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Ps3 YLoD Attempted fix's. Any more ideas?
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dazhick
Newbie
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24. June 2009 @ 16:03 |
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Hi,
In the last few months I?ve repaired quite a lot of PS3?s from the dreaded YLOD error.
I?ve used the same technique each time and I thought everything was going as planned. However, the YLOD as just returned on two of the consoles.
I use arctic silver thermal paste on top of the two aluminium components that cover up the BGA?s and I heat both sides of the motherboard up to 350c for 30 seconds in the four areas around the BGA?s.
I?ve skimmed read the questions and answers on this fantastic forum and would like to have confirmed what is seen to be the best procedure to cure the YLOD?
1) What is the best thermal paste to use?
2) What?s the best temperature setting and time to follow?
3) Could a faulty power pack contribute to the YLOD? And if so, how do you know it is faulty, what are the signs, other than it not working?
4) Is it worth fitting an external fan following the repair of the YLOD to prevent from returning?
Hopefully any answers to the above will help both me and other forum members.
Thanks in advance
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chris2029
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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25. June 2009 @ 05:45 |
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Hi,
I have also encountered this, on the 60gb and early 40gb models
I bought the new intercooler TS "its a bit LOUD" but has stopped it from YLOD after rework.
My rework consists of the following.
BGA flux the piss yellow stuff, This is the best for rework,
you need to let this flow under the two BGA's,
Obviously you need to apply a thin layer of compound on each BGA before you fasten the clamps down, as per guide.
Center presure from the heat brackets needs to be quite strong, so bend the brackets and then use 6.4 mm c washers on top of the brackets before screwing them back down, you need to screw them as far as they will go.
I reflow at around but nomore than 500c bottom first and then top for 20 seconds and cool as per guide.
The overall problem is that the ps3 gets hot and the sensor tollerance is too low the internal fan just cant move the hot air away quick enough,
I belive that if the ps3 internal fan ran at stage three after 2 minutes from boot and than stages 4-5 in game we would not YLOD,
BUT THATS JUST MY GUT FEELING AND WHY I USE A INTERCOOLER.
peace out
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dazhick
Newbie
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25. June 2009 @ 12:10 |
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Hi,
1) I always use Arctic silver thermal paste on top of the two BGA'S, is this the best paste for the PS3?
2) Quote "Center presure from the heat brackets needs to be quite strong, so bend the brackets and then use 6.4 mm c washers on top of the brackets before screwing them back down, you need to screw them as far as they will go".
What exactly is a C washer? Do you mean a spring washer?
3) The intercooler fan you use is it the same as this one on sale at Ebay: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ECELL-INTERCOOLER-...%3A1%7C294%3A50
Thank you for the great feedback and help.
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dale521
Newbie
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25. June 2009 @ 20:00 |
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my ps3 40 gig uk version i want to try the trick with the heat gun but im wondering if any one can point me in the right direction for the right heat gun and what is the percent out off 100 that i will get it working as 0 been none and 100 been alot be great full for any replys
d.whitford
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chris2029
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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26. June 2009 @ 04:24 |
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Originally posted by dazhick:
Hi,
1) I always use Arctic silver thermal paste on top of the two BGA'S, is this the best paste for the PS3?
2) Quote "Center presure from the heat brackets needs to be quite strong, so bend the brackets and then use 6.4 mm c washers on top of the brackets before screwing them back down, you need to screw them as far as they will go".
What exactly is a C washer? Do you mean a spring washer?
3) The intercooler fan you use is it the same as this one on sale at Ebay: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ECELL-INTERCOOLER-...%3A1%7C294%3A50
Thank you for the great feedback and help.
Hi
Yes I do mean Spring washer http://www.hgsindustrial.com/upload/Spri...980_IFI_L_9.jpg
I do have one of them coolers but thats not the one try this,
http://www.amazon.com/PS3-Intercooler-TS...3/dp/B001CP0Q8S
As for the thermal compound, if you strugle to spread a leaf thin layer over the BGA's then its no good in my book, I just use normal white compound.
