Originally posted by dteh1989:
hey guys
i had a good read of this thread last night and decided to fix the YLOD myself... everything went well until i had to remove the metal shield for the motherboard... i accidentally SEVERED THE BNC WIRE at the part it's connected to the MARVELL CHIP!!!
or so i think... it says u can unplug the BNC wire in collin's guide... not sure if this is it.. because i cant seem to reattach the free end back to the joint on the Marvell chip.
ARGH. I don't have much experience with electronics... is there anything you guys can suggest i do to fix this?!
cheers dteh
what you have to do is remove the bnc plug from the bnc socket that is soldered to the board then strip the wire to reveal a screen and a single core the screen gets soldered to the outside shell of the bnc plug(usually crimped) and the middle single core gets stripped and then soldered to the pin in the middle of the bnc plug once done reconnect it to the bnc socket and bobs your uncle!!!!
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dchris01
Junior Member
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23. June 2009 @ 05:52 |
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after my last reply my ps3 is still overheating and when i play a game or watch a dvd the picture flickers sometimes on and off which i think is to do with the overheating, so hopefully to solve this i purchased a usb ps3 fan 10 pounds it cost from a game store since i used the fan on the ps3 the picture has stopped flicking but ps3 is still a bit warm i will post in a weeks time to see if the fan is good or bad idea
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