Thanks
peace out
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fubarfred
Newbie
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26. June 2009 @ 16:38 |
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Originally posted by dchris01:
at the ps3 for two hours switched it on no good going to try more heat on the chips
Ok, i fixed my YLOD once already but it lasted for over 3 months. The mistake was mine, i used a very cheap silver thermal compound plus i think i added too much. If mine worked for 3 months then i guess i done everything right except for the cheap paste...take er apart, compleatly remove the old paste with rubbing alcohol and a lint free cloth, let your heat gun heat to around 500F seeing as the solder in these things melts around 260C/500F, using a circular mothion about 2in from the gpu/cpu heat them one at a time for about 1min(careful not to stay in one area longer than a few seconds(CIRCLES!)) do eacch proccesor this way for around a min or until u feel it got hot enough to melt solder...VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!!DO NOT MOVE BOARD FOR ATLEAST 15 MIN OR THE SOLDER WILL SHIFT AND CREATE GAPS. Now that that side is cooled flip it over and get the other side. wait another 15 min and start puttin her back together. this time i am going to go with Artic Silver 5 witch has 99% pure silver compared to most others 25% pure....the more pure the better conductive properties. only use a tiny bit, a lil goes a long way. you wanna be able to almost see thru it or have it the thickness of a sheet of paper.
Now what im gonna use to gage mine is tape,put a piece of tape barly on the edge on top and bottom then put a small dab on one side and smere it from left to right kind using the tape as rails for your credit card...if your card slides on the taped edges then it will make it even on the proccesor and the same thickness as the tape. now when u put the fan and cooling plate system back in DO NOT PUST ON THE COOLING PLATES to bond the paste....when you put the screws back in they will do it for you evenly with no bubbles.....
If this helps let me know and if you have questions my email is dayday3000@comcast.net.
Or you can add me on PSN my name is fubarfred and my system will b back up and running in 45min....
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fubarfred
Newbie
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26. June 2009 @ 16:54 |
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Originally posted by pwitte:
I read the whole post & watched the video by Gilksy. I decided to try to fix our YLOD on our 60GB 2 year old PS3, even though it may only work for a short while. I have a disc stuck in the machine and no backup of the hard drive.
But just in case, I called Sony and they told me that they'd send me a refurb for $149 but ONLY if the warranty sticker has not been removed. I mentioned that I wanted to try the reflow and was told that if I did, they would not honor the $149 and I would be SOL.
So I guess I will play it safe and not do the reflow and return it to Sony for replacement. As such, anybody have any ideas how I can get my disc out without opening the machine? I tried the 10 second thing and that didn't work. And it seems that there is no manual eject. Any ideas?
Also, is there any way to backup my hard drive in it's current YLOD state? i.e. - if I remove the HD and connect it to my PC, will I be able to backup my data or will the PC not recognize the format of the drive?
Last question - is there any way to temporarily trick the machine into thinking it does not have the YLOD? For example, putting it in the refrigerator so the processor thinks it is super cool (I know, probably a really stupid idea...).....or maybe removing the HD and using that portal to try to shoot the heat gun in the general direction of the MB? I hear you laughing, but thought I'd ask anyway.
There is a way to get your disks out even with the YLOD....first turn it off in back, then hold finger on the eject button, and turn switch in back on while holding eject and your ps3 will kick on with fan on high for 15-20sec then it will spitout the disk and turn back off......
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mmayhemm
Junior Member
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26. June 2009 @ 17:50 |
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quote]There is a way to get your disks out even with the YLOD....first turn it off in back, then hold finger on the eject button, and turn switch in back on while holding eject and your ps3 will kick on with fan on high for 15-20sec then it will spitout the disk and turn back off......
This will only work on a 40gig not on a 60gig
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dale521
Newbie
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26. June 2009 @ 21:47 |
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so has any one got any good tips on how to mend my ps3 40gb uk model i have got the pdf file but any tips will be great cheers dale
d.whitford
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dale521
Newbie
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26. June 2009 @ 21:51 |
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so has any one got any good tips on how to mend my ps3 40gb uk model it has got the ylod im very handy at mending things i have also got the pdf file but any tips will be great cheers dale
d.whitford
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Endru
Newbie
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27. June 2009 @ 10:05 |
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Originally posted by dale521:
so has any one got any good tips on how to mend my ps3 40gb uk model it has got the ylod im very handy at mending things i have also got the pdf file but any tips will be great cheers dale
Hi!
I think if you have Gilksy's guide, and you follow his video, you can do it quite easily. Before the YLOD I've never repaired anything like this.. now I've done it 2 times.. I have to say it's not that hard than may first seem.
But if your read the posts everything is here.
Good luck on fixing it.
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dale521
Newbie
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27. June 2009 @ 10:48 |
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ok thanks for replying i have the pdf and videos so ill follow them when my heat gun arrives as iv had to order one i wil leave comment when i have attempted it and let you no the result thanks all
d.whitford
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dazhick
Newbie
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27. June 2009 @ 13:48 |
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Where and when do I apply the liquid flux.
Do I apply it to the same side and underneath the 2 big processers? and do I heat this side first or second? The guide states I have to heat this side second!
Little bit confused!
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heff64
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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27. June 2009 @ 21:36 |
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Hello,
I have done the heat gun fix to my ps3 and now I can turn on my system and log into my name and all. As long as I don't put a game in my system it will run for hours. As soon as I put a game in the console it will shut off and give me the ylod and I have to keep trying to get it to turn on. Eventually I will be able to get it on long enough to get my game out and it will work fine.
Anybody have any ideas what is going on with that?
I was thinking something about the fan or hard drive since when you load a game the fan kicks on high and more data is being transferred through the system due to the graphics and all.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
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Endru
Newbie
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27. June 2009 @ 23:39 |
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Originally posted by heff64:
Hello,
I have done the heat gun fix to my ps3 and now I can turn on my system and log into my name and all. As long as I don't put a game in my system it will run for hours. As soon as I put a game in the console it will shut off and give me the ylod and I have to keep trying to get it to turn on. Eventually I will be able to get it on long enough to get my game out and it will work fine.
Anybody have any ideas what is going on with that?
I was thinking something about the fan or hard drive since when you load a game the fan kicks on high and more data is being transferred through the system due to the graphics and all.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
That was kinda the problem on my first reflow. When I turned it on, after about 3 or 4 minutes the fan kicked into high. And when I was playing a game it was even louder! It was odd because my ps3 was never loud. (Although mine worked 2 weeks even with playing games.)
When the YLOD came the second time, I've opened my ps3 and found out that the thermal paste on half of the heatsink plates was "intact". So the connection between the heatsink plates and the 2 BGA's was not good. What I've done is that I've fastened, and added washers to the screws that hold the heatsink compound and the 2 BGA's together (you know the four screws with the metal plates) So I reckon this has to be the problem in your case. Because now my ps3 is quite quiet even after 8 hours of playing, and never sounded like a vacuum cleaner...
Hope it helps.
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heff64
Suspended due to non-functional email address
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28. June 2009 @ 01:03 |
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Originally posted by Endru:
Originally posted by heff64:
Hello,
I have done the heat gun fix to my ps3 and now I can turn on my system and log into my name and all. As long as I don't put a game in my system it will run for hours. As soon as I put a game in the console it will shut off and give me the ylod and I have to keep trying to get it to turn on. Eventually I will be able to get it on long enough to get my game out and it will work fine.
Anybody have any ideas what is going on with that?
I was thinking something about the fan or hard drive since when you load a game the fan kicks on high and more data is being transferred through the system due to the graphics and all.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
That was kinda the problem on my first reflow. When I turned it on, after about 3 or 4 minutes the fan kicked into high. And when I was playing a game it was even louder! It was odd because my ps3 was never loud. (Although mine worked 2 weeks even with playing games.)
When the YLOD came the second time, I've opened my ps3 and found out that the thermal paste on half of the heatsink plates was "intact". So the connection between the heatsink plates and the 2 BGA's was not good. What I've done is that I've fastened, and added washers to the screws that hold the heatsink compound and the 2 BGA's together (you know the four screws with the metal plates) So I reckon this has to be the problem in your case. Because now my ps3 is quite quiet even after 8 hours of playing, and never sounded like a vacuum cleaner...
Hope it helps.
Thanks alot for the idea on the washers. I will try that in the morning. I really appreciate it.
Anybody else have any other ideas for me? Just in case that does not fix the problem.
Again any help is appreciated.
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dazhick
Newbie
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28. June 2009 @ 08:30 |
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Couple of questions regarding the YLOD repair:
1) Where and when do I apply the liquid flux.
Do I apply it to the same side and underneath the 2 big processers? and do I heat this side first or second? The guide states I have to heat this side second!
Little bit confused!
2) Could a faulty power pack contribute to the YLOD? And if so, how do you know it is faulty, what are the signs, other than it not working?
Thanks for your co-operation and support.
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dale521
Newbie
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28. June 2009 @ 08:34 |
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hiya mate have you seen the vids on youtube on how to do it and also have you got the pdf file
d.whitford
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dale521
Newbie
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28. June 2009 @ 08:42 |
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Originally posted by dazhick:
Couple of questions regarding the YLOD repair:
1) Where and when do I apply the liquid flux.
Do I apply it to the same side and underneath the 2 big processers? and do I heat this side first or second? The guide states I have to heat this side second!
Little bit confused!
2) Could a faulty power pack contribute to the YLOD? And if so, how do you know it is faulty, what are the signs, other than it not working?
Thanks for your co-operation and support.
hiya mate oviasly youhave got it stripped down so if you watch this video it tells you exactly how to put the paste on and how to reflow the board http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAmpDwqCgnI&feature=related
d.whitford
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dazhick
Newbie
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28. June 2009 @ 10:27 |
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Hi,
The video is fantastic. However, it does not answer my original questions:
1) Where and when do I apply the liquid flux.
Do I apply it to the same side and underneath the 2 big processers? and do I heat this side first or second? The guide states I have to heat this side second!
Little bit confused!
2) Could a faulty power pack contribute to the YLOD? And if so, how do you know it is faulty, what are the signs, other than it not working?
Best regards
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dale521
Newbie
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28. June 2009 @ 11:40 |
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Originally posted by dazhick:
Hi,
The video is fantastic. However, it does not answer my original questions:
1) Where and when do I apply the liquid flux.
Do I apply it to the same side and underneath the 2 big processers? and do I heat this side first or second? The guide states I have to heat this side second!
Little bit confused!
2) Could a faulty power pack contribute to the YLOD? And if so, how do you know it is faulty, what are the signs, other than it not working?
Best regards
hiya mate i dont understand y it dosent answer the question when he shows you what side to do first and when to apply the paste and how much to put on so i dont understand
d.whitford
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Endru
Newbie
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28. June 2009 @ 12:31 |
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Originally posted by dale521:
Originally posted by dazhick:
Hi,
The video is fantastic. However, it does not answer my original questions:
1) Where and when do I apply the liquid flux.
Do I apply it to the same side and underneath the 2 big processers? and do I heat this side first or second? The guide states I have to heat this side second!
Little bit confused!
2) Could a faulty power pack contribute to the YLOD? And if so, how do you know it is faulty, what are the signs, other than it not working?
Best regards
hiya mate i dont understand y it dosent answer the question when he shows you what side to do first and when to apply the paste and how much to put on so i dont understand
He's talking about the liquid flux not the thermal paste. (Sadly I don't know how or where to apply it, I have not done that myself.)
I've heard that faulty power supplies can cause YLOD. I'm not sure but I think if there are burn marks on the power supply, and if smells bad (lol) those are bad signs.
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blklotus
Junior Member
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28. June 2009 @ 14:34 |
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Originally posted by dazhick:
Hi,
The video is fantastic. However, it does not answer my original questions:
1) Where and when do I apply the liquid flux.
Do I apply it to the same side and underneath the 2 big processers? and do I heat this side first or second? The guide states I have to heat this side second!
Little bit confused!
2) Could a faulty power pack contribute to the YLOD? And if so, how do you know it is faulty, what are the signs, other than it not working?
Best regards
1. here is a link to some pics I took regarding how/where to put the liquid flux
www.wiiman.ca/resources
2. The PS from what ive found does not directly cause the YLOD, if anyone has info contrary to this your post is appreciated.
P.S Im planning on making a video of my own showing glitsky's fix, with the addition of bending the clamps and adding the flux. Just waiting on a machine to come in with the YLOD issue.
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Member
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28. June 2009 @ 14:51 |
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Originally posted by blklotus:
Originally posted by dazhick:
Hi,
The video is fantastic. However, it does not answer my original questions:
1) Where and when do I apply the liquid flux.
Do I apply it to the same side and underneath the 2 big processers? and do I heat this side first or second? The guide states I have to heat this side second!
Little bit confused!
2) Could a faulty power pack contribute to the YLOD? And if so, how do you know it is faulty, what are the signs, other than it not working?
Best regards
1. here is a link to some pics I took regarding how/where to put the liquid flux
www.wiiman.ca/resources
2. The PS from what ive found does not directly cause the YLOD, if anyone has info contrary to this your post is appreciated.
P.S Im planning on making a video of my own showing glitsky's fix, with the addition of bending the clamps and adding the flux. Just waiting on a machine to come in with the YLOD issue.
hello
my name is GILKSY not glitsky
and yes there are instances where the power supply is the cause of the ylod!
faulty power supplys run hotter than normal and this increases the workload of the fan and speeds up the ylod process!
i to am waiting for a donated console before i film a fluxing video also clamp bending and washer fitting!
but at the mo i keep loosing out to those auto bidders and noone seems to want to hand there consoles over for r and d perposes!
also i'd like to film a reball of the bga's but untill i get that console you'll all have to wait sorry!!!!
colinjest aka gilksy
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blklotus
Junior Member
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28. June 2009 @ 20:38 |
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Sorry GILKSY, my bad!
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